Akron/Cleveland 8 Owners.



I wish I had the power to modify that post...
Holding the odometer button does NOT reset anything.
That only takes you to an I/O diagnostics screen (which is why it displays 'TEST').
Not to mention the NVRAM reset is done by pressing the brake pedal, NOT the KAM as he mentioned in that post.
Please ignore that post all together.
For details on what holding the odometer button does, please read this DIY (made by your's truly):
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-diagnostic-outputs-155947/
Read this thread that details how to properly reset the KAM and NVRAM and what specifically your resetting:
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ighlight=reset
Now for your issue Stig... have you tested/changed the ignition coils?
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-diagnostic-outputs-155947/
Read this thread that details how to properly reset the KAM and NVRAM and what specifically your resetting:
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ighlight=reset
Now for your issue Stig... have you tested/changed the ignition coils?
Hey Jon..thanks for the input..I didn't know this didn't really change anything :-)..The coils were changed about 18 month ago.
For details on what holding the odometer button does, please read this DIY (made by your's truly):
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=155947
Read this thread that details how to properly reset the KAM and NVRAM and what specifically your resetting:
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ighlight=reset
Now for your issue Stig... have you tested/changed the ignition coils?
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=155947
Read this thread that details how to properly reset the KAM and NVRAM and what specifically your resetting:
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ighlight=reset
Now for your issue Stig... have you tested/changed the ignition coils?
To rule out any ignition component you need to test them.
Either remove them and test with a meter, or use an inline ignition tester/timing light to test each coil for consistent sparks (which is a better method).
You mentioned having a code generated... what was it?
Either remove them and test with a meter, or use an inline ignition tester/timing light to test each coil for consistent sparks (which is a better method).
You mentioned having a code generated... what was it?
Hey Jon, - thanks again as always - about two weeks ago it was running really rough at all RPMs and I had
-Code 0420 Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
-Cylinder 2 misfire...0302 code
The CEL flashed for a few seconds once on the highway (thats when I got the 030). I'm going to do some shopping this morning and see how it runs after what I did yesterday (brake pedal reset thing).
I'll post an a few hours
-Code 0420 Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
-Cylinder 2 misfire...0302 code
The CEL flashed for a few seconds once on the highway (thats when I got the 030). I'm going to do some shopping this morning and see how it runs after what I did yesterday (brake pedal reset thing).
I'll post an a few hours
Stig - its possible your cat is clogged and creating too much back pressure and thus causing the misfire. You may be diagnosing the wrong symptom with chasing this down as an ignition problem.
someone shoot me in da head
hi fellas, long time no see. So let me share my woes. I turned my car on to find a check engine light on yesterday morn. Finished my shift at the station house today at 8am and decided to peek at the engine bay. Behold I find my dipstick covered in what seems to be olive green pudding(tastes like oil n coolant). I like tapioca... So Mr. Shinka is going to Park Mazda tmrw with 60k on the odo. Any thoughts or advice fellas? I'm sure I've blown a seal and will probly need a new engine. Anyone had a replacement from mazda put in? Thanx fellas!
It would be hard to tell with the weather, but are you making lots of white smoke? Lack of power? And using coolant? Those all would point to a bad seal.
The dipstick does get that creamy condensation on it, but it shouldn't be greenish and smell/taste (?) like coolant.
The dipstick does get that creamy condensation on it, but it shouldn't be greenish and smell/taste (?) like coolant.
1) Remove all aftermarket parts connected to the engine.
2) Dont' take it to Park Mazda of Wooster (they suck dick)
3) I believe Bedford has a Rotary Master Tech on staff. Go there.
I blew out the main oil seal on mine and oil was barfing out of the engine faster then I could keep it in there. Mazda wouldn't replace my engine and the dealer was pushing like crazy for it.
Either way, good luck. Also, unless you are covered under a certified warranty I would make 100% sure that you are indeed losing coolant to the engine because you are going to have to foot the bill if you don't. (provided they don't replace the engine)
And from the sounds of it, they won't replace the engine unless the compression is shot. (at least from my experience)
2) Dont' take it to Park Mazda of Wooster (they suck dick)
3) I believe Bedford has a Rotary Master Tech on staff. Go there.
I blew out the main oil seal on mine and oil was barfing out of the engine faster then I could keep it in there. Mazda wouldn't replace my engine and the dealer was pushing like crazy for it.
