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Right, stupid question but just wanted to know what needs replacing. All my gears work but the clutch is the problem.. It is impossible to stall the car, the car doesn't move unless I Rev it to 8000 rpm and then it finally crawls. Do I need a clutch kit or is there a cheaper option that needs to be replaced? Would appreciate any sort of reply, also if you have the time my email address is aaronstride@gmail.com for any personal replies. Thanks for the advice in advance
Clutch kit. You want the OEM one. Definitely don't get the Exedy Stage 1, there are QA problems with it. There is actually a viable clutch kit for sale right now for cheap in a Bubbletech auction thread here: Bubbletech Fundraising Auction - RX8Club.com
+1 on getting a "kit" that typically includes the clutch disc and pressure plate. If you have a shop do it, they MAY also recommend changing the OEM pilot bearing and OEM throw-out or "clutch release" bearing. I would also agree with that. The latter aren't terribly expensive and you wouldn't want to pay labor to drop the transmission a second time a few weeks/months later if they go bad.
Every Clutch Kit for the RX-8 includes the release bearing and pilot bearing. Most also include the pilot bearing seal.
I stand corrected. Forgot we were talking RX8. The last clutch 'set' I bought was the ACT SS for the RX7. It came with a pilot shaft, but the Release and Pilot bearings...along with a rear transmission seal had to be purchased separately.
Sorry for any added confusion but regardless, the "kit" is the way to go for reasons stated previously.
Hello, I am new here, and I have a very dumb question:
Is there an oil pan gasket?
I have my first rotary engine car. 04 RX-8 6 speed. The guy I got it from was the only owner. He bought it new off the lot with his mother co-signing a loan (he was only 18 and still in high school at the time) It is in mint condition, except for running.
My husband is a very versed piston mechanic but had never worked on a rotary before. We intended to do a full rebuild. It would be a very educational experience for us both (I did most everything that I was physically capable, including the grinding of the side seals and assembly of the apex pieces).
We were advised to pay very close attention to Aaron Cake's Cosmo rebuild on YouTube. I also purchased a shop manual cd with all the specs and exploded photos (my husband speaks car, I just have tiny hands that can get into the tight spots).
The learning curve has been very valuable and very expensive. I have bought almost all of my rebuild parts from Atkins Rotary, but can't seem to locate a gasket for the oil pan. I went back onto the Atkins website and they don't seem to sell one for my year car. They sell one for every year of RX-7 and for a 20B engine.
I will continue my research until I find the answer. I will go back to the spec cd to see if I can find one in the exploded parts pictures.
Logic says: Of course there is an Oil pan gasket. Any answers are welcome, as is helpful constructive criticism. (I have read a lot of "if you don't know you shouldn't be touching anything" and I am telling you nobody learned anything without getting dirty and making a few mistakes).
Angie, there is no gasket, you're supposed to use RTV sealant. Just get the pan and the surfaces it mounts to very clean and follow directions on the RTV. You don't want to redo that job once it's full of oil.
Originally Posted by wefield920
Hello, I am new here, and I have a very dumb question:
Is there an oil pan gasket?
I have my first rotary engine car. 04 RX-8 6 speed. The guy I got it from was the only owner. He bought it new off the lot with his mother co-signing a loan (he was only 18 and still in high school at the time) It is in mint condition, except for running.
My husband is a very versed piston mechanic but had never worked on a rotary before. We intended to do a full rebuild. It would be a very educational experience for us both (I did most everything that I was physically capable, including the grinding of the side seals and assembly of the apex pieces).
We were advised to pay very close attention to Aaron Cake's Cosmo rebuild on YouTube. I also purchased a shop manual cd with all the specs and exploded photos (my husband speaks car, I just have tiny hands that can get into the tight spots).
The learning curve has been very valuable and very expensive. I have bought almost all of my rebuild parts from Atkins Rotary, but can't seem to locate a gasket for the oil pan. I went back onto the Atkins website and they don't seem to sell one for my year car. They sell one for every year of RX-7 and for a 20B engine.
I will continue my research until I find the answer. I will go back to the spec cd to see if I can find one in the exploded parts pictures.
Logic says: Of course there is an Oil pan gasket. Any answers are welcome, as is helpful constructive criticism. (I have read a lot of "if you don't know you shouldn't be touching anything" and I am telling you nobody learned anything without getting dirty and making a few mistakes).
Yes, be careful how you apply it.
I've never done it, but from reading here, excess sealant from the oil pan is one of the more common reasons rebuilds fail.
Good luck!
Excess sealant getting into the coolant stream is the more common one, which isn't something the oil pan is exposed to. However, yes, excess sealant on the oil pan could still cause problems, like blocking the oil pickup.
The couple that rebuilds engines together ... stays together. Your husband is lucky.
Excess sealant getting into the coolant stream is the more common one, which isn't something the oil pan is exposed to. However, yes, excess sealant on the oil pan could still cause problems, like blocking the oil pickup.
The couple that rebuilds engines together ... stays together. Your husband is lucky.
