Also, will the STFT and LTFT's on the car settle to the same place with enough drive cycles regardless of how hard the car is driven over the course of the drive cycles? (say someone does a lot of light cruising as opposed to someone doing many WOT runs)

 

I know they have tuned at least one car. That is if you are referring to P&L.

 

When I get the AP I would ideally like to see the following

WOT: low 13's never above 13.5
Cruising partial throttle: low to mid 15's
Cruising mid throttle: high 14's low 15's

Although none of this is concrete considering the load the car is experiencing at any given time.

 

Can I trouble someone for the AP's refresh rate of the data capture of a "live" event, like equivalence?

 

mid 6's with the traction control light blinking and telling me my dumbass forgot to turn it off

i had like a 2.5 60 foot time from it

 

If i unplug my battery the flash still stays correct?

 

Yes, and you need to read your load with the A/F.

You are reading too much into the AF. AF will vary with load and you need to know the load.

 

MM,

So am I OK with the reading's I'm getting? Map in use is 1b_0
AFR of 11.2-11.8 at WOT, and AFR's of 12.5-13.5 at light throttle above 5500 RPM, Idle AFR at 15.2. Cruising bellow 5K saw AFR of 14.7, but when I get on the gas lightly and work my way to redline the AFR's drop to mid 12.5-13.5. STFT was at -1 and LTFT at -2. What's my next step if these #'s are good? Do I go to 1b_2b due to the combined STFT and LTFT of -3 or do I just drive this map for a bit longer?

 

Those are fine.
Please read the "Tuner" thread.

 

anyone????

 

They will constantly adjust and often in completely unpredictable ways.
It is, for your purposes, completely meaningless.
We only care about the STFT in the first couple of minutes after a reflash and the LTFT after a day or so.
Then, you needn't look at them again.

BTW - I am on the road for the next 12 days, so I will be very slow to respond to stuff. Sorry.

 

so MM since my LTFT has been at 4 for a while now, i should just follow your instructions and move to the next appropriate map correct?

And if a LTFT of 4 is negligible, will you give me the stage 2 maps if i shoot you an email?

thanks for the help, sorry if i'm getting annoying =D

 

MM: When do you expect your next shipment of APs?

 

Based on prior reading of this thread, LTFT of 4 likely falls within the nominal range for this type of fine-tuning.

 

If your at +4 after a week or so of driving, move up 2 maps and you will be at 0... this isn't hard people

 

12 days? Yikes!

Will you be making ap tunes during that time?

 

MM,

Thanks, the only reason I asked is that in your instructions on the first post you mention high load AFR of 13's not low 11's. Your the expert so I will stay at this map for another day then go to 1b_2b. Just for clarification you also mention to contact you if I'm running to rich or to lean. Lean I know is above 15 but what do you consider to rich?

 

Razz1,

I looked at the engine load and it said 38% while in third gear at 5800rpm, AFR read 11.9-12.3 during this. I'm assuming this is normal since MM said my #'s look good. The only reason I was questioning my #'s was because I was under the impression our goal was to see mid 13's at WOT.

 

Also, for anyone with four seasons, if one had homed in a map during colder season, is it reasonable to say that we'd have to back off to a less aggressive map for the summer?

 

This is how my stock car afr looked:



Your goal should be 12 AFR, maybe 13 if you want to push it.

 

So if I understand this correctly, for optimal performance with minimal risk we want to be in the mid 12 to mid 13's at WOT or high load? If so what does 11.2 at WOT do for performance since that is where I'm at? Being that my LTFT is -2 I will be moving to the 1b_2b map which removes 2% fuel, so is it safe to assume that my AFR will increase a bit from what I'm at now? Man this tuning stuff is complicated but fun.

 

The first post in this thread says:

The trim stuff is for initial fuel trims so the car isn't off by much when it's reset. The stage1, stage2, stage3, etc type stuff is what adds or leans your fuel.

 

Ok, but what is to rich?

 

Too rich is when your engine chokes on fuel and you cant accelerate.

 

FUNNY