Camber kit? Do I need it?
#1
Camber kit? Do I need it?
Hey I just got a set of powertrix coils and am soon getting 18x9 or 9.5 + 30- 35 rims. Do I need a camber kit? I'm not goin to be slamming it because I daily it but I do want it lowered a bit. I've read that the 8's have quite a bit of adjustment from stock so will I be fine? Thanks
#2
Registered
iTrader: (4)
Most of the camber kits you see aren't made for the RX8. Our car uses an unequal a-arm suspension, where as camber kits are made for cars with McPherson strut suspensions. To get more adjustment out of the a-arms you have to get eccentric adjusters that move the arms greater than the oem. They are available from Mazda Motorsports and possibly other sources.
For a street car, what you have (unless they are corroded like mine are and need to be replaced) will be fine. Changing the camber just to put on larger tires? Your doing it wrong.
For a street car, what you have (unless they are corroded like mine are and need to be replaced) will be fine. Changing the camber just to put on larger tires? Your doing it wrong.
#3
Ok thanks. Well I'm new to all of this and I told my one buddy( that has a slammed 240) that I just got coil overs and he told me that I'd need a camber kit. I told him from reading on this forum it seems like I wouldn't need anything like you stated too. I just wanna make sure I'm doing it right the first time ya know. So I should be fine then? Thanks again
#8
Girls who drive stick FTW
iTrader: (1)
The thing is do i get the tirres mounted on the rim at the shop then tell them to put them on the car, drive around and make changes such as fender rolling bumper tab removal on the spot ??
#9
Registered
iTrader: (15)
I personally would put the wheels on myself after the tires have been mounted by a shop.
Rear:
Disconnect sway bar endlink... mount wheel-tire .... use a jack to jack up the wheel .. check for interference. Do not drive around before doing this ... last thing you want to do is realize you needed a roll and blow out your fender on the first good bump
Front:
Same thing, but check clearances with full lock turns as well.
There might be better methods, but this has worked for me in the past.
Rear:
Disconnect sway bar endlink... mount wheel-tire .... use a jack to jack up the wheel .. check for interference. Do not drive around before doing this ... last thing you want to do is realize you needed a roll and blow out your fender on the first good bump
Front:
Same thing, but check clearances with full lock turns as well.
There might be better methods, but this has worked for me in the past.
#11
Modulated Moderator
iTrader: (3)
thats exactly my goal. no wheel gap with a 18x9.5 +20. Im just really confused to as how you guys go about making the wheels and tires fit. I want to run 265/35/18 but from what J said lowered on konis/tanabe it wont work. So now im looking at 245/40/18
The thing is do i get the tirres mounted on the rim at the shop then tell them to put them on the car, drive around and make changes such as fender rolling bumper tab removal on the spot ??
The thing is do i get the tirres mounted on the rim at the shop then tell them to put them on the car, drive around and make changes such as fender rolling bumper tab removal on the spot ??
Trying to make wheels with the wrong offset fit by increasing the camber is just going to fail on so many levels
#14
I am THAT guy
iTrader: (1)
On a more helpful note:
18x10 +40 will fit very flush and stay functional w/a full contact patch, moderate drop and very minimal camber (i have pics for proof if needed). 265/35's fit easy w/nothing more than a fender roll.
18x9.5 w/an offset around +35 should still work. Fender roll and look to fit 265's - 275's no problem w/a 35 series.
18x10 +40 will fit very flush and stay functional w/a full contact patch, moderate drop and very minimal camber (i have pics for proof if needed). 265/35's fit easy w/nothing more than a fender roll.
18x9.5 w/an offset around +35 should still work. Fender roll and look to fit 265's - 275's no problem w/a 35 series.
#18
Modulated Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Just never quite figured out why
FYI..I have 10.5" 18" wheels that fit without rubbing...so it is all about the offset
#20
Girls who drive stick FTW
iTrader: (1)
You can make them work...but you have about 3/4 of an inch to deal with on the outside. A combo of slightly narrower tires ( 255 or 245's) with a bit more camber and a serious roll and they will fit.
Just never quite figured out why
FYI..I have 10.5" 18" wheels that fit without rubbing...so it is all about the offset
Just never quite figured out why
FYI..I have 10.5" 18" wheels that fit without rubbing...so it is all about the offset
Im worried i wont be low enough with the koni/tanabe combo. I need opinions from everyone. Im supposed to pick them up this friday and i told the guy i wouldnt back out :$
#22
I am THAT guy
iTrader: (1)
^dude, you don't need to stretch the tires to make that fit. That'll easily fit 265/35 with a fender roll. It'll help fill the wheel gap and provide more contact. It'd be stupid to stretch a tire on a sunk fitment...less grip n' still sunk.
It'd be like making out with a fat ugly chick in public........no one wants to see that ****
It'd be like making out with a fat ugly chick in public........no one wants to see that ****
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