Its not hard at all. Just take the old pan of the car, and put the stuff that was on the old one in the greddy one. Just be sure to clean the engine block from the old selant.

 

Thanks mate..I am installing this weekend...Wish me good luck..We have a lot of job with all that extra and addons on the kit!!

 

Good luck on the install. I did my instalation in 2 days, around 14 hours, me and my 3 friends.
Its not so hard, but it takes time, just follow the instructions, and have a lot of tools next to you.
I had problems with turning on the car, but at the end it was just flooded, so everything is ok now, US greddy map works fine with Europe rx8.

 

If you will need some help, i can send you my phone number if you have some questions during the install.

 

I have type rs bov,oil pan,oil catch tank,profec e 0-1,ur pulleys as long with the turbo,to install these days....thanks mate...i ll pm you if needed and then call you...thanks...

 

The instructions that came with the greddy turbo kit are completely worthless. Make sure you read up on this threads instructions by philodox (i beleive its near page 10), and adrian-1's install thread.

ALSO, after cleaning the engine block, make sure to put a fresh layer of sealent (silicon) on the oil pan. RX-8 Oil Pans no longer come with a gasket, so greddy didn't send one with it either. Just make sure to seal it well.
Oh also, my greddy oil pan did not come with the necessary bolts. Check you oil pan box before starting. If you don't have it, make sure to run to your local hardware shop and pick some up.

-GOOD LUCK!!!

 

If I have an oil filter sandwich plate, would it be okay just to hook the turbo oil feed to it instead of going through all this trouble above? An oil filter sandwich plate goes in between the oil filter and the engine, it contains two points for sensors, etc. I have two sensors to connect to it, (oil temp and press) but could much easier put the t there? so would the turbo still get enough oil and would the oil feed line reach? Thanks guys, i will be takling that tomorrow Just got my exhaust manifold out, it was hell for me

 

Welli started the installation today and i ll finish it tomorrow maybe...But here is what spinning in my mind and i can't sleep...I have canzoomer midp-4 which use a 5" size catalytic system when the stock stystem use a 2" size catalytic...
Well is there any chance to accidentaly increase boost with the highter air flow and have a problem with the turbo running in highter boost??

I also have greddy sp2 and by the time we speak we are connecting the revi with the turbo...

Please help me!!!!

 

That's a good idea.
I put my oil filter sandwich plate in yesterday for my oil pressure gauge. I capped off the 2nd port since I don't need it.
It would be alot easier to install the turbo feed line there. You can tightened the sensors, T-fitting, and oil line onto the sandwich plate outside of the engine bay. Since the plate is free spinning, you can just hold it in place while tightening the filter onto it.
The line should reach, you may actually have some slack left.

The only other question is, would it get enough oil to the turbo.... I do not know much about engine oil flow. The oil line would be sitting at a higher point. I'd say contact Greddy, but they won't be in til Tuesday.

 

Your boost could increase, have a boost gauge installed and do not go above 7psi. The Greddy kit was setup to run with the stock cat. If you have a midpipe or hiflow cat, you will need to get it tuned since you will run leaner. If your unable to get someone to tune it in your area, I'd suggest putting the stock cat back on.

 

Well here is my biggest problem right now(well one of the probs...)
I have placed the airinix filter in the revi box and i don't have any space under the hood to install the oil catch tank....

Any suggestions??And is there a horizontally oil catch tank???

 

today i was talk to some guy.. he told me they are making superchargers for the rx8... and once installed, it will put out about 400hp... anyone hear of this? what brand makes this

 

anyone.... ?

 

i say bs

 

So do I. And I'm one of the guys making them.

 

Yeah right. And you will be able to drive it down the street once and :

 

I am in the UK and have been running the US version Greddy turbo kit for 3 months now. on the installation i had to slightly bend one of the aluminium air flow pipes as it was hitting the steering rack at first. Just uploaded one of the maps floating about here and the car is running so much better than before. There doesnt seem to be any bog at all now. Our octane levels over here are only 95 (in some places 97) so in theory the fuel isnt as good as yours. Can anyone give me any advice on getting a BOV fitted? I have read all the threads about it and you are saying there is welding to be done, but no one over here has fitted one yet as far as i can see and i dont know where to start with making one myself.

 

If you're not worried about price, I believe the companies name is Praxxus, they make a gage that will actually change colors to fit your needs.

 

you'll need to get the BOV and a universal aluminum flange for whatever BOV you buy. unfortunately there is welding involved, so if you can't do it yourself just mark where on the pipe you want the bov to go with a marker and take the pipe out and down to an exhuast shop. it shouldn't take them more than an hour to do and shouldn't cost too much.

 

Thanks epirochoid, is there any more work to do after the welding and refitting of the pipe, e.g. vacuum hoses or electrical work? is there any adjustments that will need doing to the emanage?
thanks

 

Well, given that you buy a atmospheric BOV (a true BOV), you need to run a vaccum line from the nipple on the BOV to a vaccum source on the other side of the throttle body. there are no electrical connections. tuning the BOV to stay closed at idle, yet still function properly as a relief device is a trick science...all i can say is get a boost gauge and play with it (someone else can probably offer better advice given what particular valve you get). again, if you get an atmospheric BOV you'll want to enable MAF voltage clamping on the emanage. this way the motor will not run pig rich under sharp off-throttle conditions, and should eliminate some bucking on upshifts.

...or you could get a recirculating bypass valve that dumps that air back into the system.

 

I've installed (and removed and installed and removed) a Greddy RS BOV. When it's on the car there is a LOT of popping when lifting off the throttle, even at low rpm. But the worst effect occurs at 6000rpm when it feels like the ignitioin has been turned off. I can hear the BOV going off. So, I turned it to full hard (only 1 - 2 threads above the lock nut) but this did not make any improvement. Then I tried running with the vacuum hose off as well and that moved the cut-out problem to about 7000 rpm. This is all still in vacuum manifold pressure ie not on boost. When I take the BOV off, everything goes back to 'normal.'

Do I have a bad valve? Or...?

PS I checked the valve at full hard, and it's opening at about 12psi

 

man i just started readomg tjos tpday. iv spent the last 2hrs reading every page of this thread. and i must say it is great. sdly the videos dont seem to be working, does anyone have another link to them.

thank you in advance.

 

Hey a bit off subject whats a good AFR for a F/I setup and does the air pump make a difference???

 

that and your 2 years late for the conversation