Newbie & Friction Point
#1
Newbie & Friction Point
I recently took an 8 out on a test drive and i found getting into 1st gear was giving me a lot of problems.
I used to drive a VW golf and with that i learned basically to use the clutch as the accelerator.
These are the 3 methods i have so far picked up on in these forums so far to get the 8 going smoothly.
1. I would be at a stop, and slowly bring the clutch up until i could feel the car move forward a bit. Then let go of the brake and the clutch evenly at the same time then start to put on the gas. Essentially using the friction point to accelerate forward and use the gas.
2. I was also told to apply some gas and rev the engine up to like 2500-3k then slowly release the clutch while still adding some gas to get the car going would help.
3. I also heard that as i slowly release the clutch, i would see the rpm slowly dipping, at which point i should start to add some gas and continue to release the clutch slowly
I was wondering which of these 3 methods is the "right" way to drive the 8 or is it a matter of preference??
I used to drive a VW golf and with that i learned basically to use the clutch as the accelerator.
These are the 3 methods i have so far picked up on in these forums so far to get the 8 going smoothly.
1. I would be at a stop, and slowly bring the clutch up until i could feel the car move forward a bit. Then let go of the brake and the clutch evenly at the same time then start to put on the gas. Essentially using the friction point to accelerate forward and use the gas.
2. I was also told to apply some gas and rev the engine up to like 2500-3k then slowly release the clutch while still adding some gas to get the car going would help.
3. I also heard that as i slowly release the clutch, i would see the rpm slowly dipping, at which point i should start to add some gas and continue to release the clutch slowly
I was wondering which of these 3 methods is the "right" way to drive the 8 or is it a matter of preference??
#2
Registered
None of those are really right. You step on the gas as you let the clutch up. Don't think of clutch and gas as separate entities. Just like when you walk, you don't think of using your right leg, then your left.
In normal driving, the clutch should start biting when you're not too much above idle. Your foot should be off the clutch well before the 2500-3000 rpm you say in #2.
Don't linger, slipping the clutch. That will wear it out prematurely.
Ken
In normal driving, the clutch should start biting when you're not too much above idle. Your foot should be off the clutch well before the 2500-3000 rpm you say in #2.
Don't linger, slipping the clutch. That will wear it out prematurely.
Ken
#4
I was just doing some more reading through the forums regarding how to handle MT better and wanted to clarify one thing.
On a flat surface, there is a "friction point" with the 8 right? Where i would just use the clutch to move the car forward without any gas?
On a hilly/slope surface (thats where i was pulling the car out of today), as i release the clutch, i need to add gas in order to maintain/increase the RPM so i move forward or dont roll back?
Otherwise if i dont add gas and just use the clutch, the RPM will drop and thus cause the car to stall right?
Does that make sense?
Im pretty new to driving manual...
On a flat surface, there is a "friction point" with the 8 right? Where i would just use the clutch to move the car forward without any gas?
On a hilly/slope surface (thats where i was pulling the car out of today), as i release the clutch, i need to add gas in order to maintain/increase the RPM so i move forward or dont roll back?
Otherwise if i dont add gas and just use the clutch, the RPM will drop and thus cause the car to stall right?
Does that make sense?
Im pretty new to driving manual...
#5
Surf Hard, Drive Hard
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Indialantic, Florida
Posts: 7,840
Likes: 0
Received 12 Likes
on
9 Posts
I was just doing some more reading through the forums regarding how to handle MT better and wanted to clarify one thing.
On a flat surface, there is a "friction point" with the 8 right? Where i would just use the clutch to move the car forward without any gas?
On a hilly/slope surface (thats where i was pulling the car out of today), as i release the clutch, i need to add gas in order to maintain/increase the RPM so i move forward or dont roll back?
Otherwise if i dont add gas and just use the clutch, the RPM will drop and thus cause the car to stall right?
Does that make sense?
Im pretty new to driving manual...
On a flat surface, there is a "friction point" with the 8 right? Where i would just use the clutch to move the car forward without any gas?
On a hilly/slope surface (thats where i was pulling the car out of today), as i release the clutch, i need to add gas in order to maintain/increase the RPM so i move forward or dont roll back?
Otherwise if i dont add gas and just use the clutch, the RPM will drop and thus cause the car to stall right?
Does that make sense?
Im pretty new to driving manual...
Listen to what Ken has already said.
You are most likely gonna give it a little gas as you let out the clutch, on a hill it will be just a little bit more. BTW.....as was also said............#3 while not exact was the best of the three you described and #2 was the worst, I would agree with mysql101
#6
Registered
On a hilly/slope surface (thats where i was pulling the car out of today), as i release the clutch, i need to add gas in order to maintain/increase the RPM so i move forward or dont roll back?
