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hey so im new to this whole rx8 game i've loved them all my life and finally bought one but im having issues already. so she cranks but doesnt start unless i feather the gas peddle i thought it might have been flooded did the process saw no smoke or fuel leaving the tail pipe which obviously means no flooding and she turned on after i feather the peddle but once i let go its like an all out stop if i were to let the car idle it just dies i suspected the ess so i cleaned it and tested it with my fluke meter and it came up bellow 2 oms of resistance which according to my research should be fine. i ran her on my buddies OBD2 scan tool and it came up with 2 codes ( probably due to the de flooding process since i did unplug the baro sensor) p0107 and p0300 which are baro sensor and random misfire my car is the 2006 rx 8 gt mt any help is better than no help !!!
Pull the plugs and look at them and see what they look like. Post pics if you have any questions.
A trailing coil failure will make it idle poorly. Did it ever start ? Since you started diagnosing it?
I went out and started it right now took to cranks and a little gas on a cold start kept my foot on the peddle kept her at 2k till she warmed up turned her off and tried two more cranks and it didnt work
So wait, it starts cold but not warm? Consistently? Because that's usually a sign of a low compression. Did you have it tested before buying? The random misfire is also indication of failing ignition.
So wait, it starts cold but not warm? Consistently? Because that's usually a sign of a low compression. Did you have it tested before buying? The random misfire is also indication of failing ignition.
When i first got the car it started fine took long cause of a shitty starter but now it like doesnt wanna take it when warm maybe im not waiting long enough for the battery to charge? Doesnt seem like compression loss cause when its on i can rev it all the way i can pop her in gear she takes the gear with no hesitation and rides but only at like 1700 rpms she rumbles and at 500 she stalls so I gotta stick on the peddle side note on cold start weird form of burning smell noticed today idk if its just left over fuel but it goes away after literally 1 minute il go back out when shes cool make a few videos to have some examples
When i first got the car it started fine took long cause of a shitty starter but now it like doesnt wanna take it when warm maybe im not waiting long enough for the battery to charge? Doesnt seem like compression loss cause when its on i can rev it all the way i can pop her in gear she takes the gear with no hesitation and rides but only at like 1700 rpms she rumbles and at 500 she stalls so I gotta stick on the peddle side note on cold start weird form of burning smell noticed today idk if its just left over fuel but it goes away after literally 1 minute il go back out when shes cool make a few videos to have some examples
If it's consistently having trouble starting when warm, compression is often the cause. A low compression engine will still drive fine, but it will have trouble idling and starting warm. Burning smell on a cold start could be a blown coolant seal. It will not smoke when starting warm or after 1-2 hours of cooldown, but after a sitting for a night or so, the exhaust will smell sweet and produce light coloured smoke while warming up. Is that about what you're experiencing? How's your coolant?
If you mean testing a coil, then yes you can use an inductive test light. Most of the you just clip the clippy end over the spark plug wire and see if it flashes with the engine running. Note that trailing coils may not fire at idle, this is normal.
You can also just pull the spark plugs. The deposits on them will tell you a lot about what's going on inside the engine.
Humor me for a second now low compression is cause by something as simple and fixable as a worn apex seal and range to a cracked housing an i right ? But yea forgetting the compression for a bit id rather focus on every other problem first fix any issues i find ( coils starters what not) so when i do end up tackling the compression ( which i havent tested ) it won't **** anything else up. So can i just get some autozone ignition tester and test the spark plugs? Removing the coils is the easiest way to test them? Is there a way to reach the ssv to turn the arm manually to test if she works with out removing ? How do i do a pressure test for my injectors? If i do have to remove the ssv dont i need to any special tools to time the belts properly, any torque specs on the way? Side note my red key light stays on at all times and rarely ever turns green and my remote lock button doesnt work i click it and hear the car register as if it wants to work but just doesnt any ideas ? If you want i can re state my issues symptoms and you can hand me an opinion on what you would do in my scenario il try to take some pics of my motor and videos of what im talkin about
If it were me, I would get a compression test. If that comes back good then change coils, plugs and wires and clean the ESS. If it comes back bad, your not throwing good money after bad. If you purchased this vehicle with no service history or compression test you were rolling the dice and it's possible you may have crapped out. As far Apex seals, there is no "simple fix". If they are worn or broken it means rebuild. If you have to open the engine to get to the internals, it means rebuild. Focus on that compression test and tune up first. You can do the tune up first if you like, however if your test comes back bad,then you just blew good money on tune up parts.
