installation is very easy. Rear bar may take you 20-30 minutes (including jacking up the car with two scissor jacks...the front requires a little more effort (40-45 minutes).

 

I can't speak for Tanabe, but the Whiteline bars nicely split the difference between MS and RB. MS front bar is 18% stiffer, RB 108% stiffer, and WL is something like 56% stiffer, if I remember correctly.

 

GeorgeH, do you need any extra accessories/holes to put this on? RB need an extra hole and stuff..I'm not too comfortable on doing that myself..would installing just the front be enough, or would you recommend both front and back? I don't plan to auto X..well..maybe in the future when I hit the lotto But, be nice to get that extra control when making those corners...

Also, did you do the install yourself or had it installed by a shop? If what kwescott said is true, 1.5 hrs. for both the front and back..I will probably take at least 3 hrs :p

 

The WL bars work with the stock endlinks. I'm not sure how long the stock links will last, but since the WL bars aren't as stiff as the RB bars, and since you (presumably) are on street tires, I suspect the stock links will work fine.

I'd definitely do the matched set. I did the front only and didn't like it. But, if you like the idea of the car understeering a bit more than stock, to make the limits easier to approach as you learn the car, there's nothing wrong with doing the front first. But in the end I think you'll like the car better with a matched set, so my reccomendation is to do both at once.

1.5 hours for the pair is a bit optimistic for your first time, depending on how often you work on your car. In particular, the front can be a pain to get out once the bolts are undone - it helps to have two people at this point, supposedly. I did it myself but eventaully gave up in frustration and seperated one of the steering connecting rods from the lower control arm (this makes it easier to get the bar out). Yes, this can lead to alignment issues, but I used a measuring caliper to measure the distance between two hard points on the arm & rod, and then reassembled to exactly that value, and had no alignment issues.

Having said all that, I still reccomend shocks first...

 

Yeah, but shocks are sooo expensive compared to just the bar. For an average driver who probably won't see the true potential of this car (unless he hits the lotto), wouldn't the sway be the cheaper mod?

 

No question, sways are cheaper and easier to install. There's nothing inherintly wrong with doing them first - it's not like you'll screw the car up. It's just that shocks are more fundamental to the car's handling, so I consider them a more important mod. I can't help thinking like this - it's my engineering training.

In the end, if I wasn't constrained by SCCA rules, I'd probably have the front & rear WL bars on the car along with the D-Specs. So, from that perspective, doing the bars first is an OK first step.

 

george8.

check pm

beers

 

Out of curiosity, what DO you have installed on your car? I'm assuming you went with the shocks first..and sounds like you don't have the bars?

 

Yes, shocks first. Did a few events, then tried the WL/D-Spec combo for a few events, now I'm back to a stock front bar with the D-Specs.

Note that my reason for removing the bar is becasue stock class rules prevent me from installing the rear bar, and I think significantly increasing the front bar with no change in the rear spoils the balance of the car. Doing the bars as a matched set would be fine, I'm sure.

 

What type of D-specs shocks did you go with? MS? RB?

 

tokico d spec...

do a search for his threads... lots of good info in there...

beers

 

Thanks Swoope!!