Thanks Charles/Jon

Jon-I tried following the sound again and its definitely coming from around the intake manifold-between the manifold and the top part of the engine-is that where the apv and ssv are located?

I have previously removed the upper intake(plastic part)-is it advisable to remove the entire metal manifold and try clean those valves manually?

Charles-going to try clean my MAF-do both KAM and NVRAM reset and see if the problems persists.

Im also leaning towards possible fuel starvation(but mind you my fuel light is on and the fuel is low-but this has never been an issue before)-upgrading to th new BHR fuel Pump.
Whats your thoughts on this?

 

Thanks for the back-up Ray

Oh yeah... I'm a dumbass for thinking limp mode when he mentioned going up to 7K RPM.

Pretty much.

To remove the lower intake manifold you need to pull the entire engine out.

 

I could possibly get the air fuel ratios-my friend who runs my car on his dyno has a monitor-why do you ask?

Guess that blows removing the manifold out of the water...lol

I know that I blocked cat would also cause bogging down-I just fitted a new exhaust system-might this have any contribution at all?

 

Doubt it... though maybe a bad O2 sensor could cause this, but hard to say if its not throwing a code.
That's why I said check for any pending codes... maybe we'll get lucky and some will be visible.
Now that I think about it... you mentioned having a mid-pipe but no CEL. Do you have an AccessPORT to mask the CEL?

 

Just spoke to a friend of mine at Mazda im going to pop in on monday to have him check for stored/pending errors on the pcm-also going to have him check what flash I currently have and get him to load the latest.

Dont have the AP yet..its on the books though.
Funny thing is that I havent had a cel since installing the midpipe!!

Any tips on what flash is the best to get-from the posts it seems that M may be the way to go as Iv read that Charles experienced some issues with the N flash. What is the current flash available though?
Am I able to tell them which flash do upload or does the WDS automatically load the latest to the ecu?

 

Most auto stores like Autozone will scan the car for codes for free.
Not sure about the flash question, your friend would be the best person to ask since he uses the WDS.
At least with his WDS I believe he can cycle the APV with it and see what the feedback is like.

 

when you say "bogs down at 7000" does that mean it wont go past 7000 or it stops making power but still revs to 9000 ?

 

Will not go past 7000rpm it is as if my rev limiter is at 7000rpm. It just cuts if I stay on the pedal as if Im pressing brakes.

 

Not sure what might cause that ....but i can tell you that is definately not your APV valves .

 

Thanks Brettus I hope you are right.

Im pointing in the direction of dirty MAF.

Cant be coils or plugs or plug wires..they all new!!!!BHR Kit.

Im all out of ideas now

 

does this happen EVERY time you try rev it out or just sometimes ?

 

Every single time I try-its as if my rev limiter is at 7000rpm.

 

and it feels perfectly normal up to 7000 ?

 

perfect-no hesitation-no bogging-revs freely until 7000rpm then just cuts off.

 

P.S car revs freely to 9krpm when I have the clutch in-its only when I actualy try drive it all the way to 8krpm does it do this.

 

hmmm - that is a strange one ...

clogged cat is known to bog a motor down but not in the way you descibe ....


has this only started happening since you fitted the BHR coils ?

 

my previous OEM coils were really bad caused the car to stall quite a few times and even switch off hence the BHR kit. Going to try a few things like clean the maf reset the KAM NVRAM but will only know for sure if I get a cel.

Highly unlikely its the coils because I can rev to redline but cant physically drive the car to redline..weird I know.
If all else fails I will post a new thread tomorrow with my 7000limit issue.

Thanks for all the help guys.

 

UPDATE

Well I did the the ecu resets-now I dont have the limit at 7000 anymore-I can drive it to redline but there is still some hesitation at high rpms-I have a new set of NGK plugs from Charles that I will fit this weekend as well as cleaning the maf and see if the hesitation is still there.

From the threads I noticed that high rpm hesitation is normally the plugs..any second opinions out there?

Jon-I have given up hope on the noise will see what mazda says on monday and keep you posted.

 

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

I had the same issue, and i took the car in to the dealer and it was a SOLENOID issue. the part is around $80 cnd, if you do it, but if a tech does it you might pay over $400.

 

Never heard a bad solenoid sound like an electric motor as the OP described.
But if he wanted to try that to rule it out, just swap it with the AIR solenoid and see if the issue/sound goes away.
Since he has a mid-pipe, he has no need for the AIR solenoid anyway.

 

It was a VDI Solenoid that was stuck, and total price to fix at the dealer was $402
hope this helps.

 

Whats the VDI solenoid used for and where is it situated Renesis?

Jon-new plugs all resets done eshaft sensor and maf cleaned but still hesitation at high rpm.
Going to Mazda after work will see what they say.

Hesitation gone...I did not allow the ecu to learn new fuel trims after I reset it hence the hesitation

Only the noise from the intake left-booked in with mazda on thursday to test the solenoids et with the wds as Jon mentioned earlier.

My car feels way more powerfull now with the full exhaust and BHR Coil kit.