Notices
Series I Aftermarket Performance Modifications Discussion of power adding modifications
Sponsored by:

Restoration and track day preparations

Old 08-05-2015, 09:08 AM
  #1  
j_tibo
Thread Starter
 
jay_tibo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ottawa...well Wendover
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Restoration and track day preparations

This all started to get the car ready for track days and just a nice driver. I had used the car as a daily driver and it has been a toy for the past 3 years since installing the turbo kit. I didn't take much pictures of the tear down but I think it's obvious what was done...everything was removed!

Thing that are getting done and have been done:

-Sand blasted all parts and underneath of the car (got ride of all the black rubber stuff)

-Seam welded frame rails and all shock and sub frame mounts

-All bushings changing to polly

-Rear sub frame going to aluminum sub frame bushings

-Rear brake bias valve and hydro-brake will be installed

-All new wheel bearing all around

-R3 Bilstein suspension

-Fresh pads and rotors all around

-Turbo manifold, down pipe and mid pipe will be ceramic coated (mid pipe is a RX7.com with cat punched out, cat-back is a new HKS Hi-Power)

-Greddy turbo kit with AEM air intake, changing all hardware to T-Bolts, change silicone couplers to 18 wheeler grade, running BHR coils, 255 Walboro pump, Forge twin-piston BOV.

















































Engine in need of cleaning! Turbo down pipe and header going to get ceramic coated.








Way easier to move it this way!!!








jay_tibo is offline  
Old 08-05-2015, 09:29 AM
  #2  
j_tibo
Thread Starter
 
jay_tibo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ottawa...well Wendover
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts












RUST!!!!!!






















All clean ready for primer














All Rock Guard removed










Rust repaired!






Ready for Epoxy primer
jay_tibo is offline  
Old 08-05-2015, 09:45 AM
  #3  
j_tibo
Thread Starter
 
jay_tibo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ottawa...well Wendover
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts






Seam welding started














We had a spray booth that usually paints 18 wheelers, everything got painted at once




all the inside of the truck, hood, fenders, and door jams where done in black to aide in the color change, never need to worry about those again




Epoxy primer starting to be applied




























Hard to see but it's clean!






Back where the fuel tank sits




Back of car






jay_tibo is offline  
Old 08-05-2015, 09:53 AM
  #4  
j_tibo
Thread Starter
 
jay_tibo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ottawa...well Wendover
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts












Super hi gloss polly paint applied












Wrapped up and ready to head home
jay_tibo is offline  
Old 08-05-2015, 04:35 PM
  #5  
Registered
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: BC
Posts: 129
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Nice work so far, but I've got a A few notes and questions.

Originally Posted by jay_tibo View Post
-Rear brake bias valve...
Why? Did you eliminate the ABS? If not, then it's unnecessary. The car brakes very well with the stock ABS and proportioning. Even with a big brake kit it's not necessary.

Originally Posted by jay_tibo View Post
-Fresh pads and rotors all around
For track use with turbo power, I sure hope you're going to be using some sort of race pads and high temperature fluid. Removing the dust shields from behind the rotors helps them run a little cooler as well, plus ducting really helps. I've even got some Sneed4Speed hub adapters and high temp hose that I can't use with my KW coilovers that I'd be willing to part with for a reasonable price.

Originally Posted by jay_tibo View Post
-R3 Bilstein suspension
For a serious track toy, I'd skip that step and go straight to coilovers. I took out my R3 suspension and replaced it with coilovers for track use.


Are the ball joints and boots all ok on the rear suspension arms? Some boots look a bit tattered in the pictures, in which case I'd want to at very least replace the boots and re-pack them with grease.


Also, have you added any cooling? For me, going to the track when stock at fairly reasonable ambient temperatures, my car was running hotter than I wanted. It took sealing around the radiator and oil coolers, replacing a section of the fender liner behind the oil coolers with mesh for better airflow and cutting out all of the blanked areas in the grille to get the temperatures in check and that's not even in full summer heat.

