PLEASE help me :( Thought I flooded engine but it might be the fuel pump?
10-05-2009, 10:12 PM
#52
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Is there a way I can check the compression on this engine? I'm going to assume since everything else is different I can't just use a normal compression gauge?
10-05-2009, 10:25 PM
#53
Ok my 04 is doing the same ****. I just came in from working on it. I moved it one day and it never started again. Cranked on it forever and it would kick once in a while but not start. Took plugs out, they were wet. Cranked engine over with plugs out to clear cylinders. Put plugs back in. Still no start. Found two trailing coils not making spark. Got new coils. Still no start. Plugs still come out wet every time. Had em in and out at least 6 times now. Soaking. Like I can dump liquid gas out of the trailing plugs. Strong gas smell when trying to start it. Can't figure out why so much gas everywhere. Stuck injectors??? It was fine one day, next day R.I.P. Any clues???
Thanks
Thanks
10-06-2009, 07:52 AM
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TurboJay, you do have a warranty. There is an 8yr/100k mile Extended Engine Core Warranty that covers your Engine if it loses compression and needs to be replaced. There is no inexpensive way for you to check your own compression on a rotary engine. I would take it to your rotary specialist and have them diagnose it. If you need a new engine, you are kinda fucked with your LS2 coils being there. You will need to buy all oem parts and return the coils to stock before tthe dealer will touch it. Good luck.
Edit: You could always do the poor mans compression check. Ive heard of this, but have never tried it. Something to do with sticking your finger in the sparkplug holes and cranking the engine to see if you feel any pressure.
Edit: You could always do the poor mans compression check. Ive heard of this, but have never tried it. Something to do with sticking your finger in the sparkplug holes and cranking the engine to see if you feel any pressure.
Last edited by jmc23200; 10-06-2009 at 07:54 AM.
10-06-2009, 10:54 AM
#55
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I brought it to the shop this morning.
When I bought the car it came with some kind of warranty that says they cover engine and pretty much everything else. All they need is for it to be at a licensed Mechanic which it is so I might be ok either way.
I never heard of the 8yr 100k mile warranty, will have to look into that......
When I bought the car it came with some kind of warranty that says they cover engine and pretty much everything else. All they need is for it to be at a licensed Mechanic which it is so I might be ok either way.
I never heard of the 8yr 100k mile warranty, will have to look into that......
10-06-2009, 10:57 AM
#56
+1 to jmc23200
have it check at your local rotary shop, if the compression is low (like in the 6), then return your car back to stock and inspect it at Mazda dealer, saying you got MAJOR lack of power and dies at stop sign. and say NO if they ask you you need to replace water pumps and stuff to get the engine warranty, cuz NEW WATER PUMP COMES WITH NEW ENGINE regardless.
have it check at your local rotary shop, if the compression is low (like in the 6), then return your car back to stock and inspect it at Mazda dealer, saying you got MAJOR lack of power and dies at stop sign. and say NO if they ask you you need to replace water pumps and stuff to get the engine warranty, cuz NEW WATER PUMP COMES WITH NEW ENGINE regardless.
10-06-2009, 11:07 AM
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+1 to jmc23200
have it check at your local rotary shop, if the compression is low (like in the 6), then return your car back to stock and inspect it at Mazda dealer, saying you got MAJOR lack of power and dies at stop sign. and say NO if they ask you you need to replace water pumps and stuff to get the engine warranty, cuz NEW WATER PUMP COMES WITH NEW ENGINE regardless.
have it check at your local rotary shop, if the compression is low (like in the 6), then return your car back to stock and inspect it at Mazda dealer, saying you got MAJOR lack of power and dies at stop sign. and say NO if they ask you you need to replace water pumps and stuff to get the engine warranty, cuz NEW WATER PUMP COMES WITH NEW ENGINE regardless.
Either way, you are under a warranty and it is possible you are still covered under SSP 67(I was 3 months out when I had my engine replaced) and 100% you are covered under SSP 77(Engine Core). If your rotary specialist can perform the work for you(engine swap) at no or little cost, go for it. If not, you will need to return to stock prior to going to the dealer. This is all theoretical btw since we dont know if its your engine.
10-06-2009, 11:08 AM
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Funny you should mention water pump, I did notice a bit of green dried up stuff on top of the water pump...looks like it's been like that for a little while.
I wouldn't have Mazda replace the engine, I would work with this guy to have it re-built (performance rebuild) or get something else in there.
I wouldn't have Mazda replace the engine, I would work with this guy to have it re-built (performance rebuild) or get something else in there.
10-06-2009, 11:19 AM
#59
Wrong, kinda. Under SSP 67(5yr/60k, extended powertrain warranty) you would be correct. Since he has an 04 like me, he is most likely covered under SSP 77(8yr/100k). SSP 67 Coverers a huge list of parts while SSP 77 is ONLY the Engine Core.
