Will It Fit Thread
Yes that is directed towards you. Stock tires will fit, but less than optimal. Slight stretch in front and pretty good stretch in rear. edit: I was really late on this one. Work FTL
Last edited by J8635621; Feb 3, 2010 at 01:43 PM.
Alright thanks for the help. At least I can get 2 new tires for the Rear Wheels until I get enough extra money for 2 new tires for the Front Wheels.
Will it fit???
I have a set of 225/35/19 yokohamo advan sport tires, which are are bit wider than others of the same 225/35/19 numbers. I am wondering if a 43 offset on a 19x8.5 wheel will work.
I am looking at the prodrive GC 014i forged wheel, which weighs 18 lbs.
I am looking at the prodrive GC 014i forged wheel, which weighs 18 lbs.
I have noticed a power loss with the wider tires. And a huge loss with more wheel weight. 1lb of wheel weight = 10lbs of static weight (junk in the trunk). Made the car handle like an old mustang (maybe not quite that bad)
Do people even try to find the answer on their own anymore? This thread has nearly 4000 posts in it now. About 3000 of those posts involve a wheel that is wider and lower offset than 8.5 +43.
Okay, I know that I found a couple of threads where people said this wheel fits on a stock setup without fender roll, etc., but the repair shop called me to make sure that I knew that the tires are wider that what I had before, so I want to double check this combo on stock (not currently lowered at all):
17x9 +35 5zigen FNO1R-C Hot Version
255/40-17 Hankook Ventus V12 Evo K110
17x9 +35 5zigen FNO1R-C Hot Version
255/40-17 Hankook Ventus V12 Evo K110
Last edited by Spirograph; Feb 2, 2010 at 03:14 PM.
Spirograph: You want 255/45/17. 255/40/17 will make you have 1/2" more wheel gap and the car 1/2" closer to the ground. Your speedo/odometer will be 3.6% too fast. Nothing wrong with 255/40/17, but it doesn't sound like what you need.
djcharlee: That's more for the aggressive thread. Gonna require stretched tires/pull/all that stuff probably. 350z fitment?
djcharlee: That's more for the aggressive thread. Gonna require stretched tires/pull/all that stuff probably. 350z fitment?
Last edited by J8635621; Feb 2, 2010 at 03:37 PM.
j8635621: Thanks, I wasn't even aware of the change in the speedometer reading due to the change in tire height. I mean, it makes perfect sense now that I think about it. What is the % change in the speedometer reading in the opposite direction if I were to run 50s? Discounttiredirect wouldn't mount 50s for me, so I dropped down to 40s because I wanted to run Hankook V12 Evo's, and they don't offer those in 45. I'm not thrilled about the extra gap, but I like the extra drop (closer to the ground, not to the tires). Next time I have to change tires, I guess I'll go back to 45s and save up for springs or coilovers. Ultimately, it's probably a good thing that my speedometer will read slightly fast.
Spirograph: You want 255/45/17. 255/40/17 will make you have 1/2" more wheel gap and the car 1/2" closer to the ground. Your speedo/odometer will be 3.6% too fast. Nothing wrong with 255/40/17, but it doesn't sound like what you need.
djcharlee: That's more for the aggressive thread. Gonna require stretched tires/pull/all that stuff probably. 350z fitment?
djcharlee: That's more for the aggressive thread. Gonna require stretched tires/pull/all that stuff probably. 350z fitment?
How is that good? You will add "miles" to your car. May have to get a different tire. Most people lower the car to decrease wheel gap, not just make the car closer to the ground.
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html Tells you speedometer difference. Just be sure to put 225/45/18 on the left.
edit: I don't really feel bad for you since I told you this just a couple days ago lol. I hope you find a good solution.
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html Tells you speedometer difference. Just be sure to put 225/45/18 on the left.
edit: I don't really feel bad for you since I told you this just a couple days ago lol. I hope you find a good solution.
Last edited by J8635621; Feb 2, 2010 at 05:33 PM.
/Offtopic post

i'm downloading mine as soon as i get off work. I almost can't wait for the damned subs. I have to switch over to naruto some times which kills me because i gotta catch up on a bunch of crap.
/offtopic post
+1 on the same questions bit...
I almost don't want to reply any more