Good luck with the build.
Black2010R3 is offline  
Old 08-05-2015, 07:28 PM
  #6  
Registered
 
Phil Bate's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: South Wales, UK
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I thought I was doing well pottering around under the car with a wire brush and a splash of Vactan & Underbody Seal. This makes me feel woefully inadequate! Good work
Phil Bate is offline  
Old 08-06-2015, 07:11 AM
  #7  
j_tibo
Thread Starter
 
jay_tibo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ottawa...well Wendover
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Black2010R3 View Post
Nice work so far, but I've got a A few notes and questions.



Why? Did you eliminate the ABS? If not, then it's unnecessary. The car brakes very well with the stock ABS and proportioning. Even with a big brake kit it's not necessary.
No worries the Hydro brake wouldn't work either with the ABS hooked up, luckily it take no more then 5 second to disconnect the ABS, the bias valve it set in there for left foot brake sliding action, it won't get much use but it's being done either way.... drift days maybe



Originally Posted by Black2010R3 View Post
For track use with turbo power, I sure hope you're going to be using some sort of race pads and high temperature fluid. Removing the dust shields from behind the rotors helps them run a little cooler as well, plus ducting really helps. I've even got some Sneed4Speed hub adapters and high temp hose that I can't use with my KW coilovers that I'd be willing to part with for a reasonable price.
Dust shield are all off and won't be finding there way back on the car, suspension will be fine, I prefer a car with travel. Do you have pics of the ducting you did?


Originally Posted by Black2010R3 View Post
Are the ball joints and boots all ok on the rear suspension arms? Some boots look a bit tattered in the pictures, in which case I'd want to at very least replace the boots and re-pack them with grease.
I don't think it needed to be pointed out that the boots that I left on for sandblasting would be replaced lol. The grease will be Kawasaki high temp race spec grease I have at the shop.


Originally Posted by Black2010R3 View Post
Also, have you added any cooling? For me, going to the track when stock at fairly reasonable ambient temperatures, my car was running hotter than I wanted. It took sealing around the radiator and oil coolers, replacing a section of the fender liner behind the oil coolers with mesh for better airflow and cutting out all of the blanked areas in the grille to get the temperatures in check and that's not even in full summer heat.

Good luck with the build.
I'll check that out seems like all easy stuff to do. I do not have any AC in the car so there is 1 less radiator but I did realize I would need more then this. I will be relocating the battery to the rear of the car, so I might leave the rear of the radiator open no sure yet.

Last edited by jay_tibo; 08-06-2015 at 09:07 AM.
jay_tibo is offline  
Old 08-06-2015, 07:14 AM
  #8  
j_tibo
Thread Starter
 
jay_tibo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ottawa...well Wendover
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Phil Bate View Post
I thought I was doing well pottering around under the car with a wire brush and a splash of Vactan & Underbody Seal. This makes me feel woefully inadequate! Good work
Lol no worries it's a commitment to strip a car to nothing. Either way you take that stuff off is a pita! Even sandblasting it was difficult to get it all off.
jay_tibo is offline  
Old 08-06-2015, 12:28 PM
  #9  
Registered
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: BC
Posts: 129
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
I haven't done any ducting to the brakes, as the remote reservoir of my KW coilovers would interfere, so I left the ducts off. They are these: RX-8 Brake Cooler Wheel Brackets

As for the hose routing, I had a couple ideas, but never did anything, as I couldn't hook it up to the hubs.

For the sealing, I used some adhesive backed foam tape (window/door weather stripping) for the smaller gaps, I used a little aluminum duct sealing tape where it wouldn't be seen and stuffed pipe insulation stuffed in the larger gaps. I also tied the undertray up to the AC condenser screen to keep it from deflecting down and allowing air around under the radiator.

Relocating the battery and using an AEM intake are common cooling suggestions for NA cars, as it opens up the back of the radiator, making it easier for air to escape as well.
Black2010R3 is offline  
Old 08-06-2015, 12:58 PM
  #10  
j_tibo
Thread Starter
 
jay_tibo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ottawa...well Wendover
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Black2010R3 View Post
I haven't done any ducting to the brakes, as the remote reservoir of my KW coilovers would interfere, so I left the ducts off. They are these: RX-8 Brake Cooler Wheel Brackets


PM me what you want for them if they are just kicking around!



