At least someone knows valuable stuff when they see it.

 

Mysql: you're such a tease!

Ngo: you better call me when you get yours. We've got some testing to do...

 

Will mine be GREEN? It's being delivered on St. Patricks Day!

 

so once I (well if i buy it =/ ) find the right stage 1 or stage 2 flash for my car, i can switch between those stage 1 and stage 2 flashes and it will always be the correct flash right? (assuming nothing else on my car changes).

 

I was refering to how tampa is on the west coast of Florida.

 

They're not after your maps, they're after your avatars.

 

You will, most likely, just find the one that you like and stick with it.
Its like a "scramble boost" setting on a boost controller.
Once you believe that your car is safe at a particular level of boost, you end up just leaving it there.

Those are up there, too! I didn't think of that!

 

OK, I ripped out the batt from my other car, used it to boost my batt voltages and uninstalled then reinstalled the accessport.

The car had -20 stft and was stalling, so I used Jeff's 5b map and the car started to run normally. It might stand to get another -10 on the stft but I am not sure. It was at 0 while cruising for a while.

Now, I have a temporary 3" MAF tube, and the tube might not be exactly 3". When I go into boost, the moment it goes to 0 psi, the AFR goes to 10 (lowest the UEGO reads) and if I keep on it, it starts to stumble from being too rich.

I can deal with that since I'll be replacing it with a nice 3.5" maf housing shortly.

The real problem right now is the synchronic BOV. It's a wonderful BOV and never has any compressor surge, but even with the anti-stall valve in place, if I'm at -12 PSI and let off the throttle, it will release what little air that was in there and the car stumbles because of it.

If I had a normal BOV like the type-R/S, Tidal, etc. I'm sure it would be ok since those tend to need positive PSI to activate. The synchronic is by far the best BOV I've owned, and with a MAP system like the int-x, it's fine. But the MAF is too sensitive to be messed with while cruising.

I'm going to measure the recirculate fitting on the BOV and the recirculate bung on the intake tube and find a reducer so I can recirculate. I hate to lose the PSSSSST sound, but I'd rather the car drive nicely.

 

Long story short, the car drives nicely when not in boost. In boost it's too rich with the current settings, and the BOV is screwing with me a bit when letting off the throttle while cruising. None of these are faulted by the AP or Jeff, but rather my car in it's current state isn't ideal.

I can say that the map adjustments to take into consideration my 380/380/730 injectors worked well though. Car starts up instantly, no excess exhaust fumes, etc.

 

The AP itself is a nice unit. Very small, very light. It came boxed well.

The screen is easy to read, and easy to navigate. It only shows one sensor at a time, so it wouldn't be useful to replace a scangauge2 if you have one.

The only problem I have with the AP is that once I shut off the car, the AP still stays on. And if I start up the car again, the AP does not read anything from the vehicle. So I turn off the car, then it back to ACC (but don't start the engine) and the AP tells me communication error. So I end up unplugging everything, plugging it back in, turn the car back to ACC and it sometimes starts to register. But sometimes it doesn't.

I would like for the AP to be able to read from the odb2 connection like the scangauge2 does. No weird communication errors once in a while. Once the AP connects properly, it seems to stay connected properly till I turn the key to OFF. So not too big of a deal, just a headache when I ran into the store and came back and couldn't get it to show me the STFT.


Finally...
The USB cord has a mini usb connector on one side and a standard usb connector on the other. The connection to the AP wiggles a bit, which doesn't inspire confidence in a "secure connection" to the vehicle, but I wiggled it around while reading STFT and it didn't seem to bother it.

 

Let me know if that is still the case with 3_5b.
Probably should take a caliper to your MAF tube and fid out what the true diameter is.
Its probably bigger thn 3" by some tiny fraction.
Everything counts!

The AP behaves like a regular USB device.
Since the PCM always has power but doesn't always have data, it doesn't know what has happened when you switch it off.
I usually take it out of live data mode when I turn the engine off so it will "find" the PCM again when I go back to live data mode.
That said, the dongle does seem to be a bit finicky.
I have to unplug it and replug it sometimes.
I think its a USB thing, not really the AP itself.

 

Yeah, i don't want anyone to think I dislike the AP. I'm just describing what I found out about it in the 20 min drive I took.

The AP without a doubt works - I just need to get a properly sized maf, recirculate my BOV and then I'm ready to rock and roll!


I'm not sure if it matters, but the AP takes 15 secs to boot up. So I'm plugging in the AP, it's booting up, and I turn the key to ACC.

 

It does matter.
The PCM isn't active until the key is turned to "on".

 

ok, that might be why. I'll make sure the car is in ACC before plugging it in.

 

No. It will be drunk and roudy.

 

Hey Jeff, are you getting my PM's?

I sent a few PM's and got no reply so I am thinking there might be something wrong.

 

I'll check.
I'm dealing with 50 - 70 e-mails a day at this point!
I don't really check PMs.

 

MazdaManiac,
Does the Accessport allow for fuel and timing adjustments from the unit itself without the software?
I plan on carrying the Accessport at my shop and noticed the tuning software was $1500.
To me it seems like anyone that runs a turbo would need to get the Accessport tuned to really take advantage of it. I know on RX-7's which I tune all the time that guessing on a map for a specific car is not very accurate.

Thanks
Jason

 

MM forget my question on the tune as I read your first post about it

 

Since I know everyone is going to be wondering what kind of stuff the AP can do and what kind of odb2 sensors are available, I made a short little video that shows you what you'll get.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=TFhJSUjw9OE

The video is processing now, so might not be available for a few minutes.

 

btw, ap screen doesn't flicker - video cameras pick up flicker when pointed at monitors.

 

Your battery is back! haha

 

yeah. haha. I drove for about 10 miles total. Voltage was good enough to allow me to reflash the PCM after 5 miles. Then 5 mile trip back home.

 

looks pretty slick

 

its taking UPS until the 19th to reach me here in eastern bumblefuck... they really need turbo's on the brown trucks