and with a boost controller can i raise boost with tha cat on or no?

i removed the dongle...much better...
still driveability issues...especially backfiring and transition bogging.
looking forward to downloading a better map.
good call on the dongle jeff...thanks

So what problems does removing the dongle solve? Today is the big day as soon as I get home this afternoon I will be ordering my Greddy Turbo, I already have my BOV and E-01 because I found a really good deal on them earlier. So soon I will be a part of the FI club!

So what problems does removing the dongle solve? Today is the big day as soon as I get home this afternoon I will be ordering my Greddy Turbo, I already have my BOV and E-01 because I found a really good deal on them earlier. So soon I will be a part of the FI club!
not everyone has had the probs i had but for me i had terrible driveability problems. jerkiness and harsh transitions btwn boost and vacume, and other related probs. could be the software tuning and combo of previous mods such as my hi flow cat. anyway, i de-dongled per jeff and although i am still getting alot of backfire from the rich programming in the greddy map, the car is much smoother and more driveabe. i will download jeffs latest map soon and play aroiund with the BOV some more.
you will need to play with the maps because imo greddy did not do their homework...they just keep copying jefff.
jon appearantly kept his dongle (lucky guy!) and simply re mapped with great success. good luck on your instal and follow the order in the instructions...especially around the manifold, motor mount steps. out of order violations will cost you hours and hours of "fun" as i can attest to!:o

cool, thanks Rudy8. I assume we have the codes for the emanage to tune it? Do we need it if we have the E-01?

The E-Manage MAP shouldn't affect the boost numbers at all unless the engine is simply putting out WAY less power and, therefore, exhaust. This would be bad and unlikely.

The E-Manage has no provision for boost control.

Well, I'm definitely losing boost somehow.
I just did a testrun of 1st-4th WOT and I'm only getting 5psi peak (34KPa) and 3psi avg (20KPa). I recorded it on the boost gauge and filmed it. Here's the short video (2MB) (http://www.cox-internet.com/adrian-1/images/RX8/greddy/low%20boost.wmv) You can see it only reaches 5psi for a second then it's down to 3psi for the rest of the run.

I recently switched out the spark plugs and switched the leading ones with mazda's redesigned ones to help with hard starts and got the same trailing model. Also, Greddy recently updated my emanage map. Other than these two things, I haven't changed anything on my setup. I was consistently getting 7psi peak (48KPa) and 5psi avg when the turbo was first put on.

I'm going to switch back to the stock plugs today and test. I'll also check for leaks at all the tube connections. Anyone have any ideas what the problem could be?

Well, I'm definitely losing boost somehow.
I just did a testrun of 1st-4th WOT and I'm only getting 5psi peak (34KPa) and 3psi avg (20KPa). I recorded it on the boost gauge and filmed it. Here's the short video (2MB) (http://www.cox-internet.com/adrian-1/images/RX8/greddy/low%20boost.wmv) You can see it only reaches 5psi for a second then it's down to 3psi for the rest of the run.

I recently switched out the spark plugs and switched the leading ones with mazda's redesigned ones to help with hard starts and got the same trailing model. Also, Greddy recently updated my emanage map. Other than these two things, I haven't changed anything on my setup. I was consistently getting 7psi peak (48KPa) and 5psi avg when the turbo was first put on.

I'm going to switch back to the stock plugs today and test. I'll also check for leaks at all the tube connections. Anyone have any ideas what the problem could be?

That is exactly what mine was doing before I had the boost controller installed (Profec EO-1) and had it dyno tuned.

Pull your dongle (use lotion if you prefer) and load this MAP.

Life will be good.

Pull your dongle (use lotion if you prefer) and load this MAP.

Life will be good.

I'll try that, I'm waiting for my emanage support tool to come in.
I'll check a few pages back to see what to disconnect and what a dongle does.

Can someone please tell my wat this DONGLE IS its drivin me nutz

Can someone please tell my wat this DONGLE IS its drivin me nutz

It's part of the wiring harness that comes with the Greddy kit. Look about 2 or 3 pages back and MazdaManiac posted a picture of it



Also, I am not quite sure why my car is running fine with the dongle. I'm not having any issues at all. It's strange.

It's part of the wiring harness that comes with the Greddy kit. Look about 2 or 3 pages back and MazdaManiac posted a picture of it



Also, I am not quite sure why my car is running fine with the dongle. I'm not having any issues at all. It's strange.
i dont know jon...there seems to be alot of uncertainty as to what to do. others have started new threads to cut down on revfiewing this whole thread for answers, but everyone keeps coming back here. were all afraid of a new thread!:eek:

here is an idea. why dont YOU start a new thread and call it greddy problems and solutions or something. since you have the credibility of mass readership, maybe we can cut down on the clutter. i for one am having continued problems and would like a SUMMARY OF EVERYTHING you and others have done that worked. i hate to keep pm-ing you guys with nit pickey questions youre tired of answering, but coiuld really use a summarization of your system.

andy

i dont know jon...there seems to be alot of uncertainty as to what to do. others have started new threads to cut down on revfiewing this whole thread for answers, but everyone keeps coming back here. were all afraid of a new thread!:eek:

here is an idea. why dont YOU start a new thread and call it greddy problems and solutions or something. since you have the credibility of mass readership, maybe we can cut down on the clutter. i for one am having continued problems and would like a SUMMARY OF EVERYTHING you and others have done that worked. i hate to keep pm-ing you guys with nit pickey questions youre tired of answering, but coiuld really use a summarization of your system.

andy


I'll talk to one of the mods to see if I can make a sticky post with the frequently asked questions about the greddy turbo kit. I'd probably ask them to lock it out so nobody would post there. That way all the frequently asked questions would be right there and you guys wouldn't have to search 100 pages of this thread for one answer that's probably been asked before. I'll work on that tomorrow.

Mazda maniac,
I'm removing the dongle now. Just to check, will the white/pink wire circled in the picture be left disconnected? It was connected to the vtec wire. Wondering if I read your instructions correctly. thanks,

Yeah, just pull that one and leave it.

great.
thanks
I'll talk to one of the mods to see if I can make a sticky post with the frequently asked questions about the greddy turbo kit. I'd probably ask them to lock it out so nobody would post there. That way all the frequently asked questions would be right there and you guys wouldn't have to search 100 pages of this thread for one answer that's probably been asked before. I'll work on that tomorrow.

Yeah, just pull that one and leave it.

Would just zeroing out the VTEC map do the same thing as removing it?

Would just zeroing out the VTEC map do the same thing as removing it?
It might, but part of the problem seems to be the box itself changing the impedance on the temp sender circuit.

Well I finally got around to ordering a new O2 sensor today. The 10 foot monster flame that shot out of my exhaust after my deflooding (while installing the turbo) fried it. :o

I call the Mazda dealer down the street and ask for the parts department ... I say I have an '04 RX-8 and need a price for a new O2 sensor. The first question I get is "Is that for the 4 cylinder or the 6?" -- dumbfounded I say that it is for the 2 rotor. After an akward pause -- I get "OK ..... so .... ummm ... you said an '04? ..... Oh I see it ..... we do make those again! .... WOW".

I am thinking to myself -- Holy Sh$t -- the parts guy doesn't even freaking know and the car has been out for a year and a half :eek:

Well -- he finally quotes me $305 :eek: :eek:

Thank You MazMart -- got one coming for -- $100 :)

Interesting. Which O2 sensor - front or rear?
I shoot flames all the time and mine are fine. Don't forget, the flames don't happen until the mix hits the tailpipe. The gas in the exhaust is still uncombusted as it passes the O2 sensors. It needs to mix with outside air to pop.

$300 or so is the list price on the rear sensor. The front lists around $600.
I got a replacement rear (the original was cross-thread in thte CAT, so I left it in place when I installed the mid-pipe) from Gaithersburg Mazda for $108.

