cliffkemp

My car will not do anything. It used to start after trying several times. Thought it was the fuel pump or clogged filter and was not.

Later found out that, it was the pressure switch combined with the throttle body but, would start and run decent after warming up by feathering the throttle and keeping it running by pushing on the throttle slightly til warm.

The switch would not open the throttle til you pressed the accelerator about 1/3 of the way down and the butterfly would move after that point. No movement til then.

The last time I tried to start it, the battery was low so, I swapped the battery after trying to jump it off. When I put a newer battery in, the car went into "someone is stealing me" mode and will do nothing. I put the key in the ignition and nothing on starting.

The gauges swoop the whole way and then back but, no start or turn over or nothing.

What can be done to tell the computer that I have the correct key as, I cannot lock the car or open the trunk remotely. The key lights up as, I have the switchblade key. The extra key would not do anything, either. Is there a procedure to relearn the keys and get it out of this mode and back to where I can try to start it? I am trying something by taking all the fuses out with the cpu and disconnecting the battery for a day and keep the fuses out.

Is there a proven way to 'reset' the whole system or, am I going to have to have it towed to a dealer? I want to get it back running as, everything works and the car is in decent shape with good heat and air and is usually dependable til all this junk started happening.

gwilliams6

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...t-here-222584/

Starting the Engine• Starter• Battery• Engine Compression• Grounding Wires• Ignition Coils• Spark Plugs• Spark Plug Wires• Fuel Pump• Fuel Injectors

cliffkemp

Starter is good.
Battery is new and an optima 1000 cca.
Compression is good.
Grounding wires are good and connected to clean surface.
Coils are almost new.
Plugs are almost new as are the wires and are magnecores 8.5.
Checked fuel pump and cleaned filter and is good.
It ran fine when warmed up.

It is in 'stolen' mode at the moment and want to get it out as, it will do nothing as of right now.

I know what is wrong with the car but, being in the mode it is now, I cannot get it to even turn over cause everything is disabled. Is there any procedure that can be done, without going to the dealer, to get it reset. Simply hitting the unlock button or turning the ignition to on did not do it.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Is the immobilizer light flashing?

Doesn't sound to me like you are getting proper power to the system. Have you checked the fuses and the battery terminals and wires to make sure you are getting current?

Loki

iTrader: (1)

You could program the remote entry/trunk by yourself if you had one known good key.
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f87SMT6bDNQ]

It's extremely unusual that the car would "forget" its keys. That info is not stored in volatile memory. My car spends 5 months of the year without a battery in it and everything works when you plug it back in. I'm more inclined to think there is a fuse or other electrical issue, as mentioned above.

cliffkemp

All the fuses, that I have checked are good. I have checked the ones under the hood and the ones in the kick panel on the driver's side. Unless there are more somewhere, those are all good.

The immobilizer light is not flashing and, I tried the key program on youtube. I did notice that, the overhead light is not coming on, even with the switch position on door. This would explain, according to the vid, why the key re-program is not going to work yet. It could be that, the door switch went bad and the system does not know that the door is shut or open.

To be honest, I cannot remember if I shut the door to the car when I put another battery in and, it would be a coincidence that the switch went out at that moment and is possible. I may have to just get it towed but, that will be a 300 dollar bill from the start as, I only trust one place to work on it and, they are in Marietta and, I am in Carrollton so, it will be about a 60 mile or so, tow. This car is becoming an electrical nightmare.

cliffkemp

I bought the car new in 06. It did good until around 50k or so miles. There was a wire that, either came loose or something that grounded and killed the fuse box later on. Mazda fixed it under warranty and 3 days later, the fuse box went out completely and left me stranded both times. Mazda fixed it by replacing the entire fuse box.

At 76k miles, the car started throwing codes and shutting down. It said that just about everything was going bad and had just replaced the original engine at 69k miles. I reset the codes and it started right up and drove for a while and did the same thing from time to time. I just reset the codes and got between 200 miles and 4k miles before it would throw random codes.

At just over 100k miles, it stopped throwing codes and drove fine til this stuff here lately. As of now, I know that the pressure switch in the accelerator pedal is not working correctly or the throttle body motor is not receiving correctly cause it will not up til 1/3 throttle.

Now, it will not start or even turn over after I swapped batteries due to slow cranking. I put an optima in it that was almost new. It went into stolen mode as the windshield wipers came on and the horn came on. I turned the key and did not reset it. It will not do anything now. The key works and all the fuses and all are good. Battery is good, and everything that I think it can be is good.

I do not know what else to do but, I am sure it will be over 1000 dollars to fix it and not too happy about that at the moment....

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Wipers and horn came on on their own? Are you sure the battery wasn't plugged in backwards? Totally hear you on the electrical nightmare part, but think the immobilizer /stolen mode is the wrong thing to focus on. Whatever nuked your fusebox could still be in play, go over the main wiring harness for visible damage. If the ceiling lamp isn't getting power, your ECU might not be getting any either. Start checking continuity of various basic circuits with a multimeter. Electrical problems suck, but if you're methodical, you can trace the culprit.

Fuses are one thing, but you also have a few relays in the main fuse box. Those could be responsible.