olddragger

iTrader: (3)

yea I screwed up and dont know how to move the thread

team you are right--i am laughing at myself. Seems like it always cost me more money for some reason.
But I am trying to find a good decent plug thats cheap.
i may have found a traiing plug for under 10 bucks. The 21.5 mm reach on the leading is a little harder to deal with.
Its a LOT of stuff out there to weed through.
OD

ASH8

Denny,
Sorry man, I was not (well I hope) I did not insult you, I was in a grumpy mood this morning.

I thought like many the S2 sub-forums were are a good idea, but if those who volunteer and control the forum don't move threads then this one will become crap (IMO), and defeats the purpose of having it....perhaps that is what some are hoping for...perhaps if this does not work there could be a mandatory vehicle "type" incorporated in user's Avatar info that must be included in user details before you can post...like a small colored box that says S1 or S2.
That way for those who don't have a sig, contributors don't need to ask what car they are talking about or own??...I dunno!

ON Spark Plugs...from what I know in the past Denny the original NGK plugs have always been the best for rotaries...yep they are expensive, try living here around $300 plus for a set.
A Mazda Dealer here pays $42.80 Each Cost per plug! 'Genuine' from Mazda Australia!!

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

rest easy mate-no problems here.
I am really trying to figure out what makes rotary plugs so special, others make a oblique or side point electrodes/straps--so what is so special?
Heck even some of the racing plugs are not iridium. Iridium last a long time but there are better performance metals out there.
Search continues.
OD

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

i spoke with Brisk who displayed some interest in developing a rotary engine plug---we shall see--in the meantime i am experimenting in making my own.
OD

Charles R. Hill

iTrader: (7)

Race parts and street, or even performance, parts are two vastly different contexts.
Which metals might you have in mind?

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Its expensive because its not mass produce.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Nycaps--Iridium plugs can be had for $8 for other makes.
other than the size there is nothin special about these plugs. I think we are getting ripped off.

Ray
copper itself is a better conductor
Silver is the best.

After fitting many many ngk plugs into old rotor housings (make sure yall CLEAN your spark plug holes)--i have found that all spark plugs of the same make are not identical.

What do yall think about running the leading without a washer--has anyone looked?
OD

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

for what ends ?

Charles R. Hill

iTrader: (7)

There is far more to spark plug design than electrical conductivity. Spark plugs and ignition coils tend to be designed to work with each other, too, but Mazda (apparently) overlooked something when designing the RX-8 ignition system.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

I never had any problem with it, but did run different spark wires

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

In general, the closer the firing point to the rotor the more power output

see the earlier quoted note from Mazda Motorsports regarding the NGK racing plugs, but you need a seal so other than using the thinner part number listed earlier I wouldn't drop it out entirely

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

exactly team. thanks.
With the stock washer the grounding strap/bar and electrode are imho to recessed from the combustion chamber. I havent measured it yet, but I will, just to give others an idea of what I have seen.
Mazda probably designed it this way to keep anyone from accidently not placing a washer on the plug and then having the plug end hitting the apex seal as it goes by?

A thinner washer would place the plug end closer to the chamber and in therory improve the effectiveness of the spark?

It also seems to me also, that some grounding stap modifications could improve things just a bit.

Maybe with getting the plug end closer-- indexing may become more important?

It surprises me that the thread end of the NGK plugs are not universal to the placement of the grounding strap. In other words the leading plugs, after being torqued, will have the grounding strap/bar facing in different directions that varies from plug to plug.
I am speaking of the oem plugs ---I havent really looked at the racing/colder plugs ---yet. But I will.
I wonder if a silicone sealer substitute for a washer?
It would be better to have a 5/8 hex head versus a 13/16 also?

It also surprises me that people are not cleaning the old anti seaze off of the the sparkplug hole area and it is also getting in the "recessed" area at the end.
This restricts the plugs of being properly inserted. It will torque out before it reaches full insertion dept.

It is easy to see the advantage of the flat top plugs (especially without a washer) in regard of getting the spark closer to the intake charge. It sure would be great if they could last longer. But for a track day dedicated set of leading sprak plugs ---this may be the way to go. They are cheap and plentiful.
These is interesting.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Silicone sealer, srsly?

Razz1

Hay.... come on..... he had a few Jack Daniels.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Nope --no JD's but a couple shots of Moonshine (home brewed and damn good) will do the same thing.
My mind "wanders" some and I have to go get it and bring it back.