I stripped my upstream O2 befor the cat and i have been waiting from mazda to get it ... they are charging me 195 $ but it was supposed to be here tuesday then wensday ... then it was the wrong one thursday so i supposed to be getting it today .... we will see i hope so i miss my car ....

Shane

It is the sensor before the cat. I just got an autoenginuity scanner and confirmed the CEL was a blown O2 sensor (bank 1 - the pre-cat sensor). This CEL came on right after the big flameshooting incident so I assume that was the culprit.

p.s. - the autoenginuity unit is a blast! Just learning how to use it. I got the Bluetooth version so it is really easy to hookup and use with the laptop.

I want to get some data off the rolling dyno features this weekend. I also want to get some data off my buddy's 350Z (intake and exhaust mods) for comparision -- should be interesting.

Looking forward to hearing about what you learn from the data.

CRH

Okay guys. I am starting to get Secondary Air Pump CEL's. It's random and comes and goes. Does anyone know how to spoof the ECU into thinking the airpump is working fine? I personally don't care about emissions, so I"m about to just rip the air pump out. It'll save some weight :)

Well, you would need to provide a full-lean signal from the second O2 sensor for about 30 seconds every time you start the car cold.
You could probably make a simple timed circuit that grounds the signal lead from the O2 sensor for 30 seconds when the signal output to the air pump is active.
Even a simple relay should work, though I would probably use a 100 ohm resistor to ground so that there is still a little signal output.

2 philodox: For the last 2 months i have the same problem. I go to dealership and they clear the air pump CEL. After first cold start CEL pops out. I dont have Turbo installed, maybe it is the problem in the air pump. Dealership still didnt change my air pump or checked enything, they say its a problem in K&N intake, but i had intake installed couple of months before without no problems. That is the only engine mod on my car. Did anyone else had the same problem? Or does any one know how to fix it.

btw, i am getting Greddy turbo installed in a couple of weeks so i would like to fix the problem before i install it.

Well i got my O2 sensor ... the car was running great no bog smooth transactions and very smooth ..... The only problem we did not install the catch can ..... and i had oil shoting out of the BOV and went every where ....... SO i dont know i will install the catch can tommarow and let you know ....... I called JIM from the place that pilo had his install done and he said ..... My AEM wideband was accurate .... idle at 15-16 cruise 13-15 and at WOT 11-13 sooooo just letting you all know

Shane

Do you need a catch can to have a BOV, I have never seen that before.

The crankcase ventilation system relies on engine vacuum to keep things under control. When using boost it upsets the ventilation system so a catch can needs to be used to remedy the above-mentioned situation.

CRH

I got the new RX8 map from benny over at Greddy. It needs you to update the Greddy Support Tool software as well. He sent everything to me, but when I try to downlod it here, the two updates for the Greddy Support tool are too large & the updated map is not recognized. When he sent it to my hotmail (& I would assume Yahoo too) address it would not let me download it or forward it as Hotmail thinks it is a virus. I had him send it too me at an alternate address. Shoot me a PM if you need me to send it to you (has to be an email account where you can disable the anti-virus) or depending on if anybody is intereted I can burn a CD & send it to you. Probably better than having us all harass Benny sending it over the web & half the time we can't even extract it.

Here is my last MAP again, for those that want an intellectual excersise - it is the same as the current Greddy MAP, only with ignition timing (the turbo kit is not wired for this, so they deleted it), no "VTEC" because I don't use the open-loop fooler module and shift-surge fueling suppression (I don't know why they deleted this - it works).

I know they sell the ignition and injector harnesses for the EManage. How big a deal would it be to hook those up to the unit that comes with the kit?

Fanman i have PM YOU :)

cheers
michael

I know they sell the ignition and injector harnesses for the EManage. How big a deal would it be to hook those up to the unit that comes with the kit? Well, the injector harness is already part of the kit. Only the ignition harness is not.
It would be fairly easy since the kit comes with a harness adapter.

You can download the Support Tool update here:

http://www.mazdamaniac.com/downloads/emanage/greddy%20emanage%20update.zip

I am putting on my high flow cat... i had straight pipe no cat , to try to help with the smoking ... when i start the car up its smokes alot for about 30seconds .... when i am driving it doesnt smoke much at all wheh i come to a stop it smokes a little ... is that normal ????? last night the BOV sprayed oil all over the engine and there was alot in the piping ...so i think some of the smoke is from the oil burning up ..... i put the catchcan on so i am having no problems with the oil this far .... also my car the CEL goes off .... then it will come on and some times blink i cant find the post of why it does that can someone please tell me i forgot .... thanks


Shane

The smoking on cold start-up is normal. It is a type of "choke" setting along with the raised idle speed. That's why the air injector pump runs for 30 seconds after start-up; to burn the extrat fuel AND to help heat up the cat quickly.

If you have removed your cat, you'll get a persistent CEL because the PCM is telling you the cat is not functioning.

CRH

Jeff, should I stay on top of these new maps you have, under the notion that they will also work well with my upcoming nitrous boost increases? Remember, all I really need to do is control the ignition curve. Fine-tuning the factory maps is just an option as the car is already pretty quick with the N.

CRH

CRH .... I have the CEL sometimes sometimes its gone and sometimes it blinks ..... Why does it do everything ???? v
thanks
shane

Shane, I hate to come into the advice-giving game on your car so late so p.m. me a list of mods you have and I'll tell you what I know about them. If you have already been over this with MM/Abrams, whatever he told you is as good or probably better than what I would have to offer. I would still like to help, if you think I may be able to, but I don't want to just tell you what you have already been offered from others. There are two or three people who help me with my stuff and if you have already talked to them you have already talked to the proper Maniacs, Gods, and whatever.

Talk to you then,
CRH

Jeff, should I stay on top of these new maps you have, under the notion that they will also work well with my upcoming nitrous boost increases? Remember, all I really need to do is control the ignition curve. Fine-tuning the factory maps is just an option as the car is already pretty quick with the N.

CRH
No. The MAPS for turbo are going to be quite different from what you will need for nitrous.
Since you are running a wet kit, I'll assume that your A/Fs are OK.
The ignition timing MAP is based on boost, so you will never get into that range while spraying.

Mazdamaniac, and CRH, wats my best bet for getting my boost up, CAT is back on and car runs smooth as hell, but dropped almost 3psi once i took out the Bonez Midpipe, with the midpipe on, the car was runnin shitty,choppy, and lean at high rpms, but it was a monster when u got on her, Im lookin for some good advice and i kno u guyz can help me, my previous 7.7 lbs of boost an 268rwhp, is down to 5lbs and prob like 240hp, Plain a simple i need more power, also i still have second dongle on, should i remove it and would i benefit? car also has newest map from Greddy.

Ya know as I logged off after asking that question and went back to finishing some stuff on my car I realized how dumb of a question it was, and for the reason(s) you stated. My mere asking went contrary to my objective with this nitrous project and that is to have two well-running situations. One without nitrous and the other one with. The only difference will be the ignition curve because I am using a wet system so, yes the A/F ratios will be correct. I am pretty happy with the way the N flash has my car running and if I can use the E-Man to clean up some A/F's that would be a bonus but not mandatory. So really, I will only be using the E-Man to control ignition timing and we still don't know what the optimum will be until we get there.

Thanks for your patience during these moments of mental vapor lock, Jeff.

CRH

Does anyone have any of the kits in stock?

Well.... I put my cat on and the car runs GREAT couldnt run any better not much backfire . BUT at WOT the car runs A/F on the AEM wideband 10-13 and then it goes right to 16-17 then back to 14-15 ..... sound good right ?? let me know thanks

Shane

RX8FAN01..