Either way, good luck. Also, unless you are covered under a certified warranty I would make 100% sure that you are indeed losing coolant to the engine because you are going to have to foot the bill if you don't. (provided they don't replace the engine)
And from the sounds of it, they won't replace the engine unless the compression is shot. (at least from my experience)
I was kidding about the taste... Bad humor. I hope its just cold weather condensation. For those that know me you know I work 24hr shifts as a paramedic. So if the car sat 24hrs it may have not been hot enough. I can't feel any noticeable loss of power. My engine light is on since yesterday. Temps on both oil and coolant are normal. Coolant looks low but is still clear and green.
Before you go to a dealership, stop at autozone to get your check engine light code pulled. Its free and it'll give you a place to start.
(I agree on park wooster, they'll take you to the cleaners - go somewhere else)
John: Cold weather condensation is more tan. Like the head of a Guinness or some latte drink. there has never been any green tone, tint, or smell. A little gas smell is normal, but never coolant.
(I agree on park wooster, they'll take you to the cleaners - go somewhere else)
John: Cold weather condensation is more tan. Like the head of a Guinness or some latte drink. there has never been any green tone, tint, or smell. A little gas smell is normal, but never coolant.
Still running the same after some errands this morning
I'm thinking it must be a blocked CAT - all the ignition stuff (except wires) are less than 2 years old. I pulled the plugs last week and they weren't in bad shape. I'm going to replace the plug wires and move on from any ignition issues. There is a set of Taylor wires at Summit for $38
Now that I'm on winter break from school I'll have more time to tinker. I think next is to take the CAT off and "clean it out" as it were. This will give me a CEL all the time won't it?
I'm thinking it must be a blocked CAT - all the ignition stuff (except wires) are less than 2 years old. I pulled the plugs last week and they weren't in bad shape. I'm going to replace the plug wires and move on from any ignition issues. There is a set of Taylor wires at Summit for $38
Now that I'm on winter break from school I'll have more time to tinker. I think next is to take the CAT off and "clean it out" as it were. This will give me a CEL all the time won't it?
The devil made me do it
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Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Colorado Springs, CO
Yes...removing the glass honeycombs will give you a CEL all the time.
On an unrelated note I got an IM from Noel earlier today and he was forced to sell his 8 as well.
On an unrelated note I got an IM from Noel earlier today and he was forced to sell his 8 as well.
TeethNThings.com
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From: Mere seconds behind the leader...Doh!
Fluid changing party Sunday around 11 if anyone wants to stop by. Just going to heat up the garage so we can swap oil, tranny, etc.
Stop by and bring my Christmas present.
Stop by and bring my Christmas present.
so I'm a moron and since I've never had my car out in winter I wasn't aware of the ridiculousamount of "cream" with covered my oil cap and dip stk. I drained, flushed and changed the oil then ran the car down 271/480 for a joyride. This cleared my check engine light and seems to have banished the "cream". I feel like an ***! Btw... I was low on coolant and found a leaky hose connection. Fixed that also.
so I'm a moron and since I've never had my car out in winter I wasn't aware of the ridiculousamount of "cream" with covered my oil cap and dip stk. I drained, flushed and changed the oil then ran the car down 271/480 for a joyride. This cleared my check engine light and seems to have banished the "cream". I feel like an ***! Btw... I was low on coolant and found a leaky hose connection. Fixed that also.
The devil made me do it
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,708
Likes: 2
From: Colorado Springs, CO
so I'm a moron and since I've never had my car out in winter I wasn't aware of the ridiculousamount of "cream" with covered my oil cap and dip stk. I drained, flushed and changed the oil then ran the car down 271/480 for a joyride. This cleared my check engine light and seems to have banished the "cream". I feel like an ***! Btw... I was low on coolant and found a leaky hose connection. Fixed that also.
http://www.finishlineperformance.com...50-06-1664.pdf
so I'm a moron and since I've never had my car out in winter I wasn't aware of the ridiculousamount of "cream" with covered my oil cap and dip stk. I drained, flushed and changed the oil then ran the car down 271/480 for a joyride. This cleared my check engine light and seems to have banished the "cream". I feel like an ***! Btw... I was low on coolant and found a leaky hose connection. Fixed that also.


