Single Oil Cooler
I missed this thread and just started another one on oil coolers... have you guys experiemented with anything else in the last few years??
Stephen
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-racing-...-using-243876/
Stephen
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-racing-...-using-243876/
Thread Starter
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 33,788
Likes: 462
From: San Antonio, Texas
I had to ditch my large Fluidyne unit when I went turbo due to space constarints. But what I did was remove the stock thermostat from the drivers side stock oil cooler and ran custom lines and fittings to a second aftermarket Long cooler that is mounted to the AC condenser and I have a real oil thermostat plumbed in.
If I did not have my secondary radiator in the spot of the passenger side stock oil cooler I would run two stock coolers with the thermostats removed with custom lines and a real thermostat. But even with the turbo adding heat to my oil, the temps never exceed 215F or so even when driven hard during the Texas heat.
If I did not have my secondary radiator in the spot of the passenger side stock oil cooler I would run two stock coolers with the thermostats removed with custom lines and a real thermostat. But even with the turbo adding heat to my oil, the temps never exceed 215F or so even when driven hard during the Texas heat.
I had to ditch my large Fluidyne unit when I went turbo due to space constarints. But what I did was remove the stock thermostat from the drivers side stock oil cooler and ran custom lines and fittings to a second aftermarket Long cooler that is mounted to the AC condenser and I have a real oil thermostat plumbed in.
If I did not have my secondary radiator in the spot of the passenger side stock oil cooler I would run two stock coolers with the thermostats removed with custom lines and a real thermostat. But even with the turbo adding heat to my oil, the temps never exceed 215F or so even when driven hard during the Texas heat.
If I did not have my secondary radiator in the spot of the passenger side stock oil cooler I would run two stock coolers with the thermostats removed with custom lines and a real thermostat. But even with the turbo adding heat to my oil, the temps never exceed 215F or so even when driven hard during the Texas heat.
I never opened the stock oil cooler but it probably controlled by just a spring, right ? at least that's what it looks like on the FC oil cooler, which I removed last year, send off for Aero grade cleaning and rebuild and thermo coated, came back better than new.
Thread Starter
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 33,788
Likes: 462
From: San Antonio, Texas
You just remove the thermostat and cut it off and screw it back in. It is a spring type. Or you could just remove it and plug the thermostat with a threaded plug. It is a weird thread pitch and size though so you may want to get that ordered a head of time. Then just plumb in a real oil thermostat anywhere you want. I will be going with the Earl's thermostat (cleaner install and has built in npt ports for gauges) here pretty soon when I reroute my lines to clean things up.
Super Moderator
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 10,880
Likes: 340
From: Australia
S2 is 10mm higher (taller) has different Hoses (all of them) and I believe the thermostat has a different rating.
N3R1-14-700 LH S2
N3R2-14-700 RH S2
N3H1-14-700D LH S1
N3H6-14-700D RH S1
Super Moderator
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 10,880
Likes: 340
From: Australia
One would think so M8, remember by design the S2's have a larger surface area of 'exposed' Oil Cooler, as the Fog Lights are not in the way like S1's are.
Virtually the complete front surface of S2 Oil Coolers are 'naked' to fresh air intake, nothing is in the way.
Virtually the complete front surface of S2 Oil Coolers are 'naked' to fresh air intake, nothing is in the way.
Thread Starter
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 33,788
Likes: 462
From: San Antonio, Texas
People keep asking me every few months and I keep forgetting when they ask me so I'll put it here.
The adapters needed for the engine block, oil filter pedestal, and the stock oil coolers themselves are M18 x 1.5 to -10AN male (or 5/8" JIC if you prefer).
The adapters needed for the engine block, oil filter pedestal, and the stock oil coolers themselves are M18 x 1.5 to -10AN male (or 5/8" JIC if you prefer).
You just remove the thermostat and cut it off and screw it back in. It is a spring type. Or you could just remove it and plug the thermostat with a threaded plug. It is a weird thread pitch and size though so you may want to get that ordered a head of time. Then just plumb in a real oil thermostat anywhere you want. I will be going with the Earl's thermostat (cleaner install and has built in npt ports for gauges) here pretty soon when I reroute my lines to clean things up.
However, it’d be a pretty big mistake to make for someone who follows directions without understanding how this really works. So when oil is cold the t-stat is allowing oil to flow between the inlet and outlet side to bypass the cooler. As the engine heats up the oil, the t-stat closes off the bypass pathway between the inlet and outlet side, forcing the oil to flow through the cooler instead.
So again, if you remove the t-stat the bypass hole between the inlet and outlet connections must be blocked otherwise there effectively is no oil cooler.
New Member
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