Where did you tap for sensor for your A/F sensor? .... Your in REALLLY dangerous A/F levels.... If your installing a MID PIPE w/ the turbo kit you should be TUNING ........before driving the car hard at all. Obviously the car will feel great (translation faster) because your running more boost... but the maps are not tuned yet

Also, if your CEL is blinking.. it is a CRITICAL error....meaning get your car off the road..something is DESPERATELY WRONG!!

Also, if your CEL is blinking.. it is a CRITICAL error....meaning get your car off the road..something is DESPERATELY WRONG!!

I was told by numerous mechanics and dealership mechanics that the blinking CEL in the RX-8 indicates that you are either destroying your catalytic converter, or are killing your emmisions. Maybe I was told wrong.

The owner's manual should have the answer to the blinking CEL question. I'd check, but I'm in Kentucky and my car's in Florida.

I was told by numerous mechanics and dealership mechanics that the blinking CEL in the RX-8 indicates that you are either destroying your catalytic converter, or are killing your emmisions. Maybe I was told wrong.

check engine light comes on when conditions are met that can raise the emissions to 1.5 times federal test procedure.

flashing check engine light comes on anytime conditions are met that might damage the catalytic converter.

this isn't specific to mazdas or rotaries, it's generic obd2 stuff. :)

Well, I order mine form Thew at Mazdaparts.com over the weekend, I can't wait to get it!

Well. it seems i only get the blinking CEL for 15 seconds and thats under boost .... I have not drove my car hard AT ALL since the install ..... I put the A/F sensor after the cat . next to the factory one . i also still have my air pump on the car so i think im not getting 100% accurate A/F reading . My car is running great so i dont think anything is wrong but i could be wrong . seems that everyone that runs into problems the car is running a bit choppy and breaking up alot mine is doing none of that . The only thing that its does everyonce in a while when i bring it home and let it ideal for a min befor shutting it off it seems to load up and when i start it back up it smokes for about 30 Seconds i talked to JIM the guy who installed Philo's turbo kit and he says everyhting is fine . and sounds like everything is good even the A/F b.c i still ahve the air pumo on .... I dont know though im not a mechanic



HYbrid-RX-8 i put the highflow cat back on it before i was just running no cat or resanator ...

I Also spoke with benny and he told me that the A/F on my car the way it is running is fine . thats how it is supposed to be . so i dunno

Whenever a WIDEBAND o2 is being used...... it should ALWAYS be put before the cat...... or you will get inaccurate readings.

that could be part of my problem then ???? i also have a little problem i have a catchcan but oil seems to spray under the hood ... ??? i think philo had the same problem for a while but i can find out how he fixed it

What size catchcan do you suggest I get?

that could be part of my problem then ???? i also have a little problem i have a catchcan but oil seems to spray under the hood ... ??? i think philo had the same problem for a while but i can find out how he fixed it

It was due to water freezing in the catchcan entrance tube since it was hooked up incorrectly.
He posted his problem here. (http://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php?p=710539&postcount=1155)
The fix is here. (http://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php?p=712378&postcount=1197)

It was due to water freezing in the catchcan entrance tube since it was hooked up incorrectly.
He posted his problem here. (http://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php?p=710539&postcount=1155)
The fix is here. (http://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php?p=712378&postcount=1197)

so the catch can doesn't solve the oil coming from the BOV? So do I need a catch can?

so the catch can doesn't solve the oil coming from the BOV? So do I need a catch can?

You don't really NEED a catchcan. It's just a safety measure.
If you hook it up wrong and the temperature outside drops to below freezing, the water can freeze inside the hose and then you'll experience what philo did.

Also, you can get one from thew at rx8garage.net for $100. Get the 9mm hose, the 15mm hose is too big , although you can get it to fit.

adrain-1 what do you think the oil comeing through the BOV is from ??? its all over the intake and underneath the hood ???

You don't really NEED a catchcan. It's just a safety measure.
If you hook it up wrong and the temperature outside drops to below freezing, the water can freeze inside the hose and then you'll experience what philo did.

Also, you can get one from thew at rx8garage.net for $100. Get the 9mm hose, the 15mm hose is too big , although you can get it to fit.

so what's it's purpose? will oil shoot out my BOV if I don't have one?

adrain-1 what do you think the oil comeing through the BOV is from ??? its all over the intake and underneath the hood ???

I do not know. With a catchcan, oil shouldn't be able to reach the intake/ intake pipe.

so what's it's purpose? will oil shoot out my BOV if I don't have one?

check this thread. (http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=55173)

I do not know. With a catchcan, oil shouldn't be able to reach the intake/ intake pipe.



check this thread. (http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=55173)

Cool, thanks Adrian-1, I am going to order mine tonight.

Yea horse i got my catch can at new freedom performance for 75 shipped and it was next day ...

are the stock tubes that came with the greddy catchcan the right diameter or should i chage out?

are the stock tubes that came with the greddy catchcan the right diameter or should i chage out?



Yea but you have to get the 9mm hoses they are the right ones .... I also figured out why my CEL blinks under boost .... It is said to be b/c the mazda CPU is trying to override the greddy CPU but it cant so it thinks there is something major wrong but its not and it cant over ride the piggy back system .... THey said not to worry about it ....

anyone know why i may be getting oil spraying out of my BOV everyonce in awhile ???? its seems odd it doesnt happen all the time and its just a little . Wondering if anyone had the same problem . Also i have 100 miles on the car now with the greddy turbo when iget into iti can smell the exhaust alot normal ???

Shane

i wouldn't worry about it my car isn't turbo and i think i am smelling my exhaust or something else a lot too lol.

Shane, I am beginning to wonder if you have a new problem because you had to mess with the exhaust lately; have you checked to see that your exhaust system is/was not leaking? I am thinking that with the boost issues you had and the problem you now mention that the turbo, where it mounts on the manifold, may be leaking.

Just a thought.

CRH

is there anyone out there running a hi flow cat with the greddy turbo, successfully?
mine was basically "undriveable" until i put my stock cat back on.
is there a different map you can use that will help the turbo run better with the hi flow cat?

Current opinion seems to be that a high flow cat is not compatible with the default greddy map. You have to tune the map and that requires an unlocked version and tuning knowledge.
________
MAGIC FLIGHT (http://mflbvaporizer.com)

At first i had no cat straight pipe and it ran great . But i was pulling alot of boost so ... I decided to go with High-flow cat and it runs great and still same amount of boost ... So i will just leave it alone
Shane

At first i had no cat straight pipe and it ran great . But i was pulling alot of boost so ... I decided to go with High-flow cat and it runs great and still same amount of boost ... So i will just leave it alone
Shane

which map are you runniing on?

well i have been super zoom zoomed for two days and all i can say is wow. so i stoped to get gas cause i only got 180 mile to a tank and when pulling into the statiopn i go over the area where the tanks are in the graound and the lid pops out and rips the right exhaust guard off the car.. but ne way for thoes that have the greddy when crusing do you guys hear a rumble like sound b4 the blowoff valve releases... any help would be great..

check the adjustment on your bov

which map are you runniing on?

The orignal map .. i ahve the 2nd batch though ....

thanks...ive decided to remove mine and go modified stock again...anyone want a turbo with less than 1k miles?

thanks...ive decided to remove mine and go modified stock again...anyone want a turbo with less than 1k miles?
Wow. That was quick. How much do you want for the complete setup?

I am interested as well. What all are you selling? Just the Greddy kit? PM or email me.

thanks...ive decided to remove mine and go modified stock again...anyone want a turbo with less than 1k miles?

