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The Truth About Full Synthetics and Rotaries

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Old 12-15-2012, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by alnielsen
Unless you tell the dealer that your using syn oil, they aren't going to know the difference. They don't run test on the oil before hand to know what you have in there. The only thing they are concerned with is the oil level.
They're interested in oil level and also records showing that the car was maintained. The tales here of denied engine replacments begin with missing oil change records or records showing that synthetic oil was used. I recall one thread where the poster had his oil changed at a Firestone or Goodyear (or similar place) and the receipts showed synthetic oil was used one time.

So if you're going to use synthetic oil you also need synthetic receipts showing that dino oil was used.

Question. The post that started this thread was post #1 by that poster. It also looks like a pretty blatant product promotion. Any reason the OP was not banned and this thread expunged?

I do not question the actions (or not) of the moderators...I only seek understanding.

Ken
Old 12-15-2012, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by User24
Would you rather change oil at 1000 mile intervals on basic GTX, or 3000 miles on RP?

I know which one I'd rather do.
I change the oil on my Turbo Rotary every 1500-2000 miles.

On a non turbo Rotary I have no problem running 3K miles.

Personally, I would rather run a Dino oil and save the money, since I am changing oil so much.

Plus, I was under the impression the Synthetic Oils do not burn well when pumped through the OMP.

Am I wrong in this assumption?
Old 12-15-2012, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Jims5543
...Plus, I was under the impression the Synthetic Oils do not burn well when pumped through the OMP.

Am I wrong in this assumption?
There's a cumulative synthetic oil thread with a couple of thousand posts that should have the definitive answer to that question. Probably several definitive answers.

Ken
Old 12-16-2012, 08:57 AM
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In other words, no consensus.

Thanks.
Old 12-16-2012, 09:18 AM
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If you look at the 100K thread with original engine and ask questions or search, you will find both, folks who have never used synthetic to folks who use it all the time. This tells me that both are safe. When I had the 04, it was common to see the frothy dipstick but I have never once seen it on my 09 so whatever the issue, it seems to have been resolved.
Old 12-16-2012, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Jims5543
In other words, no consensus.

Thanks.
Actually, many consensi. Which is even worse, or even more entertaining, depending on your sense of humor.

The opinions that matter to me are Mazda's, since I'm still under the 8 year engine warranty, and my wallet's, since I change oil every 3000 miles and the stuff looks just as clean coming out as it did going in.

Ken
Old 12-16-2012, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by ken-x8
Actually, many consensi. Which is even worse, or even more entertaining, depending on your sense of humor.

The opinions that matter to me are Mazda's, since I'm still under the 8 year engine warranty, and my wallet's, since I change oil every 3000 miles and the stuff looks just as clean coming out as it did going in.

Ken
Well, same here, I have an extended bumper to bumper for 5 years and 60K miles so I am at the mercy of the dealership. 3K miles changes with some interesting dialogue coming up when we come back into summer and I push for a heavier oil.
Old 12-16-2012, 11:41 AM
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I just clocked in at 90K miles on my original motor, compression test at 80k showed no issues.

Royal Purple 5-30 winter, 10-30 summer.

Idemitsu premix.

On my 3rd set of plugs and wires also (every 25k).
Old 12-16-2012, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Jims5543
Well, same here, I have an extended bumper to bumper for 5 years and 60K miles so I am at the mercy of the dealership. 3K miles changes with some interesting dialogue coming up when we come back into summer and I push for a heavier oil.
Warranty doth make cowards of us all.

And old age and decrepitude push us toward dealers rather than our own garages. Fortunately, my dealer has turned out to be very competent, and at this point in life I don't mind spending $30 for an oil change instead of crawling under myself.

I don't make an issue of the oil weight. But I have put off BHR ignition until my 8 years are up.

Ken
Old 12-16-2012, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by ken-x8
Warranty doth make cowards of us all.

And old age and decrepitude push us toward dealers rather than our own garages. Fortunately, my dealer has turned out to be very competent, and at this point in life I don't mind spending $30 for an oil change instead of crawling under myself.

I don't make an issue of the oil weight. But I have put off BHR ignition until my 8 years are up.

Ken
I am really lucky to have a great dealer too and better yet, a rotard for a tech. He helped me obtain parts 10 years ago when I was doing my REW swap in my FC.

