Hi Gurus!!!
2010 RX8 with 35 k. 6 speed runs great and I love this sled! I know my car was built in spring of 09 so I guess I can see the battery going bad ( I live in California) so no weather issues. They did a "de-carb" under warrantee at around 25k.
I have seen that changing the flattery in this car ain't like it was in my old VW bug and so I thing it best if the dealer drops in the new sparkler. Do you all think I need the throttle body cleaned for $200 ish? They are saying the battery will be bout $200 installed. Like I say I am used to Kmart batteries and welding on my shocks ( it said lifetime gauranteed right on the shock right)!

Thank you all for all the information!
Yogi

 

That is a very confusing post.

Yes, replacing the battery just shy of 5 years after manufacture isn't all that abnormal.

No, replacing the battery (or "flattery" or "sparkler"?) isn't hard and isn't something the dealer HAS to do. The only part that can trip you up is if you install it backwards because you weren't paying attention to the positive and negative symbols. We had a rash of that in 2013. It fries stuff.

I DO NOT recommend "cleaning the throttle body". It's a tack-on service that dealers like to propose, but I have only seen a handful of failed throttle bodies reported on the forum in 6 years here. If there is a specific problem that they are trying to resolve by suggesting that, then it is probably your e-shaft sensor, coils, wires, or plugs instead. If there is no problem and they are just trying to recommend it, then pass anyway. Chances are, they wouldn't even remove the throttle body from the car.


I don't know how welding shocks plays into either of those, so I'm guessing it was just a passing reference to something you did in the past.

 

Thank you for your advise...

I was typing on my phone so my apologies for the typing and yes I was comparing my RX8 with my perception of its level of technology to my past beaters. The reason I asked this question was that in the past I saw something about changing the battery causing the car "computer" to reset to original factory settings and leading to non-starting or rough running. Do you know if this is in fact true or can I just buy a quality battery and install in myself. I will be able to keep track of positive and negative but I know nothing about the car computer resetting.

Thank you again for your help!
Yogi

 

Eh, here it goes...

I have 19x8.5 and 19x9.5 rims on my car and Im running 225/40/19 & 255/35/19 tires. I was wondering if my camber should be adjusted any? I've had this setup for about 6 years but I was just wondering since Im about to order another set of tires.

Thanks lol

 

You should get an alignment more often than every 6 years.

 

Depending on the miles traveled.

 

Pretty safe for me to say that. You didn't mention how bad the terrain is that the questioner drives through or accidents or alterations to suspension, etc.

And he is getting another set of tires. I doubt he has r-comps. He drove enough to warrant an alignment.

 

Reseting the ECU isn't a problem. You will need to re-enter the radio presets, recalibrate the DSC (turn the steering wheel full left then full right, and that's it), recalibrate the TCS (roll the car at least 20 feet, and the next time you turn on the car it will be done), and relearn fuel trims (about 3 drive cycles, a rough idle might be present until the fuel trims are stable).

I disconnected the battery on my 8 every few months for one project or another, it's really not a problem. Disconnecting the battery is only a problem if you have some sort of aftermarket alarm that is set up to lock down the car if it loses power.

 

That's really high, even for a dealer. I got a battery at a dealer a couple of years ago, and it was just under $140. That's more than the $90 or so that I'm used to paying at Advance Auto Parts for comparable quality, but at least I didn't have to watch the AAP goon figure things out.

Ken

 

Suspension is factory, nothings been touched. Terrain wise, all asphalt, way down in the Georgia plains lol I was just curious though since it was a staggered setup if the camber or anyting should be changed. I have about 18000 on my current Toyo Proxies T1R's. Time for some new rubber as these are very slick.

 

Is it alright to run 5mm spacers on the rears on stock studs or would you guys recommend changing them out with extended ones despite it being only 5mm?

If not, I'll most likely consider Ichiba 5mm spacers since extended studs are included. I'm also going to mount it along with 73mm to 67.06mm hub centric rings on my wheels.

 

My RX8 on a cold start starts at low rpms is that normal

 

I don't understand the question? Are you refering to idle after starting? Cranking speed?

 

What is the stock rx8 catback made of? Internal and external.

 

I don't understand the question? Its aluminum! Internal or external what?

 

What is inside of the catback. What is the outside made of.what is the inside made of.

All aluminum?

 

I believe it is aluminized steel.
I could be mistaken, but I believe this to be true.

 

If you do get an alingment take it to firestone. If you pay a little extra. I think it was $150US for a lifetime alignment. All I do is schedule an appointment and drop it off. It'll take about an hour and cost me nothing at all.

I get an alingment once a year at a minimum, or when I have tires/suspension work done.

 

None of the firestones in my area care to do "custom" alignments. They only do what "the computer tells them".

 

Yeah, that's just a shop by shop basis. I only go to one so I don't know about any others.

 

Hello everyone, I’ve been reading all over the forums here for an answer but I’m not sure if it’s a correct answer so I wanted to ask here. I have a 05 GT (from the threads I’ve read it’s a GT) But my question is:

I have HID / Xenon headlights but my question is are both low and high beam headlights xenon or are the low beams xenon and the high beams halogen? Also what I’ve read on here is the fog lights are xenon also? I’m just wondering because they are pretty yellow in color compared to the low beams. Is it just a low Kelvin temp resulting in a yellow color but still xenon? Or is there something I can look at that will tell me?

Thanks in advanced Guys!

 

Low beams are Xenon, High beams are halogen.

Fog lights are H11's I believe.

 

Sweet perfect answer to what i was looking for. Kudos Litters.

Now to get all the lights looking the same

Well matching the fog lights with the low's / high's.

Thanks again!

 

Alright I got a dumb question if someone could give me a little bit of info. I have the P0420 code after installing a midpipe. I bought mazdaedit to kill the code and I just want to be sure I'm doing this right. I have 3 tables for DTC.


DTC List Enabled #1
DTC List Enabled #2
DTC List Opt?


I opened the {DTC List Opt?} table and went to the code 0420 and changed the value to 00 and flashed it. So far today I've not gotten a check engine light. I saw somewhere else on this forum buried somewhere someone removed them from both tables. Just want to be sure I'm changing the right things here. A little insight would be appreciated.

Thanks!

 

Have you tried asking in the MazdaEdit thread? People are rather friendly and helpful there, and this isn't a generic question, or even a "dumb question"