Originally Posted by Black2010R3 View Post
For the sealing, I used some adhesive backed foam tape (window/door weather stripping) for the smaller gaps, I used a little aluminum duct sealing tape where it wouldn't be seen and stuffed pipe insulation stuffed in the larger gaps. I also tied the undertray up to the AC condenser screen to keep it from deflecting down and allowing air around under the radiator.
I'll keep this in mind

Originally Posted by Black2010R3 View Post
Relocating the battery and using an AEM intake are common cooling suggestions for NA cars, as it opens up the back of the radiator, making it easier for air to escape as well.
AEM was already done before the tear down and the battery was next just seem logical, simplifying the engine bay as much as possible. I also have a turbo blanket on the way and will be ceramic coating the exhaust bits to keep under hood temperatures under control.
jay_tibo is offline  
Old 08-11-2015, 01:37 PM
  #11  
Wheels, not rims!!
iTrader: (7)
 
SayNoToPistons's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: NYC/San Diego
Posts: 6,451
Received 29 Likes on 23 Posts
This may be the first real "restoration" of an RX-8 on the forum. Congrats and subbed.
SayNoToPistons is offline  
Old 12-17-2015, 09:43 AM
  #12  
j_tibo
Thread Starter
 
jay_tibo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ottawa...well Wendover
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
So some progress has started! Big reason for the wait was I completely overhauled my garage before bringing the car back home. Fresh paint, new 2-post hoist that required me to modify the ceiling, all new wiring with a stupid amount of lights, fresh new flooring.

I started the work on the car, got fuel lines back on. ABS pump and front brake lines. Master and brake booster, clutch master and upper line. All rear emissions systems, fuel tank and filler neck. Got all the heat shield blasted and re-painted. I've been removing all the stock bushings to start replacing I will be assembling the rear end of the car first.

Picked up a parts car for references and few odd and ends.



Before sandblasting, primer and paint




Before real cleaning!






Before cleaning and painting






Before cleaning




Cleaned up all the old bushing and boots, started installing new stuff!
















Parts Car!!
jay_tibo is offline  
Old 12-19-2015, 10:52 PM
  #13  
Zoom Zoom
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Beverly, MA
Posts: 168
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Great progress. I wish I had my own garage with a lift and all the space needed.
ouimetnick is offline  
Old 01-12-2016, 08:38 AM
  #14  
j_tibo
Thread Starter
 
jay_tibo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ottawa...well Wendover
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Just a quick update got the rear subframe completed! All Energy suspension bushing kit installed, the kit does not come complete and I ordered one of the arm bushings from Powerflex, they also want you to recycle 2 of the sleeves lucky for me they weren't seized but still I'm not a fan of using used sleeves in new bushings. Diff bushings are Powerflex and so are the sway bar bushings. Subframe bushings were a pita to get the old ones out, all cleaned up with Sikkys aluminum installed. All the arms got a fresh boot with Kawasaki XU high performance grease. There is 0 rust! The cooper color you can see is cooper anti-seize that was applied. Replaced all alignment cam bolts and cam washers along with other stuff that needed to be cut off. 2 new wheel bearings pressed is as well as 2 new axle seals. Rear diff was open and cleaned properly in case any sand made it's way in.

Pretty much a bran new improved rear subframe, installed last night didn't get pic. Next I'll be cleaning up the wiring harness and installing it properly.



















jay_tibo is offline  
Old 01-20-2016, 11:21 AM
  #15  
Registered
iTrader: (9)
 
Chrishoky's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: North Wales, PA
Posts: 1,051
Received 9 Likes on 9 Posts
I must commend you, this looks like some awesome work. Wish I had the skills, space, or time for something like this. Keep it up!
Chrishoky is offline  
Old 07-04-2016, 02:22 PM
  #16  
j_tibo
Thread Starter
 
jay_tibo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ottawa...well Wendover
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Sorry for the lack of updates! I've been way to busy at work. Got the rear sub-frame all together and in. Got the front sub-frame and suspension all done and in. Hydro brake and bias valve are all in and plumbed. Been keeping busy with other toys...









jay_tibo is offline  
Old 07-14-2016, 08:09 AM
  #17  
j_tibo
Thread Starter
 
jay_tibo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ottawa...well Wendover
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Just a quick update no pictures. The parts car I have had factory HID. I search this forum and by multiple people it was clear it would not work and wires where a different size. To said people when you don't know what you a talking about there is no need to chime in!