We have a mutual respect for one another and he knows better than to try to play games with me. He knows that I know my way around my cars and there is no need to upsell me.
Old 12-16-2012, 09:22 PM
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I'm running Rotella T6 5W40 synthetic. Haven't had any uoa's done, but the 8 runs like a beastly champ on it and I felt a huge difference over the 5w20 Valvoline synthetic I used before.
Old 12-22-2012, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Jims5543
Well, same here, I have an extended bumper to bumper for 5 years and 60K miles so I am at the mercy of the dealership. 3K miles changes with some interesting dialogue coming up when we come back into summer and I push for a heavier oil.

Since the oil doesn't come in contact with the combustion chamber unless sprayed in there and ultimately burned and collected on the cat. Why would it ever get dirty or acid or breakdown prematurely?

The oil does 1/3 of the cooling and 100% of the sealing for compression. And fouls the $$ plugs every 35k too.

My concern for engine warrantee meant a trip to the dealer on sale every 3,000 miles for $20. They used 5-20W dino. My car had a new motor with 5000 miles on it when I bought it and 60k on the original cat.

I topped off with 5-20 dino every 900 miles/qt as I run the car hard autocrossing mostly or highway and never around a city. I was given a new cat at 60k miles when it started rattling due to melted guts.

Wonder how well synthetic burns in a cat? That was the concern I read somewhere that Mazda has. Note they burn synthetic in their race cars but they are without a cat.

My new engine warrantee is now up due to over 8 years on 2004. I still let the dealer change the 5-20 dino oil for $20 on sale but now top off with 5-30 dino since I live in FL and race high rpms twice a month year round. I am diluting 2-3 qts every 3000mi with the thicker oil. Just a thought.
Old 12-22-2012, 10:59 PM
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*sigh*

Do we need another one of these utter bullshit thread ?

a complete idiot (READ: OP) came in and left his retarded comment

now of course it ends up being another bullshit thread.

Can we close this already ?
Old 12-22-2012, 11:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Slidin8
You should use SlideSpeed engine oils because I said it's the best for rotarys and all other oils are ****
Dude !!!!! Brettspeed all the way ! Got a sticker to prove it :

Attached Thumbnails The Truth About Full Synthetics and Rotaries-23122012-001-.jpg  
Old 12-22-2012, 11:40 PM
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Brett, if you send me a sticker, i will rep that **** on my car lol
Old 12-23-2012, 02:53 AM
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lmao, ok, forget the failed op has made, i want that sticker!!!!
Old 12-23-2012, 06:08 AM
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Originally Posted by nycgps
lmao, ok, forget the failed op has made, i want that sticker!!!!
plus 1
Old 12-23-2012, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by nycgps
...a complete idiot (READ: OP) came in and left his retarded comment...
I wouldn't call him an idiot. Not in view of his success.

New member, first post, essentially a commercial for a product. Despite the first reply calling him on the plug, the thread has gone on for at least 40 posts. As a troll, that's good success. And, of course, he got away with the product plug without being a vendor.

Annoying, but not an idiot.

Ken
Old 12-23-2012, 08:40 AM
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ok, not an idiot, but an a-hole ?
Old 12-23-2012, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by twistedwankel
Since the oil doesn't come in contact with the combustion chamber unless sprayed in there and ultimately burned and collected on the cat. Why would it ever get dirty or acid or breakdown prematurely?
Combustion blow-by (via the side seals). What do you think the crankcase ventilation system is for?
Old 12-24-2012, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by PeteInLongBeach
Combustion blow-by (via the side seals). What do you think the crankcase ventilation system is for?
To equalize pressure.
Old 03-05-2013, 06:04 AM
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i find this thread intresting, i like to hear both sides of the story and apparently BHR & racingbeat also agrees the use of synthetic

http://black-halo-racing.myshopify.c...nd-maintenance

http://www.racingbeat.com/RX8/Engine...ion/11962.html

Last edited by Lvis; 03-05-2013 at 06:15 AM.
Old 03-05-2013, 11:55 PM
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seriously its ur car use whatever u want, dont need anyone to tell me what i can do to my damn car.

i use synthetics, last longer, burns clean, and i had no warramty issues, so bite me bitches!
Old 03-06-2013, 10:35 AM
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who the hell is OP?
Old 03-06-2013, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by WreakLoosE
who the hell is OP?
Oscar Pistorius?



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