I'm sure everyone wants to know why... :confused:

turbo is fine...i love the power...quality and all.
i would recommend it to anyone. however,

i miss the balance of the "modified"stock car i had.
too many tuning issues that i do not want to deal with...
have a CEL now (cat or O2?)...and so on.
i know all these issues are workable but just want the car i have always enjoyed as is, back.
jeff, adrian, jon and fred have all been helpful with getting my car up and running well,,,thanks!
i am taking offers, but i promised mad dog i would wait on his interest first. pm me if you like and i will respond promptly. i will put it in the FS ad if mad dog is not interested.

rudy, im interested how much are you asking for the turbo?

rudy you made me wonder... is it so hard to have a turbo, when its not from the factory?
I have no experience, so I don't know... it just seems strange to sale it so fast.

i miss the balance of the "modified"stock car i had.
too many tuning issues that i do not want to deal with...
have a CEL now (cat or O2?)...and so on.
i know all these issues are workable but just want the car i have always enjoyed as is, back.


Just talked to my mechanic yesterday. I have had the CEL on for a few weeks, thought it might have been my SR Motorsports pullies (again) but it was the engine sensing I was running too rich & triggered the CEL. Mechanic is revising the map, should have a revised map shortly.

Fanman i have the CEL and mine blinks under boost probly the same reason running i little to rich .... Do i have to get the mapped changed if the car is running well ???? And if i have to change maps i dont understand what i need to do so can you please explain what i need and the diffuclty involved with it ..... as far as loading maps thanks

shane

Fanman i have the CEL and mine blinks under boost probly the same reason running i little to rich .... Do i have to get the mapped changed if the car is running well ???? And if i have to change maps i dont understand what i need to do so can you please explain what i need and the diffuclty involved with it ..... as far as loading maps thanks

shane

Greddy erred on the side of caution & made our cars run very rich (more fuel than is necessary). This is considered better than running too lean & blowing the engine, but if the car senses that there is too much fuel (running rich) it will trigger the CEL (which it did on my car). You don't have to re-map it the car if it is running too rich, but the new Greddy map will lean out a few areas in this mid range. This will increase hp & also if you are running an aftermarket hi-flow cat it should decrease the backfire issue that some of us have gotten. If your car is running fine (no detonation or catastrophic failure as that is what a blinking CEL usually means) than it is up to you if you want to upgrade the EManage Map. You can do this 2 ways. One, is to send the EManage unit back to Greddy and have them re-flash the unit. The second, you can buy the Greddy Support tool (Greddy software), get the files on this board or from Greddy & you can download the new files from your laptop, see how it runs on your car , and make some adjustments/tune. Unfortunately it just seems there is so much variation on this car that it has presented the same issues to greddy, as it first did for Canzoomer, and I would expect it with all future kits. it's not the kits, it's the fact that this car's is all over the place to start off with.

for me it has been a challenge, not a disaster.
the learning curve, for me, requrires a lot of time and patience that i dont have right now. also, although i love the power, i miss the balanc of the car as it was.

rudy you made me wonder... is it so hard to have a turbo, when its not from the factory?
I have no experience, so I don't know... it just seems strange to sale it so fast.

fanman...

i know your mechanic is doing a lot of the tuning work for you...something that might help others though is if you (or someone who knows) could post a step by step instruction on "how to " download and update the cars map using one of the published maps, like jeffs for instance. i know that has been a roadblock for me...

Greddy erred on the side of caution & made our cars run very rich (more fuel than is necessary). This is considered better than running too lean & blowing the engine, but if the car senses that there is too much fuel (running rich) it will trigger the CEL (which it did on my car). You don't have to re-map it the car if it is running too rich, but the new Greddy map will lean out a few areas in this mid range. This will increase hp & also if you are running an aftermarket hi-flow cat it should decrease the backfire issue that some of us have gotten. If your car is running fine (no detonation or catastrophic failure as that is what a blinking CEL usually means) than it is up to you if you want to upgrade the EManage Map. You can do this 2 ways. One, is to send the EManage unit back to Greddy and have them re-flash the unit. The second, you can buy the Greddy Support tool (Greddy software), get the files on this board or from Greddy & you can download the new files from your laptop, see how it runs on your car , and make some adjustments/tune. Unfortunately it just seems there is so much variation on this car that it has presented the same issues to greddy, as it first did for Canzoomer, and I would expect it with all future kits. it's not the kits, it's the fact that this car's is all over the place to start off with.

Fanman i have herd from many people that the blinking CEL is the greddy piggyback system overriding the factory CPU . and its just the car seeing the piggyback overriding the factory CPU and it thinks there is something major going on ....

Shane

Didn't happen in my car Shane. Defnitely have someone with a Canscan tool check what is going on if you can.

yea i can do that ... Thanks fanman

HELP
Ok guys I have my first cel light brought it to my Mazda dealership they wanted to see
The turbo (they liked it) the computer said it was o2 sensor. I am not sure of the exact number that came up cant find the print out. I do not have my a/f gauge hooked up yet was not sure where to tap in into but my boost and egt are the boost will not go over .05 (greddy boost gauge). The egt reads between 1112-1256 deg f. and my gas mileage sucks only about 180 to a tank and that is going easy on the car due to break in time only have 257 mile on the car since install and have filled up 3 times. I do not have the screens installed in the intake either. And where is that dongle thing and is there a better pic on the wires to disconnect.

did you have to replace o2 sensor? i got a cel too but have not taken it to the dealer yet.
here is a picture of the dongle thing...per jeff (mazda maniac)
pm me if you need help on the dongle
andy

if you go back a few pages (2 or three weeks) you will find jeffs circles and aarows on what to remove...
basically, cut the pink and white...re connect the green and white...connect the black (grounds)

was it a secondary or primary o2 sensor?

u cant rember i want to say 2nd i will doubble ck in the am

Wow i dont understand i get about 130 miles per tank that was before turbo and now with turbo i get 150 i have never seen 180 ????? I dont i drive my car like an ass either nice and easy

Shane

yikes 150
ouch
i get around 190 when the light comes on where before i got about 210. If i go until empty i used to get 240 haven't tried it with the turbo...yet.

I also have 20's on my car that may hahve something to do with it ... I just asked one of the guys from my work and thats what he said ... I dunno though

Shane

I am wondering if any turbo guys see a marked difference in the way their turbos work with the "M" versus "N" flashes. Since I had my PCM re-flashed I have had nothing but trouble with my nitrous system. The car runs great without the nitrous but knocks like crazy with it and it seems to be getting worse. I will try out some racing fuel to see if I have a weird fuel quality issue. I hope it is as simple as that but I am using Amoco/BP Ultimate.

CRH

i have the m flash, no troubles here except a cel for the air pump

Silver, I wonder if your car would still be trouble-free with the "N" AND a turbo kit.

CRH

Charles: What RPM are you pinging? 7.3K ish?

There is something going on just above 7K, I can't tell if it is detonation or some other noise. Last year, when I got the nitrous running properly it was obvious when it was detonation because it sounded the same as with piston engines. Now, it is more of a dull thud-kinda sound above 7K. I am thinking that I have fuel issues. I'll try the Shell V-Power. I have read that some others didn't care for it but I need to try something. Check this out: last night a kid thought my car was running 11's because I have flames shooting out my exhaust when I race. I said nothing to change his mind, either. :)

CRH

At 7300 the VDI valve opens up the intake tract, and I expect the injectors ramp up a little slow. This causes a lean spike there...from about 11.5 just before to 13.5ish and back down to 11.5ish. I haven't logged since I think I got "n"... I will be this week. I'll see if I notice anything different

Hey guys, almost 2000 miles on my car since the turbo. With the original greddy maps I was not having any issues (i am on M flash). Since loading the map MazdaManiac helped me with, still no issues.

The new greddy map has an advanced fuel feature where if you hop on the throttle at a certain RPM it gives 20%-30% more fuel for just a second to prevent a lean situation. MazdaManiac can explain that one a little bit more. Can you elaborate on that point Jeff?

