New MazdaManiac BASE Calibrations
#2401
Did that, erased it off the AP ,the manager software and off my desktop first,,hit f5 and downloaded it again to desktop..put it on the AP, plug into car and still says locked to other serial number. Does it matter which browser I'm using or is there something else that can keep it from refreshing correctly?
Nevermind Jeff!, i used IE instead and refreshed again, finally saw today's date as newer date, uploaded to the car successfully this time.
#2403
Bad Ass
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: Kyle, Tx
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Awesome, thanks a lot Jeff. I will check with you closer to the day so you can have a clearer image of your schedule. If you cant do it, Im gonna drive my Tahoe since its 10 times more comfortable!!
#2405
Me too, got a "Received" reply on 30th nov, and still waiting for my very first V4.0.1 map.
Generally how long do Jeff takes to provide his first tune upon receiving the AP ?
Cheers
Generally how long do Jeff takes to provide his first tune upon receiving the AP ?
Cheers
#2407
Jeff, or anyone that can answer this question? My cooling fans are coming on at 185 degrees like they should with MM's calibration..but does anyone know what the criteria is for them shutting off? they are coming on at 185 but staying on even when the temp goes back down to 180.
Does the car have to get back down to 175 or something before they will shut off?
Thanks!
Does the car have to get back down to 175 or something before they will shut off?
Thanks!
#2408
Power!!
Hi Jeff,
What would be the impact of not masking the P0037 DTC? Based on my recent experience it would have helped me to understand that I had a bad sensor and replace it earlier in the emissions testing process. I had to uninstall the AP to find out I actually had a sensor problem.
What are your thoughts on that?
What would be the impact of not masking the P0037 DTC? Based on my recent experience it would have helped me to understand that I had a bad sensor and replace it earlier in the emissions testing process. I had to uninstall the AP to find out I actually had a sensor problem.
What are your thoughts on that?
#2409
P0037 is the rear O2 sensor. If the DTC is turned off, the sensor has no impact on the emissions readiness.
The OE fan off hysteresis is 37°F or a minimum temp of 176°, whichever comes first.
On the MM calibrations, since the base turn-on temp is 27° below OE temps, the hysteresis is 5°F or a minimum temp of 180°, whichever comes first.
The OE fan off hysteresis is 37°F or a minimum temp of 176°, whichever comes first.
On the MM calibrations, since the base turn-on temp is 27° below OE temps, the hysteresis is 5°F or a minimum temp of 180°, whichever comes first.
#2413
Power!!
Well I hope for my sake that's incorrect. If I pass the plug in test tomorrow we'll know for sure. That was one of the two sensors that were "not ready" and I couldn't get to set.
#2414
Actually not sure..is why I asked but I'll take your word for it. My car runs pretty cool with the weather we're having right now. I think the thermo is staying closed to compensate but it usually runs right at 180-183 by itself..but if i start driving hard it hits about 187-190 and I hear the one fan kick in at 185..but when I pull up to the house it's still running at 180..I was just curious if it should have shut off by then. No sweat.
The only problem i have so far has nothing to do with programming..the secondary shutter valve closest to the battery gets stuck in the winter and it seems much weaker than the other one behind hit. Last winter it got stuck in the closed position and I had to work with it to unfreeze it. Not sure if it was condensation in the air intake that froze when it got cold or if it's just gummed up..and they are expensive to replace.
I knew it was stuck cuz my car wasn't giving that extra "kick" at around 4200-4500 rpms that it usually does and knew something was wrong. popped the hood and it was stuck closed. You know anyone that has had to replace one?
The only problem i have so far has nothing to do with programming..the secondary shutter valve closest to the battery gets stuck in the winter and it seems much weaker than the other one behind hit. Last winter it got stuck in the closed position and I had to work with it to unfreeze it. Not sure if it was condensation in the air intake that froze when it got cold or if it's just gummed up..and they are expensive to replace.
I knew it was stuck cuz my car wasn't giving that extra "kick" at around 4200-4500 rpms that it usually does and knew something was wrong. popped the hood and it was stuck closed. You know anyone that has had to replace one?
#2415
Power!!
I figure since the sensor was bad when I uninstalled and re-installed the AP originally it could not set the readiness monitor. That sounds like correct behavior from the PCM's Point of View. Once the dealer replaced the sensor I easily set the readiness monitor with 3 cold start to warm up drive cycles. Then easily passed the test.
It may be helpful for people if this code is unmasked so they know if they have a bad sensor or not. Others may end up in the same edge case as me and not know they have a bad sensor until they uninstall the AP.
#2417
Power!!
So the lesson is: You can get your car emissions tested with the AP installed.
If you fail due to not having your readiness monitors set: uninstall the AP, and check to see if you have any CELs for bad sensors that may be masked by the AP. If you do replace/repair the sensors and run 3 cold start to warm drive cycles and attempt the emissions test again.
#2418
Furthermore, if you have no hardware failures, there is no reason to uninstall the AP.
If you do have hardware failures, they should be addressed before masking them.
#2419
So will my car pass emission with the ap installed? its stock besides the turbo.
#2420
Power!!
In my case I had a hardware failure some time after installing the AP (back in Jan.) Then when I uninstalled, before my first test in Dec., the CEL appeared. After posting up here and reading that I should be fine with the AP installed I re-installed it.
Once I re-installed the AP the CEL went away so I thought it would be fine since I figured the AP was masking the issue. That ended up not being the case and I subsequently could not set the readiness monitors because of the hardware failure. And to boot I didn't have a code to read with the AP because it was being masked.
So it wasn't until I uninstalled the AP and then checked the CEL code that was then generated with a code reader at O'Reilly's that I was able to determine the real problem was a bad sensor, get it fixed, and pass the test.
#2422
Power!!
Does switching maps clear readiness monitors and require resetting them or just uninstalling?
#2424
Power!!
Well I know I only put in 3 drive cycles before the test.
1)Drive home from dealer on Thursday.
2)Drive to store to get milk and bread on Friday evening.
3)Put a few miles on it on the highway on the way to emissions testing.
The dealer may have put one in as well but he told me not to count it just so I couldn't hold him accountable for anything. So it could have been 4 cycles. :P
I did perform the idle and highway drive cycle this morning in the OBDII readiness thread but that was all one cold start to warm cycle. Maybe that had something to do with it.
Anyway thanks for all your help on this and clarifying the AP with emissions testing. Hopefully this will be helpful to others when it comes time to emissions test.
#2425
Grasshopper
iTrader: (1)
Unless you are talking about the APV (which has two valves), but those are connected to the same linkage.
Don't want to hijack Jeff's thread, but there are a couple recent threads on this topic.
Even how to remove and clean the valve.
Last edited by Jon316G; 01-03-2010 at 11:48 AM.