Wisconsin Member List
oh nice post a pic if you have one. I ended up having to work so I couldn't make it. I will be at king motorsports dyno day on june 2nd if anyone else is going and wants to hangout for a bit, made sure to take off!
here's a picture she needs a lot of work but she'll be done one day!!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/stewiefed/7242334538/http://www.flickr.com/photos/stewiefed/7242334538/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/stewiefed/, on Flickr
yea for sure we'll bump into each other at some point
http://www.flickr.com/photos/stewiefed/7242334538/http://www.flickr.com/photos/stewiefed/7242334538/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/stewiefed/, on Flickr
yea for sure we'll bump into each other at some point
Stopping in to say hello. New here, but not to rotaries. Have had 3 FC (88 GXL, 91 Vert, 89 GXL) before and loved them.
Picked up the 8 less than a year ago and decided it is time to dive into what I can do to it (maintenance/reliability-wise).
Reading through some stickies and trying to decide a plan to take care of things with some money I'll get from selling my crx in july. (looks like I need to do ignition even though it revs smooth and powerful up to redline, might need a clutch (bearing-type noise when clutch is 'engaged') fluid changes, etc) ... going to try not to be overwhelmed searching for info (any help would be appreciated, but not necessary ^_^)
04 VR GT MT ~87k (oh how I wish it was stormy blue :p)
Picked up the 8 less than a year ago and decided it is time to dive into what I can do to it (maintenance/reliability-wise).
Reading through some stickies and trying to decide a plan to take care of things with some money I'll get from selling my crx in july. (looks like I need to do ignition even though it revs smooth and powerful up to redline, might need a clutch (bearing-type noise when clutch is 'engaged') fluid changes, etc) ... going to try not to be overwhelmed searching for info (any help would be appreciated, but not necessary ^_^)
04 VR GT MT ~87k (oh how I wish it was stormy blue :p)
Car is running well, been driving around last few weeks, seen a few 8's running around Milwaukee and Waukesha area.
Off the road this week for coilovers and other little TLC items that need to be done.
Off the road this week for coilovers and other little TLC items that need to be done.
Beautiful car Stewie, looks really sleek in black. I'm planning on flat black after I get her mechanically sound.
Last edited by SauerKraut; Jun 4, 2012 at 12:56 PM.
Stopping in to say hello. New here, but not to rotaries. Have had 3 FC (88 GXL, 91 Vert, 89 GXL) before and loved them.
Picked up the 8 less than a year ago and decided it is time to dive into what I can do to it (maintenance/reliability-wise).
Reading through some stickies and trying to decide a plan to take care of things with some money I'll get from selling my crx in july. (looks like I need to do ignition even though it revs smooth and powerful up to redline, might need a clutch (bearing-type noise when clutch is 'engaged') fluid changes, etc) ... going to try not to be overwhelmed searching for info (any help would be appreciated, but not necessary ^_^)
04 VR GT MT ~87k (oh how I wish it was stormy blue :p)
Picked up the 8 less than a year ago and decided it is time to dive into what I can do to it (maintenance/reliability-wise).
Reading through some stickies and trying to decide a plan to take care of things with some money I'll get from selling my crx in july. (looks like I need to do ignition even though it revs smooth and powerful up to redline, might need a clutch (bearing-type noise when clutch is 'engaged') fluid changes, etc) ... going to try not to be overwhelmed searching for info (any help would be appreciated, but not necessary ^_^)
04 VR GT MT ~87k (oh how I wish it was stormy blue :p)
As for ignition. Just check your plugs first. Plugs alone make a huge difference. Best place to get em yet is rockauto.com
If you want to do coils. Advance auto evidently sells some legit ones for cheap. G luck
Hey diet, I think I saw you on the freeway last week or so. I was in my black 8, gunmetal rims.
The factory rear aero flares? Mazdaspeed skirts?
I have a R magic clone rear bumper and side skirts I'd sell ya cheap.
Was gonna get them fitted but my buddy never got back to me. And I was forced into selling my beater car. So the RX has to tough out WI winters
I have a R magic clone rear bumper and side skirts I'd sell ya cheap.