Accelleration map....some help would be appreciated on that from anyone who has played with it :D

Thanks for looking into it, dannobre. Even if it IS the N flash causing problems that would then demand the E-Manage to be used even in a mild h.p. boost situation.

CRH

does anybody else's catchcan look like the top and bottom pieces were welded on, mine looks kind of ugly.

damn i dn't check this thread for a lill bit...ok ok a long time and it's at 124 pages....ah crap that's a hella lot fo reading to check up on:(..oh well guess i'll be spending some late nights here...oh wait i spend most of my night here :D

There is something going on just above 7K, I can't tell if it is detonation or some other noise. Last year, when I got the nitrous running properly it was obvious when it was detonation because it sounded the same as with piston engines. Now, it is more of a dull thud-kinda sound above 7K. I am thinking that I have fuel issues. I'll try the Shell V-Power. I have read that some others didn't care for it but I need to try something. Check this out: last night a kid thought my car was running 11's because I have flames shooting out my exhaust when I race. I said nothing to change his mind, either. :)

CRH

kids these days will believe anything.....include those fake turbo kits that just make the PSSSSSSSSSST noise!

Just to stay on top of things, I am closer to fixing that problem I had with the N flash and will do a full write up in a few days. Seems a number of problems stacked up on me and I had to go back to day one and figure it all out. Thankfully I keep copious notes and have a good memory.

CRH

Can someone tell me what I'll need besides the GREDDY Turbo kit for my car to run good? I am getting the turbo kit today and I am wondering if I'll need anything else like a boost controller or Better BOV, ETC...Joey

Well, for one the kit does not come with a BOV so you will need one of those.
The following are just some suggestions; not just to make the car run "good."

Greddy oil pan
oil catch can
electronic boost controller
boost gauge
turbo timer
better heat shieling, what comes with the kit falls off i've heard

for tuning:

emanage support tool
injector harness
wideband afr gauge
egt gauge
fuel pressure gauge

Later on:

custom 3" exhaust
high flow cat or test pipe

I'm sure I left something out. Hope this helps

Andy

Thanks Andy, I dont want to to put the turbo on and be pissed that its not running right...I'll let you guys know how it turned out

Joey

Joey-

The kit is a bolt on kit and should run fine without anything else. Those suggestions I gave you were just to achieve best performance from the kit. The emanage comes with a very conservative fuel map that runs very rich.

Andy

My turbo ships out today, I can't wait!

My turbo ships out today, I can't wait!


I meet you at the Rotary Club meet ~ 6 months ago..I had the yellow RX-8 and you parked next to me. So are you concerned about the NC emissions inspection at all? Do we not need to worry about it?

Well my car has been running good but last night i took it out and i smelled something burning so my bro has it today to take a look at it to see if it is just something minor ... there was accually a little smoke coming out form under the hood when i popped it .... the car was running great though porbly something just rubbing something and getting hot we had this problem once with the 0 gauge amp wire was rubbing the altanator belt and got a little fire going on LoL nothing to worry about i will let you know the out come of it later tonight


Shane

I meet you at the Rotary Club meet ~ 6 months ago..I had the yellow RX-8 and you parked next to me. So are you concerned about the NC emissions inspection at all? Do we not need to worry about it?

it should pass NC inspection, I believe it's only in CA that it won't pass.

My turbo ships out today, I can't wait!

so you will be the first one with both nitrous and turbo?
:o hope the best for you, hope they work out perfectly...

so you will be the first one with both nitrous and turbo?
:o hope the best for you, hope they work out perfectly...

I am nervous bout running both, fear of knock, so the Zex maybe coming off.

Do you have to use the mounting flange on the Greddy BOV, can you just weld it straight to the pipe?

It seems to me that any gain that may be had by adding nitrous could be better had by turning up the boost unless your turbo is so oversized that you need the nitrous kick to spool up. It that were the case the RX-8 world would be abuzz with talk of the first 500+ h.p. Renesis.

Of course, right now the PCM is the biggest hurdle to overcome.

CRH

it should pass NC inspection, I believe it's only in CA that it won't pass.

Luckily, Arnie has made it so that we need to get our new cars have to get inspected 6 years after purchasing them.

Can someone do a DIY or install writeup for those of us who aren't exactly sure on how to install the Catchcan and BOV properly?

is the piping in the kit made out of aluminum or another metal?

is the piping in the kit made out of aluminum or another metal?

It's aluminum.
Find a shop that does aluminum welding and tell them where you'd like the flange to go on the piping piece.
I had to adjust my BOV several times to get it to not stall at idle or still hear the compressor surge when shifting. Not sure how to correctly set it up.

The catchcan goes inline between the oil filler neck tube and where it was connected to on the intake pipe.

you can have the BOV flange welded on in 1/2 hour at almost any weld shop...easy job.

I have got a shop making me a mounting flange and when the kit gets here Thursday they are going to weld it to the pipe. I needed to know the material so we could make the flange.

Horse,

Are you doing the install yourself?

Hey to all the greddy turbo owner....
Which greddy bov is better???S or RS????

Have RS,, Hey Philodox are you running with a E-01, I have a question...

He isn't using an E-01. I am.
Jon has a Profec B.

Are there any major differences between greddy turbo from us or from japan??
The greddy dealer in Greece told me that the kits they sold are coming through Japan and suggested me not to take it from Us cause its different....???!!!!

I don't trust him but will i have any problems with the us greddy turbo on a Euro-spec rx8???


Has any one from Europe installed succesfully the turbo kit from Us???

Horse,

Are you doing the install yourself?

Yes

I don't trust him but will i have any problems with the us greddy turbo on a Euro-spec rx8???


Has any one from Europe installed succesfully the turbo kit from Us???

I got the turbo kit from Greddy US a week ago, i will install it in 2 weeks. So if you can wait I can inform you how things are going.

But I think there will be no problems, only difference is in ECU/E-Manage. Jap version is calibrated for higher octane fuel than US version.
Someone correct me if i am wrong.

^ i can't wait bro...

I can't wait too, i am waiting for my car to get fixed, some drunk idiot crashed into my 8. :(

Where is everyone buying their turbo kits from?

I got mine from Mazdaparts.com

I got mine from Mazdaparts.com

me too.

Do you mind me asking how much you guys paid? I was ordering mine from option imports but then it went back ordered so I want to go through someone else if I can get it faster...

Mazdaparts off course is the way...best price best store...

Did you have to buy anything besides the kit to get you started? Did it come with an intercooler?

I guess I should of looked at the website before posting a thread...thats cheaper than any other company I've looked at! Thanks guys

Joey

Did you guys buy a better BOV? Greddy Type S...or is the one it comes with sufficient

Mazdaparts.com <----- Great service :D . I think he only have 2 left.

According to Philodox Greddy type S or RS should work just fine :)

The kit doesn't come with a bov I suggest getting a Type RS BOV an E-01 boost controler and the Greddy Catch can.

The GReddy unit comes with an intercooler.

According to Philodox Greddy type S or RS should work just fine :)

I have the Type-S on mine. IT's rated for low boost pressure (up to 16lbs I think). The Type-RS is for high boost. Both will work just fine with the Greddy Kit.

-Jon

I have the Type-S on mine. IT's rated for low boost pressure (up to 16lbs I think). The Type-RS is for high boost. Both will work just fine with the Greddy Kit.That depends on your definition of "just fine". Stock the RS does not have a recirculation fitting, but you may be able to find someone who makes a custom fitting. If you vent to the atmosphere it doesn't matter but if you want to recirculate there's an added hassle.
________
Babes Cams (http://www.girlcamfriend.com/webcam/babes/)

I have the Greddy Type S on mine. Also may want to look at the HKS SSV BOV, it is very good as well.

