Thanx, from what the owner said, it has the mm orig tune and his motors adjusted tunes, but I should be fine with the orig tune? Plus I need to clear the mil for the rear o2. Ill try it now, just don't wanna fry an ecm like I've recently read

 

Which can I use... stage1?
Mm 2004 mt na base usdm v4_0_3
Mm 2004 mt na base v4_0
Mm 2004 mt na base v4_0_1
Mm 2004 mt na base v4_0_2
Mm 2004 mt na usdm v4_0_4
Stage1 mtv100
Stock style mode mtv100

 

Stock Style mode

 

What mods do you have? You could use the stage 1 provided by Cobb if you match the requirements. You won't be able to use any of the MM tunes as they are made for the previous owner and may not match your setup.

 

I thought the base tune from mm was okay, but I read in one of mm's posts, that 4_0 had been freezing up and having issues.
I also read that these base tunes from cobb and mm are rich tunes. I got the AP so I could clear the mil light for my rear o2, and so that I wouldn't eat so much fuel.
I'm running catless, single rb resonator, rb race exhaust(single exit). Its loud as f**k. And its been getting louder ( my guess because all the flames and backfiring destroying the insides)
So I've been holding off on a new dual exhaust till I leaned the car out a bit.
I know there's mixed opinions on rear o2 affecting fuel, but I think it must be affecting my fuel trim.
Steel braided clutchline, new slave and master, duralast clutch(pressure plate seems not as strong fyi)

 

Python, was the Cobb AP "unmarried" from the previous vehicle ?

 

Well MMs basic tune is just a "refined" stock map so it won't be much different than the stock map. As long as you running with the stock intake you can run with cobbs stage 1 map. That would do more for you than MMs base map. Cobb also have other maps you can download (Economy, valet, and anti theft). If you want more info try the Cobb forums.

 

With all the mods you have you will be best off getting a custom tune. The stock stage 1 map won't be as beneficial and you will get a lot more power out of a custom tune. But it does cost $300 from MM. You could always learn to tune yourself but there could be some serious problems if you end up messing it up because you don't know what pure doing so I wouldn't recommend that.

Im running a careless midpipe as well and I haven't checked yet but I feel like it shots on my mpg so I use economy mode when I'm just casually driving to get better mpg. I also drop it into neutral a lot earlier when I'm coming up to stops just to get better mileage. Probably not much of a difference but.

 

Since you already have a good bit of upgrades I would recommend getting an aftermarket intake so you can get a stage 2 tune instead of just a stage 1 tune as well. But you can always do stage 1 first then decide if you want to go intake and sage 2

 

Hold the phone?
Stage 2 Tune?!?!?!?!?!?


So if I understand this you are saying that a Stage 2 tune is what happens when you have an after-market Intake?

Please ... enlighten me on your definition of Stage 1 and Stage 2, Stage 3 ....

 

Last time I checked Cobb only has a stage 1 map for our car....

 

lol im not a huge pro on tuning but from what i understand you need a few basic upgrades for a stage 2. and yess cobb only offers a stage 1 but you can get a custom tune to go up the stages.

from my perception which probably isnt exactly right:

stage 1- stock car or sme upgrades - but i believe you cannot run stage one with an aftermarket intake.

stage 2- upgrades plus atleast an intake. not really sure what all the upgrades are or anything.

stage 3- turbo.

thats my understanding but again like i said i am just getting into the tuning deal

 

not really sure how much it differs from car to car or tuner to tuner but my friend that has a jetta gli has stage 2 maps and only has an intake.

 

I'm kinda dissapointed with some of the forum members. Several said that a used cobb even for 400 is a good price, which is bs, the thing is nearly useless with the mm package.
My advice is always buy new, 600 bux and you're all set, or you could get f**ked and get a used one, with useless tunes, end up having to spend 300 extra just to safely used it, grand total 675 and only a used cobb. Okay done venting...

So I put the stage on tune on it and I'm watching the afr, it doesn't seem any faster but it is idling at 14.6(cold) to 15.1(hot) depending on engine temp. Idk anything about stoich other than 14.7 is ideal.
In gear 0% tps I get 20.3
Wot I've seen down to 11.4
But its normally between 14.2 to 15.4 while normal...well moderate driving.
Normal driving is 4k to 7k, 3rd 4th 5th, 20min commute squeezing into a 15min dress lol

 

Aaaahhhh ok
I don't know **** about the Stage 1 2 3 naming scheme but that makes sense.
Whether its right or not LOL but I'll buy it.


What ... what .. wait .. huh .... umm mmmmm ok where to start?
First it sounds like you did get confused on the Cobb AP and its uses.
I thought everybody knew that the Stage 1 tune from Cobb was useless and in some cases dangerous to use. (depending on Intake)

When the Cobb AP first came on the market it was the only way to get all that lovely live data from your ECU. Since then an application called Torque has come out which allows your Android phone to view and log the data.

If all you want to do is look at data and log this would be a better way to go.

Now if you are interested in creating your own tune or getting MM to tune your car then you need the Cobb. Unfortunately you didn't do enough research to understand that MM's tuning service and custom tunes are non-transferable.

Poop happens.

Now about your AFR questions.
You put Stage One tune on and it doesn't seem any faster ... I assume you mean the car not the AFR's

Idle AFR's -- 14.6 to 15.1 afr at idle is ok. In colder climes this maybe as low as 12 .. there is a table that adjusts the Warm-up idle afr

In gear 0% tps .. not sure what you mean by this but I'm guessing .... you are off throttle or 0% Throttle Position ... when you take your foot off the throttle the ECU cuts fuel to the engine and the AFR's will hit 20.4
This is totally normal

WOT afr of 11.4 for a NA car is quite rich ... 13.2 ~ 13.8 (IIRC) is rich best torque to lean best torque.

 

it has been said several times by many members on here and other places that the AP is one of the best upgrades you can get for your car. If you are mad about buying a used one then you should have done the research beforehand. but regardless with a tune you will not be dissapointed, if you dont want to pay $300 then try to find a local tune shop but you might not get the quality and experience of MM. plus a downside i considered was that it will take MM a while to tune it for you. he always seems to be extremely busy.

 

I'm interested in this torque app, ill have to look into it (the cobb works with it?) Ya it tough using search on the mobile version of the forum, but I thought I had done enough research. Unless you know someone that can tune for you at a decent price, or you know how to map yourself, id recommend the new one. The tunes on it, both mm base and stage1 are not safe if you don't know how to adjust, and I still haven't figured out how to clear the mil light, guess ill have to download the software. Thanx for the responses

 

You could probably find a beginning tuner or a semi experienced tuner around here that would tune it for you for a small fee or maybe for free. But then again they won't be as experienced as MM and could mess it up. Try to find someone that tunes their own car and has some experience and see if he would help you out.

 

Enough said

 

After my first custom calibration, tried the dyno app on the AP and got a staggering 535whp and 325 torque! what a good job you did MM!

 

Bad idea, you dont want someone learning to tune a renises on your motor. You will get poor results while risking the motor. Besides no one tunes for less then $300 and you get what you pay for.

 

lol i did like 250 rwhp and 242 rwtq stock haha...doesnt seem to work for anyone

 

i installed my cobb yesterday after watching mm video on his site. i dont think he put his base map on my ap. i thought it was shipped with it. the only options are stock, stage 1, economy, valet. did i miss something?

 

^You have to go to mazdamaniac dot com, select your year of car, then it should ask for a password.
Type in the password jeff would have emailed to you when you ordered the AP. Then, you load it into you AP Manager, load it to your AP. then reflash your PCM

 

read the instructions!