docgatorx8er

iTrader: (10)

Roads are clear.

DeViLbOi

iTrader: (1)

Cool deal...we shall see how things are when I finally get out of here.

DeViLbOi

iTrader: (1)

As some of you have known for a little while and some of you found out Friday...there is a 99% chance that I will be moving out west come spring for work. If anyone knows someone that may be in the market for a nice 2 bedroom condo in Lake County or a slightly altered RX8, with original parts included, please let me know.

wheellee

hey guys. its been awhile since i have been on here. hope everyone is doing well. with all this snow we are getting now and since my plans of getting a winter beater didnt pan out i need to get some new tires. due to my financial situation i cant afford new tires but i do know some ppl who have some used tires and rims i can get off them for next to nothing. what i need to know is:

1. can i use a different sized rim/tire then what came stock on the car

2. what rims from another car can i fit on the 8?

3. if i can use a different sized rim what is the smallest i can go?


right now i can get some tires that are on 14" rims and they look like they have the same bolt pattern as the 8. the tires are off a ford ranger

DeViLbOi

iTrader: (1)

The smallest wheel you can put on the 8 is a 16". If you get something that is different than stock you run the risk of having your speedo be off so use something like this to determine how far.

Vyndictive

iTrader: (28)

Also, the bolt pattern is 5x114.3... 5 lug Hondas, Nissans, Kias, Hyundias...
Nothing German I don't believe, they're 5x120.
Fords... I know they keep it SAE, so 5x4.5inches.... Someone told me they would fit... but I don't know for sure and I'm not converting to find out.


The factory offset of the 8 is pretty high, +48 or +50 I believe. But with a lower width wheel, you can reduce the offset.

Like if you went with a 17x7 winter wheel, you could do like a +20 offset with no fitment problems.

Devilboi is right though... an RX8 with the sport package (large brakes) must have atleast a 16 inch wheel to clear the brake calipers. I personally would be looking at 17x7s.

You can probably pick up a decent used set of winter tires and wheels for 400 to 500 bucks.

wheellee

thanks for the info. im not worried about the speedo being off cause i never do the speed limit anyways. and as for the offset thing im

DeViLbOi

iTrader: (1)

You need to worry about the speedo being off because then your mileage is way off and you are probably just putting a bunch of extra miles on your car that it didn't actually drive.

As for offset...it is the measurement from the inside of the wheel where it mounts to the hub to the center of the wheel. So if you have a positive offset your hub is closer to the outside of the car. By having a narrower overall wheel that offset can be smaller than the +50 required by the 8" wheel.

Offset Diagram

Vyndictive

iTrader: (28)

I tackled the speedo issue by getting a tire with a larger sidewall... for example, stock is an 18in wheel with a 45 sidewall aspect. When I got snow tires it was a 17in wheel with a 55 sidewall aspect.

Its not exact, but it helps the cause of keeping the speedo accurate and the odometer.

DeViLbOi

iTrader: (1)

That's why I passed along the calculator

Gopherage

What I been doing is I turn on the portable GPS (TOMTOM) because it tells you how fast you are going. My winter 17's have me going 2mph slower then the speedo. My 19s have me going 2mph faster then the speedo.

At least it's consistent I guess.

wheellee

again thanks for the info everyone.

dont know if anyone noticed or has said anything about this but i just got back from xmas shopping and i bought my son the new need for speed game and there is an 8 on the back cover of it being chased by a cop

Shinka_MJR

i've been car hunting craigslist and autotrader for a little while now. how could you not find a winter beater? i've seen so many cars priced from 500 to 6000, i could have given you 5 dozen recommendations. what's your price range? Finally picked up a honda CRV for 4600 but like i said, my bottom line i looked was $500 and i saw some decent 4wd and fwd vehicles. Hope you didnt spend that much on the tires.

winter tires may help get you through the snow but that wont keep some other knucklehead from totalling your baby

Gopherage

Just make sure you find a good winter beater haha

Steve you once said how happy you ended up with the Bronco purchase because it was free of problems.

The truck turns out also has a cracked head....to go along with the now minor head gasket

Vyndictive

iTrader: (28)

Bronco wouldn't start today.. the moisture in the air overwhelmed the ignition system... common problem with those Fords.
I never said free of problems... Since I bought it:
1. Rusted Brake Line - replaced
2. Tailgate window motor - replaced
3. Driver's seat - replaced
4. Hard top window - replaced (it was broken when purchased)
5. Passenger side mirror - ... replaced, sort of.
6. Front brake pads - replaced
7. Tranny fluid replaced and new tranny filter.
8. Dash board lights replaced - have since burnt out again...
9. Speakers replaced - all oem speakers were blown.

However, I was just looking for a solid powertrain, and that's more of less what I got. Body is rusted, interior is trashed, suspension sucks... etc


A cracked head is serious issue. I would say you're at a cross roads in terms of what you're going to do with that truck...

EDIT: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy...Q5fAccessories

Road Trip to Lansing?

Gopherage

Wow that is an amazing deal. I already told the shop to go ahead and give me a refurbished one and finish cleaning the valves on the other head. My goal was to put it back together on Sunday.

I should have thought to look on ebay before i spent cash to get my old heads rebuilt/ and replaced.


I suppose those would have needed cleaning too, and one of them may have ended up cracked also. So who knows what my best choice would have been.

Gopherage

Would anybody be able to come help me diagnosis a weird sound coming from my car.

Between 2000-3000 it sounds like metal on metal vibrating only while accelerating and not while reving it in neutral.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

I'm available tomorrow afternoon if you need help.

DeViLbOi

iTrader: (1)

Jon - One of the guys in the thread he posted in suggested cleaning wheel hubs and had him retorque his lugs. I added to the list to check clearances around the rotor itself. He was also going to check his catch can to make sure it wasn't rattling. I also suggested he have someone walk alongside the car to see if they could pinpoint a location but he didn't know if they would be able to hear it.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like you guys got it under control then...

DeViLbOi

iTrader: (1)

Except the car I was goin to look at down that way on Monday sold this morning.

Other than a rub on a wheel/rotor/etc the only other part in that area I can think of failing would be a wheel bearing...anything else Im missing there?

Gopherage

I must admit i have no idea how to check the clearance around the rotors...? I think that guys suggestion was about the popping sound the car makes when it sits for a long period of time. I think he misunderstood the problem and didn't catch the part where it only happens under load and between 2500 and 3200 rpms... Still going to retorque the wheels to check. Can you guys describe to me how to check to make sure there is clearance with the rotors?

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Too many things to speculate on and not worth listing until I can hear it to narrow it down.
If he wanted to eliminate anything with the wheel, just jack the car and check each wheel at a time.

DeViLbOi

iTrader: (1)

What I was saying Josh was that while you're going around checking the hubs and torqueing wheels that you should just looks at the areas around the brake rotor and make sure that nothing is rubbing. I doubt anything is there, but while you have the wheel off it is worth the look.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Or worth a spin
Spin the wheel and listen/feel for anything rubbing.