Was gonna get them fitted but my buddy never got back to me. And I was forced into selling my beater car. So the RX has to tough out WI winters
I too thought the same thing about the bearing noise with the clutch engaged. After doing some digging, and talking to Randy at triple R - all RX8s do this noise. What your hearing are the main shaft bearings spinning and it's totally normal. You gotta remember. The trans is right below you.
As for ignition. Just check your plugs first. Plugs alone make a huge difference. Best place to get em yet is rockauto.com
If you want to do coils. Advance auto evidently sells some legit ones for cheap. G luck
Hey diet, I think I saw you on the freeway last week or so. I was in my black 8, gunmetal rims.
As for ignition. Just check your plugs first. Plugs alone make a huge difference. Best place to get em yet is rockauto.com
If you want to do coils. Advance auto evidently sells some legit ones for cheap. G luck
Hey diet, I think I saw you on the freeway last week or so. I was in my black 8, gunmetal rims.
Shortly after writing about the noise, I did a lot of searching and found out how common this noise was on quite a few cars, not all of them 'sporty' as well. I just kept thinking, a bearing would be consistent all the time, I was just being a bit overly cautious and worried about nothing :pI'm sure all the ignition parts are due ... it was running fine through the rpm, just a slight 'miss' or stutter, but was not dropping power >7k until this past week. I have a new problem that I need to post in a more visible part of the forum in a moment to get the wisdom from the brilliance of the members.
Also trying to scan this forum when not busy to find a mechanic I can trust because the local dealership actually admitted they have no rotary qualified personnel working for them.
It is a shame, I was supposed to do a sunset cruise on Road America last night, but my car isn't turning over at all (lights, keyless, etc all work fine, but it is as if the started wasn't connected). So a bit sad, though this was a slow event (35 mph) and I'd prefer to go a bit faster than that (read some of the cruises on race weekends hold a 65 mph avg speed :D). Well, off to post this piece of information in the bigger part of the forum
Cookie, you should try and get in touch with Randy Slagle.
He works out in Waukesha, he was the last qualified rotary tech to work at Hall.
Don't forget to try talking to the guys at Concours. They used to have an old head who knew ALOT about the rotaries.
As for not turning over, check you're starter, make sure the signal wire is still hooked up. I went through this issue with my swap. I checked all the grounds, bench tested the starter finally figured out the signal wire had gotten a little dirty.
He works out in Waukesha, he was the last qualified rotary tech to work at Hall.
Don't forget to try talking to the guys at Concours. They used to have an old head who knew ALOT about the rotaries.
As for not turning over, check you're starter, make sure the signal wire is still hooked up. I went through this issue with my swap. I checked all the grounds, bench tested the starter finally figured out the signal wire had gotten a little dirty.
Anyone have a spare oil metering pump lying around?
I need to borrow one, plug it in and make sure it IS the omp causing me to enter limp mode.
Don't need to attach it to the motor, just plug it into the wiring.
If anyone has a motor out of the car or a known good OMP they'd be willing to lend out tomorrow or this weekend, let me know.
I'll pick it up, or invite you over, either way, i would apprecitaite it before i dropp 400 on a part i really don't even need.
Thanks again.
I need to borrow one, plug it in and make sure it IS the omp causing me to enter limp mode.
Don't need to attach it to the motor, just plug it into the wiring.
If anyone has a motor out of the car or a known good OMP they'd be willing to lend out tomorrow or this weekend, let me know.
I'll pick it up, or invite you over, either way, i would apprecitaite it before i dropp 400 on a part i really don't even need.
Thanks again.
The starter was shot. Cranks so much faster now with the new one, I had no idea how worn it was. Sounded 'normal' compared to other cars, but not to this new one.
I'll be looking up Randy @ Triple R soon. I want a professional familiar with the car to give her a good inspection so I can plan for things that may need to be replaced in the near future, and work out a long term reliability and power goal (simple upgrades, not looking for 300 rwhp or anything :p).
