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Old 10-14-2013, 08:43 AM
  #12126  
"13B vs. Renesis" Discuss
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Originally Posted by alex-07GT
Long time lurker here in the Cuyahoga Falls area, finally posting because I need some advice...

I'm having clutch problems after it was replaced about 2 months ago along with a warranty-covered engine replacement. No resistance (except springs) on the pedal until it is depressed about 4 inches from the resting position. I have had the clutch bracket replaced already from the recall, and when the clutch was replaced I adjusted the pedal myself to the recommended 1/4-1/2 inch of play. It is virtually impossible to get into gear at this point when the car is running. When off, it can go into gear. Yesterday, before the pedal got so soft, it was possible to shift, but difficult. It seemed that the clutch was never fully off the flywheel and the car would roll somewhat with the clutch all the way in as I tried to put it in gear.

Can anyone recommend any good mechanics in the area that would take a look at it? Montrose Mazda in Kent did the clutch and engine replacement, so I may question them about it since it hasn't been that long since their work. As far as I know, the clutch is not under warranty.

Any advice is appreciated, thanks. Its a 2007 GT.
As this clutch is a pain in the *** to properly bleed, I'm guessing these didn't get all the air out assuming your pedal is adjusted correctly. You would feel a bit of a soft pedal with air in the system though. Though the clutch isn't under warranty, I'd take it back and tell them to drive it (with you in the passenger seat) and ask them if they felt it was normal before demanding they make it right.

Thanks Danny.

Winter is coming and all my toys are going away... so if there is any interest in getting dinner one night I would hope it would be soon. I know I saw Doc's red racer up for sale, but his racing season should be winding down a bit too.
Old 10-14-2013, 10:01 AM
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Well I am up for boneyard whenever.

Quick question. Ordering front rotors here in the next couple days. Going with slotted ones either from EBC or stoptech. Anybody have experience with either? Know if either is turned or straight vaned?

Also Steve what tires did you run this year? Direzza Z2? Or other? Need new tires in spring and was wondering how they performed.
Old 10-15-2013, 07:06 AM
  #12128  
"13B vs. Renesis" Discuss
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Originally Posted by blazenblue63
Well I am up for boneyard whenever.

Quick question. Ordering front rotors here in the next couple days. Going with slotted ones either from EBC or stoptech. Anybody have experience with either? Know if either is turned or straight vaned?

Also Steve what tires did you run this year? Direzza Z2? Or other? Need new tires in spring and was wondering how they performed.
Danny: I have stoptech blank rotors on my s2k now. They're the same brand as centric if I remember correctly. They have stood up well and have plenty of meat left with no signs of warping or hot spots.

I ran Z2s this year. I only ran them in the dry, so I can't comment about if they're as good as the Z1 in the wet. Looking at the tread pattern, I don't see how they can be.

If I was looking for a street tire with limited autocross use, I would look at the RE-11A or Kuhmo XS. They seem to have a bit more life while still giving lots of grip under most conditions. I'm looking at both of those for my speed3 come spring, I'm probably going to go with the RE-11A due to the price that Dave Leavy is able to give NORA people at firestone up north.
Old 10-15-2013, 08:04 PM
  #12129  
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Hey Steve I would like to meet up with everyone before winter hits.
Old 10-16-2013, 07:30 AM
  #12130  
"13B vs. Renesis" Discuss
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It would be nice to see everyone. Last meet we only had 3 people come. So if there are lurkers that want to join, post up when you're free. Normally we have met fridays around 6-7pm. I think we'll have this one at boneyard in broadview hts.
Old 10-16-2013, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Vyndictive
It would be nice to see everyone. Last meet we only had 3 people come. So if there are lurkers that want to join, post up when you're free. Normally we have met fridays around 6-7pm. I think we'll have this one at boneyard in broadview hts.

I'll be there.
Old 10-17-2013, 11:16 AM
  #12132  
"13B vs. Renesis" Discuss
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Originally Posted by blazenblue63
I'll be there.
oh yea? which friday will you be there?
Old 10-17-2013, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Vyndictive
oh yea? which friday will you be there?
That particular Friday
Old 10-31-2013, 07:03 PM
  #12134  
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Jon I need some of your electronic expertise...I have an exhaust cut out on my new car and I have no idea what switch to use or how to wire it. Only two leads come from the motor (+ and -), so I am thinking I need a single pole double throw switch. This low voltage stuff confuses me. HELP! haha
Old 10-31-2013, 07:52 PM
  #12135  
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Originally Posted by Jtaylor3
Jon I need some of your electronic expertise...I have an exhaust cut out on my new car and I have no idea what switch to use or how to wire it. Only two leads come from the motor (+ and -), so I am thinking I need a single pole double throw switch. This low voltage stuff confuses me. HELP! haha
Depends on the valve...
If the valve closes on its own when the motor is not energized, all you need is a SPST switch.
In this case when the switch is activated, current is passed to the motor and the valve opens. When switched off, a return spring (or similar method) closes the valve.

If the motor electronically opens and closes, you'll need a DPDT switch (or a DPDT Center Off switch depending on if the motor will continue to run after the valve is fully opened/closed, which will quickly burn the motor up).
Akron/Cleveland 8 Owners.-dpdt-switch.jpg Akron/Cleveland 8 Owners.-dpdt-switch-wired.jpg
This is how I wired my "test fixture" for the APV motor to open and close the valves.
The way this switch is wired it'll drive the motor one direction, then when you flip the switch the other way, the crossing wires changes the polarity and runs the motor the opposite direction.

