That is one strange issue about the air bags. . .

So. . . weather is nice... everyone has their cars out and working (for the most part)

When we meeting? I need additional motivation to even wash my car!

 

I agree with Steve, weather is nice we should all meet up and show off our cars.

 

No one wants to see my riced out pos, but I'll hang out and drink some beers

 

Party at Brian's on Sunday!

 

I'll 2nd that!

 

Kristen and I will be having a house warming party probably in June... so we can look forward to that.

I say we meet up this friday or saturday (4/9 or 4/10) in Macedonia.

Maybe not outback though cause of the crowd...

 

ROFL!

Actually I'm changing the diff and tranny fluid on Sunday, as well as maybe something else in the car if something happens that's like 90% certain. lol

And re-threading someones shifter and ****

 

Trying to do a custom short shifter...

 

Oh no you didn't!

Nah, just fixing the threads on the shifter and in the ****.

Which brings me to the question, the threads on the 8's shifter are an M10x1.25 correct? I've read conflicting opinions.

Obviously when I get the die on the threads I'll know for sure, but I figure I'd just ask in case anyone (Jon wink wink) knows.

 

LOL.. I honestly never used a thread gauge on the shifter.
But like you said, once the die is installed you'll know.
I've also used a tap to verify the thread pitch matched before using the die.

 

yAy for doin fluid swapping with Brian.

 

Hey guys, hows it goin?

I installed my BHR coils today. wasnt too bad, just time consuming.

But i do have an issue that someone might have an idea about.

Before the issue, the boost gauge went up to 4-5 lbs of boost, and the blow of sound was clean.

Now, the gauge is shooting up to almost 10 lbs of boost, the blow off is high pitched, im guessing due to more pressure, and air is coming out of the air filter.

It sounds to me like the boost controller isnt working properly.

Any ideas?

 

The BOV is making a different noise because of the amount of pressure being released. A BOV will change its sound depending on boost levels.

As for the increase in boost, I haven't looked at your setup but I have a few questions...

1) Is the boost controller in the location of the coils, or anything you had to remove to get the coils swapped? If so there is a possibility that you bumped the boost controller and upped the boost (depending on the style this can happen)

2) I'm assuming the turbo has an internal wastegate. Do you know what pressure wastegate actuator is on the turbo?

3) Are you hitting fuel cut?


Comments

A) Check over the boost controller to make sure the sample line going from the pressure side of the turbo to boost controller and the line going from the controller to the wastegate actuator is still in place. If you bumped this line off the turbo will just spike to the maximum boost it can create untill you either hit fuel cut or the turbo stops being able to make more boost.


B) If all that is connected then dial the boost all the way back on the controller so your wastegate is controlling the pressure and not te boost controller. If that works then re-adjust the boost controller until you are back to your normal running pressure

C) If the boost still spikes after all the lines have been checked for connections and the the controller dialed all the way back, take the controller out. Go to autozone and get a vacuum line adapter, one with 2 male ends on it and put it in place of the controller. It is improtant to close the loop of that line because if it is left open it will cause the turbo to spike as much boost as it can. See comment A)

D) If after all that is done and the car is still spiking, you may have to disconnect the downpipe and pressureize the wastegate actuator to see if the wastegate is opening up.



Boost controllers do go bad, but go through these steps and try and figure it out based on what I posted. If by some chance none of this works and you are still having problems with it then shoot me a pm. It will go directly to my phone and I can post up some more thoughts with what you are experiencing.

If all else fails and you can limp the car to Youngstown on Sunday, I can take at look at it.

 

The boost controller is a Greddy PRofec B Spec-II, and the unit is in the glovebox.

As far as any parts near the coils, would only be the air line that connects to the blow off valve. Wich slide right off and right back on again. Not sure if that is how it is suposed to be? It is only held on by a easy zip strip.

As far as the wastegate. From what i can find it is internal. Ive actually done a lot of research. And the kit installed the Greddy kit. The turbo its self is a T618Z 10cm2 (Actuator Type). Not sure what the 10cm2 means.

