morkusyambo

Actually the front sensor was where the wideband wire used to be. I know I said the rear one earlier, but I was wrong. Today I am going to pull the "circuit" fuse and try to crank. After that I will pull the front 02 sensor and try to crank.

Thanks for all of the help guys.

morkusyambo

I pulled the circuit fuse and tried cranking that way minus the 20A pump fuse and with. Neither way blew the problem child. Once I reinstalled the circuit fuse the car fired up and idled for @15 sec before dying. Once again the egi/comp 1 fuse had blown.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Have you had any work done to the fuel pump?
Reason I ask is because after those relays, the circuit goes straight to the fuel pump.

Have you tried disconnecting the O2 sensors as others suggested above?
That is a more likely suspect than the fuel pump (if its never been messed with).
I know the CIRCUIT relay is on a different circuit past the fuse, but maybe a signal isn't sent to the O2 sensors unless a certain condition is met and you pulling the relay is preventing the PCM from reading the sensors.
Now I could be completely wrong on this assumption... just trying to look at all possibilities since I don't know the behavior of the PCM.

But I would rule out the real obvious and disconnect the O2 sensors before moving on past the relays (plus it'll be easier).

morkusyambo

Actually, I have done work to the fuel pump. I originally thought it was bad due it being the original w/@ 110000 miles, 30k of which were boosted. I exchanged it with a used pump that has @30k on it. I also stuck at 6/12 volt test meter into each wire going into the pump when I was testing it for power.

I know I reconnected all the wires before putting the pump back in the tank. If I had missed something, the car wouldn't crank/idle at all....would it??

Is it possible that a pinched wire inside the tank/connected to the pump might be causing a short??

Mazurfer

Ah ha............now the truth comes out!
How long ago was this pump put in?
How long after this pump was put in did this issue of blowing the EGI CONP show up?
In fairness, I haven't looked at the wiring schematic as Jon, Ray, and Swoope were all over it and no sense in confusing the issue.

morkusyambo

The pump was put it after the car died last year. I don't know if the current issue started before, or after that. Your input is welcome Dave.

Charles R. Hill

iTrader: (7)

I will be seeing The Great (Big-Headed) One in a little while so I am sure he and I will discuss this problem and I will contact Morkus as soon as I can.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Wow... how did I miss this yesterday...
Sucks that we now have this variable with the fuel pump since it has been handled.

Thanks Charles for helping out with this one... I'm not really as knowledgeable with the fuel pump since I've only taking it out once... thanks again for the tool BTW
So Charles and "The Great" I'm sure will give you better advise on what to look for.

morkusyambo

The pump works as long as that fuse doesn't blow.

dvaldez0919

has anybody figured out what the issue is? i am having the sameissue with mine...i am also blowing the d/lock fuse and audio...any insight would be gratly appreciated. i will try to take the pump relay out and do all the steps listed

morkusyambo

No luck yet. One of these days I'll get around to going line by line with a voltmeter. I am working south of DC now and my car is parked in NC. Oh well.

Goofy

So this is super late to the party, but here's my story with the same fuse:

Car stalled. Failed to restart it. Towed to dealership. They sent me away with new plugs, a new fuse and a new battery (I needed it last year and forgot -- amazed I lasted this long.)

Took a 60 mile drive. Stalled at the exit -- blown fuse. Got new fuse (and some spares) came home. Blown fuse. Replaced. Looked at this thread.

Brought it to the original dealership with the hunch that it was the O2 sensor. Shop looked at it. My heat shield on my cat had started walking because the bolts keeping it tight were now in rusted holes! The heat shield shorted a few of the lines coming from the O2 sensor, causing it to blow. No O2 sensor until Wednesday but the shop secured everything so that my heat shield and sensor lines should not meet again and the new sensor will go in later this week.

Blown EGI CONP 1? Don't forget to check the O2 sensor and the wires leading to it.

(BTW -- I paid out the nose for this one because I was in a rush and am taking a 100 mile, each way, trip in two and a half hours.)

morkusyambo

Which O2 sensor? Front or Rear?

skc

I got home after a long drive and the car cut out in the driveway. Eventually, diagnosed that i had a blown EGI Conp 1 fuse.

