Nope, I try to keep it under 3k before the car is warmed up. Usually I start the car (car starts fine), and wait for the idle to drop a bit before moving the car (30 seconds to a minute). As I'm waiting, the CEL starts flashing. Once the idle drops and the car starts warming up, the CEL stops blinking and I head off on my way.

Not sure why, but when I went to move the car to change the spark plugs, the issue didn't occur. The old plugs looked fine, but I put the new ones in anyways. Not sure if the plugs have had an effect yet, I haven't had a chance to try a cold start since installing them.

 

Look what my 05 Rx8 did this morning.
Noticed an issue last night, went to stomp on it, WOT. The car fell on its face, backfired as if power got cut off than kicked in and snapped my head back. I was like wtf.
This morning tried it again, 2nd gear rolled on slow to 6krpm and stomped on it and boom fell on its face and gave me this.
Plugs,coils,wires were new March 2013. 30,000kms ago
Giong to grab some new plugs & clean ssv/ess

 

Today i took my 8 out for a drive. I hit the road. After I had been driving for a few hours I decided to get my "daily red line" out the way, and I red lined while it was in 2nd gear. As i let off the throttle i noticed white smoke coming from the exhaust. i then noticed that my CEL was flashing. I took it to the shop right then and it read p0302. Started it up and it started fine. Idled a little bit harder than normal at first, but other than that it was driving fine.
There was also some liquid (looked like oil) all over my plugs,coils and the bottom of the engine bay.

I just want to know how how to fix this and about how much $$ will it cost me if do it myself.

 

It sounds like you just dumped a lot of oil into the intake, which got sucked into the engine making the engine stumble/misfire, and the oil burn off rapidly. You can pull off the UIM and get it cleaned out, and clean the intake valving accessible at the top of the LIM.

 

How would oil get dumped into the intake though?

 

The breather system on the early models apparently had something to do with this. Generally it's just from overfilling, but people have reported that at high rpms it the car just seems to spit oil through the line that is connected to the intake.

I guess a bad PCV could be the culprit, or bad rotor seals with overfilling/blowback.... regardless, look into getting a catch-can. That should help.

 

Pretty sure this is what is happening to me. Everything runs fine until I get to 6000 RPMs and then that Engine Light starts flashing at me. It's nightmarish since I bought the car 3 weeks ago knowing I had to replace Coils/Plugs/Wires and didn't make it 48 hours before those failed and blew the CAT. Lame.

These oughta work right?

Cleaning intake: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...titled-196310/
Catch Can: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...-basic-164463/

P.S. New CAT, New coils/plugs/wires, cleaned MAF Sensor, cleaning/resetting ESS this weekend.

Edit: 2005 GT MT w/34,000 miles

 

Hello guys yesterday did seafom in my car when I finish my rx8 never return to normal the idle I worsened and feels when you accelerate it to 3000 rpm you feel in the exhaust pipe as if it had a misfire but not cell did all the steps to do make the seafom this is the second time that I did and at the first time none of this happened the car was working well before this only happens when is not in load when drive everything is fine don't feel misfire anything more than Park it and accelerate it a bit you can hear the pop coming from exhaust please help

 

Seafoaming fouls the plugs. How old is your ignition (coils, wires, and plugs)

 

the (coils, wires, and plugs) have 14,000 miles buy them last year I check the plug were a bit dirty but they were in good conditions it strange is that before doing the seafom it was working fine and the other strange is not giving me any cel

 

CEL stands for "Check Engine Light", but it is more accurately "Check Emissions Light". It only monitors emissions related components, and most of them only in a way for emissions compliance.

You can not rely on the CEL for anything. If it is on, it tells you additional information, but you can not rely on it to tell you everything, or to even "open it's mouth". Most misfires are never detected by the ECU.


Start with the basics. Clean the MAF and ESS, reset the ESS. Give it a few drive cycles to rebuild fuel trims. Check for vacuum leaks, then move to testing the ignition to see if something failed early.

 

Ok, I have an 05 with 34,000 miles. It has a new cat, new coils/plugs/wires, cleaned the MAF, cleaned the ESS (and did reset). And I have been getting the flashing CEL on occasion between 6000 and 8000 rpms. The car doesn't feel like it is losing power though and it says "pending fault." One time the CEL stayed on but that was before I took apart and cleaned out my intake. Does the "pending fault" mean I am actually misfiring?


