please sombody

 

I've checked out this file and it's coming from the eMange gold version running firmware 1.40 and required Greddy support tools software version 1.20 to open properly. Look like there is a accelleration map & NVCS auxillary output setting that had values put in but were disabled. On top of it, the add. injection and sub injector map is mapped against relative pressur (kpa) which need the Greddy Boost sensor plugged in.

So if Greddy Turbo kit doesn't include a Greddy Boost Sensor with it, I high doubt this map is the right one for the RX8, especially the rotary setting of A01. Like mazdamaniac mentioned earlier, this look like the map for the Z, not our 8!

 

The kit does come with the boost sensor.

m

 

It did seem like the "gold" version, though Jon has the regular "blue" model, version 1.39. This program wouldn't work on his car if he installed it.

I map against relative pressure, also. It is easier than converting pressure sensor voltage values in my head.

 

Be careful with the short ranch because it can have wild horses and donkeys!!!

Careful when working with ranches!!!
:D

 

So the kit include the boost sensor, then it would explain a few thing regarding why Greddy wire the channel 5,6,A,B to the secondary primaries injectors. Because these two injectors should not be in operation below a certain rpm, by wire them to channel A & B, they can fire up these injector below the stock rpm point. At the same time, the Additional map would have the additional correct value (by wire to channel 5 & 6) and be able to control these injectors in a relative manner. This in theory, once they have the correct factor set in the sub-injector, they can littery just alter the other additonal injection map without having to deal with controlling the second primaries separately. So after 6500rpm (this is where the sub-injector map end), the correct factor value in the last cell in the sub-injector map would carry out to redline. While the additional injection map is fine tune from 1000 to 9000rpm. So cell (11,16), that had the value of 4.0 (25kPa@9000rpm) would be a mistake, probably it should of been 44.0, I can imagine that I would type 4.0 missing a 4 and over look it. If not, this is super weird!

As for the VTec setting, they enable the NVCS function probably to control the variable intake to open a certain valve early because they are making changes to the second primary injectors. They turn on at @ 4kPa to 69kPa between 1200rpm & 4900rpm, and off there after. By looking at the sub-injector map, they start to tweak the injection at 5kPa from >=2500rpm, and at >10kPa from >=2000rpm. It does explain why the VTec is enable on purpose.

The only problem that now concern me is the AVV setting at 3000rpm, they set it to 20%, and 4000rpm 0... so if the MAF wire is spliced, then this would affect the MAF signal @2000rpm from 0% slowly increase to 20% at 3000rpm, then slowly drop down to 0% at 4000rpm. Againt, looking at the sub-injector map, the value between 2000 & 4000rpm are very distinct compare to > 4000rpm. This might have something to do with tricking the stock ECU during these rpm so the the ECU would make correction to the ignition timing since Greddy didn't hook up the ignition wire? might be, but I'm just speculating :p

As for the A01 setting, since they do not wire up the ignition, instead of providing an RPM signal circuit (would translate to extra cost), they just tweak the unit to other setting so it would just pickup the full RPM from one ignition wire instead of half RPM signal. This I got to test it out.

Me too, I can only understand relative pressure, no voltage crap for me. Which lead me to another adventure of re-writing the support software

I got a hold of the software version 1.20 (probably uncomplete), though it didn't come with the US resource .DLL, so I rename the JP to use in conjuntion with the US language. From what I've heard there're rumors that the hardware in the Gold & the Blue version are exactly identical; if this is the case, we might be able to trick the software version 1.20 to update the Blue eManage running firmware v1.39 to v1.40. Since I don't want to mess up the my Blue eManage, so I will be writting an emulator and loop back the communicate back the the software version 1.20 and try to analyze if the communication protocol are the same for both version 1.1 (1.39 firmware) and 1.2 (1.40 firmware). if they use the same protocol, I'll donate my Blue eManage as genie pig :D, and in theory if it doesn't work, I would be able to restore to firmware 1.39 as long the eManage still accept the firmware update command.

The attach screenshoot is what I've been working on:

 

I put mine behind the compartment box like this :D

 

i flooded my car

 

just try the unflood technique. Depress the pedal fully to the floor and crank the engine over a few short bursts at a time. Putting the pedal all the way to the floor cuts the fuel in the engine. If that doesn't work, do the same thing with the sparkplugs removed, have an extra battery handy or a charger. Worked great for me, i didn't need to remove the sparkplugs either.

m

 

Or, you can just wait about 2 or 3 hours while the fuel evaporates then try to start it.. that's the more "traditional" method of fixing a flooded engine.

 

i already took it to the dealer

 

Jon, why are you trying to tune your e-manage ...is there a problem or jsut want to better tune it ????

 

Where did you get the pan from?

 

lol shaw's car was the one greddy prototyped the US spec kit on

 

I plan on tuning it for 9psi.

 

9 is a good number...

 

i have a Q why cant you put full throtle? i try and it feels like it looses power is these turbo lag or my E-manage is bad. By the way my E-manage the active is green and the interaction is flashing is that normal or what.

 

My interaction LED is always flashing too. I think that's normal.

 

thank you

 

i have a Q why cant you put full throtle? i try and it feels like it looses power is these turbo lag

 

^^ You need someone who knows how to diagnose and tune your car in your area. You are not prepared for what is needed to maintain an aftermarket turbo system on a complex car like the RX-8.

 

i got the greddy turbo kit it should come tuned

 

Yes it should come tuned but its all relative. Its partially tuned, plus you are an early adopter like the rest of us. We are here to work out the bugs. I am getting my car to a point were it doesn't bog when you floor it. But it has taken some work and luck I would find a rotary specialist in your area perferably someone who does performance type upgrades on all types of rx7. I am a gearhead but this is my first turbo car. I am use to tuning V6 and inline 6 Z cars so it has been a learning experience.

 

i could drive it right

 

Jon, did you publish your dyno sheet? If so where is it. RG and myself have been kicking something around and want to examine it.