I'm looking for some help with the wiring at the left front of the car. Junior took a turn a little too wide and ripped the front bumper cover and left oil cooler off the car. It's back together but I have a few stray wires at the front of the driver's side wheel well. Headlamp, driving lights, and side marker are accounted for and connected. I have three wires from the headlamp leveling sensor that are dangling with no connector. I have two wires on the body harness side with with no connector. I have a three wire connector on the body harness side but the wire colors don't match the leveler sensor wires. And last, a female spade connector on the harness side with no insulation on it. Short of buying an expensive manual with a wiring diagram, does anyone have a diagram or photo of this area or knowledge of what wires and connectors go where?
Thank you so much to Loki, DoubleBlack8, Big Cajun and RIWWP for your replies, they were very much appreciated. I looked into the shop cd and after chasing down "oil pan assembly note #01-10-47" It said use sealant. Tony put it all together before I got home from work so I didn't get to supervise. Which I'm sure was his plan. Lol
And to RIWWP, Tony says you only think that he is a lucky guy because you don't live with me. Lol!
Anyway, the journey continues. Thanks again -Angie-
I'm looking for some help with the wiring at the left front of the car. Junior took a turn a little too wide and ripped the front bumper cover and left oil cooler off the car. It's back together but I have a few stray wires at the front of the driver's side wheel well. Headlamp, driving lights, and side marker are accounted for and connected. I have three wires from the headlamp leveling sensor that are dangling with no connector. I have two wires on the body harness side with with no connector. I have a three wire connector on the body harness side but the wire colors don't match the leveler sensor wires. And last, a female spade connector on the harness side with no insulation on it. Short of buying an expensive manual with a wiring diagram, does anyone have a diagram or photo of this area or knowledge of what wires and connectors go where?
Mike, if you can get me the colors of all the wires you haven't identified, i can get you what they are. I have access to the dealer network interactive color wiring diagrams. Not something I can directly share, but I can get them identified for you.
I'd need the base color with the stripe color for each wire, with which ones are groupped together would help too.
Originally Posted by wefield920
Anyway, the journey continues. Thanks again -Angie-
NP
Originally Posted by wefield920
And to RIWWP, Tony says you only think that he is a lucky guy because you don't live with me. Lol!
Most guys would put up with a hell of a lot to have the woman they love join them in their passions. Don't underestimate it.
Hello gentlmen. 6 speed AT here. So I put my car in neutral and revved it to clear the carbon. It went up to 6500rpm and hit what felt like a rev limiter. Freaked out. Let go of the pedal. Floored it again. Same thing. Let go. Did it again. This time it went all the way to 7800rpm.
Hello gentlmen. 6 speed AT here. So I put my car in neutral and revved it to clear the carbon.
Well don't do that because it's useless and stupid.
Either you were revving it cold and hitting the cold start moving Rev limit, or something is wrong. I'm willing to bet it was the first one since you were just revving for revvings sake but you can check the car for clogs/glowing if you don't think it was that.
Well don't do that because it's useless and stupid.
Either you were revving it cold and hitting the cold start moving Rev limit, or something is wrong. I'm willing to bet it was the first one since you were just revving for revvings sake but you can check the car for clogs/glowing if you don't think it was that.
No. Car was warmed up. Gutted cat. Didn't sound like a clog. It sounded like it was bouncing off a rev limiter. On the 3rd time, it revved all the way to 7800rpm.
You want to rev it while there's a load on it, ie it's in gear.
No. Car was warmed up. Gutted cat. Didn't sound like a clog. It sounded like it was bouncing off a rev limiter. On the 3rd time, it revved all the way to 7800rpm.
Yeah, sounds like you hit the cold rev limiter. I don't know about the first generation cars, but on mine, the rev limiter is at 5,000 rpm below 40C (104F) and at 7,000 rpm from 40C to 70C (158F). By the time it's able to rev to the full 9,000 rpm, the gauge needle is pretty well at the middle, so you may have thought it was warm when it wasn't quite warm enough. Does it not have the gauge to tell you what the speed limiter is at?
I've been searching and came up with one being a Leveler Sensor Short Harness. I'll be able to pick that up with Red, Yellow and Black wires. I'm now down to three wires, a Red and a Blue, and then a single Black jacketed wire with no insulation over the female end terminal.
You want to rev it while there's a load on it, ie it's in gear.
Yeah, sounds like you hit the cold rev limiter. I don't know about the first generation cars, but on mine, the rev limiter is at 5,000 rpm below 40C (104F) and at 7,000 rpm from 40C to 70C (158F). By the time it's able to rev to the full 9,000 rpm, the gauge needle is pretty well at the middle, so you may have thought it was warm when it wasn't quite warm enough. Does it not have the gauge to tell you what the speed limiter is at?
No. Car was warmed up. The temp gauge was reading 208F. S1s dont have a moving rev limiter. If I rev it after say 3 seconds, it revs all the way to 7800rpm. This has only happened to me like 3 times. Pretty messed up huh :P
No. Car was warmed up. The temp gauge was reading 208F. S1s dont have a moving rev limiter. If I rev it after say 3 seconds, it revs all the way to 7800rpm. This has only happened to me like 3 times. Pretty messed up huh :P
Some (all?) S1s have it, it's just not nearly as obvious as the one on the SIIs. In theory it's limited to 5k at lower than 20C.
Is the temprature on whatever gauge you have reading correctly? What gauge is it?
04-12-2015, 04:08 PM
Your husband is lucky.