Greddy dealer in Greece told me that both work well with the kit but the rs in new...And off course it has bigger diameter....

I am very curious if the turbo will work with the revi good...I might think about making some custom tubing etc,to hold the revi cause the sponge filter in airinix is not better than the revi...

That depends on your definition of "just fine". Stock the RS does not have a recirculation fitting, but you may be able to find someone who makes a custom fitting. If you vent to the atmosphere it doesn't matter but if you want to recirculate there's an added hassle.

The blue piece on the type RS screws off and Greddy sells an adapter to be able to switch it to recirculating. I'm leaving mine to vent to atm.

I have the Type-S on mine. IT's rated for low boost pressure (up to 16lbs I think). The Type-RS is for high boost. Both will work just fine with the Greddy Kit.

-Jon

I also had the type S but switched to the RS recently. Both work but the RS is alittle quieter. If anyone is looking for a type S BOV, I'm selling mine in the forsale section here. (http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=61313)

I am very curious if the turbo will work with the revi good...I might think about making some custom tubing etc,to hold the revi cause the sponge filter in airinix is not better than the revi...

Good luck trying to get the Revi in there. The greddy airnix filter is cheap. I switched it out with a universal k&n one. Pics here. (http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=59523)

I am very curious if the turbo will work with the revi good...I might think about making some custom tubing etc,to hold the revi cause the sponge filter in airinix is not better than the revi...

Good luck. With all that you will have to do, you are better off just cutting up your stock intake. On the REVi you would pretty much have to cut the whole rear part off for the piping to fit going from the air intake & going into the intake manifold. Not really worth it. The stock REVi air intake will not fit any way, shape, or form for the Greddy turbo. The box/intake is too close to the intake manifold to route to the turbo smoothly.

I also had the type S but switched to the RS recently. Both work but the RS is alittle quieter. If anyone is looking for a type S BOV, I'm selling mine in the forsale section here. (http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=61313)


a little quieter???no much difference right??I want to be heard :D I am going probably with Rs

well, the install starts this afternoon, nay tips, hints, or special instructions? I heard that I should reuse the factory gaskets for the exhaust manifold? Didn't philodox have to bend some brackets for the Intercooler, has anyone else done this? Also I thought the Type RS BOV was louder?

I keep hearing about this BOV and catch can. I don't know anything about turbos, never had one, but shouldn't the kit come with this stuff if it is needed?

Are these kits CA smog legal?

I used all the factory gaskets .... and good luck have fun and take your time

Are these kits CA smog legal?

No.

Just bought the Greddy kit from City-speed. $3030 shipped. Should arrive Tuesday. Can't wait!!!!

Will I be the first with the turbo on the N flash? I hope not, I'm not crazy about being a guinea pig, which is why I'm so thankful to others on this board who are much braver!

a little quieter???no much difference right??I want to be heard :D I am going probably with Rs

Trust me, if you want a loud BOV, you want the type S. See philodox's reving video of the Type S BOV here. (http://66.116.187.145/downloads/rx8revitup.wmv)

I took a short video of my new type RS BOV below. It's got a deeper tone of streaming air. It's much quieter with the hood down.
Type RS BOV video here. (http://www.cox-internet.com/adrian-1/images/RX8/greddy/type%20rs%20BOV.wmv)

My 3 month old type S BOV is still for sale if anyone is interested, thread here. (http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=61313)

Have any of you guys taken the 8 on a long drive say 3 to 4 hr ride? if so how was temp does it run hotter ?

I've gone on a couple of 4 hour or longer drives and everything is just like stock.

Just drove up to Bakersfield this past weekend for Mazfest. It is a little over 2 hours each way. Car functioned fine.

what size are the O2 sensors, 20mm?

what size are the O2 sensors, 20mm?
The threads are M18 x 1.5
The socket size is 22mm.

You can also avoid stripping the hexes by using the box-end side of your wrench to remove them. Feed the gray connector through the wrench.

CRH

thanks guys

I got a ride in a Greddy turbo'd 8 today. I've talked to a couple people who got rides in one and alot of them said it was not that impressive, only somewhat better than stock. BS!!! I was totally happy, I was actually shocked at how fast it was. Maybe there's alot of varience going on since the 8's themselves seem to differ so much, but this one was fast. By the way, I have ridden in an STI, EVO 2003 SC cobra, a 400hp moded 92 mustang, among others, and I used to own a 5.0 mustang. Just so everyone knows what I am using as a base line when I say this thing was fast!!!

Yes, the RX-8 responds VERY well to merely mild boost in h.p. A 50-60 h.p. boost, whether turbo or nitrous, will typically cut 1 full second off the e.t. and add about 10 mph in the trap speed. The turbo spool-up helps alot in the midrange, too.

CRH

why did we have to turn the aux temp sensor 180 degrees, also how do you go about tightning down the studs that we put in?

wat would happen if I ran the car w/o a front O2 sensor, besides a CEL and a possible exhaust leak?

Dont drive it with out it ...

why did we have to turn the aux temp sensor 180 degrees, also how do you go about tightning down the studs that we put in?

The aux temp connector is in the way of the intercooler, you have to turn it 180 degrees for the intercooler to clear.
Hand tighten the studs (short end screws into the manifold), then put the bolts on and crank on those (don't know the torque spec).

Dont drive it with out it ...

ok, why?

I cant get another O2 sensor, to replace the one I rounded off til wednesday, so if I plug the hole what are the potential problems?

ha, engine won't run

I cant get another O2 sensor, to replace the one I rounded off til wednesday, so if I plug the hole what are the potential problems?
Ah. A little mechanical empathy goes a long way. Try working a bit slower.
The car won't run properly and you will get a CEL.
The PCM is absolutely dependant on readings from the front WBO2S to determine fuel delivery.

Ah. A little mechanical empathy goes a long way. Try working a bit slower.
The car won't run properly and you will get a CEL.
The PCM is absolutely dependant on readings from the front WBO2S to determine fuel delivery.

well I guess I wont be driving until wednesday, thanks for the help guys.

when installing suction pipe s3 to the turbon inlet do I want the slant to go right or left?

when installing suction pipe s3 to the turbon inlet do I want the slant to go right or left?

slant towards the engine. (right if your facing the engine bay.)

I feel your pain Horse. My OS will not come out either :(. Well, I mine is not totaly rounded.
I'll try to stray something on it and let it set for awhile. I had to Cut the wire :(.

Question to anyone. If I am able to get the OS out. Will it work Properly If I reattach the wires?

How and what did you guys do to remove the Factory oil pressure switch(instruction 3-2)?
Did you use a socket wrench? If yes, then what is the socket size?

we tried everything to remove that O2 sensor, a 22mm wrench, O2 sensor socket, then when it was damn near round we tried a 3ft pipe wrench with a 3ft pipe on the end of it and two guys standing on the manifold.

Dang, I guess I better place an order for a new OS

Question:

There were three hoses connected to the stock intack.
the new intack only have 2. Where did the third one hook up to?

we tried everything to remove that O2 sensor, a 22mm wrench, O2 sensor socket, then when it was damn near round we tried a 3ft pipe wrench with a 3ft pipe on the end of it and two guys standing on the manifold.

Yep, this is pretty much par for the course. In the Rotary Tuner article on Philodox's install they stripped the sensor. In my install, we stripped the O2 sensor. Had to order another one. Seems these units are made to stay in the stock cat bung, until you break it.

question:

Do I remove all the VFAD component?

How much is a new front OS? :confused: The dealer told me it $299.15. :mad:

Oof. You stripped the front sensor?
Yes, the retail price on that senso is $600. $300 isn't bad, but you might luck out and find someplace that will sel it for less.
It is a wide-band sensor and it is not interchangeable with some of the cheaper WBO2S like the LSU4.2 or L1H1.

