EGI CONP 1 fuse
02-22-2009, 01:32 PM
#1
CraigRX8
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EGI CONP 1 fuse
when i tried to start my car the egi conp 1 fuse blows, does anybody know what is on this circuit. i have recently reinstalled my gear box and BHR coil packs, the first time i tried to turn on my car i blew the main 120 amp fuse, could this have blown the resistor for the fuel pump, any help would be great thank you.
02-22-2009, 01:50 PM
#2
Certified Mazda Tech
blowing the main fuse means a direct short in your power supply, i've seen that fuse blow and take the harness with it even tho the fuse should protect it. The salesmen here reverse jump cars and mix up terminals all the time which is why ive seen it before.
kevin.
kevin.
02-22-2009, 03:35 PM
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CraigRX8
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that doesn't explain why it happen:p though. I assume the terminal on tor of the alternator is positive. If so i suspect thats why it blew in the first place but its not blowing anymore. The problem is the egi comp 1. What's on this circuit
02-22-2009, 04:15 PM
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CraigRX8
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Yeah the alternator had been grounded at the time, its sorta a long story. bits being put back together wrong after all the work that was done. Ill look at the wiring diagram youve sent me, thanks for your help
02-23-2009, 03:31 PM
#6
CraigRX8
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Ok i got the wiring diagram its like double dutch, so ill print it out and look over it properly. But could the fuel pump fuse have blown and therefore this be the cause.
Ive been told to put a 12v supply on the fuel pump, but i know this circuit only powers the fuel pump relay, there is another circuit called fuel pump which is why i dont understand fuelly what this circuit does
Ive been told to put a 12v supply on the fuel pump, but i know this circuit only powers the fuel pump relay, there is another circuit called fuel pump which is why i dont understand fuelly what this circuit does
04-30-2010, 01:33 PM
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I pulled the blue fuse labled "pump" which was located bottom left if you're looking inside the engine bay from the front of the car. The egi/comp1 fuse did not blow while this and the 20A fuel pump fuse were removed. I then installed the 20A fuel pump fuse with the blue relay still out and once again the egi/comp1 fuse did not blow. After reinstalling the blue relay, the car briefly fired up and then immediately died. This time the egi/comp1 fuse had blown. This is the 5th one in 2 days. Just for good measure I tried it with a 15A and had the same result. Make that 6 fuses in 2 days.
I took a look at my rearmost O2 sensor. I haven't had a cat for some time. About a year and a half ago I spliced into the blue O2 sensor wire with the intent of installing a LC1 wideband. I never did and snipped off the wire that would have gone to the wideband controller. There is a small section roughly 2mm in length of the blue sensor wire that is exposed right above the rear O2 sensor. Do you suppose that could be causing the short/surge to the egi/comp 1 fuse?? If so, could I just add some solder to the exposed area and cover it with some "shrink" wrap??
-Adam
I took a look at my rearmost O2 sensor. I haven't had a cat for some time. About a year and a half ago I spliced into the blue O2 sensor wire with the intent of installing a LC1 wideband. I never did and snipped off the wire that would have gone to the wideband controller. There is a small section roughly 2mm in length of the blue sensor wire that is exposed right above the rear O2 sensor. Do you suppose that could be causing the short/surge to the egi/comp 1 fuse?? If so, could I just add some solder to the exposed area and cover it with some "shrink" wrap??
-Adam
04-30-2010, 01:41 PM
#15
OK... if it did not blow with the relay removed, then it might not be an O2 sensor since that is on a different circuit.
Look for another relay that is similar and install that where the fuel pump relay goes.
Don't use the Main Relay (EGI) since you'll need that to test this.
And don't swap the relays, meaning just keep the relay for the fuel pump out instead of swapping it with the other you're going to use.
Don't want to use a "questionable" relay somewhere else where it can blow a different fuse.
This will test if the relay itself is shorted.
Edit: I just read your 2nd paragraph above... yes, go back over the wire you messed with and solder it, along with shrink wrap.
Even if its not causing your problem, you should never have exposed wire.
Look for another relay that is similar and install that where the fuel pump relay goes.
Don't use the Main Relay (EGI) since you'll need that to test this.
And don't swap the relays, meaning just keep the relay for the fuel pump out instead of swapping it with the other you're going to use.
Don't want to use a "questionable" relay somewhere else where it can blow a different fuse.
This will test if the relay itself is shorted.
Edit: I just read your 2nd paragraph above... yes, go back over the wire you messed with and solder it, along with shrink wrap.
Even if its not causing your problem, you should never have exposed wire.
Last edited by Jon316G; 04-30-2010 at 01:51 PM.
04-30-2010, 05:28 PM
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I rechecked the relays. They are good. I made sure the wire on the front O2 sensor was no longer exposed. I tried to crank and the car fired up and died immediately just like before. The 10A fuse was (of course) blown again.
04-30-2010, 05:52 PM
#17
My apologies.... I didn't realize at first they labeled the fuel pump low pressure relay 'CIRCUIT' and that is the one I originally wanted you to pull.
The one you pulled is the fuel pump speed control relay, which is tied into the same circuit as the other.
You'll need to check both relays and the wires going to and from.
And when I say check, don't just look at them and say, "looks OK" (you'll be surprised how many times I've been told that), you need to go down and check each section for continuity/shorts.
Here is a diagram to help:
The one you pulled is the fuel pump speed control relay, which is tied into the same circuit as the other.
You'll need to check both relays and the wires going to and from.
And when I say check, don't just look at them and say, "looks OK" (you'll be surprised how many times I've been told that), you need to go down and check each section for continuity/shorts.
Here is a diagram to help:
04-30-2010, 06:15 PM
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Did you want me to pull the CIRCUIT relay and try to crank the car with it out??
As far as the blue relays themselves, I purchased extras from mazmart and tested them before installing. If you mean for me to trace wires underneath the relays, I have never done that before and would need some instruction.
As far as the blue relays themselves, I purchased extras from mazmart and tested them before installing. If you mean for me to trace wires underneath the relays, I have never done that before and would need some instruction.
04-30-2010, 06:18 PM
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I have now fired up(including priming the pump) the motor at least 3 times today. Do you think I am running the risk of flooding and/or fouling out my brand new spark plugs??
05-01-2010, 11:34 AM
#24
Unplug the front O2 sensor from the harness on the topside rear of the engine. It is the gray connector near the oil filter (somewhat difficult to disconnect). This will put the PCM in open-loop mode, and you'll see 16-17:1 A/F ratios at idle, but the engine will run.