Transmission Issues/Questions
I have a series 1 with a series 2 motor in it, and unfortunately my transmission is having some issues. All of my gears work when upshifting, but second gear will not down shift without grinding if im doing more than 40 km an hour. I have looked into this and I'm probably looking at 2-4 grand to rebuild at a good shop, which just seems silly because a second gear synchronizer costs 70$. So I looked into used trans and I found a not awful one with warranty for around 600$ predicted labour is around 400-900$. So i guess my question is, have any of you had this problem? How did you fix it and what do you recommend? Only wrote this here because for some reason I am unable to start new threads.
Any other problems are internal.... shifter forks and shafts....
i will check the interlock pin , thank you very much...
You can see the tab on the top picture.... and it has to go under the raised part on the second picture in order to go into reverse. So you have to push it down slightly and over into gear
I have tried searching and could not find any clear answers to what may be going on in my situation. I do have a few thoughts though but I am going to keep them to myself as to not influence any answers.
Backstory and vehicle information: 06 base model with 6 speed automatic (I know, I know)
August of last year we went through hurricane Florance and I had parked the car at the highest point in town thankfully otherwise it would have been a fish bowl inside of it. Went back a couple days later to bring the car home and everything appeared fine, no wet carpet, no obvious water lines on the sides or anything. Thought great a dodged a huge bullet. The car drove fine the two or so miles home. My wife drove it to work a couple days later, about 10 miles round trip and on her way home that is when the problems started. I noticed there is a large amount of "trash" (leaves, pine needles, etc.) stuck under in between the brake lines and the body and other places like that from where evidently water was moving under it.
Codes: P2070 (nothing new there), P0138, U0155, and P2757
Issues and what I have done so far: the car would not go over 10-15 mph and refused to shift. check engine light was on, both traction lights on. I pulled the codes and got the above listed codes. I dropped the transmission pan and let any fluid that would drain/drip out over the next few days drip out. Put the pan back on and refilled according to the factory service manual and tried things out while it is still on the jack stands. Now it will spin the tires and shift in drive. However in manual mode it will not try and turn the tires unless you shift it to 3rd gear. It will also turn the tires if you give it gas in neutral. Reverse does not work and will not go about approx. 2000-2500 rpm when pressing that gas in reverse. Traction control lights are still flashing and the only code I am getting now is the wonderful P2070 which is on my list to fix once I get it driving again.
Backstory and vehicle information: 06 base model with 6 speed automatic (I know, I know)
August of last year we went through hurricane Florance and I had parked the car at the highest point in town thankfully otherwise it would have been a fish bowl inside of it. Went back a couple days later to bring the car home and everything appeared fine, no wet carpet, no obvious water lines on the sides or anything. Thought great a dodged a huge bullet. The car drove fine the two or so miles home. My wife drove it to work a couple days later, about 10 miles round trip and on her way home that is when the problems started. I noticed there is a large amount of "trash" (leaves, pine needles, etc.) stuck under in between the brake lines and the body and other places like that from where evidently water was moving under it.
Codes: P2070 (nothing new there), P0138, U0155, and P2757
Issues and what I have done so far: the car would not go over 10-15 mph and refused to shift. check engine light was on, both traction lights on. I pulled the codes and got the above listed codes. I dropped the transmission pan and let any fluid that would drain/drip out over the next few days drip out. Put the pan back on and refilled according to the factory service manual and tried things out while it is still on the jack stands. Now it will spin the tires and shift in drive. However in manual mode it will not try and turn the tires unless you shift it to 3rd gear. It will also turn the tires if you give it gas in neutral. Reverse does not work and will not go about approx. 2000-2500 rpm when pressing that gas in reverse. Traction control lights are still flashing and the only code I am getting now is the wonderful P2070 which is on my list to fix once I get it driving again.
Hi. I'm having problems getting my RX-8 into 3rd gear when I'm driving. When the engine is off all the gears are as smooth as they can be (I have changed the transmission oil to Redline MT-90). When i try to shift to 3rd it will just be blocked, there is no grind or anything. If you push hard on the gear lever it still is unable to move into the 3rd gear slot. And sometimes it works to get to 3rd. When I stand still in neutral and release the clutch you can hear a quiet but whiring sound. The gear lever shakes a bit at idle also (Collapsed motor mounts?). I have checked the clutch pedal bracket and it's solid but with some sideways movement. Where should I start trouble shooting?
Edit: It's the 6 geared transmission.
Edit: It's the 6 geared transmission.
Last edited by RobinRX-8; Apr 22, 2020 at 09:47 AM.
can you please confirm which model year and how many miles are on it?
possibilities are worn nylon shifter cup bushing where the shifter end fits into the shift fork controller at the rear shift tower and/or a bent or misaligned shift fork/rod
possibilities are worn nylon shifter cup bushing where the shifter end fits into the shift fork controller at the rear shift tower and/or a bent or misaligned shift fork/rod
Yeah, I'm not very good at explaining this in english. Anyway I checked the passenger side motor mount today and the tab on the mount is at the top of the arm that comes from the engine. So the mounts are bad, will replace them when they arrive and report back if this solves my problem or if it stays. Thanks for replying
The BHR motor mounts are in the car now and I can now shift to 3rd without issues. Feels like it's new when shifting all the gears. I figured that while the passenger side motor mount was out of the car it was time to install the Racing Beat header (Had it on the shelf for 1 year). That was not a fun process and took me a week but it's there now
So got an S1 with 103000km on it and 4th gear slips before going in and I found an ball bearing on the magnet when changing the oil after buying it 3 days ago , do you guys think I should tough it out and source a new transmission or rebuild this one? Also the oil was metallic and there was metal shavings on the magnet along the ball bearing.
the ball likely fell put of a synchronizer assembly, they’re expensive to rebuild, a good used one will have better value if you can find one, might be some risk involved though if someone isn’t honest about mileage and condition.
A mechanic told me it isnt supposed to have play. He used to own an rx7.. whatever.
He suggested getting a new tranny (currently unavailable from mazda) or input shaft bearing replacement. This vid makes it look easy.
What do you think guys?
Last edited by Kamal El; Jan 16, 2021 at 08:38 AM.
looks like it’s out of a dump truck or something, so it’s not an RX8 transmission. An RX8 trans couldn’t take using a hammer method like that, not that robust and it doesn’t disassemble that way regardless.
Pretty sure you cannot get it out the front like that and instead the entire transmission has to be dissembled; the input shaft comes out last from the rear, not the front. If you look at the Mazda S1 6-spd transmission workshop manual that’s the way it’s done there. Under the input shaft nose cover you can access the shaft oil seal and shims that set the free-end play from the front side and that’s about it.
ps: did you read the comments for that vid, lol
.
Pretty sure you cannot get it out the front like that and instead the entire transmission has to be dissembled; the input shaft comes out last from the rear, not the front. If you look at the Mazda S1 6-spd transmission workshop manual that’s the way it’s done there. Under the input shaft nose cover you can access the shaft oil seal and shims that set the free-end play from the front side and that’s about it.
ps: did you read the comments for that vid, lol
.
Last edited by TeamRX8; Jan 17, 2021 at 12:44 PM.
I'll go and read them now.. Is free play in and out? Or side to side?
Terrible grinding at high rpms
It’s mainly second gear but up and down shifts on any gear will grind at high rpms, the owner told me the clutch was going out so he gave me another one with the car but some people are telling me the transmission is also bad or the syncrhros. While I have everything out do I go ahead and replace the transmission or what?
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