So nothing else was touched. But maybe off hand.. The connector from the wiring harness to the intake. there are 2 plugs, 1 pig fat black plug, and a small green plug.
The green plug on mine is just hanging out. Where does it go on a stock 8?

I am currently reading the manual for the controller. On the 3rd lap to make sure i understand each function and remember it all. Maybe a few adjustments on the start boost and gain might settle it down.

And for sunday, that might be hard, it is easter and i have a split family. So ill be with the side i dont see often.

I can always leave it in the garage and work out a better day for your more experienced brain.

 

Sounds like that electrical tie needs to be tightened down a bunch. As for the green plug...I am going to guess that it is the one that goes over to the VFAD.

 

You are correct.
Its the electrical connection for the VFAD solenoid.

 

w00t w00t! Im gettin better.

 

So this VFAD. Im gonna guess that mine is gone? considering the aftermarket stuff and i dont have to be concerned with its hanging out skills.

 

Do you have an aftermarket intake?

 

Yea

 

Yup...then you don't have a need for the VFAD.

 

I posted my OEM VR front bumper in the classifieds. Forgot to ask if any one here would need it. Not sure why you would, just being considerate. If you are remotely interested in it, just let me know and I can pull the thread while you think about it.

Also, just to be clear, when replacing a HID low beam bulb, I need to get at it by pulling the black plastic off the wheel well? That's how the DIY says to do it. I welcome any other ideas as I really dislike messing with those plastic black rivets.

 

You selling your OEM bumper are you getting a body kit or something?

 

Yes. I got a Shine bumper over the winter, and my buddy in Houston spotted mazdaspeed rear replica and replica skirts on craigslist. He got the guy down to $150 for both, so I took them. Still waiting for them to get shipped up here. I bought authentic skirts right before that deal. The authentics arrived in such horrible shape, that they are probably not worth salvaging. If any of you guys want to practice patching and painting, I will probably give them away for next to nothing. I paid $350, for them but I'm thinking it will take at least another $200 to get them fixed and painted. I will just deal with the replicas as they are in better shape. I would hope someone could fix the authentics up as it makes me sick to pay $350 + shipping, only to see them go straight in the thrash.

Sale pending on the bumper

 

Spent a good amount of time on my car today!
Finally got the water temp adapter in so now my car isn't riced with non-functional gauges.
While the car was warming up (to chase the coolant once the thermostat opens) I verified there were not leaks!
Once the AccessPort read 185F water temp (just after the thermostat opened) the water temp gauge started reading temp.
After idling for 10min I saw the AP was reading 181F while the gauge was reading 179F, which is pretty damn close since they are taken from different places.
Soldered all the wires that were in the engine bay and zip-tied them around the steering column.

I had the airbox off and saw a little black around the throttle body valve.
Removed the throttle body and felt a little bit of oil grit in the UIM.
Damn... I had to remove the UIM at that point.
Once I got it off I realized that the oil only made it to the first bend on the UIM and it was dry where it connects to the LIM.
Gave it a good cleaning and reinstalled.
While tightening one of the bolts, it started to feel tough turning it.
I was just about to stop turning when it happened... the bolt snapped!

****... so I removed the UIM and yup, couldn't grab any part of the broken bolt to turn it.
And I didn't have an EZ-out either so we started drilling.
Tried tapping in an Allen wrench to turn it, no luck.
Cut a slit into the bolt and manifold with a Dremel hoping to get it enough to stick a flat-head screwdriver on and turn, wouldn't budge!
Heated the manifold with a torch to expand the metal and then turn the bolt... nothing!
So I sanded it down and reinstalled the UIM without that bolt.
I'll have to borrow my tap and die set from work and re-thread it.
Hopefully this doesn't create a bad vacuum leak... I'll find out tomorrow when I go to work!

Depending on my schedule (which can change any day) I'll probably work on the LIM next weekend and maybe strip the paint from the brake calipers and prep them for painting!
At least it was nice out today... got a little cloudy and windy, but still felt nice!

Steve- Charles R Hill said he'll send me a gift tomorrow but I can't keep it.
So maybe we can get together by the weekend and take care of that.