EGI CONP 1 fuse
 

when i tried to start my car the egi conp 1 fuse blows, does anybody know what is on this circuit. i have recently reinstalled my gear box and BHR coil packs, the first time i tried to turn on my car i blew the main 120 amp fuse, could this have blown the resistor for the fuel pump, any help would be great thank you.

blowing the main fuse means a direct short in your power supply, i've seen that fuse blow and take the harness with it even tho the fuse should protect it. The salesmen here reverse jump cars and mix up terminals all the time which is why ive seen it before.

kevin.

that doesn't explain why it happen:p though. I assume the terminal on tor of the alternator is positive. If so i suspect thats why it blew in the first place but its not blowing anymore. The problem is the egi comp 1. What's on this circuit

EGI Comp 1 is just one of the three 'fuel control' fuses.

To blow the main 120amp, you grounded the alternator?

S

Yeah the alternator had been grounded at the time, its sorta a long story. bits being put back together wrong after all the work that was done. Ill look at the wiring diagram youve sent me, thanks for your help

Ok i got the wiring diagram its like double dutch, so ill print it out and look over it properly. But could the fuel pump fuse have blown and therefore this be the cause.

Ive been told to put a 12v supply on the fuel pump, but i know this circuit only powers the fuel pump relay, there is another circuit called fuel pump which is why i dont understand fuelly what this circuit does

Did you figure it out? I am currently blowing the EGI/COMP1 fuse every time I try to start the motor.

Try this... pull the fuel pump relay (low pressure) and then attempt to start the car and see if the fuse blows.

Are you referring to the larger, blue colored relay?? What would this test help me determine??

Yes... its the larger blue relay.

We are doing this to see what circuit is causing the fuse to blow:
Attachment 155696

The guys on the Pettit S/C thread seem to think it may be a shorting-out O2 sensor harness.

^Good call... looking at the electrical diagram that is very possible.
If the fuse still blows with the Fuel Pump relay removed, then the O2 sensor is definitely the next component to look at.
Thanks for jumping in Charles!

Thanks for the help guys. Ray, I've been trying to get in contact with you.

-Adam

I pulled the blue fuse labled "pump" which was located bottom left if you're looking inside the engine bay from the front of the car. The egi/comp1 fuse did not blow while this and the 20A fuel pump fuse were removed. I then installed the 20A fuel pump fuse with the blue relay still out and once again the egi/comp1 fuse did not blow. After reinstalling the blue relay, the car briefly fired up and then immediately died. This time the egi/comp1 fuse had blown. This is the 5th one in 2 days. Just for good measure I tried it with a 15A and had the same result. Make that 6 fuses in 2 days.

I took a look at my rearmost O2 sensor. I haven't had a cat for some time. About a year and a half ago I spliced into the blue O2 sensor wire with the intent of installing a LC1 wideband. I never did and snipped off the wire that would have gone to the wideband controller. There is a small section roughly 2mm in length of the blue sensor wire that is exposed right above the rear O2 sensor. Do you suppose that could be causing the short/surge to the egi/comp 1 fuse?? If so, could I just add some solder to the exposed area and cover it with some "shrink" wrap??

-Adam

OK... if it did not blow with the relay removed, then it might not be an O2 sensor since that is on a different circuit.
Look for another relay that is similar and install that where the fuel pump relay goes.
Don't use the Main Relay (EGI) since you'll need that to test this.
And don't swap the relays, meaning just keep the relay for the fuel pump out instead of swapping it with the other you're going to use.
Don't want to use a "questionable" relay somewhere else where it can blow a different fuse.
This will test if the relay itself is shorted.

Edit: I just read your 2nd paragraph above... yes, go back over the wire you messed with and solder it, along with shrink wrap.
Even if its not causing your problem, you should never have exposed wire.

I rechecked the relays. They are good. I made sure the wire on the front O2 sensor was no longer exposed. I tried to crank and the car fired up and died immediately just like before. The 10A fuse was (of course) blown again.

My apologies.... I didn't realize at first they labeled the fuel pump low pressure relay 'CIRCUIT' and that is the one I originally wanted you to pull.
The one you pulled is the fuel pump speed control relay, which is tied into the same circuit as the other.
You'll need to check both relays and the wires going to and from.
And when I say check, don't just look at them and say, "looks OK" (you'll be surprised how many times I've been told that), you need to go down and check each section for continuity/shorts.
Here is a diagram to help:
Attachment 155708

Did you want me to pull the CIRCUIT relay and try to crank the car with it out??

As far as the blue relays themselves, I purchased extras from mazmart and tested them before installing. If you mean for me to trace wires underneath the relays, I have never done that before and would need some instruction.

I have now fired up(including priming the pump) the motor at least 3 times today. Do you think I am running the risk of flooding and/or fouling out my brand new spark plugs??

if it is starting unlikely..

how about take the wide band out of the loop. see what happens..

beers :beer:

How do I do that?

That means to disconnect the front O2 sensor.

From the exhaust, or do I need to remove a particular fuse/connection??

Unplug the front O2 sensor from the harness on the topside rear of the engine. It is the gray connector near the oil filter (somewhat difficult to disconnect). This will put the PCM in open-loop mode, and you'll see 16-17:1 A/F ratios at idle, but the engine will run.

adam,

the issue brettus and i had were with the rear o2 sensor.. seems that is where you wideband is?

just wondering..


my point is take that out of the loop..

beers :beer: