Akron/Cleveland 8 Owners.
"13B vs. Renesis" Discuss
iTrader: (28)
Long time lurker here in the Cuyahoga Falls area, finally posting because I need some advice...
I'm having clutch problems after it was replaced about 2 months ago along with a warranty-covered engine replacement. No resistance (except springs) on the pedal until it is depressed about 4 inches from the resting position. I have had the clutch bracket replaced already from the recall, and when the clutch was replaced I adjusted the pedal myself to the recommended 1/4-1/2 inch of play. It is virtually impossible to get into gear at this point when the car is running. When off, it can go into gear. Yesterday, before the pedal got so soft, it was possible to shift, but difficult. It seemed that the clutch was never fully off the flywheel and the car would roll somewhat with the clutch all the way in as I tried to put it in gear.
Can anyone recommend any good mechanics in the area that would take a look at it? Montrose Mazda in Kent did the clutch and engine replacement, so I may question them about it since it hasn't been that long since their work. As far as I know, the clutch is not under warranty.
Any advice is appreciated, thanks. Its a 2007 GT.
I'm having clutch problems after it was replaced about 2 months ago along with a warranty-covered engine replacement. No resistance (except springs) on the pedal until it is depressed about 4 inches from the resting position. I have had the clutch bracket replaced already from the recall, and when the clutch was replaced I adjusted the pedal myself to the recommended 1/4-1/2 inch of play. It is virtually impossible to get into gear at this point when the car is running. When off, it can go into gear. Yesterday, before the pedal got so soft, it was possible to shift, but difficult. It seemed that the clutch was never fully off the flywheel and the car would roll somewhat with the clutch all the way in as I tried to put it in gear.
Can anyone recommend any good mechanics in the area that would take a look at it? Montrose Mazda in Kent did the clutch and engine replacement, so I may question them about it since it hasn't been that long since their work. As far as I know, the clutch is not under warranty.
Any advice is appreciated, thanks. Its a 2007 GT.
Thanks Danny.
Winter is coming and all my toys are going away... so if there is any interest in getting dinner one night I would hope it would be soon. I know I saw Doc's red racer up for sale, but his racing season should be winding down a bit too.
European livin n ohio
Well I am up for boneyard whenever.
Quick question. Ordering front rotors here in the next couple days. Going with slotted ones either from EBC or stoptech. Anybody have experience with either? Know if either is turned or straight vaned?
Also Steve what tires did you run this year? Direzza Z2? Or other? Need new tires in spring and was wondering how they performed.
Quick question. Ordering front rotors here in the next couple days. Going with slotted ones either from EBC or stoptech. Anybody have experience with either? Know if either is turned or straight vaned?
Also Steve what tires did you run this year? Direzza Z2? Or other? Need new tires in spring and was wondering how they performed.
"13B vs. Renesis" Discuss
iTrader: (28)
Well I am up for boneyard whenever.
Quick question. Ordering front rotors here in the next couple days. Going with slotted ones either from EBC or stoptech. Anybody have experience with either? Know if either is turned or straight vaned?
Also Steve what tires did you run this year? Direzza Z2? Or other? Need new tires in spring and was wondering how they performed.
Quick question. Ordering front rotors here in the next couple days. Going with slotted ones either from EBC or stoptech. Anybody have experience with either? Know if either is turned or straight vaned?
Also Steve what tires did you run this year? Direzza Z2? Or other? Need new tires in spring and was wondering how they performed.
I ran Z2s this year. I only ran them in the dry, so I can't comment about if they're as good as the Z1 in the wet. Looking at the tread pattern, I don't see how they can be.
If I was looking for a street tire with limited autocross use, I would look at the RE-11A or Kuhmo XS. They seem to have a bit more life while still giving lots of grip under most conditions. I'm looking at both of those for my speed3 come spring, I'm probably going to go with the RE-11A due to the price that Dave Leavy is able to give NORA people at firestone up north.
"13B vs. Renesis" Discuss
iTrader: (28)
It would be nice to see everyone. Last meet we only had 3 people come. So if there are lurkers that want to join, post up when you're free. Normally we have met fridays around 6-7pm. I think we'll have this one at boneyard in broadview hts.
European livin n ohio
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iTrader: (1)
Jon I need some of your electronic expertise...I have an exhaust cut out on my new car and I have no idea what switch to use or how to wire it. Only two leads come from the motor (+ and -), so I am thinking I need a single pole double throw switch. This low voltage stuff confuses me. HELP! haha
Grasshopper
iTrader: (1)
Jon I need some of your electronic expertise...I have an exhaust cut out on my new car and I have no idea what switch to use or how to wire it. Only two leads come from the motor (+ and -), so I am thinking I need a single pole double throw switch. This low voltage stuff confuses me. HELP! haha
If the valve closes on its own when the motor is not energized, all you need is a SPST switch.
In this case when the switch is activated, current is passed to the motor and the valve opens. When switched off, a return spring (or similar method) closes the valve.
If the motor electronically opens and closes, you'll need a DPDT switch (or a DPDT Center Off switch depending on if the motor will continue to run after the valve is fully opened/closed, which will quickly burn the motor up).
This is how I wired my "test fixture" for the APV motor to open and close the valves.
The way this switch is wired it'll drive the motor one direction, then when you flip the switch the other way, the crossing wires changes the polarity and runs the motor the opposite direction.
Hope this helps!
Registered
iTrader: (1)
Depends on the valve...
If the valve closes on its own when the motor is not energized, all you need is a SPST switch.
In this case when the switch is activated, current is passed to the motor and the valve opens. When switched off, a return spring (or similar method) closes the valve.
If the motor electronically opens and closes, you'll need a DPDT switch (or a DPDT Center Off switch depending on if the motor will continue to run after the valve is fully opened/closed, which will quickly burn the motor up).
Attachment 199226 Attachment 199227
This is how I wired my "test fixture" for the APV motor to open and close the valves.
The way this switch is wired it'll drive the motor one direction, then when you flip the switch the other way, the crossing wires changes the polarity and runs the motor the opposite direction.
Hope this helps!
If the valve closes on its own when the motor is not energized, all you need is a SPST switch.
In this case when the switch is activated, current is passed to the motor and the valve opens. When switched off, a return spring (or similar method) closes the valve.
If the motor electronically opens and closes, you'll need a DPDT switch (or a DPDT Center Off switch depending on if the motor will continue to run after the valve is fully opened/closed, which will quickly burn the motor up).
Attachment 199226 Attachment 199227
This is how I wired my "test fixture" for the APV motor to open and close the valves.
The way this switch is wired it'll drive the motor one direction, then when you flip the switch the other way, the crossing wires changes the polarity and runs the motor the opposite direction.
Hope this helps!
Registered
Any suggestions on where to get a compression test nearby? I want to have some numbers to reassure any potential buyers, as I'm selling my RX-8. The Mazda dealer in Medina said they lent their tool out to another dealer, but didn't remember who. When I called Montrose, they wouldn't schedule me in for it until like, mid-November. A non-dealer option would be nice.
I'm in Middleburg Heights.
I'm in Middleburg Heights.
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iTrader: (1)
Preston Mazda in Boardman did mine twice, they usually get you in within a couple days. They only have one rx8 tech his name is tony and he mostly knows his stuff.
European livin n ohio
Any suggestions on where to get a compression test nearby? I want to have some numbers to reassure any potential buyers, as I'm selling my RX-8. The Mazda dealer in Medina said they lent their tool out to another dealer, but didn't remember who. When I called Montrose, they wouldn't schedule me in for it until like, mid-November. A non-dealer option would be nice.
I'm in Middleburg Heights.
I'm in Middleburg Heights.
I prefer Cascade down near Akron, they are fairly competent and did mine the day of.
They also have a deal on oil filters - buy one get the 2nd one for $1 or something like that.
They also have a deal on oil filters - buy one get the 2nd one for $1 or something like that.
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iTrader: (1)
I am still trying to get rid of my s-techs, RPF1's, and 2 coils...
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-parts-s...-power-248783/
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-parts-s...-power-248783/
European livin n ohio
i have tein s-techs, koni's and rpf-1's lol. just installed slotted rotors and pads too. rear rotors are coming in Friday. I am looking for fun stuff for the car. clear corners and maybe a shift ****. a seibon hood, I believe it's the TS style I like.
I might throw in the AEM intake but since there's no real gain I might not. want to get my windows tinted at some point too.
I might be interested in trading rpf-1 though. mine are silver 17x9 45 offset with star specs on them. have some tread left on them. what are yours?
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I might throw in the AEM intake but since there's no real gain I might not. want to get my windows tinted at some point too.
I might be interested in trading rpf-1 though. mine are silver 17x9 45 offset with star specs on them. have some tread left on them. what are yours?
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iTrader: (1)
Mine are 18x9.5 +45 but the tires are shot on them. I am just trying to unload **** since I sold the car and no longer need any of it.
Does anyone local want a couple new coils? It's cheaper than buying them when you need them from a dealer.
Does anyone local want a couple new coils? It's cheaper than buying them when you need them from a dealer.
European livin n ohio
Originally Posted by Jtaylor3
Mine are 18x9.5 +45 but the tires are shot on them. I am just trying to unload **** since I sold the car and no longer need any of it.
Does anyone local want a couple new coils? It's cheaper than buying them when you need them from a dealer.
Does anyone local want a couple new coils? It's cheaper than buying them when you need them from a dealer.
Posted From RX8Club.com Android App
European livin n ohio
Well the slotted rotors are on, new pads are on, fresh brake fluid bled through, pads are bedded in. Car stops so good. Did 6-7 70-15 mph hard brakes in succession plus a ten minute cool down drive. Omg the last couple hard stops the car was stopping so hard it made my stomach uneasy lol!
All that's left is putting in the new coolant reservoir to get rid of that stupid light popping up and flushing the coolant system. Fresh FL-22 in and my baby will be ready for another fun filled winter no traction or stability control in my car (sport model) so lots of sideways fun ahead
All that's left is putting in the new coolant reservoir to get rid of that stupid light popping up and flushing the coolant system. Fresh FL-22 in and my baby will be ready for another fun filled winter no traction or stability control in my car (sport model) so lots of sideways fun ahead
European livin n ohio
Originally Posted by Seth1398
What's up? Recently turned 16 and saw a red beauty for $12,000, so i decided to get it! Learned stick shift just to get it, so if you see me around.
-Fairlawn, Oh
-Fairlawn, Oh
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