EDIT: I did a little bit of additional research. I found that a pending fault in this case means the ecu recognized one misfire and that the code will go away after one successful drive cycle. Can anyone confirm that it does in fact mean there was an actual misfire? Like I mentioned I didn't feel any loss in power at all when it happened, I should also add that the CAT temp did not rise any when it happened either. Is it possible the ecu could be reading a misfire when really there is none?

 

Grr.. I got another misfire problem...


I don't know what the hell it is...

Been thru the check list several times. Everything is good. Just annoyed with it...

The problem seems to only pop up when it's cool/cold out (50*f or cooler from what I been seeing)..
Basically, on my morning drives to work (4am cool/cold) if I push it pass 6krpms, I am almost guaranteed a flashing cell and sometimes a P0300. When I drive home (+70 degrees), I can beat on the engine relentlessly and not even a hiccup.... This has been going on since late January...

All data seems good, LTFT seems a bit high, sits around +7/+10 for the most part...
Maybe my MAF/AIT sensor is going bad? Intake temps never really look right, and the sensor itself seems to be damaged, although I don't see how it would affect it. I tried buying one off amazon... But the parts do not match physically...

Took a recent trip to Florida, 21-22mpgs cruising +80mph.

 

Sounds like a rich bog caused by the high trims and extra massflow due to the cold .

 

Recommendations?

 

You gotta get the fuel trims under load under control ..... if you reset the ECU so there is zero trim I'll bet you don't get the bog ....(till the trim builds again) . As far as what is causing the high trim ............. I think that is covered in this thread

Suggest you confirm by making a log of when it happens . Do something that tells you where in the log it happened straight after it happens . IE stop the log , put in the clutch and let rpm drop to idle .... etc
If the log shows afrs going to 11.1 (min reading for stock sensor) at that point ...................... it's a safe bet they are going even lower causing the bog.

 

Yeah, I know I have to get the LTFTs closer to ZERO, lol. The question is, why are they higher.

I reread the thread, but didn't see anything about fuel trims. I know positive fuel trims mean the car is adding more fuel than expected. Which would be caused by something along the lines of non-measured air getting into the engine (Vacuum leak/ MAF ). I monitor a/fs while I drive all the time via GOODBox, they usually sit in the 12's during WOT.


I'll run either torque or the AP and try to get a log tomorrow morning. Thanks for the help.

 

Is your car tuned ? have you fixed a leak since it was tuned ? is the maf pipe set up for laminar flow? have you got a vacuum leak ? is the maf dirty ? Is the maf faulty ? Is there a join in the wires to the maf ? Is the o2 sensor reading correctly?


Just a few of the possibilities off the top of my head

 

No the car is not on the stock map. But the only thing I have changed on the map in the pass year are minor things, mostly fan temps.

No leaks found.
Intake is stock, V-fad Disabled, WIX Air Filter
MAF has been cleaned numerous times, along with the ESS and the rests.

No code for the maf.. How else would I check?
I also am unaware of a way to accurately test the O2 other than it throwing a cell, or just replacing it and hoping for the best.

 

No maf scaling was done on the original tune ?

Borrow someone elses and see if STFT is trending negative when you restart.

It's very rare ... but i have actually come across a stock o2 sensor that was reading wrong .Usually they just flatline when they give up. Luckily there was another wide band sensor on that car and we could see both readings at once.
Probably something to swap out when all other possibilities have been tried.

I presume you know that there is more than one trim ? The one you are most interested in is the one under load ... but the one at idle is also good indicator to what is going on. A high positive trim at idle getting smaller under load would be a good indicator for a vacuum leak.

 

It's not much of a "Tune", some things were modified to my liking but not much else.

Idle, raised slightly.
Warm up idle a/f leaned a bit
Closed loop Exit loads raised for high speed cruising.
P0420 and Air Pump Codes, hidden (cat removed)
MOP rate slightly increased
Fan temps lowered
Dwell times changed for BHR ignition


That's about it.. I have toyed with other maps, changing things, but 99% of the time I'm running the stock map with adjustments mentioned above.

At idle LTFT is normally +4 (sometimes +7) STFT 0 / +-1

When I tried the other MAF (before I noticed the difference in the pick up tube), the car went a little crazy, very rough idle, STFT went to something like 25, don't recall if it was positive or negative.

 

If you do the log ............... you will be able to confirm if it is bogging rich .... or not . So that is where I would start.

 

I did the log this morning. Unfortunately, there was a good bit of traffic so I was only able to get one good pull thru 3rd gear. No flashing CEL. Should I still post the log?

The issue mostly shows up in 3rd or 4th gear WOT, +6k rpms

I also did a one min idle log when I got to work.

 

may as well ..... although if it didn't misfire ...................

 

Thanks