Yea but when it comes to ordering a new motor cant i just order it without these tune up parts like just buy the motor not the starter blah blah blah that I bought already wire harness and what not? And btw my ess works fine i cleaned it and checked it and it with my multimeter and it said under 2 ohms is good condition if im not mistaking it for a different sensor i came up as 1.1 ohms i cleaned the maf and i deflooded the motor and still no luck anyone know if i have access to the ssv to manually test the arm for play ( lol foreplay with my arms )
Update talked to recent owner ( I bought the car as is a week ago) he said he used to refill the oil every 3 gas ups but never undid that hose at the top by the oil cap and i checked oil today ( cold ) and it came back as a quarter down from full and i heard if we dont take that hose out by the cap before filling or have a funnel that gets passed it then it could send oil towards the ssv or the throttle body and cause build up of carbon MAIN REASON AS I GO THROUGH THESE THREADS EVERYONE SEES ME ASKING ABOUT THE SSV BUT I GET COMPRESSION TEST AT EVERY TURN
When I got oil in my intake, it would barely run at all from the MAF being fouled.
If you pull your intake tube off and there's no oil in it, then it should be OK.
When I got oil in my intake, it would barely run at all from the MAF being fouled.
If you pull your intake tube off and there's no oil in it, then it should be OK.
Intake tube as in the accordion? Or one of the vacuum lines if so which vacuum line ? And its been a few days now so id assume the oil might have dried up and turned to gunk by now
Intake tube as in the accordion? Or one of the vacuum lines if so which vacuum line ? And its been a few days now so id assume the oil might have dried up and turned to gunk by now
Yeah, the accordion, I was in a hurry one morning & topped mine off with a whole quart and got stuck in a traffic jam.
It was all over, even in my airbox.
I'm not saying your SSV doesn't need cleaning, but it's a pretty intensive process.
I wouldn't want to do it for no reason.
Update talked to recent owner ( I bought the car as is a week ago) he said he used to refill the oil every 3 gas ups but never undid that hose at the top by the oil cap and i checked oil today ( cold ) and it came back as a quarter down from full and i heard if we dont take that hose out by the cap before filling or have a funnel that gets passed it then it could send oil towards the ssv or the throttle body and cause build up of carbon MAIN REASON AS I GO THROUGH THESE THREADS EVERYONE SEES ME ASKING ABOUT THE SSV BUT I GET COMPRESSION TEST AT EVERY TURN
Because you don't have SSV symptoms, you have low compression symptoms. Do you want to invest a bunch of time and money on SSV and other potential problems, only to find out you ALSO need a new engine core? Or do you prefer to know your engine core is healthy before doing that work?
A comp test is only about $150, nobody is asking you to buy a new engine on the spot.
I'll repeat what I said above: you cannot test a spark plug. You can (and should) take out the spark plugs and at least have a look at their condition. You can (and should) test a coil with any induction light, yes.
Because you don't have SSV symptoms, you have low compression symptoms. Do you want to invest a bunch of time and money on SSV and other potential problems, only to find out you ALSO need a new engine core? Or do you prefer to know your engine core is healthy before doing that work?
A comp test is only about $150, nobody is asking you to buy a new engine on the spot.
