Yes, I would agree with that theory. However, I would suspect that any mechanical balance would remain consistent and become the baseline from which it would be looking for a difference.

 

True, unless its on a wear component in which case would become worse overtime.

I also can't see misfire effecting the rotation so much that a well balanced driveline would not smooth it enough to make it a mute occurrence.

I am researching Dwell characteristics as of now, as I am fairly confident that my OE coil misfires are due to my rich condition, but the BHR misfires are coming from another characteristic as well which I can only conclude to be a dwell issue upon higher RPM.

 

Rich conditions will trigger misfires. Although obvious, rich conditions arise due to too much fuel or too little air.

Troubleshooting a similar problem where the car would misfire under heavy load (going very rich), I pulled apart my intake (looked fine), then my UIM (looked fine too), then injectors. Had the injectors cleaned and flowed; all looked good except that the red injectors were flowing 50% more than spec. Since I didn't have a Cobb AP, I replaced the injectors and, voila, problem solved.

EDIT: This was done after confirming that plugs, wires, coils, etc, were in good condition.

 

Had my yellow injectors cleaned and flowed at pettit, and they are flowing much higher than what they should be. Sounds like a common symptom of the process from what I can read.

 

The interesting thing is that they don't leak and have a good spray shape but they start flowing much more than spec. I guess they wear out? I'd suggest you clean and flow all of them while you're at it.

If you have a Cobb, you should be able to adjust the flow table.

 

The issue is that most people get the spec wrong, plus what they actually flow in place under actual use conditions (within reason) is irrelevant for any competent tuner ...

the easiest and quickest way to diagnose the coils is per my test procedure in the DIY area

Also, the statement on Page 1 about a flashing CEL always being a misfire is not correct; the PCM always interprets and indicates what it perceives to be a misfire with a flashing CEL, but it can actually be any number of things

around 2006 the front engine end cover changed to fully enclose the ESS, earlier models are open ended on one half of the ESS body. Sometimes the ESS opening collects some grime over time and gets stuck inside on the later, fully enclosed cover requiring it to be "persuaded" out with some force.

 

I will see if I can find your DIY and will link it in the main post.

As for the statement you mention, please note that was a moderator whom added that in, in which I also believed it to be true so as I kept it included. The info here is good to know, I will definitely add it in to that main post as well.

Thanks Team

 

I have a 2005 Shinka With 45K Miles.
3 days ago my car wont start, i suppose there was flooded, i read and follow all the procedures to start the car and nothing happens. I decide to replace the spark plugs and Bingo the car start but the Horror Story begins at that moment, because i press the gas pedal and nothing happens my car doesnt accelerate and keep it at 2k RPM's. I decide to stop the engine and when i try to start again the same problem DON'T START !!!
I reset the PCM and the inmobilizer system and nothing happens, because i check my wires and the spark isn't continuos, this is the first time my car do this please i really need your help guys

 

Hi, if you have no spark with new plugs, and you have not changed coils & wires, I would suggest changing those also.
However, I'm fairly new to rotaries myself, and someone more knowledgeable may have a more detailed way for troubleshooting your problem.
Good luck!

 

You are correct. If you have tested the spark and it is not continuous, then you have issues down that line. I would recommend replacing the coils and wires as well, as the whole shebang should always be replaced.

The car may still be flooded as well, which is another reason it may not start. Generally we see that when a car is flooded, it can ruin not only the plugs but the coils as well, hence our recommendation to change both. How exactly did you reset the PCM? (What procedure did you use, as you may have reset something else, etc)

 

[QUOTE=FungsterRacing;4523882]You are correct. If you have tested the spark and it is not continuous, then you have issues down that line. I would recommend replacing the coils and wires as well, as the whole shebang should always be replaced.

The car may still be flooded as well, which is another reason it may not start. Generally we see that when a car is flooded, it can ruin not only the plugs but the coils as well, hence our recommendation to change both. How exactly did you reset the PCM? (What procedure did you use, as you may have reset something else, etc)[/QUOTE

I reset the PCM press in the brake 20 times.
The inmobilizer disconnecting the negative terminal with the switch ON position.
Today i check the coils and they are 3 whites, do you think thats the reason my car wont start and dont accelerate ?

Thanks for your help, im newbie with my rx8

 

It is clearly stated in the original post that white marks are NOT an indication of ignition health.
Only real way to verify is to get a coil tester here

However, it could be a lot of other issues. Read through the OP again and start a checklist and work your way down it.