I need the ignition done now. I don't like that loss of power >6/7k rpm that started just before the started died. I know I can't get to the plugs myself (apartments have rules about not working on cars on their premises :'( ), so will probably let Randy do coils, plugs, wires, as well as my current oil change, diff, and trans fluid changes. Might have the motor mounts done as well (from browsing the forum, I can almost assume one of the mounts has split) ... and the wife doesn't like the bits of vibration she notices.
I can't wait for her to purr like a kitten ... and feel how she is supposed to after a full tune up.
Edit: Where is a good tint shop? The place in town has a horrible parking lot (connected to a busy gas station, very small parking lot), wanted about $200 and 4 hours to do it, and only had one line of tint (plain, in 4 strengths, 5, 20, 35, 50), in the past, I've paid (in FL) $120 for a car with more windows/glass area (with curved back glass similar to 8), and they used special 3M heat reflective film (much higher heat blocking than this guy's tint sample claims) and had it done in under an hour.
I just think the cost is too high, the parking lot is high risk ... and 4 hours sounds like an over-estimate for joy riding to me. I know the back window will be a pain in the ***, but still, not a 4 hour job for a professional, and not that expensive for generic tint. I'll ride by a stealership later and see if their person will give a better rate, last time I checked on them for my previous car before I sold it, the guy broke his arm and couldn't do it for a few months
Thank you for previous and future help, info, and advice
I'll be looking up Randy @ Triple R soon. I want a professional familiar with the car to give her a good inspection so I can plan for things that may need to be replaced in the near future, and work out a long term reliability and power goal (simple upgrades, not looking for 300 rwhp or anything :p).
I need the ignition done now. I don't like that loss of power >6/7k rpm that started just before the started died. I know I can't get to the plugs myself (apartments have rules about not working on cars on their premises :'( ), so will probably let Randy do coils, plugs, wires, as well as my current oil change, diff, and trans fluid changes. Might have the motor mounts done as well (from browsing the forum, I can almost assume one of the mounts has split) ... and the wife doesn't like the bits of vibration she notices.
I can't wait for her to purr like a kitten ... and feel how she is supposed to after a full tune up.
Edit: Where is a good tint shop? The place in town has a horrible parking lot (connected to a busy gas station, very small parking lot), wanted about $200 and 4 hours to do it, and only had one line of tint (plain, in 4 strengths, 5, 20, 35, 50), in the past, I've paid (in FL) $120 for a car with more windows/glass area (with curved back glass similar to 8), and they used special 3M heat reflective film (much higher heat blocking than this guy's tint sample claims) and had it done in under an hour.
I just think the cost is too high, the parking lot is high risk ... and 4 hours sounds like an over-estimate for joy riding to me. I know the back window will be a pain in the ***, but still, not a 4 hour job for a professional, and not that expensive for generic tint. I'll ride by a stealership later and see if their person will give a better rate, last time I checked on them for my previous car before I sold it, the guy broke his arm and couldn't do it for a few months

Thank you for previous and future help, info, and advice
Last edited by Cookie Monster; Aug 3, 2012 at 11:56 AM.
Cookie monster, while I understand your issue with space to perfomance maintence and support Randy 100%, you can, and should do the plugs, wires and coils yourself. It's an easy project that you could do in a friends driveway in half hour, maybe an hour if you're drinking.
I've also got a good set of coils i'm not using if you want them.
As for the oil changes (diff, trans and son on) randy would be a very good source as he has a lift and resonable rates.
Get at me if you want the coils or randys number.
I've also got a good set of coils i'm not using if you want them.
As for the oil changes (diff, trans and son on) randy would be a very good source as he has a lift and resonable rates.
Get at me if you want the coils or randys number.
damn i didn't notice your reply I'll have to pass thanks tho I was looking for some MS skirts I picked some up but not happy with the condition when i got them so i might in the market again soon
Milwaukee WI
2004 Velocity Red 6 spd
Turbo
Any of you fellow Midwesterners know a good place to have a turbo rebuilt and balanced. Locally would be nice but sending it out would be ok too.
Thanks. Zoom Zoom
2004 Velocity Red 6 spd
Turbo
Any of you fellow Midwesterners know a good place to have a turbo rebuilt and balanced. Locally would be nice but sending it out would be ok too.
Thanks. Zoom Zoom





