Oil type is debatable, but 10w40 is a commonplace grade that should be OK.
It's more important to change it every 3000 miles before it breaks down.

 

I thought that North America was the only place with a 5w-20 "recommendation".

 

Fresh oil is far more important than what weight it is. Don't go below 5w20, but if you are at 5w20, make sure to change it frequently. If you can get a heavier weight, go ahead and use that.

 

So question.. On the S1, what should my pressure gauge be reading at, should it be dead center in the middle? I noticed that the pressure gauge is reading higher than normal and i'm debating whether I should check it out or assume that the previous owner did a high pressure mod. It doesn't fluctuate though, stays constant.

 

It's a dummy gauge.

Full left means that the engine is off
Somewhere in the middle means that the engine is on (exact location varies from car to car)
Full right can only be hit by some diagnostics procedures

There isn't even an oil pressure sensor anywhere in the car.

 

Yo ... Ok so I only feel comfortable saying this on here cuz I don't wanna b murdured else wherelol ... But .. I've bn reading up a upgradeing 2 a NA 3 rotor renisis ... But the cost is rediculously high ... And it seems like majority of the cost comes from all the custom work that has 2 b done 2 everything ..... Ssooo I was just thinking ... Y not just petition the hell out of Mazda to build something of the sort ?? Or for them to make a computer and junkfor us to b able to just drop the cosmos engine dodad thinger in it : / ..... Just a thought ... I love our car and stuff and for a everyday rider it's pleanty fast enough but ied love an extra 75 horses 2 play with 2 though lol

 

Something new to learn everyday.
Is there some sort of idiot light or other way to tell the oil is low than regularly pulling the stick (for those who forget)?

 

Mazda probably doesn't want to divert from its business of building and selling cars. Don't think Mazda even wanted to get into the reman business except for the failures of the series 1 engines. Even MazdaSpeed is limited to producing entire cars. Also suspect it is not worth it for Mazda, believes the aftermarket will fill any demand more cost-effectively, it doesn't want to get into warranty issues, etc.. BTW, if you're interested in the basic + and - of various engine replacements, check out the Godfather's thread - https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...x-8-a-233937/:)

 

Yes - there's an idiot light for oil level. It will come on when you're a bit more than a couple of quarts low. It's not a great idea to just go by that.

How can one forget to periodically open the hood and gaze at the beauty of the Renesis?

Ken

 

I have a few questions that got generated when I read the Newbie's mod guide again.


Is there a microfilter to scrub the debris from the oil system for the 4 cycle oil? Right now my solution is to drop a quart and add a quart of fresh before the oil change interval (in the middle of the cycle)

Do dealers throw a fit about the Mazdaspeed intake(with the Mazdaspeed logo not the AEM logo)? I had a Speed3 that came with a Mazdaspeed intake and they did not, but I was not sure about the 8.

Is there a thread describing what Emissions functions can be deleted on the Series 2? Or maybe a thread describing their functions?

 

There is a sensor for oil pressure...but it is basically a switch. The ECU uses it to check there is pressure. .. just doesn't care as long as it's above the threshold

 

Yeah, terminology

To me:
Pressure Sensor = determines what pressure
Pressure Switch = "yes/no" if there is pressure.

A light switch vs a dimmer switch.

 

Lol.......

 

No microfilter. The pan on the s2 has a magnet built into the base that will trap some fine particles.

I dont frequent the dealer much, but the last time I went in I had a ton of mods done ... they didn't mind. I was specifically told "our NE regional mazda rep loves modified RX8s". As long as you arent going in for a problem that could have been caused by a modification, and as long as the modification is legal in your state, you should be fine.

What do you mean by 'can' be deleted? Do you mean physically? legally? As far as legally, none of them. Physically? You can remove the cat and the air injection pump that fires when the engine is cold to help light off the cat. The issue is that without a tune you will show a check engine light

 

If you aren't going to care enough to make yourself understood, then the rest of us assume that you don't care to actually get an answer, so I don't think many people will care enough to answer.

Just a bit of advice on forum communication. Take it for what you will.

You mean all the engine acessories on top of the engine! Have to pull the left front wheel to see the engine itself

They won't give you problems unless they are ignorant about it, which happens.

I don't think so. Want to make one?

 

okay this is really dumb but I was trying to buy new rotors and was confronted with the question of suspension. How can I tell if I have the standard or the sport suspension?

Posted From RX8Club.com Android App

 

Yankee if you have a 6spd manual it's a sport suspension.


04-08 RX8
If your an AT then check the sway bars. Yellow dot means sport, red dot non sport.

 

well that was easy, thanks. I have the 6spd

Posted From RX8Club.com Android App

 

Ok. Super dumb question here.

Can I drive my car with the headlights removed? Would it upset the automatic leveling device or anything else? I need to take my car to a shop to get new headlights fixed. So yeah. Gotta drive without headlights :P

 

Ok, so interesting issue.
About 2-5 times per ~15 minute drive, there is a difficult to describe sound (like a hissing and a rattling, but very low profile. Not "rattling" rattling, almost like a rhythmic hissing) at specific times:
After being under 3k RPM for ~1 minute, EXACTLY when I hit 3k RPM in 3rd gear (30MPH), the sound starts, lasts for 3-5 seconds NO MATTER WHAT (slowing down, speeding up, changing gear really quickly, shifting into Neutral, and with any of these, the "rhythm" of the sound stays the same), and then goes away. There is no noticeable performance or voltage (I have an OBDII).
3 or 4 times it happened at 4k RPM in 4th (50-something MPH).

Any ideas?

 

The auto leveler will notice that the motor is disconnected from the headlight. It may make some noises at first as a diagnosis, but you sould be fine.

Hrmm.... any way you can get a video?

 

Absolutely, Just wanted to prevent a noobie mistake of not checking first.

Something that serves no purpose but to make some kind of "kill, I mean, save the planet." emissions junk. The air pump is an example of this. In my mine the whole concept of a CAT is just ******* stupid. There is a real reason why running Fat is fat. Leaner burning means less emissions, but it also means more heat, less engine life, and more OEM warranty claims.

Legally isn't really something that matters to me, I am not going to went "HE TOLD ME TO!!!!", but if you want to throw a "if you get caught disclaimer" in there I understand. I mostly want to improve the output of the engine without compromising for things like lower climate modifications. I live in Texas and my 8 really hates it. So things like the Air Pump and Coolant bypass mod are fit. I just didn't know if there was any thing else. I plan on tuning if that helps out too.

So if they were worried about saving the planet, they would just run cars leaner and stop making the damn Prius, which does more environmental damage with it's batteries than a V8 running fat 24x7 for 10 years.

On the Renesis it seems like a rubber tentacle monster threw up in there. I understand some hoses are for PCV and specialized oil systems, but anything emissions related that doesn't effect the engine's life can be deleted.

It isn't like we expect our rotaries to last forever, if we did this would be a Honda forum. Clean is mean in my book. (For the engine bay)

 

In that case, air pump, air pump diverter valve, the vac line that goes from the air pump solenoid (behind the UIM. The entire air pump assembly that goes from the diverter to the header (you need to block off the inlet hole now on the header), air pump relays (found in the box under the ECU). Catalyst (but keep the 2ndary o2 sensor installed).

 

It's a sensor either way...just a matter of its resolution.

Ken

 

Is the RX8 S2's E-Brake hydraulic like the Gen 2 Mazdaspeed 3's?