Try Mazmart (forum vendor) -- I got a front replacement for ~ $100

MazdaManiac:
ITs not strip to bad. I didn't round the edges yet. It just won't move after
a certain point. I can Wiggle it back and forward. Any idea on getting this
thing off?

RXhusker:
$100 nice!!!! However my will kill me once I place the order ehhehe :D

Question:

There were three hoses connected to the stock intack.
the new intack only have 2. Where did the third one hook up to?

The 3rd one connects to the back of the airnix filter. There's a black rubber piece you remove and screw in a hose attachment.
Here's my engine bay (http://www.cox-internet.com/adrian-1/images/RX8/greddy/1.JPG) , see the black hose going over the BOV then behind the filter.

Speedrx8er -

Soak the threads with a penetrating oil, the kind that is advertised for rust-locked bolts.
I like the 3M stuff.
Then, using the proper size box wrench or crows-foot, work the sensor out and in, pushing it a little harder in the out direction each time until it is out.
Then, you can chase the threads with a tap and die. They are M18x1.5.
You just have to muscle it with the right tool.

How and what did you guys do to remove the Factory oil pressure switch(instruction 3-2)?
If yes, then what is the socket size?

You'll need a 24mm socket thats long so it'll clear the black connector piece. But it can't be too long or else you won't have enough room to put it back in after you put the T fitting on.

I posted a "Greddy turbo install help" thread here. (http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=52584)

Read through that before installing it.

Thanks Guys

just ordered my O2 sensor, $162 they said they only had one listed, but the front is different from the back.

Thanks Rxhusker, I just ordered on from Mazmart.

Can you tell me how to install the new OS? Like where does the other end of the wire
connect to.

Thanks

Speedrx8er -

Soak the threads with a penetrating oil, the kind that is advertised for rust-locked bolts.
I like the 3M stuff.
Then, using the proper size box wrench or crows-foot, work the sensor out and in, pushing it a little harder in the out direction each time until it is out.
Then, you can chase the threads with a tap and die. They are M18x1.5.
You just have to muscle it with the right tool.

Kroil is a pretty good penetrating lubricant as well; helped me out a great deal with getting my stock brake rotors off. I couldn't find any locally however, and had to buy it online. As always, don't forget a good supply of "mechanical empathy." :D

Anyhow, as far as GReddy turbos go, my car is currently down at Mazsport; I'm having Scott do the works on it. I'm having him install the RP Supercat along with the turbo (and a new clutch, and a WEGO sensor system, and a Profec E-01; hopefully if anyone can tune it up right, he can. And he'll have plenty of time, too, since I just got short notice orders to go to Iraq this week and won't be home for several months. :mad:

Hey Scudrunner,
Is there any chance you can post the emanage map once Scott tunes it with the RP midpipe. I'm sure there's other turbo owners out there that want to get the midpipe but have no idea of tuning.... like me.

You know I will...maybe you'll all get lucky and someone else will "crack the code" while I'm gone.

Thanks, and be careful over there.

one bit of advice I have for future DIY instalers of this kit: have alot of patience, and lots of friends, most of this kit requires more than two hands. W/o the help of my friends this install probally never would have happened.

...I'm having him install the RP Supercat along with the turbo...

I'm really curious to see how these two work out. Has anyone else installed them both or are you the first one?

I think other people have had hi-flow cats installed along with the kit, but I don't know if any of them have had them professionally tuned...we'll see how it all comes out...hopefully well, now that Scott has three months to work on it

well another night of work comes to an end, all we got left is intake pipe, oil return line and wiring.

[QUOTE=ScudRunner]Kroil is a pretty good penetrating lubricant as well; helped me out a great deal with getting my stock brake rotors off. I couldn't find any locally however, and had to buy it online.



I told you guys about this stuff months ago. You should have kept the faith and ordered it beforehand. :p Pay attention now, everone who is going to need to perform this operation, order the stuff early on. It stinks, but that is the price you pay. :rolleyes:
Armed with this stuff you will amaze people and look like a master mechanic. You guys above here did not listen the last time. All I have to say is what Darth Vader said "I find your lack of faith disturbing" :(

Well, you should be up and running by Halloween.

Well, you should be up and running by Halloween.
are you calling me slow? I don't get my O2 sensor till tomorrow so I have just spent an hour or so hear and there.

are you calling me slow? I don't get my O2 sensor till tomorrow so I have just spent an hour or so hear and there.
Well, I designed, built and installed mine from scratch in less time!:rolleyes:

I'm just razzing you. You should take as much time as it takes to feel confident that you are doing everything correctly.

I spent 4 days waxing my car last week. It wasn't that I had that much to do, I just moved so slowly that I only did a panel or so a day.
Lazy, actually...

oh, how could I forget, you should make your car jump off some ramps. Then measure how much more air time the turbo gets vs stock. Yeah.... that's it.

Heh, well, I tell you a stock NA gets quite a few feet on the moorland just behind me)

(or a more if you get the exit right on the preceding corner which unfortunately is 2nd gear)

If you're trying this at home, kids, expect DSC to get very, very, confused if you have it switched on :D

BTW I'm wading through this mighty thread because one of the tuners in the UK has fitted this, and I plan to be his 2nd or 3rd customer...

Kroil is a pretty good penetrating lubricant as well; helped me out a great deal with getting my stock brake rotors off. I couldn't find any locally however, and had to buy it online.



I told you guys about this stuff months ago. You should have kept the faith and ordered it beforehand. :p Pay attention now, everone who is going to need to perform this operation, order the stuff early on. It stinks, but that is the price you pay. :rolleyes:
Armed with this stuff you will amaze people and look like a master mechanic. You guys above here did not listen the last time. All I have to say is what Darth Vader said "I find your lack of faith disturbing" :(


Hey RP, I bought that kroil spray and it worked great. I let it settle for 10mins then using an O2 socket and a breaker bar it came right out, no problems.
Thanks for the tip.

I told you guys about this stuff months ago. . All I have to say is what Darth Vader said "I find your lack of faith disturbing" :(

I didn't have a lack of faith...you telling me about this stuff months ago is why I bought it :D

where is the ECM fuse located? what does it stand for??

I AM OFFICIALLY TURBOCHARGED! but I got a CEL, is this normal right after install?

Could some one who has already installed the Profec E-01, could you post instructions on how to hook it up, the instructions that come with it are vague.

I am turbo(my first) Any advise on driving this beast now? Anyways, my BOV seems to blow at 3000 rpm. Is this normal?

No CEL, no stall, no rough idle. hmm seem to idle better then before.

Also I smell burning oil and smoke coming out the hood. I figured it must be burning the oil
the was leaking from the oil line earlier..

I didn't have a lack of faith...you telling me about this stuff months ago is why I bought it :D



That's what I mean, you kept the faith, bought the stuff and had it when it counted. Everyone else is putting 36" pipe wrenches on 18mm bolts. :p

I've been giving this one some thought and I don't think there is an easy way for you on this unless Mazda changes materials. The extreem heat and two similar metals are going to get real freindly with each other. :( They need to make the sensor from cast iron. Or maybe bronze. Only cast iron can run against itself and not transfer to each other.

Folks, cast iron is a wonderfull thing, to bad it has such a bad rap. That doesn't help here, does it? There is nothing I can think of that could be done after they make it from the existing materials. If they wanted it to be servicable they would not have done it this way, they know better. :confused:

One thing to consider is some Permatex Copper exhaust gasket sealer once you get that sensor removed. I have used it to seal my midpipe but it also keeps stuff from getting nasty. I would be willing to bet if a little bit were used on the threads of the O2 sensor that it would be easier to remove later. The sealer will not harm sensors. It is in a gold colored tube and has copper particles in it for heat resistance.