 

What you have described is not resetting the PCM, please read over the initial thread to learn what the 20 brake stomp does. As RX8Soldier said, the white has nothing to do with bad coils.

Test the coils with a proper inductive timing light - As the thread says, you watch for the light repeating and blinking. If it is not consistent, cuts, out, nothing at all, etc., the coil is bad (or wire, but replace both always). This is your very first step to diagnosing and fixing

 

check them when they are hot (warm the car up)

 

Hi guys I am having problems with the idle is unstable and rough and occasionally stall I see several recommendations of clean MAF sensor I do it and the car remains the same no check engine light onbut notice something with the car running unplug the MAF sensor electric connector and the rpm go up to normal and it remains stable and does not stall in idle with the electric connector of the MAF sensor disconnected When I connect back again begins the bad idle and stalling This may be proof that my MAF sensor is bad or not ? thank you for the help


Sorry for my English

 

Replace the MAF. Doesn't hurt to check over the coils as well and get a compression check, but I would start with the MAF.

 

I would try disconnecting the battery for 10+ minutes and doing ess reset (20 brake stomp) because I was having rough idle/stalling and it fixed it.

 

Hi guys thanks for the help clean the MAF and put a new air filter and reset the ESS now the idle is much better only occasionally gets a little rough but I found the purge solenoid valve sounding click click constant in idle I search from the internet as it is that it works and I found that the purge solenoid valve must not be functional in idle only when the car is at high rpm It should work anyone has any idea placed let me know

 

Sudden onset misfire for first minute or so start up. For me it was a coolant leak in the engine block.

Just in case this helps someone find the problem:-

Had 3,000 on a reman engine all fine until went out one morning and very rough on start up. Switched off as worried. Tried about 30 mins later and fine.

Tried again later problem but on a hunch left it for 40 mins and started fine.

Realised that the engine would fire it even slightly warmed up.

Couldn't immediately see a problem so took it back to the dealer and they found the coolant leak.

(Even though the car had been stationary for over five hours when they tried it in the evening it fired up fine. The next moring they saw the problem - that is how funky it was.)

Don't know if this will help anyone but ...

 

I tried searching this, best I could, but to no avail.

If my misfire was due to bad coils, plugs etc and that issue caused the cat to die. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to make sure the new ignition system has fixed the problem? I can't just start the car up with a dead cat seeing as it would still run like crap and give me a misfire code.

Should I just remove the cat then start the car up?

Cat is under warranty so I will get Mazda to replace it but I wanted to do the coils and plugs first. I know the cat is dead just not sure how to determine if there are any other issues besides the cat after replacing coils.

 

You have three options:

1. Use a diagnostic scanner. Remove the cat, and verify the only posted code is for the rear O2 sensor--the car will run just fine. However, with the cat removed and no midpipe the car will be blood-out-the-ears loud. (Do not drive the car like this, the heat will be extremely destructive).

2. Get a replacement cat, should post zero codes with a healthy ignition.

EDIT: 3. Gut the cat and re-install. Verify the only code is the rear O2. This may violate the warranty depending on how picky your dealer is.

 

Car is a new to me '06 with about 95k mi.

I get a flashing CEL for the first few minutes after a cold start (ie after letting the car sit overnight), but then nothing after (CEL light remains off). Idle is steady and performance seems good. Code is P0302.

As part of a standard maintenance refresh, I've replaced the air filter, cleaned the MAF, changed oil and filter, installed a new BHR coil kit and plug wires, cleaned the ESS, disconnected the battery, and did the brake stomp procedure (although the oil pressure gauge never did its sweep, maybe I have an old ECU flash?). Compression test (when normalized to sea level) is good. Car passed emissions a week before I bought it.

The new spark plugs I ordered are coming in tomorrow, but the previous owner indicated they changed them about 6k ago. Assuming the current plugs look good and the new ones have no effect, what would be the next thing to investigate? I'm already planning on replacing the fuel pump, but I don't think its an issue since I would think fuel issues would show up at the higher revs.

 

What is the issue here? If you had the CEL pop up once, I wouldn't be too concerned about it as you've gone ahead and done quite a bit of preventative maintenance (+1 for getting a compression test). Unless there is a persisting problems with drive-ability, idle, power, CELs, etc., then I wouldn't be too concerned.

 

CEL has flashed for a few minutes on every cold start (except for one instance). Everything I've done so far seems to have had no effect.

 

Are you revving it up when it's not warmed up? That is what caused mine. it was about halfway warm and i revved to 5kish and it threw a flashing cel and i felt a loss of acceleration right then.