one major change occured that hasnt been mentioned--in doing this mod 9K converted from a flat plate type cooler to a tube type. Flat plate coolers are very restrictive. That plus banjo bolts and lenght of tubing will give you better flow and allow the pump to show its pumping ability (so increased pressure). Now just do the rear bypass(+front shims) mod, and use a filter with a higher bypass and you are complete. Good job and important findings.
9K gets a thumbs up from olddragger (not that means anything to anyone else!)
OD

 

Thanks OD, means a lot to me. So now is the question, how do I find the best filter with a higher bypass?

 

to start --just get the 09 mazda filter--its pretty good and has the higher bypass.

Oh by the way have you noticed any changes in your coolant temps?
OD

 

Thanks for the info, will do. Honestly OD, my coolant temps have been about the same. But I am taking a road trip in the morning so i will have lots of data for you guys tomorrow.

 

sweet--have safe holiday trip.
OD

 

It's OK, but what about when the OC bypasses are in closed position, and the oil avoid the coolers? Why don't we see higher oil pressure then?
For this reason I think the restriction is occured in the oil pipeline between the coolers and the engine, or it happen in the OC thermo bypasses in and out oil feeding drilling.

 

Okay guys here is some data from my 150 trip to my parents. Most of teh data points are at a stop because my data logger (my son) was sleeping. Some are after brief stops so the coolant temp dropped a bit. Anyway here you go.

 

Lookin good, 9k. From what I could tell, the bottom of the cooler has a 1/2-3/4" high lip/tab, correct? I would cut the bit of excess off just to maximize the flow.

If I ever take this route, I might actually cut out the bottom half of the bumper support, mount the cooler there, and open up the grille mesh (though a mazdaspeed bumper is most ideal).

 

Funny you say that because we attempted to "cut" it off (ahem grungepup and Hoss-05) but it turned into a jagged mess, We were able to clean it up but there is still a 1/4" lip and the rear to deal with. My father and and I will be cutting it off properly this weekend.

 

Your OP (everything) looks pretty consistent (v good)...how do they compare to ones before the new cooler?...can't recall which thread you put them in?

 

mine is like that until the higher rpms.
OD

 

Wait - You got higher oil pressure after fitting this cooler and you are saying that is a good thing ?
Have not read the thread but my logic says that you must have placed aditional restriction on the system if that happened - which would not be a good thing .
I Could be missing something

 

Here are some numbers before the cooler. The main thing I have noticed aside from the max oil pressure increase is that the numbers have stabilized a bit. Before pressures seemed to be a little (emphasize a little) inconsistent. Temperatures were pretty stable the 290 miles or so I drove. I got about 20MPG.



And here is my latest from the trip back tonight.

 

Well, some (myself) believe low oil pressure had contributed to some of the problems with the S1 Renesis. There has been a substantial increase in oil pressure on the S2 Renesis.

 

well that may be so but is our system designed to flow the same as a S2 at that pressure ?

 

I am running shorter, larger, more direct high quality hoses and fittings and a real oil thermostat to a high quality cooler. What could possibly be damaged by an extra 10-15PSI max? i take the risk because my oil heats up in half the time so to me that is the best difference so far. I can't wait until it's 110F and I'm on the track to how this cooler really performs.

 

given all that I would expect pressure to drop .
Also if you were getting better cooling your temps would take longer to come up - not shorter .

It looks like something is wrong to me .....

 

9K, just to put your mind at rest and Brettus, your higher OP numbers look very good, and IMO similar (though I can not back it up with actual variable RPM/Temp data) to the Series II (09's)...

Remember the factory say 72.5 PSI @ 3000 RPM at 212F for the S2.

As far as any issues with the engines "Internals" well I can also assure you there has been NO change between series in this department...

Timing Cover Pulley and Rear Main Oil seals are the Exact same part numbers, so are OIL Rings and O rings and every other seal associated with engine Oil..like the rear eccentric shaft seal and needle bearing...if they are the same part numbers then they are the same parts.

 

/\ are they the same oil pump ?

 

Sorry brother but you are wrong. The stock coolers have flow control thermostats (they suck) and allow cold oil to pass through the stocks coolers right from cold start up and this is why the oil takes so long to warm up and that is not a good thing for those that drive daily. Even after my coolant temps were up my oil was still not up to temp after my seven mile drive to work.

My setup restricts the oil from entering the cooler until the oil temp is at 180F.

 

Thank you sir, I didn't want to quote what parts were the same, etc. and be incorrect.

 

OK I see what you are saying . I'm thinking the higher pressure (and shorter warm up time) is due to the higher opening temp of your thermostat .
Have you checked pressures once the oil gets over 180f yet ?

 

Sure, check out third row down. That oil temp was right after a bang through the gears pretty hard. I have to really dog it to get the oil temps up and I just have not been able to do that yet.

 

OK - looks good .
But I do think you will notice lower pressures once you really get it hot and the thermostat is fully open .


put a turbo on it - that'll get those temps up LOL

 

I have gotten the temps to the mid 190's and pressures were good, I just wasn't logging at that time. Hope fully I can get some data soon without getting arrested .

Our local RX-8 crew is having a cruise Saturday that would definitely get the oil temps up but I can't make it.