Learning to start on a hill, witout rolling back, is probably the hardest thing about learning to drive stick. Taking your right foot off the brake to work the gas, while the left is working the clutch, is almost like cutting a life line but grabbing a handhold before you fall.
As a beginner, use the hand brake to hold the car when you're starting on a hill. Work the gas and clutch like you were on level ground. You'll need more gas because you're going uphill, but you're still doing the same balance/transition between gas and clutch. Release the hand brake as soon as you feel the clutch start to grab.
After you've got the hang of it, you won't need the hand brake.
Ken
#9
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Raleigh
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Very True. You dont need to look at the RPM meter to engage the gears. As u learn to drive the manual better, you do it as a conditional reflex. Its 30 minutes job for somebody to show it to you in person, atleast a week/2 weeks job for you to master it.
#13
Registered
Simple solution:
You need to get comfortable using the clutch first.
Practice going back and forth 20 ft or so using only the clutch and idle (no throttle) on a flat surface. Do this about 50 times or until you can comfortably do it without stalling the engine.
Then repeat by using a bit of throttle to speed up the launch.
This is, from my experience, the fastest way to become comfortable with the clutch.
You need to get comfortable using the clutch first.
Practice going back and forth 20 ft or so using only the clutch and idle (no throttle) on a flat surface. Do this about 50 times or until you can comfortably do it without stalling the engine.
Then repeat by using a bit of throttle to speed up the launch.
This is, from my experience, the fastest way to become comfortable with the clutch.
#20
Has the whole shit.
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 1,772
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
...And make sure to start off in reverse.
Anyway, on a serious note, you're making the whole manual transmission thing harder than it needs to be. Don't think about it so much, just do it, it's actually quite easy once it all "clicks."
Also, you're simply not going to be smooth until you get lots of seat time under your belt, it just comes with experience. You can't just say "how can I be smooth?" since there's no real concrete technique to it, it just happens. For now, just work on starting without stalling and you'll be driving flawlessly before you know it.
(oh, and if it makes you feel any better, I've been driving stick for seven years and I still have some days where I couldn't shift smoothly to save my life)
Anyway, on a serious note, you're making the whole manual transmission thing harder than it needs to be. Don't think about it so much, just do it, it's actually quite easy once it all "clicks."
Also, you're simply not going to be smooth until you get lots of seat time under your belt, it just comes with experience. You can't just say "how can I be smooth?" since there's no real concrete technique to it, it just happens. For now, just work on starting without stalling and you'll be driving flawlessly before you know it.
(oh, and if it makes you feel any better, I've been driving stick for seven years and I still have some days where I couldn't shift smoothly to save my life)
Last edited by Rhawb; 09-22-2007 at 12:47 PM.
#21
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Raleigh
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
...And make sure to start off in reverse.
Anyway, on a serious note, you're making the whole manual transmission thing harder than it needs to be. Don't think about it so much, just do it, it's actually quite easy once it all "clicks."
Also, you're simply not going to be smooth until you get lots of seat time under your belt, it just comes with experience. You can't just say "how can I be smooth?" since there's no real concrete technique to it, it just happens. For now, just work on starting without stalling and you'll be driving flawlessly before you know it.
(oh, and if it makes you feel any better, I've been driving stick for seven years and I still have some days where I couldn't shift smoothly to save my life)
Anyway, on a serious note, you're making the whole manual transmission thing harder than it needs to be. Don't think about it so much, just do it, it's actually quite easy once it all "clicks."
Also, you're simply not going to be smooth until you get lots of seat time under your belt, it just comes with experience. You can't just say "how can I be smooth?" since there's no real concrete technique to it, it just happens. For now, just work on starting without stalling and you'll be driving flawlessly before you know it.
(oh, and if it makes you feel any better, I've been driving stick for seven years and I still have some days where I couldn't shift smoothly to save my life)
Overall its not hard.
#22
Registered
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Glendale, AZ
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I really don't like to smell burning clutch. . .
Generally, I use #3.
Getting used to the feel of any MT is, of course, a learning experience. Its different for different cars but using method #3 is what I've used for the past 14 years.
Keep practicing and you'll get the hang of it. You'll learn to be able to use the clutch/gas fast enough where hills aren't a problem. When I first started driving, I always feared rolling backwards too much (and did it a couple of times so resorted to the e-brake method). Just keep practicing, don't give up and go AT and in a couple of months you'll be doing great. I used to be AT all the way but now will only drive MT because of the added control you have over the car in cornering and acceleration. I've been driving MT for 14 years and won't ever buy a personal car that's AT again.
Cheers!
#23
The clutch engagement is fussy because it has to withstand 9000 rpm shifts without mush.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post