jlf12345

Just a minor update, I did check if it was smoking at startup, or during reving, and it is not. Going to have Mazda give it an oil change, and see if the service rep will run the compression test on it before I do the tune-up.

Mazurfer

Ask the dealer not to just dump oil in it, but actually use the friggin dipstick the way it is meant to be used. And.....I know you believe you are having high oil consumption, but don't let them overfilll it is my point. That may lead to other issues, and a lot of dealer tech's tend to overfill.

We will be awaiting what they say.......so please update us once you know something.

jlf12345

I am scheduled for an appointment tomorrow, but I have a feeling they may try and use my carmax warranty for payment, and I am heading out of town for work tomorrow afternoon. I may delay the diagnostics till after the plugs/coils/wires to verify if I am still experiencing a lack of power (going to install this weekend if the parts come in). That way they cant say no to a compression test cause my coils and plugs are old.

The stupid carmax warranty has a 50/75 copay on it (50 at carmax/75 anywhere else) and I dont want to be shelling out money for no reason, especially if it is covered under the 8yr 100k mile warranty on the block itself.

maskedferret

iTrader: (1)

If the consumption is due to too much oil getting into the combustion chamber, wouldn't the spark plugs show evidence of fouling? Have you had a chance to take a look at them, considering you do say you're needing to change them soon.

jlf12345

I haven't swapped em yet, that's slated for this weekend. Sometimes it's a curse to have a 13 month old

Grungepup

iTrader: (2)

If you need any help, just let us know

jlf12345

Well, I did my tune up. I think the pics will speak for themselves.

Front Leading Plug:


Front Trailing Plug:


Rear Leading Plug:


Rear Trailing Plug:


As you can see, the front rotor plugs are fouled heavily. It doesn't really show much in the wonderful iPhone 3GS pics, but the trailing front plug was oily. So, basically, either my OMP is pumping a boatload of oil, and my rear injectors are clogged, OR my front rotor is leaking oil like the Titanic took on water. Mind you, this oil consumption has only been bad for the last 2 weeks. I took it for a spin after replacing the plugs, and resetting the computer. When I got on the highway, I kept it in second gear, and after about a minute or two of riding second @ 60-65mph, I got a flashing CEL. I am guessing its either air-fuel related, and my O2 sensors are boned from the excessive oil leaking in the engine. Next stop, Mazda Dealer...

jlf12345

Well, the dealership ran the compression tests. Looks like its time for a new engine. Last I heard from them, they will be filing the warranty paperwork, but I have not heard if it will or wont be covered.

Definitely the motor, they said the front rotor failed compression tests, which i believe, as 1-2 quarts per 200 miles is crazy... plus those spark plugs were BAD from the front rotor.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Well as long as you have maintenance records you should be good. Who is handling your case at North Park?

jlf12345

Shawn's last week was last week. Right now, Joshua is handling it, I don't remember seeing him there much before, but my memory sucks. I know Al handled the last engine replacement 1.5 years ago (@42k miles). We shall see if they want to play nice... if not, I'll be breaking out the angry stick...

Ironically, all the major services, I've had performed by engine replacements... O.o

I haven't made it 30k miles yet on an engine for the coolant flushes, and I do the oil changes at North Park so they are on record

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

You should be good. Shawn quit? wow, he has been there since I got my car years ago. The remans are hit or miss, my first one lasted 75,000 miles, this one has 20k or so on it now.

jlf12345

Got my new engine, only thing I had to pay for was one of the motor mounts. We shall see how she does after the engine break-in

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

You should have broke her in with us yesterday during the Texas8.

t.swain

Did you ever find out what the actual problem for the oil consumption was?
I see you just had your engine replaced. I'm having the same problem as you but my car passed a compression test last week even with a bad starter cranking at 178rpm

Banshee8

See the quote below, I'm having high consumption... It's been a problem for about 4 months... I've been using heavy oil, 10w30 for about six months. Could the viscosity be causing the system to rev up consumption in some way I'm not familiar with? Would this happen with a heavier than spec oil? I'm inclined to think so, because there is no oil in my exhaust, no ground spotting... AND it's weird that long hot trips exhibit little oil consumption, whereas short, cold commutes are causing me to put in at LEAST a quart every fill up.

EDIT: 2005 87k on the odo. No coolant consumption

Quote:
Originally Posted by invasion08
NO.16 HIGH OIL CONSUMPTION/LEAKAGE

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


BHE010300103W18



16

HIGH OIL CONSUMPTION/LEAKAGE

DESCRIPTION
The oil consumption is excessive.
POSSIBLE CAUSE
• Air cleaner element malfunction (damaged, poor installation)
• Improper dipstick
• Improper engine oil viscosity
• Engine internal parts malfunction
• Metering oil pump malfunction
• Improper operation of metering oil pump control system
• Oil leakage from lubrication system parts and them joints (oil pump, oil filter, oil cooler, housing oil nozzle, manifold oil nozzle etc.)


Diagnostic procedure


STEP

INSPECTION

RESULTS

ACTION

1 Inspect for the following:
• External leakage (lubrication system parts and their joints.)
• Proper dipstick
• Proper engine oil viscosity
• Damaged and/or poor installation air cleaner element
Are all the items normal? Yes Go to the next step.
No Service if necessary.
Repeat Step 1.
2 Perform the metering oil pump control inspection.
(See Metering Oil Pump Control Inspection.)
Does the metering oil pump control properly? Yes Overhaul the engine and repair or replace the malfunctioning parts.
(See Engine Workshop Manual.)
No Repair or replace the malfunctioning parts, according to the metering oil pump control inspection results.
3 Verify test results.
• If normal, return to the diagnostic index to service any additional symptoms.
• If the malfunction remains, inspect the related Service Information and perform the repair or diagnosis.