Either way, you are under a warranty and it is possible you are still covered under SSP 67(I was 3 months out when I had my engine replaced) and 100% you are covered under SSP 77(Engine Core). If your rotary specialist can perform the work for you(engine swap) at no or little cost, go for it. If not, you will need to return to stock prior to going to the dealer. This is all theoretical btw since we dont know if its your engine.
Either way, you are under a warranty and it is possible you are still covered under SSP 67(I was 3 months out when I had my engine replaced) and 100% you are covered under SSP 77(Engine Core). If your rotary specialist can perform the work for you(engine swap) at no or little cost, go for it. If not, you will need to return to stock prior to going to the dealer. This is all theoretical btw since we dont know if its your engine.
So it's up to dealership if they want to rip you off or not.
10-06-2009, 11:53 AM
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Funny you should mention water pump, I did notice a bit of green dried up stuff on top of the water pump...looks like it's been like that for a little while.
I wouldn't have Mazda replace the engine, I would work with this guy to have it re-built (performance rebuild) or get something else in there.
I wouldn't have Mazda replace the engine, I would work with this guy to have it re-built (performance rebuild) or get something else in there.
Last edited by jmc23200; 10-06-2009 at 11:55 AM.
10-06-2009, 01:08 PM
#61
it will not suck in the oil during cranking---you have to inject oil or atf into the sparkplug holes. If it is a lost of compression the atf will help seal the rotors and it will start and smoke like a bonfire. if it is a blown seal it may not even start with this--but it should hit some.
You do have warrenty.
You can do a compression check with any compression gauge for an auto parts store. It will not give you an accurate reading but it WILL show a different reading between rotor faces if there are any, and that can help diag the problem.
EVEN a low compression engine will run, poorly, but it will run or at least try to start. Hell even a blown engine will hit some!
Missing something. I would try a pull start 1st
od
You do have warrenty.
You can do a compression check with any compression gauge for an auto parts store. It will not give you an accurate reading but it WILL show a different reading between rotor faces if there are any, and that can help diag the problem.
EVEN a low compression engine will run, poorly, but it will run or at least try to start. Hell even a blown engine will hit some!
Missing something. I would try a pull start 1st
od
10-06-2009, 04:04 PM
#63
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Ok, talked to the shop, preliminary findings is REALLY low compression on 1 rotor. He's "trying to get it going" but outlook ain't so good.
He also said that Mazda is backordered on engines.......so I guess I could have it rebuilt and use Emersil's upgraded Apex seals so this doesn't happen again.
He also said that Mazda is backordered on engines.......so I guess I could have it rebuilt and use Emersil's upgraded Apex seals so this doesn't happen again.
10-06-2009, 09:47 PM
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Got my engine in less than 1 week. Thats not back ordered if you ask me. Got my car back about a week or two ago. Do yourself a favor and find the Monster Car Part Out thread or any other thread selling parts to a totaled 8. Buy all the necessary parts to return your 8 to stock and get mazda to replace the engine. Then, you are 2-3 grand ahead of the game and then you can do any mods you want.
10-06-2009, 09:49 PM
#65
apex seals are only part of the problem dude---time to do a lot of searching. I would really get the warranty done. then afterward build like you want, once you learn about all the stuff that can be done.
glad at least you are starting to get some answers!
od
glad at least you are starting to get some answers!
od
10-07-2009, 01:00 AM
#66
Ok I know this isn't my thread but my earlier post was out of desperation. Now I'm posting again because I got my car running and figured I'd share.
I read a lot of talk about compression tests and how you have to have a special tester and whatnot. Well I screwed my normal one in there figuring it wouldn't be accurate but at least might tell me SOMETHING. Well I ended up with less than 30 psi on both rotors. (dunno bout specific faces but at 30 psi who cares) That made sense because when I was cranking the rpms were barely fluctuating like it was having a real easy time turning the engine over.
So someone on here talked about putting oil in the rotor chambers to raise compression. I used some gear lube and a turkey baster and put it in thru the spark plug holes. Turned the motor over a few times by hand to make sure I wasn't gonna put too much oil in and lock it. That got the compression up to about 50-ish and it started and ran crappy and smoked.
So what the hell, 70,000 miles. I figured it couldn't be that worn out already. The flooding situation had knocked loose some carbon pieces and they would stick to the plugs some times during this process. That reminded me of the whole deal with "seafoam" and de-carboning. So I went got two cans of it. I emptied the entire first can into the motor. Putting a 5 second blast into a hole and then turning by hand till I heard a puff as the apex seal made the spark plug hole and repeating for each face of each rotor till the can was empty.
