avanti_racing08

OK guys here it goes

04, MT with 50k and change on it
bought it used
mods it had that i know of, boral cat back

i have done,
AEM CAI, super cat high flow cat, UR UDP, BHR coils and wires

I drive it a lil hard and race from time to time. only drive it in the late spring to early fall. this is the issue, Missfiring, will not go above 7k with out missfiring so bad that smoke is poring out to the point it will stop traffic behind me. will not start when it gets hot UNLESS i pump the brakes to reset the E Shaft sensor (most of the time. few times didnt work). I am a mechanic and have had a few other mechanics that i know look at it and this is what we have fig out

The coils wires and plugs are all working like they need to be, putting out the right spark. No engine codes what so ever show up durring idle or driving. Something that came to mind is is the E shaft Sensor going? But i couldnt test the compression on the motor b/c i dont have one for the car. It seems like there isnt enough compression to start it. So beside the leak test or compression test how do i know if i have a bad apex seal? I personally only have a few days to work on my car b/c i return to afganistan. so any help would be great, or has anybody even heard of a issue like this.

Thanks for the helps guys

Bobby

kfeem05

when this happened to me it was the coils are you positive that yours are good cause i have the same year and milage and it cost me a lot of money. if it is the same deal diy dont pay the dealership to fix it like me.

yiksing

Will not go above 7k sounds like clogged cat but you modded so ... maybe stuck valve.

Warm start issue, either old version starter or dead engine.

Good luck

avanti_racing08

Before i left there was a intake valve stuck open code but it only showed up once and never came back, and as for the coils yes i know there are good i have checked them multipul times its not coils, i wish it was that easy.


And Im still new to the rotory motors what is a SSV???? and could that be an issue

EricMeyer

A motor with lower compression will reveal it's weakness on/around 7,000 when valve actuation. You can see this on a before/after dyno. With a 2004 motor and 50K miles and those mods, chances are that thing wasn't babied when you bought it. High(er) rpm operation will wear the motor faster than the proverbial little old lady that drove it on Sunday. Try some SeaFoam and see what she does.

On a side note: Where are you getting 228 and 168 numbers. These are not accurate my friend and/or the measuring device to obtain this info is too generous. Ask me how I know this if you want. I have keys a dyno shop and have hundreds and hundreds of pulls and testing to prove this. Not trying to crush you here, just revealing my vast experience with these cars on a rwhl dyno (dynojet). This particular dyno is very accurate based on testing and comparison with dozens of Mazda Spec Miatas and comparing to several dynos. Basically it's a dyno with accurate readings.

Happy Rotorings and try the SeaFoam. Cheap test.

avanti_racing08

OK im not sure what sea foam will do but it is beond that piont, because my intake is full of oil, the AEM Dry filter is soaked. why would i have that much oil going into the intake? Is this a sign of the apex seals are shot???? or what els is broke to let oil back into the intake?

Vlaze

iTrader: (14)

If you're getting oil in the intake and have the problems you mentioned, chances are your SSV (secondary shutter valve) is sticking due to the oil residue build up. Jon did a thread on this a while back that shows a video and pictures when he disassembled the lower intake manifold showing the locked up valve and he had similar start-up/idling issues as well until they pulled apart the lower intake manifold and cleaned the valves entirely.

Our cars have oil residue coming from the breathing of the engine oil from certain ports. For '04-'-05, you should have a tube coming off the oil filler neck and going into the intake and this is causing your oil build up due to the oil vapors settling in your intake. Get an oil catch catch to reroute this hose to the can and cap it off at your intake with a vacuum cap.

Seafoam dissolves the carbon build up and will help free up your SSV and reduce the carbon on your rotors to help eliminate the problem and get some of that power back. You're going to need to remove the black upper intake manifold though to effectively spray the SSV with seafoam as the traditional way of applying it via the vacuum ports on the lower intake manifold will not reach the SSV which is above it. Make sure to give it an hour to work on the SSV before starting the car up. Also you're going to want a hand vacuum pump to apply to the SSV to get it to move back and forth so the seafoam gets all over it properly to help remove as much build up as possible. If you cannot get the valve to move when using the pump, then you definitely without a doubt have the issue stemming from the SSV being stuck.

However, the above said solution will just help free the SSV up after I had a discussion with Jon on this topic before; you will need to remove the lower intake manifold to disassemble the valves completely to clean them completely to prevent this from re-occurring.

See his thread https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-remove-ssv-beta-teaser-video-184663/page5/

avanti_racing08

well it looks like i will be taking it apart, thanks for the help i will be working on this for the next few hrs guys, i will keep you posted

avanti_racing08

Well the vavle move freely and takes about 10 vac on the gage to fully open the valves. i will still do the see foam to see if it works but if it dont the tommorrow it will be going to the shop to have a leak/ compression test done to it If it checks out then i will have to start from sq one again


Update

ok so i took everything apart, put it all back to gether, took it for a run down the road, I left the line off from the intake to the oil fill neck off, it sprayed so much oil out that im pritty sure it emtyed the oil pan and i only went 2 miles. Good thing i could go over 7k and doesnt smoke but that was more than likley due to the exsesive oil spilling in to the intake, that might be why i was having issuses

Why would there be so much pressure to let that oil out that way? i have never seen this ever on anything i have ever worked on. I really dont see a oil catch can would help b/c of the amount that came out. Any buddy got any clue?????

avanti_racing08

ok this is the issue, i have capped the oil fill neck and the intake. found that the oil pan was leaking so i took it down resealed it and let it cure. so i started it back up. when the motor got warm it it blew the rtv seal. and started leaking like before. so what could be causeing that much pressure to push the rtv seal out???

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Because you capped the oil filler neck fitting... what do you think that hose is there for?

avanti_racing08

guess you missed this part of the info, its not because i capped it off. its building pressure anyways capping it made it so it did come out the top and all over my engine bay or back threw the intake and fowl the pulgs and make it some at high rmps.. Any ways thanks for the help gusy i am at the point im just going to pull the motor and rebuild it. i have see before as a mechanic working on semis that when some seals go it alows the compression of the engine into other parts of the motor to build the pressure and cause things like oil in the fuel or over heating. i have a feeling that a seal went or i have a crack in the block some where to be building this pressure threw the compression of the motor.

This project wont happen till i get back from over seas, but this will give me a chance to build the race motor i have wanted to build.