Not only are the wires the same size, up to the connectors they are the same exact color (note left hand and right hand connectors are different don't mix them up)!! Very easy I used the connectors from the parts car but the connectors from my original headlamps could also have been used. With the HID plugin I disregarded the 3 wires used for the auto level, I can adjust manually like the regular halogen lamps. The ground for the HID bulb and peanut bulb are shared in the connector then split after. Extremely easy to perform and work as they should!

Also on the Mishimoto rad, the fan bolt up nice the lower mounts are perfect but the top mounts had to be modified it was way off, the forum had bad reviews for fitment and I would have to add I needed to fab upper mounts.
jay_tibo is offline  
Old 07-17-2016, 08:39 PM
  #18  
Registered
 
pistonhater's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Cacti Land, AZ
Posts: 1,061
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
wow, impressive work.

But it makes me wonder....wouldn't be easier/faster/cheaper to get another car without rust (maybe a rolling chasis with blown engine) and transplant the engine/tranny into it
pistonhater is offline  
Old 07-18-2016, 07:03 AM
  #19  
j_tibo
Thread Starter
 
jay_tibo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ottawa...well Wendover
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by pistonhater View Post
wow, impressive work.

But it makes me wonder....wouldn't be easier/faster/cheaper to get another car without rust (maybe a rolling chasis with blown engine) and transplant the engine/tranny into it
Lol always fun with the forum engineers!! Read and think about it again, I did not simply remove rust, I improved all aspects. To change and upgrade all the bushings, and seam weld the frame almost all the same work needs to be done.
jay_tibo is offline  
Old 07-22-2016, 10:01 AM
  #20  
Registered
 
yurcivicsux's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: North Toronto
Posts: 529
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
can't wait to see it finished. great work........
yurcivicsux is offline  
Old 07-23-2016, 08:15 PM
  #21  
OddBall_8
iTrader: (1)
 
puppet623's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Cali
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thumbs up

Props to you dude I have rust troubles in my 8 and I have been wanting to restore her but make a her a street monster for the corners but the body would have to be striped all the way down.
Good luck to you and always know I'm very envious :P. Hopefully I'll have the knowledge for this one day and time.
puppet623 is offline  
Old 07-26-2016, 11:27 PM
  #22  
Registered
 
pistonhater's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Cacti Land, AZ
Posts: 1,061
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally Posted by jay_tibo View Post
Lol always fun with the forum engineers!! Read and think about it again, I did not simply remove rust, I improved all aspects. To change and upgrade all the bushings, and seam weld the frame almost all the same work needs to be done.
Having a bad hair day? Jeez... it was just a question.

I get it. Removing the rust from all the parts and doing the powder coating did not add time to the project.

Last edited by pistonhater; 07-28-2016 at 08:45 AM.
pistonhater is offline  
Old 09-13-2016, 08:10 PM
  #23  
Registered
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Markham, ON, Canada
Posts: 587
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Originally Posted by pistonhater View Post
Having a bad hair day? Jeez... it was just a question.

I get it. Removing the rust from all the parts and doing the powder coating did not add time to the project.
Nah, I don't think he intended to be rude about it. I read his post to be a polite tone, but I may be wrong!

I just want to say that I really admire what you are doing! I really wish I can do what you are doing with my car! I thought about restoring my Rusty as well, and was unsure where to begin, but now I can just follow after you steps!

How much is all of this costing you? Unless this is your own shop, so it is costing you nothing but the price of that parts car?

Please PM me! I want to learn more about your project! I think I live near you, BTW!

Cheers!

Christopher
Sato Tatsuya is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
themastah
Series I Trouble Shooting
2
06-27-2018 06:55 PM
acroy
RX-8 Discussion
48
03-27-2017 10:35 AM
Feffman
RX-8 Racing
2
10-21-2016 07:40 AM
FERRET
West RX-8 Forum
0
01-04-2016 06:13 PM
RX8-RotorHead
New Member Forum
4
01-01-2016 09:15 AM


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:
You have already rated this thread Rating: Thread Rating: 0 votes,  average.

Quick Reply: Restoration and track day preparations


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.