What should I be looking for in the new engine and how much do you think it'll go for?

 

I know in CA, a local shop does it for $4300 to $4500 for a mazda reman including labor.

 

Oh, well I live all the way in Missouri so that's not gonna work. plus, I don't have 5 grand in my back pocket at the moment haha

 

okay so my rx8 that I just bought has bad motor mounts...and the mechanic told me theres different 1's for my model.. he said I have to go online and put my vin # in to find the right 1 for my car..... is he an idiot? and if he's not where do I put in the vin# to find the right 1?

 

Do you have a manual transmission or an automatic?

 

Is it true that we need to change oil every 6 months? I did my last oil change on february bevause it clocked just less than a thousand mile on the current oil. Fyi, I am using semi synth oil.

Thanks.

 

Miigs, I think you missed the point he was making. The point is that you need to get a compression test before you buy the 8. $120-$180 at a dealership. If you don't do that and buy an 8 with a dead engine then your first "mod" will have to be replacing the engine. If you don't have the money laying around to replace the engine, you REALLY can't afford to skip the compression test.

Other than that, see the newbie's guide to modding, link is in my signature.

 

Oh, okay sorry about that. And about the compression test, what am I looking for, also, if thats all good. what's the first thing i get to improve my 8, considering the engine is all fine and everything.

 

Have you read the new owner's thread?

I have to correct some of the numbers in there, but it has all the basics.

 

No I haven't! Thanks!

 

I have had my RX8 for 3 weeks now. I haven't been able to start it for a few days. I tried all of the "deflooding" advice. Still won't catch. It turns over, but won't catch. The battery is fine, I've checked it. Is there a way to check on the ignition? I am in a very "red-neck" town, full of Ford & Chevy pickups! I realize that I have to learn how to fix my car. Where can I go? Help, please!

 

Does anyone know how do OMP's behave when you lift off the throttle at high RPM? Without the cooling charge of the fuel coming in, I would expect this to be a time of high seal temperatures?

 

What did you do before you ended up in this problem? When you said: "I tried all of the 'deflooding' advice", did you replace anything? If you own a manual transmission, have a FORD or CHEVY truck pull-start the car.

 

okay so on the interstate yesterday my 8 was running great then all of a sudden the engine light started flashing then I lost power and the rpms started going down even though my foot was on the gas....I pulled over and lifted the hood and the engine was smoking....I couldn't tell exactly where the smoke was coming from....any help would be great!...thanks!

 

There are DIY tests for ignition coil health. Lots of problems it can be:
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...t-here-222584/

OMP is load based. You come off the throttle, it drops the amount of oil injected. I tend to agree with your implied train of thought that OMP injection should remain up for at least a duration after lifting off throttle, though i can see the emissions reasons why they didn't program the map that way.

Flashing CEL is a misfire, lots of direct causes. The smoke doesn't mean anything at the moment, since it is often unclear what "smoke" is. Some people describe coolant steam as "smoke", for example. The only way the engine itself can "smoke" without the smoke coming from the tail pipe is if there is oil spilled on the engine block that is cooking off under heat. So something else is creating what you see, and I can throw out guesses, but that is all they would be. More information would be useful. Mileage and time on your ignition coils, plugs, wires, cat, engine, O2 sensors?

 

the mileage is 106,591....the other stuff unfortunately I got no idea....yea ik im stupid.

 

See the maintenance list in the new owner's thread then, start with the 30k and move on down the list. Sounds like your 8 has been neglected.

 

yeah it probabley has been neglected I just bought it about 2 weeks ago....

 

Dude,
I love your threads but your not exactly correct on this point.

The OMP is Throttle Based and Load Based

Once you're out of WOT and the mechanical and thermal loading have basically stopped there is little need to continue to inject oil..... plus and you said already..
Pollution

EDIT:
But if you really want to .... I think you could with the Cobb AP make a whole bunch of oil get injected during "off throttle"

 

No need to apologize, if I'm wrong, I'm wrong. I just recall a conversation where I asked the same question a few years back, and was given that answer.

What I'd be in favor of (for pure longevity reasons, ignoring emissions/cat) is momentarily, perhaps only 2-3 revolutions?, oil is still injected, so the last injection hasn't been burned away, and as it's spinning down, it still has an oil film to ride on.

Perhaps this happens anyway?

 

Something like this might work

 

My MOP position stays in the 20/30's range when I engine brake. Never noticed just for shifting...

 

I don't drive my RX8 every day....I will leave it for days at a time (if the weather is bad, I just washed it, etc)

Sometimes when I do want to drive it, the battery is dead. This ALWAYS means that someone left the trunk open, or hit the 'open trunk' button by accident or what not. We had everything tested last spring when this was happening on a daily basis....all was well with the car but we replaced the battery anyway.

My question is - why is there such a large battery drain when the trunk is ajar? Thanks in advance for tolerating my stupidity.

 

There are several lights that turn on when the trunk is open, direct connection to the battery, so they come on even if the car is off.

 

Hmm, I will have to check to see if they are working correctly as i do not notice any lights or indicators being on. The trunk is cursed, I think. Thanks!