The reason is in part due to rain, in part due to aerodynamics, and in part due to safety.

Constant rain on engine bay components can indeed become a problem, but we are talking years, not days. So it depends on where the venting is located. If it is located properly, then there shouldn't really be a problem with getting rain in the vents. The vents in my MSM's hood dump any rain between the radiator fans and the front of the engine, down onto the splash pan.

 

Dont take that wrong. I meant it as slightly educational and true question. I degrease(foamy engine brigne or purple power, sometimes rig wash if I can get it.) and wash my engine on a regular basis. I often do it while running just to see if it gives me any troubles.

Water splashed up there pretty often, The actual engine does not have a splash shield below it. rain pounding down could cause damage over time, just a bit running through the compartment should not hurt unless you're driving through a hurricane.

 

I don't drive my Rx8 much during the winter...if at all. I'd like to know what the best way to keep it ready to start would be. Should we keep it on a trickle charger? If so, what would be the best one to use? I Try to start it once a week, but I admit, I'm lazy...and it gets really cold here Any suggestions?

 

Thank you for the info. Makes sense.

 

Well, the one time I did that caused me that damn Air Solenoid P2259 CEL. But, then again, I have a 2004 RX-8. I would recommend to not use the high pressure spray-setting for someone a bit hesitant of washing their engine.

 

What I do:
Change the oil if it's close to being due at all, wash it, fill it up with non-ethanol gas and if I'm feeling flush, some Stabil. Double-check my coolant ratio, hook up one of these Battery Tender Plus 021-0128 12V Battery Charger - Walmart.com , put it up on jack-stands, throw the cover on and walk away. Occasionally throughout the winter, on a clear day, I'll leave the door up and start it. If I do, I let it run until it's at full operating temp before shutting down.
Many opinions on what's needed, but this has worked fine for about 12 yrs., and years ago it worked for my FB from new. I use the Deltran "Tender" on the RX and an antique car that's also in storage a lot, but there are others. Regardless, they've about doubled my battery life.

 

The audio buttons work. It's just the cruise control buttons that don't work. My car previously had audio buttons. The cruise control buttons I got came with audio buttons too. Both sides came together. So I used the ones that came with the cruise buttons (because they're wired together). And the audio buttons work fine. It's just the cruise buttons that don't work

Have you done this before? I'll try resetting the radio

 

there are multiple ways to store a vehicle correctly for the winter and most things are a matter of preference, however i dont agree with a few things that signal 2 has mentioned. unless you are premixing with a 2 stroke oil that contains stabilizing agents, adding STABIL fuel stabilizer to your non-ethonal gas is a must not just an option. also do not put the car up on jack stands, the suspension components were not designed to support hanging weight for extended periods of time (especially with a heavy tire on) you'd be better off driving onto some wide planks of wood or multiple sheets of cardboard to get the tires off the concrete. also it wouldn't hurt to inflate the tires to around 40-45psi, pull the battery and store it in a warm environment, a trickle charger would be ideal but not necessary just put it on a charger (low charge) at least once over the winter. stuff some old rags in your tailpipes and intake to prevent rodents from getting in there just don't forget to remove them in spring time.

 

Don't forget to set the vents to 'recirculate', the 'fresh air' mode leaves the door open to the engine compartment, inviting mice to nest in your dash.

 

Freaking mice just ruined my cabin air filter! I had to buy a new one.

I always leave it in recirculation mode. How do they get in there?

 

No idea. Unless at one time some debris got lodged in there just enough to keep it from sealing.
They can squeeze through tiny cracks.
I had some get in my rollaway toolbox at work. Squeezed through the gaps between the drawers, probably 1/8".

 

Each of the modules has a local CANBUS termination interface to talk to the "network" of modules installed in the car. I misunderstood and thought you said the audio buttons are not working.

As far as the cruise control, I think that would be PCM/TCM and would require programming on the CANBUS if the feature was not previously installed. They do this so you can't just add modules & buttons, hit cruise, the car floors itself because it is un-calibrated, then have you sue them for millions of dollars. My guess is if you can't find it in the factory manual I would visit a dealer for that. I would also adverse you stop trying to mess with it because it isn't as simple as adding buttons. It could seriously injure you if it isn't configure properly.

 

Problem solved - needed an ECU reboot following new coils, plugs and leads being fitted (just precautionary following purchase).
Plus cleaned the MAF which seemed to help a little too.

Finally realised it wasn't doing it before I had the ignition stuff changed, but the garage didn't do the ECU reset (battery off, on, 20x brake pedal, let it run etc).

Now gets away just fine now it's relearned the fuel trims......just the engine mounts to change and she'll be perfect - well as perfect as a 9 yr old RX8 gets!

 

Glad to hear problem solved juey.

 

Which headers would go with a Turbo XS Exhaust? When I got the car, I know it has the Turbo XS exhaust with blue tips, and "race" headers? I cant get under the car to findout which ones i have, but I know they are aftermarket. Or does the Exhaust come with the headers?

 

I bought an aftermarket lightweight flywheel, do I need to buy a rear counterweight for it? Also because my flywheel is lightweight do I have to buy a specific weight of counterweight or will any one do? Keep in mind I'm replacing it this weekend and don't have time to wait a month for a part to come in from a site so I'll be buying it from a local enthusiast shop probably.
-D

 

I am currently trying to shop for a new cat for my 2004 mazda rx8 A/T. Should any cat be compatible with an automatic transmission? Or are there cats that are exclusive to one type of transmission?

 

The MT and AT exhausts are identical.

 

Anybody got aN answer to mine I've posted it a couple of times ...

 

I don't know, but there should be some threads in the DIY, Troupleshooting, or Mod threads.

 

You can use the standard automatic rx-8 counterweight ... even from a scrap yard if u want. The manual transmission versions have their counterweight integrated in the flywheel.

Greetings
Thomas

 

It may be too late, but just to confirm and clarify above, some light-weight flywheel "kits" I've seen include the auto counter-weight, but most don't. A chain parts store won't carry the counter-weight, so you WILL need a MAZDA auto counter-weight. You can not install the flywheel without one.
Not certain, but since FD and FC counterweights aren't interchangeable, you'll probably need one from an auto RX8 and not from an earlier rotary.
Know that you'll also need a 54mm (or 2 2/8") socket, preferably hex, and either strong air tools or a flywheel stopper and BIG breaker to remove the flywheel nut, especially if it's never been removed previously.

 

Forum is being weird, won't let me edit, but that should read "54mm or 2 1/8" socket"

 

yupp! I have an impact gun with 400ft/lbs of torque and a 54mm impact bit. Also I have a pilot bearing puller just in case cause I heard it's a betch.

I ended up just contacting the manufacturer of the flywheel and they recommended a matching counterweight to the flywheel I hadn't seen on their page. As such I ordered that and will be doing the install and all that jazz next Saturday.

 

I've read about people having trouble with aftermarket clutches with a light pedal feel at high RPMs. I changed mine not too long ago with an Exedy OEM replacement along with a Racing Beat flywheel and the pedal has firmed up a bit since installation which is good. What I noticed though is that I'm having that symptom of a light pedal feel at high RPMs when shifting. Can air in the clutch line cause this symptom? I have yet to bleed it since installation since I thought it really wasn't necessary.