When i disconnected the front O2 sensor the fuse stopped blowing. So new sensor has been ordered.

morkusyambo

Yep. It was the O2 sensor. On the bright side my car has 60k less miles than it would have from sitting for a few years.

I have been driving around the neighborhood with the O2 sensor disconnected. No muss, no fuss.

Mygirldrivesstick

So all those years went by and all you had to do was unplug the o2 sensor?

morkusyambo

Just to clarify the end result for my situation, the car needed a new front O2 sensor. Once I installed that the problem went away.

StealthTL

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for getting back to us, it's nice to get closure on an issue, and helpful for future troubleshooting.

TheRedRotor

I've now read this thread about 5 times along with every other thread related to blowing this fuse, now here's my story.

Id just finished my rebuilt earlier this winter, finally good weather and putting some break in kilometers on the build, all is well. after about 295km i was on a late night cruise and my car died after i made a right turn and was accelerating up a hill (no higher then 3500rpm for break in). Towed it to my shop and noticed no fuel pump operation, after some digging i found another person on the forums saying his SSV seized and it was blowing this fuse so i checked and sure enough my EGI COMP 1 was blown however ssv was not seized. replaced the fuse and on the drive home it occurred again, good thing i had a spare fuse with me.

Now knowing why my car died ive been working for the last few weeks on diagnosing said issue with no luck. ive pulled apart and tested basically every single component in the circuit, i also replaced my "CIRCUIT" relay thinking the relay itself may be sticking closed. the reason im having such trouble with my diagnosis is that mine only blows under load at roughly 3krpm after ive been driving for a few minutes and the car is already warm. I tried to simulate the conditions in my garage with the back end on jack stands and I could not. one thing in found in my testing is my rear o2 resistance value is a little high but i dont see any exposed wires or signs of a short. my question is anyone have any ideas? The o2 draws current at all times when the car is running so if it was an o2 wouldnt it blow while cranking like most others? this zppezrs to be a switched short which is leading me down the path to PCM.

I have tested the AIR, SSV, VDI solenoids, PURGE solenoid, both o2s and my OMP and ive only found my rear o2 resistance to be out of spec and no opens to PCM connector or continuity to ground on any of the control circuits so Im pretty confident my wiring harness is good. any and all help appreciated i just wanna drive my damn car this year! thanks everyone. If necessary i have all the wiring diagrams and tests ive performed

TheRedRotor

would also like to ad i had a p0661 occur after the first fuse blowing, if i keep the car under 3k i can drive it and after i drove it home with my hazards on at 20km/h i had a p0661 permanent code. DTC description says if the pcm detects under 5.8v on the SSV solenoid control circuit twice in 2 drive cycles it will set the code but my ssv solenoid tested okay, harness is not showing any signs of issue and mechanically no fault found. I also removed the fuse and placed my meter in series with the circuit and used a scanner to actuate the VDI and SSV solenoid valves and both drew no more then 0.28-0.3A

Shpe1482

question- the connector that is connected to the fuel pump resistor, should it have electricity in it ?

Jeantst

Hey man, i have the exact same problem, i replaced it with a 15amp but it still happens under load especially on the highway, did you ever found what was the problem on this? i've looked everywhere but can't seem to find it. I would really appreciate your help.

TheRedRotor

Hey buddy, my case turned out to be downstream o2 sensor shorting out to the chassis after installing my BHR mid pipe. I was chasing this issue for months and resorted to unplugging 1 component on that circuit, going for a drive, and seeing if a fuse blew. If so, I plugged it back in, replaced the fuse, and then unplugged something else and tried again. Process of elimination, once I unplugged the rear o2 I was fine and closer inspection showed frayed and exposed wiring touching the body. Blown fuses are always a short to ground. Short to power keeps components on when they shouldn't be and typically cause a parasitic draw.

Jeantst

Thanks a lot for the quick response ! i will be checking that soon then !

TheRedRotor

No problem! Good luck to you, if your symptoms are identical to mine, thoroughly inspect both o2 sensors. If you need, I have all the wiring diagrams, circuit info and connector pin-out diagrams for this circuit. I printed them all and have them saved in a binder