one bit of advice I have for future DIY instalers of this kit: have alot of patience, and lots of friends, most of this kit requires more than two hands. W/o the help of my friends this install probally never would have happened.

 

I'm really curious to see how these two work out. Has anyone else installed them both or are you the first one?

 

I think other people have had hi-flow cats installed along with the kit, but I don't know if any of them have had them professionally tuned...we'll see how it all comes out...hopefully well, now that Scott has three months to work on it

 

well another night of work comes to an end, all we got left is intake pipe, oil return line and wiring.

 

[QUOTE=ScudRunner]Kroil is a pretty good penetrating lubricant as well; helped me out a great deal with getting my stock brake rotors off. I couldn't find any locally however, and had to buy it online.



I told you guys about this stuff months ago. You should have kept the faith and ordered it beforehand. :p Pay attention now, everone who is going to need to perform this operation, order the stuff early on. It stinks, but that is the price you pay.
Armed with this stuff you will amaze people and look like a master mechanic. You guys above here did not listen the last time. All I have to say is what Darth Vader said "I find your lack of faith disturbing"

 

Well, you should be up and running by Halloween.

 

are you calling me slow? I don't get my O2 sensor till tomorrow so I have just spent an hour or so hear and there.

 

Well, I designed, built and installed mine from scratch in less time!

I'm just razzing you. You should take as much time as it takes to feel confident that you are doing everything correctly.

I spent 4 days waxing my car last week. It wasn't that I had that much to do, I just moved so slowly that I only did a panel or so a day.
Lazy, actually...

 

Heh, well, I tell you a stock NA gets quite a few feet on the moorland just behind me)

(or a more if you get the exit right on the preceding corner which unfortunately is 2nd gear)

If you're trying this at home, kids, expect DSC to get very, very, confused if you have it switched on :D

BTW I'm wading through this mighty thread because one of the tuners in the UK has fitted this, and I plan to be his 2nd or 3rd customer...

 

Hey RP, I bought that kroil spray and it worked great. I let it settle for 10mins then using an O2 socket and a breaker bar it came right out, no problems.
Thanks for the tip.

 

I didn't have a lack of faith...you telling me about this stuff months ago is why I bought it :D

 

where is the ECM fuse located? what does it stand for??

 

I AM OFFICIALLY TURBOCHARGED! but I got a CEL, is this normal right after install?

 

Could some one who has already installed the Profec E-01, could you post instructions on how to hook it up, the instructions that come with it are vague.

 

I am turbo(my first) Any advise on driving this beast now? Anyways, my BOV seems to blow at 3000 rpm. Is this normal?

No CEL, no stall, no rough idle. hmm seem to idle better then before.

Also I smell burning oil and smoke coming out the hood. I figured it must be burning the oil
the was leaking from the oil line earlier..

 

That's what I mean, you kept the faith, bought the stuff and had it when it counted. Everyone else is putting 36" pipe wrenches on 18mm bolts. :p

I've been giving this one some thought and I don't think there is an easy way for you on this unless Mazda changes materials. The extreem heat and two similar metals are going to get real freindly with each other. They need to make the sensor from cast iron. Or maybe bronze. Only cast iron can run against itself and not transfer to each other.

Folks, cast iron is a wonderfull thing, to bad it has such a bad rap. That doesn't help here, does it? There is nothing I can think of that could be done after they make it from the existing materials. If they wanted it to be servicable they would not have done it this way, they know better.

 

One thing to consider is some Permatex Copper exhaust gasket sealer once you get that sensor removed. I have used it to seal my midpipe but it also keeps stuff from getting nasty. I would be willing to bet if a little bit were used on the threads of the O2 sensor that it would be easier to remove later. The sealer will not harm sensors. It is in a gold colored tube and has copper particles in it for heat resistance.

CRH

 

took the car for a spin tonight, everytime I go above 4000 rpm and go to stop brake or clutch, a row of lights comes on and the engine dies, below 4 and I am fine. the eshaust sputers bad and if I hold it in between 4000-4500 rpm the car kind of jerks a little almost as if it misfires, but no CEL. Any ideas or suggestions on what might be causing it or how to fix it would be very appreciated.

 

would this fall into the "dongle" problems?

 

didja check all your connections?

 

I checked all the lines

 

started it up this morning and drove it, when I started it, it took a lot of cranking as if it was flooded, then the check engine light came on. When I drove it I kept it below 4000 rpm and it never backfired or cutoff, what is happening at 4000 rpm, what is the significance of 4000rpms?

 

I might be totally misstaken but isnt the secondary injector supposed to kick in at that rpm?
Perhaps you have some problems with the injectors?
I really dont know just a guess from my part!

 

re adjust your BOV I had that problem but not as severe
shane

 

also might want to check the electrical connections again and the connection to the boost sensor as well.