CRH

took the car for a spin tonight, everytime I go above 4000 rpm and go to stop brake or clutch, a row of lights comes on and the engine dies, below 4 and I am fine. the eshaust sputers bad and if I hold it in between 4000-4500 rpm the car kind of jerks a little almost as if it misfires, but no CEL. Any ideas or suggestions on what might be causing it or how to fix it would be very appreciated.

took the car for a spin tonight, everytime I go above 4000 rpm and go to stop brake or clutch, a row of lights comes on and the engine dies, below 4 and I am fine. the eshaust sputers bad and if I hold it in between 4000-4500 rpm the car kind of jerks a little almost as if it misfires, but no CEL. Any ideas or suggestions on what might be causing it or how to fix it would be very appreciated.


would this fall into the "dongle" problems?

didja check all your connections?

didja check all your connections?

I checked all the lines

started it up this morning and drove it, when I started it, it took a lot of cranking as if it was flooded, then the check engine light came on. When I drove it I kept it below 4000 rpm and it never backfired or cutoff, what is happening at 4000 rpm, what is the significance of 4000rpms?

I might be totally misstaken but isnt the secondary injector supposed to kick in at that rpm?
Perhaps you have some problems with the injectors?
I really dont know just a guess from my part!

re adjust your BOV I had that problem but not as severe
shane

also might want to check the electrical connections again and the connection to the boost sensor as well.

ok, I also have another idea every photo I have seen with the catchcan shows the right side going to where you fill the oil and the left side to the intake, mine is opposite. I will try switching them.

ok, I also have another idea every photo I have seen with the catchcan shows the right side going to where you fill the oil and the left side to the intake, mine is opposite. I will try switching them.
So, you have yours set up to suck oil. Nice.

well, that didn't work, tuned the bov and it worked for a little bit (1 run around the block) and then it started up again.

So, you have yours set up to suck oil. Nice.

actually it is non-directional, like I had originaly thought.

It should have a tube connected on the inside of one of the inlets that goes close to the bottom of the can.
That is how they are designed.
The other inlet only goes into the top of the can and is connected to vacuum or something close to it.
The tube allows the oil to go right to the bottom of the can without splashing into the other outlet.

It should have a tube connected on the inside of one of the inlets that goes close to the bottom of the can.
That is how they are designed.
The other inlet only goes into the top of the can and is connected to vacuum or something close to it.
The tube allows the oil to go right to the bottom of the can without splashing into the other outlet.

when we put it together it was just a can and nothing else, nothing on the inside? But even after I switched them it still didn't run right. This problem is very confussing because when I am not driving it and I am just sitting there I can rev it well above 4000 rpm and no side effects. Tomorrow I will pull the dongle, and if someone will explain ho to install the E-01, I will load your latest map nd set it for 7 psi and see if that fixes it.

when we put it together it was just a can and nothing else, nothing on the inside? But even after I switched them it still didn't run right. This problem is very confussing because when I am not driving it and I am just sitting there I can rev it well above 4000 rpm and no side effects. Tomorrow I will pull the dongle, and if someone will explain ho to install the E-01, I will load your latest map nd set it for 7 psi and see if that fixes it.
I doub't the dongle is causing this.

What do you need to know about the Profec install? The manual is pretty good.

I doub't the dongle is causing this.

What do you need to know about the Profec install? The manual is pretty good.

which pressure sensor do I use know the one from the kit or the one from the e-01? where do I hook the pressure switch to the emanage or the e-01? Do I run the blue tube from the actuator to the valve, that came with the e-01, then from the valve to the port on the intake manifold? Also in the other turbo install thread I swear that wasn't me that said "your stupid" I didn't post that. If it's not the dongle then I am fresh out of ideas, got any?

to all using the greddy turbo (or any other for that matter), you need to use a recirculating BOV on the 8 simply because the car uses a MAF, or mass air flow meter, which measures the quantity of air coming into the motor and supplies the correct amount of air for that particular amount of air. so when you use a non recirculating BOV the car still thinks that X amount of air is entering the engine, not X minus what is released by the BOV. this results in the above quoted symptoms.



could this be my problem?



The BOV can be open to atmosphere even if it is after the MAF as long as you clamp the MAF output at zero throttle.

and this be the answer/fix?

Probably not, if for no other reasons than 1) you are having problems before you even get into boost and 2) I am using an open-vented BOV without either of these two fixes.

Before I would install the Profec, I'd figure out where you went wrong in the install first. The Profec wont fix these issues and may make them worse.

which pressure sensor do I use know the one from the kit or the one from the e-01? where do I hook the pressure switch to the emanage or the e-01? Do I run the blue tube from the actuator to the valve, that came with the e-01, then from the valve to the port on the intake manifold? Both sensors are the same and the PRofec can get boost info from the E-Manage, so leave that hooked up the way it is.
Or, if you prefer, you can hook the sensor up to the Profec and get the optional pressure harness and hook it up between the "COM" port on the Profec head unit and the boost port on the E-Manage. (This is how I have mine.)
The valve on from the Profec gets hooked up the way it is shown in the manual - between the port on the wastegate actuator and wherever you have that hooked up for vacuum/boost. (I think Greddy has you attach that to one of the nipples on the lower half of the intake manifold.)
Make sure you hook up the correct ports on the valve and that you remove all three plastic shipping plugs.

EDIT - Come to think of it, use both sensors. Leave the E-Manage sensor hooked up the way it is and add the Profe's sensor to the vacuum source (the VFAD line).

Well i jsut got back from the ocean but about 500 miles on my car so i have now ran about 1,500 miles on my turbo 8 and have had NO problems (knock on wood) but everything is going well .... So i know have 11,000 miles on my 8 and it is almost 2 years old ..... Well good luck horse .... But i dont ahvea clue why some people have alot of problems and some dont have any problems at all .... I think it may may have something to do with the people that install the kits no pun intended but good luck

Shane

And i now this is not in the right post but .... the meet in vivna VA is it worh driving an hour to from where im at b.c. the Fudds meet here in MD is beat ... Thanks Shane

Guys were having a little trouble tuning the turbo, and I would appreciate any and all advice, we are a decent bunch of mechanics but none us know an awful lot about turbos.
First, if I take it up above 4k and let it blow off, and slow down real fast the engine isn't building up enough vacuum and won't hold idle, so I have to slow down slow enough to build up vacum.
Second we were trying to set the boost at 7psi per th Greddy profec e-01 instructions, so we did the 3rd and fourth gear pulls, it will build up to about 5 psi and just start loosing boost, the only way we can get it up to 7psi is buy downshifting 5th to 4th or by getting on the throttle letting off a tiny bit letting it partially blowoff and then getting back on it and repeating this process niether last long enough to hold it and let off to set the boost.
Why are we loosing so much vacuum? Why are we loosing boost, it seems as if the actuator is just opening? What are we doing wrong, any advice on how to fix this and how to set the boost? Thanks guys with out your help were shooting in the dark.

Man. You are making me want to drive down there just to see what the heck is going on.

I wish some body could help me, we don't know why it's doing this!

Man. You are making me want to drive down there just to see what the heck is going on.

Well, I would definitly appreciate the help.

Sounds like Horse should drive over to MazdaManiac...
________
Toys Cam (http://www.girlcamfriend.com/webcam/girls-with-toys/)

Sounds like Horse should drive over to MazdaManiac...

i second that

I don't think he would enjoy driving up here with the car in that condition.

I don't think he would enjoy driving up here with the car in that condition.

Where are you at?

Gaithersburg, Maryland. About 1/2 hour north of Washington DC.

It's a six hour drive from here (Burlington, NC).

I can't figure this problem out, I read through thte instructions again and everything is right. I'm lost.

306 miles. It can be done in less than 5 hours by car.

Flights are $303.

EDIT - I found flights for $160 or so.