Nevermind Jeff!, i used IE instead and refreshed again, finally saw today's date as newer date, uploaded to the car successfully this time.

 

I'll check, but I think I'm still scheduled to be breathing around then, so I should be able to do it.

Cool.

 

Awesome, thanks a lot Jeff. I will check with you closer to the day so you can have a clearer image of your schedule. If you cant do it, Im gonna drive my Tahoe since its 10 times more comfortable!!

 

Hi jeff,

I got "received" on nov 16th, but haven't seen anything yet...

Thanks

 

Me too, got a "Received" reply on 30th nov, and still waiting for my very first V4.0.1 map.

Generally how long do Jeff takes to provide his first tune upon receiving the AP ?

Cheers

 

Jeff,

You gonna give us all the christmas present of a tune just like you did for thanksgiving? :fingers crossed:

 

Jeff, or anyone that can answer this question? My cooling fans are coming on at 185 degrees like they should with MM's calibration..but does anyone know what the criteria is for them shutting off? they are coming on at 185 but staying on even when the temp goes back down to 180.

Does the car have to get back down to 175 or something before they will shut off?

Thanks!

 

Hi Jeff,

What would be the impact of not masking the P0037 DTC? Based on my recent experience it would have helped me to understand that I had a bad sensor and replace it earlier in the emissions testing process. I had to uninstall the AP to find out I actually had a sensor problem.

What are your thoughts on that?

 

P0037 is the rear O2 sensor. If the DTC is turned off, the sensor has no impact on the emissions readiness.

The OE fan off hysteresis is 37°F or a minimum temp of 176°, whichever comes first.
On the MM calibrations, since the base turn-on temp is 27° below OE temps, the hysteresis is 5°F or a minimum temp of 180°, whichever comes first.

 

Thanks Jeff

 

NP. At what temp are your fans turning off?

 

I never hear my fans come on.. i'm just that cool

 

Well I hope for my sake that's incorrect. If I pass the plug in test tomorrow we'll know for sure. That was one of the two sensors that were "not ready" and I couldn't get to set.

 

Actually not sure..is why I asked but I'll take your word for it. My car runs pretty cool with the weather we're having right now. I think the thermo is staying closed to compensate but it usually runs right at 180-183 by itself..but if i start driving hard it hits about 187-190 and I hear the one fan kick in at 185..but when I pull up to the house it's still running at 180..I was just curious if it should have shut off by then. No sweat.

The only problem i have so far has nothing to do with programming..the secondary shutter valve closest to the battery gets stuck in the winter and it seems much weaker than the other one behind hit. Last winter it got stuck in the closed position and I had to work with it to unfreeze it. Not sure if it was condensation in the air intake that froze when it got cold or if it's just gummed up..and they are expensive to replace.

I knew it was stuck cuz my car wasn't giving that extra "kick" at around 4200-4500 rpms that it usually does and knew something was wrong. popped the hood and it was stuck closed. You know anyone that has had to replace one?

 

I passed the emissions check this morning.

I figure since the sensor was bad when I uninstalled and re-installed the AP originally it could not set the readiness monitor. That sounds like correct behavior from the PCM's Point of View. Once the dealer replaced the sensor I easily set the readiness monitor with 3 cold start to warm up drive cycles. Then easily passed the test.

It may be helpful for people if this code is unmasked so they know if they have a bad sensor or not. Others may end up in the same edge case as me and not know they have a bad sensor until they uninstall the AP.

 

I mask it because most people don't run a CAT.
If you need to know if it is set, just uninstall the AP.

 

Yeah. From your texts that sounded like the rub. It's unfortunate that not having a Cat. causes the same error as a bad sensor. That's two different things that Mazda should have separated.

So the lesson is: You can get your car emissions tested with the AP installed.

If you fail due to not having your readiness monitors set: uninstall the AP, and check to see if you have any CELs for bad sensors that may be masked by the AP. If you do replace/repair the sensors and run 3 cold start to warm drive cycles and attempt the emissions test again.

 

Well, no. Most people cannot. Only vehicles that are essentially stock can get away with that.
Furthermore, if you have no hardware failures, there is no reason to uninstall the AP.
If you do have hardware failures, they should be addressed before masking them.

 

So will my car pass emission with the ap installed? its stock besides the turbo.

 

Good clarification.

In my case I had a hardware failure some time after installing the AP (back in Jan.) Then when I uninstalled, before my first test in Dec., the CEL appeared. After posting up here and reading that I should be fine with the AP installed I re-installed it.

Once I re-installed the AP the CEL went away so I thought it would be fine since I figured the AP was masking the issue. That ended up not being the case and I subsequently could not set the readiness monitors because of the hardware failure. And to boot I didn't have a code to read with the AP because it was being masked.

So it wasn't until I uninstalled the AP and then checked the CEL code that was then generated with a code reader at O'Reilly's that I was able to determine the real problem was a bad sensor, get it fixed, and pass the test.

 

Or, you can just leave it installed and put the "stock-style" calibration in and read the codes.

 

OHHH! Thanks for the info. I didn't realize stock style didn't have the codes masked. It makes sense though. Learn something new every day.

Does switching maps clear readiness monitors and require resetting them or just uninstalling?

 

Yeah, reflashing sets everything back to off/neutral.

FWIW, it takes more than 3 cycles for my car to become "emissions compliant" after a reflash in this colder weather.

 

Thanks.

Well I know I only put in 3 drive cycles before the test.
1)Drive home from dealer on Thursday.
2)Drive to store to get milk and bread on Friday evening.
3)Put a few miles on it on the highway on the way to emissions testing.

The dealer may have put one in as well but he told me not to count it just so I couldn't hold him accountable for anything. So it could have been 4 cycles. :P

I did perform the idle and highway drive cycle this morning in the OBDII readiness thread but that was all one cold start to warm cycle. Maybe that had something to do with it.

Anyway thanks for all your help on this and clarifying the AP with emissions testing. Hopefully this will be helpful to others when it comes time to emissions test.

 

ummm... there is only one SSV
Unless you are talking about the APV (which has two valves), but those are connected to the same linkage.

Don't want to hijack Jeff's thread, but there are a couple recent threads on this topic.
Even how to remove and clean the valve.