The drive is powered and spins, but the "logic board" won't communicate with any device that you plug it into. The company IT had the drive at home (he wanted to mess with it over the long weekend).

So he'll bring it back tomorrow and I can take it from there. . . not sure how you would attack this without somehow getting the drive to be visible when hooked it.

-------

Jon, also... Josh is on his way down here to pick up some wheel studs for the donor... I'm assuming removing them off the front is the way to go judging from previous posts. I'll ask here and then go searching, but I can take a dead blow hammer and pound those right out it sounds like...

Any think I need to be aware of?

 

Hard drive- Sucks that we have this variable with someone else looking at it.
Hopefully he didn't do anything to further "damage" the drive such as trying to format/fdisk it (if the BIOS itself recognized the drive and not Windows).
But if you don't want my help... no big deal.

Wheel stud- Yes, you can use a dead blow on it.
Things to be aware of... make sure nothing is behind the stud when you pound it out.

 

Well, I'll get the drive back tomorrow, and when I ran the simple problem solving I know to do, Bios didn't recognize it and because nothing recognizes the drive at all, he was unable to do anything with it. I think he put it in a different case to run it like a slave drive, but that's it.

Per the wheel studs... the donors wheels hubs are just flapping around cause everything else has been removed... any idea on the best way to brace them to hit them with said dead blow?

 

Steve, since these are good studs and you want to make sure the threads are still functional, I would suggest threading a lug nut on to the stud before hitting it with a hammer.

Also, I recommend a 5lb solid hammer rather than a dead blow. One good whack will knock them out, and with the nut on you have 3 positives:

1) you have a slightly bigger surface to hit (or miss )
2) you won't damage the threads if you don't hit it perfectly on center
3) the stud won't go flying across the floor when it is relieved from the steering knuckle

As for securing the steering knuckle from moving, I reallycan't help you there unless I saw what we were dealing with. I don't exactly remember what all we took out that we could possible secure the kunckle to.

 

Got all 5 out with minimal difficulty... ended up using a 5lbs like your said instead of the dead blow.

 

Nice work.

 

Steve - I have never had a hard drive fail at the circuit board and still spin. It is kinda required for the motor to work right and as it has no moving parts it is pretty safe against damage. Think of it like your car not starting because your UIM failed.

Jon - If you get the drive slap it into an external enclosure that you know works and then boot your PC using a Linux Live CD. Steve had the data in a folder off My Documents so Windows won't let you copy out of it.

 

Finally got that damn hole tapped in my LIM.
My cordless drill couldn't handle the constant drilling and living on a 3rd floor apartment makes it difficult to run an electrical cord to the car.
So I called up Brian and asked if I could drive over and borrow his power drill.
After I drilled and tapped it, Brian found the right size bolt laying around so I didn't have to run out and buy one on the way home.
I tapped the other two hole on the LIM because the bolts didn't thread in very easily by hand (didn't want a repeat).
I also ran each bolt through the die for safe measures.

Thanks Brian for lending me a hand, the power tools, and the Reese Cups!

 

New to this car studs are installed and held up quite well when i took it for the test drive.

Thanks Jon and Doc and to everyone who commented and pointed me in the right direction on what needed to be done.

Thanks Steve for giving me studs and lending me a torque wrench.

If anyone ever needs help installing or taking out studs I now have experience doing it.

I did Macgyver it a bit to install the new one. Didn't have enough large washers to pull the new stud through. So i used wood screws that had big loops on the end. Worked perfectly and 3 is apparently the exact right amount to pull it out an inch. Honestly it took me 30 minutes to figure it all out and get it installed. I think it would even be easier should I ever need to do it again.

 

Awesome... glad you got it figured out Josh!

 

It felt good to fix my own mistake rather than just paying someone else to fix it.

 

Yeah... there is going to be a lot of this process while you're on the learning curve.

 

Something incredibly funny happened to me this morning.
I was leaving work and I saw a CEL, which I haven't seen in awhile since I have an AccessPORT.
I looked it up and it was a P2070!
For those who don't know that code, its for the "SSV Stuck Open".

I check the SSV this past weekend when I had the UIM off and it cycled fine.
I did notice on the way to Brian's that the car would loss power at 4500rpm.
Thinking it was just the intake leak since I busted that bolt I ignored it.
After fixing the LIM and driving home from Brian's I had more power loss at 4500rpm.
It did cross my mind that the SSV opens around that rpm range.

Last time I put the UIM on I questioned the seal between it and the auxiliary runner section of the UIM.
So I made that a plan to check this weekend.
Now leaving work this morning and seeing a P2070 error (which made me laugh), I stopped by a gas station and while filing up I checked the hose that connects the UIM to the vacuum chamber for the AIR, SSV, and VDI solenoids.
It was there and connected, but I removed it and reinserted onto the nipple.
I cleared the code and drove home, giving it hard acceleration above 4000rpm and it felt fine.
Not sure if there is a crack in the vacuum hose that got "covered" when I reinserted it, but it appeared to help.
I'll give it a couple more drive cycles and see if the symptom and code return.

 

Well if you end up having to take it all apart, i'll come help you this time I'll get all the pesky bolts that only I and small Japanese engineer's hands can reach comfortably.

 

Wanna learn how to run a torch?

 

This sounds like fun. :D

 

Haha sure.

Although lets get some practice on something that is not either of our cars.


Remember last time I loosened the wrong bolt on your caliper Sorry about that still.

 

Want me to come by with my spool of SSV wire?

 

Thanks... appreciate the offer.
After reinstalling the vac line yesterday I haven't had hesitation since.
Drove it pretty good on the way to work and it ran good.

LOL... we can run the wire into the cab and I can just pull on it every time I hit 4200rpm

 

hey guys, my friends selling a set of 5Zigen GN+ from his 3000gt, just wondering if any of you guys are interested on here. im gonna put em in the for sale thread but if any of you guys wanted them id let em go here first. there in like immaculate condition and there 18x7.5 +48 offset in front and 18x8.5 +38 offset in rear. bronze color and what not. anyways, just seein if theres any interest in em.

 

My brother-in-law will be competing in his very 1st Toughman competition Friday, April 23, 2010 7:30pm - 10:30pm in Akron.
Tickets are $20 if anyone is interested in tagging along.

 

What is entailed at a tough man competition? And will there be alcohol served at said event?

 

Never actually been to one.
I believe they are in a 4-sided ring (so its not like UFC/MMA) and I believe they where gloves, but I think it'll still be fun to watch people knock the **** out of each other.
Alcohol severed.... it better. I thought that was a common drink at all fights

 

. . . I was thinking of strong man competitions when the have to pull army tanks and lift 500 lbs rocks over their head and stuff. . .

Could be interesting. . .

 

One of the guys I used to work with used to do Toughman competitions and it was basically like FightClub...no rules...just survive. And they tend not to serve alcohol at the local MMA events to keep the fights out of the crowd and in the cage.