I'll repeat what I said above: you cannot test a spark plug. You can (and should) take out the spark plugs and at least have a look at their condition. You can (and should) test a coil with any induction light, yes.
How dont i have ssv symptoms the ssv when stuck open starves the low end rpm and when stuck closed starves the high rpms and mine effects strickly low rpm idle i tried to post a pic of the map out i found of what messes with idle and it wont post the pics over 5mb apparently 🤔 and i found a thread earlier which i read to use an oct spark plug tester on the plugs and multimeter on my coils read the resistance reading if its off replace and once one is replaced the other 3 go with it
My airbox doesnt have that flat filter i got a stock airbox with a round mazda speed filter ( came with it doesnt look right to me ) and it doesnt connect to that weird air tube behind my bumper as the normal airbox does ( i got the stock airbox just not that Inbetween piece that connects the box to that tube with the actuator attached behind the bumper )
My airbox doesnt have that flat filter i got a stock airbox with a round mazda speed filter ( came with it doesnt look right to me ) and it doesnt connect to that weird air tube behind my bumper as the normal airbox does ( i got the stock airbox just not that Inbetween piece that connects the box to that tube with the actuator attached behind the bumper )
If you have a botched intake of some kind that could cause a lot of your idle symptoms. If there is no screen in the intake it makes the MAF do strange things at idle.
If you look behind your alternator there is a gold silver thing that looks like a mushroom. That is the Vac actuator for the SSV. The little arm opens and closes it. If you push carefully on the.part it attaches to it should move smoothly
Go back and reread whatever you read. SSV stuck closed gives poor performance at high rpm. It doesn't normally open until 3xxx rpm and some load anyway. SSV stuck open can mess with idle and low rpm performance, regardless of temperature. You are able to start it cold, are you not?
If you don't want the compression test, fine, it's your life. But don't complain when you get advice from people who have been over this a couple dozen times.
If half of the intake system is missing, you may want to check that there aren't loose vacuum lines around. There should at least be the variable intake solenoid vacuum line that should be capped or plugged in correctly. And obviously return the intake to stock form if you want the car to work right.
If you have a botched intake of some kind that could cause a lot of your idle symptoms. If there is no screen in the intake it makes the MAF do strange things at idle.
If you look behind your alternator there is a gold silver thing that looks like a mushroom. That is the Vac actuator for the SSV. The little arm opens and closes it. If you push carefully on the.part it attaches to it should move smoothly
Thank you i asked multiple times and you are the only one to tell me how to test the ssv with out removal and i have a screen behind the filter let me try to explain a little better you know how the air box closes one side is attached to the accordion the other attached to the thing under bumper and the whole airbox clips into that little housing yes the second part that fits into the piece behind the bumper is what im missing any way to make shift anything and test if it does anything different or just go ahead and buy a new airbox i told you guys i dont 100% believe i have compression loss yet i think i just have an ******* who owned the car before me and im paying for his mistakes or maybe this is my punishment for all the bullshit ive done growing up lol
Thank you i asked multiple times and you are the only one to tell me how to test the ssv with out removal and i have a screen behind the filter let me try to explain a little better you know how the air box closes one side is attached to the accordion the other attached to the thing under bumper and the whole airbox clips into that little housing yes the second part that fits into the piece behind the bumper is what im missing any way to make shift anything and test if it does anything different or just go ahead and buy a new airbox i told you guys i dont 100% believe i have compression loss yet i think i just have an ******* who owned the car before me and im paying for his mistakes or maybe this is my punishment for all the bullshit ive done growing up lol
i beleive that thing behind the bumper you are referring to is the VFAD (variable fresh air duct). to my understanding its a device used to limit engine noise and does not provide a huge benefit or loss to the engine itself (someone correct me if i am wrong). My 8 dosent have a vfad and its pretty operational, a few problems here and there but nothing related to the vfad, as long as vaccum hoses are plugged properly.
08-21-2016, 05:48 PM