Waited an hour and fired it up. Huge smoke cloud was entertaining. Results: 100psi on both rotors. Front one took a little extra to get up there but it came in.
So there you have it. Wish I'd have found out before TurboJay put his in the shop. Then at least he could have tried the $10 fix first.
Cheers guys. Thanks for making rx8 club a super informative place. I couldn't have fixed my car without all the stuff I've learned here.
I read a lot of talk about compression tests and how you have to have a special tester and whatnot. Well I screwed my normal one in there figuring it wouldn't be accurate but at least might tell me SOMETHING. Well I ended up with less than 30 psi on both rotors. (dunno bout specific faces but at 30 psi who cares) That made sense because when I was cranking the rpms were barely fluctuating like it was having a real easy time turning the engine over.
So someone on here talked about putting oil in the rotor chambers to raise compression. I used some gear lube and a turkey baster and put it in thru the spark plug holes. Turned the motor over a few times by hand to make sure I wasn't gonna put too much oil in and lock it. That got the compression up to about 50-ish and it started and ran crappy and smoked.
So what the hell, 70,000 miles. I figured it couldn't be that worn out already. The flooding situation had knocked loose some carbon pieces and they would stick to the plugs some times during this process. That reminded me of the whole deal with "seafoam" and de-carboning. So I went got two cans of it. I emptied the entire first can into the motor. Putting a 5 second blast into a hole and then turning by hand till I heard a puff as the apex seal made the spark plug hole and repeating for each face of each rotor till the can was empty.
Waited an hour and fired it up. Huge smoke cloud was entertaining. Results: 100psi on both rotors. Front one took a little extra to get up there but it came in.
So there you have it. Wish I'd have found out before TurboJay put his in the shop. Then at least he could have tried the $10 fix first.
Cheers guys. Thanks for making rx8 club a super informative place. I couldn't have fixed my car without all the stuff I've learned here.
Last edited by The Underdog; 10-07-2009 at 01:03 AM.
10-07-2009, 10:16 AM
#68
Uh oh... Are you saying that by seafoaming I washed away all the lubrication? I figured the oil metering pump would take care of that for me but I don't actually know when that thing puts oil in and when it doesn't. Damn. I took it for a test drive AND drove it to work this morning. I hope I didn't fk up...
10-07-2009, 01:23 PM
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Ok, shop just called me, the car is FIXED!
They said I had EXTREME issues with carbon build up on Rotor 1, when I flooded it some carbon came loose and logged itself in the seal causing it no longer to have compression. He said he never had this hard of a time with getting it cleaned/loose but now the seals are free and the engine has good compression again.
I will ensure they did the Seafoam or another cleaning procedure on the whole engine if not I will do it this weekend.
So, Bottom line **MY DIY LS2 COIL UPGRADE WORKS!!!!** lol damn you haters!
They said I had EXTREME issues with carbon build up on Rotor 1, when I flooded it some carbon came loose and logged itself in the seal causing it no longer to have compression. He said he never had this hard of a time with getting it cleaned/loose but now the seals are free and the engine has good compression again.
I will ensure they did the Seafoam or another cleaning procedure on the whole engine if not I will do it this weekend.
So, Bottom line **MY DIY LS2 COIL UPGRADE WORKS!!!!** lol damn you haters!
10-07-2009, 01:43 PM
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lol glad it works. I wasn't hating, it was just a variable If they seafoamed it, or if you are going to seafoam it, go heavy on the premix for a tank or two just for added lube. You can never have too much lube
If they seafoamed it, or if you are going to seafoam it, go heavy on the premix for a tank or two just for added lube. You can never have too much lube
10-07-2009, 01:48 PM
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04-11-2010, 06:53 AM
#74
Ok, shop just called me, the car is FIXED!
They said I had EXTREME issues with carbon build up on Rotor 1, when I flooded it some carbon came loose and logged itself in the seal causing it no longer to have compression. He said he never had this hard of a time with getting it cleaned/loose but now the seals are free and the engine has good compression again.
I will ensure they did the Seafoam or another cleaning procedure on the whole engine if not I will do it this weekend.
So, Bottom line **MY DIY LS2 COIL UPGRADE WORKS!!!!** lol damn you haters!
They said I had EXTREME issues with carbon build up on Rotor 1, when I flooded it some carbon came loose and logged itself in the seal causing it no longer to have compression. He said he never had this hard of a time with getting it cleaned/loose but now the seals are free and the engine has good compression again.
I will ensure they did the Seafoam or another cleaning procedure on the whole engine if not I will do it this weekend.
So, Bottom line **MY DIY LS2 COIL UPGRADE WORKS!!!!** lol damn you haters!
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