i'm downloading mine as soon as i get off work. I almost can't wait for the damned subs. I have to switch over to naruto some times which kills me because i gotta catch up on a bunch of crap.
/offtopic post
+1 on the same questions bit...
Ha-ha! (directed at myself). I meant it would be good because it would trick me into thinking I was going faster, so that I'd actually be driving slower and more safe. But, I didn't realize that it would be prematurely "aging" the mileage on the car. Well, I suppose it's not too huge of an issue. I mean, if I drive them 10k miles before replacing, I'd be adding 360 false miles to the car - not too big of a deal unless my engine eventually craps out with 100,359 miles on the odometer.
Does the odometer on the 8 read from the rear axle? Since it's RWD, I'd assume so. I didn't want to run offset, but if I bought 2 255/45-17 tires and installed them on the rear, would that work (I know it's not the traditional way to offset, but...)? Then I could do the same for the second set. I wouldn't be able to rotate, obviously, at least until I've burned through both sets of the 40s and gone all 45s.
Does an alignment need to be done each time when changing sizes in this manner?
Does the odometer on the 8 read from the rear axle? Since it's RWD, I'd assume so. I didn't want to run offset, but if I bought 2 255/45-17 tires and installed them on the rear, would that work (I know it's not the traditional way to offset, but...)? Then I could do the same for the second set. I wouldn't be able to rotate, obviously, at least until I've burned through both sets of the 40s and gone all 45s.
Does an alignment need to be done each time when changing sizes in this manner?
Last edited by Spirograph; Feb 3, 2010 at 01:58 AM.

Also, What the hell is going on here? Maybe I missed something but after glancing over the last few posts I'm not entirely sure why everyone thinks lower profiles are such a bad thing?
Lower profile tires have benefits that outweigh the minute downsides, IMHO.
I'm currently running 255/35/18's which are 3.66% different from stock size leaving the odometer 3.795% too fast.
As stated above after a total of 100,000 miles you'll rack up an additional 3.795% or 380 miles - I can live with that.
Lower OD of a tire will act as a change in final drive. The car will feel a bit more responsive both on the throttle and in turns, relative to the same brand tire in a higher profile. Sidewalls will be shorter as well, helping to stiffen them up. You'll have a hair more gap (a whopping .48" more) and your car will be a hair lower (again, a whopping .48"). So, the speedo is slightly off and the RPM sit a fraction higher at what would technically be the same speed - minute things that aren't too much to sacrifice, IMHO. Technically the tires may end up weighing a bit less than the equivalent higher profile size but now I'm just being pedantic...
In other words, lower profile may be beneficial in some ways. A lower OD will help a bit with both throttle responsiveness as well as steering. You'll get less sidewall flex which can effect grip but that's another story. Imagine having a bicycle with a very large front wheel, much like those old time bikes (side note: I happen to own one of those lol). Now try turning with that, and switch to a more modern bike with much smaller wheels. That is an exaggerated idea of what happens when you change OD of tires on a car.
Still, I can't imagine getting more than 20k off of this set of Hankook V12 Evos - that would put me off by 720k miles before switching to 45s (If I want to at that point). Interested in hearing responses to tiltmode43's post.
Actually, I was basing my estimate off of 10k miles, so 100k miles would put you off by 3800 miles, not 380.
Still, I can't imagine getting more than 20k off of this set of Hankook V12 Evos - that would put me off by 720k miles before switching to 45s (If I want to at that point). Interested in hearing responses to tiltmode43's post.
Still, I can't imagine getting more than 20k off of this set of Hankook V12 Evos - that would put me off by 720k miles before switching to 45s (If I want to at that point). Interested in hearing responses to tiltmode43's post.
The Angry Wheelchair
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I watched a lot of anime over years from DBZ, Trigun, Gundam, to Wolf's Rain, Gungrave, Samurai X, a lot of other miscellaneous ones and right now just Naruto, Japanese version preferably. I hate the American voices when I tried to see how they portrayed it, just too ugh.
/end off topic gibber
Actually, I was basing my estimate off of 10k miles, so 100k miles would put you off by 3800 miles, not 380.
Still, I can't imagine getting more than 20k off of this set of Hankook V12 Evos - that would put me off by 720k miles before switching to 45s (If I want to at that point). Interested in hearing responses to tiltmode43's post.
Still, I can't imagine getting more than 20k off of this set of Hankook V12 Evos - that would put me off by 720k miles before switching to 45s (If I want to at that point). Interested in hearing responses to tiltmode43's post.
PS: You only need an alignment when changing suspension stuff up or if you mess it up some other way, not putting new tires on. Tires don't affect the alignment. Also, don't worry about putting taller tires on the rear. It isn't that big a deal, would look funny, and the car safety systems don't like different height tires front to rear. Not sure on how much difference in height is needed for it to be a problem though.
Last edited by J8635621; Feb 3, 2010 at 11:05 AM.
No drama. Just I said reasons against something and tiltmode said reasons supporting it. It's not something super duper important anyways, just something not necessitated by his wheel choice or suspension setup.
Last edited by J8635621; Feb 3, 2010 at 01:44 PM.