Hope this helps!
Old 11-02-2013, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Jon316G
Depends on the valve...
If the valve closes on its own when the motor is not energized, all you need is a SPST switch.
In this case when the switch is activated, current is passed to the motor and the valve opens. When switched off, a return spring (or similar method) closes the valve.

If the motor electronically opens and closes, you'll need a DPDT switch (or a DPDT Center Off switch depending on if the motor will continue to run after the valve is fully opened/closed, which will quickly burn the motor up).
Attachment 199226 Attachment 199227
This is how I wired my "test fixture" for the APV motor to open and close the valves.
The way this switch is wired it'll drive the motor one direction, then when you flip the switch the other way, the crossing wires changes the polarity and runs the motor the opposite direction.

Hope this helps!
Ahhhhhh fantastic! I knew you could make this more understandable for my simple mind. I will probably try this out before installing just to make sure, but I should be exactly like that picture from what I understand. Thanks again!
Old 11-04-2013, 02:38 PM
  #12137  
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Any suggestions on where to get a compression test nearby? I want to have some numbers to reassure any potential buyers, as I'm selling my RX-8. The Mazda dealer in Medina said they lent their tool out to another dealer, but didn't remember who. When I called Montrose, they wouldn't schedule me in for it until like, mid-November. A non-dealer option would be nice.

I'm in Middleburg Heights.
Old 11-05-2013, 03:46 AM
  #12138  
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OH

Preston Mazda in Boardman did mine twice, they usually get you in within a couple days. They only have one rx8 tech his name is tony and he mostly knows his stuff.
Old 11-05-2013, 09:21 AM
  #12139  
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Originally Posted by Sean OGorman
Any suggestions on where to get a compression test nearby? I want to have some numbers to reassure any potential buyers, as I'm selling my RX-8. The Mazda dealer in Medina said they lent their tool out to another dealer, but didn't remember who. When I called Montrose, they wouldn't schedule me in for it until like, mid-November. A non-dealer option would be nice.

I'm in Middleburg Heights.
Any aftermarket stuff you're selling? I am in broadview heights.
Old 11-05-2013, 04:59 PM
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I prefer Cascade down near Akron, they are fairly competent and did mine the day of.

They also have a deal on oil filters - buy one get the 2nd one for $1 or something like that.
Old 11-05-2013, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by blazenblue63
Any aftermarket stuff you're selling? I am in broadview heights.
I am still trying to get rid of my s-techs, RPF1's, and 2 coils...
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-parts-s...-power-248783/
Old 11-06-2013, 05:51 AM
  #12142  
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i have tein s-techs, koni's and rpf-1's lol. just installed slotted rotors and pads too. rear rotors are coming in Friday. I am looking for fun stuff for the car. clear corners and maybe a shift ****. a seibon hood, I believe it's the TS style I like.
I might throw in the AEM intake but since there's no real gain I might not. want to get my windows tinted at some point too.
I might be interested in trading rpf-1 though. mine are silver 17x9 45 offset with star specs on them. have some tread left on them. what are yours?

Posted From RX8Club.com Android App
Old 11-06-2013, 08:06 AM
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Mine are 18x9.5 +45 but the tires are shot on them. I am just trying to unload **** since I sold the car and no longer need any of it.

Does anyone local want a couple new coils? It's cheaper than buying them when you need them from a dealer.
Old 11-06-2013, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Jtaylor3
Mine are 18x9.5 +45 but the tires are shot on them. I am just trying to unload **** since I sold the car and no longer need any of it.

Does anyone local want a couple new coils? It's cheaper than buying them when you need them from a dealer.
are your wheels black? I might want them.

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Old 11-07-2013, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by blazenblue63
are your wheels black? I might want them.

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Sorry just silver
Old 11-09-2013, 07:53 PM
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Well the slotted rotors are on, new pads are on, fresh brake fluid bled through, pads are bedded in. Car stops so good. Did 6-7 70-15 mph hard brakes in succession plus a ten minute cool down drive. Omg the last couple hard stops the car was stopping so hard it made my stomach uneasy lol!

All that's left is putting in the new coolant reservoir to get rid of that stupid light popping up and flushing the coolant system. Fresh FL-22 in and my baby will be ready for another fun filled winter no traction or stability control in my car (sport model) so lots of sideways fun ahead
Old 11-17-2013, 06:26 PM
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What's up? Recently turned 16 and saw a red beauty for $12,000, so i decided to get it! Learned stick shift just to get it, so if you see me around.
-Fairlawn, Oh
Old 11-19-2013, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Seth1398
What's up? Recently turned 16 and saw a red beauty for $12,000, so i decided to get it! Learned stick shift just to get it, so if you see me around.
-Fairlawn, Oh
that's a lot of car for a 16 year old lol but congratulations take it easy in the winter till you're used to what she can do. it's not hard to get in to trouble with the 8. you'll be cruising along and all of a sudden you look down and you're doing 90 lol. have fun. with the right tires she's a great winter car.

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Old 11-20-2013, 03:32 PM
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Yeah winter will be instresting
Old 11-20-2013, 03:36 PM
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Also do any of you know what I should do with my OEM wheels, who ever had my 8 before me painted it with shitty chrome paint and its all bubbled and peeling.


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