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Seafoam with a newbee!

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Old 01-07-2011, 10:27 PM
  #101  
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ESPS plug release tab location

Originally Posted by tonedef
These are the steps I went through:

  • Took car for a spin. About a 10 to 15 min. drive.Gets the engine warmed up.
  • Remove the engine cover.
  • Remove stock air box. This helps to remove the Eccentric Shaft Position Sensor making it a lot easier.
  • Now remove the actual ESPS plug. (Eccentric Shaft Position Sensor)
  • Next remove the air pump connector. Not sure on the reason for this but some forum members have reported removal.
Looking at the picture, although it looks like there is release tab on the top, I am not sure where the release tab(s) is? I can reach and grab the plug but not sure where to squeeze to unplug the damn thing.
I hear I can jack up the car for easier access but I don't know if I want to do all that not knowing if removing the front wheel to begin with..
I am so ready for this as long as I can get it unplugged.
FYI: I am reaching from the top after lifting up the intake box.

Does anyone have a better picture of it to show where the release tabs are? Press on or pull out to release?

Last edited by JMS; 01-07-2011 at 10:32 PM.
Old 01-07-2011, 11:15 PM
  #102  
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Jack the car! Makes it easier to do a lot of things. Like change the plugs and coils. Or bleeding the clutch system.

Also remove your air box, don't just lift it up, actually remove it.
Old 01-07-2011, 11:25 PM
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The release tab is on the bottom. I had a really hard time getting it off also until I figured out where the tab was and where to squeeze it. Then it came right off.
Old 01-19-2011, 07:23 PM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by York
The release tab is on the bottom. I had a really hard time getting it off also until I figured out where the tab was and where to squeeze it. Then it came right off.
Hmm.. I removed the airbox and attempted to disconnect it once again.
It's in a real awkward location where my full hand cannot go in to squeeze the tab and pull out the connector. I really do not want to jack up the car.
Mine is 07 model and I wonder if they glue the damn thing together so any joeblow cannot disconnect it at their own will.
I want to know if I can at least remove the belt so that my both hands can go in so that one hand can squeeze the release tab and one hand can help pulling the connector.
Old 01-19-2011, 08:51 PM
  #105  
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Originally Posted by JMS
Hmm.. I removed the airbox and attempted to disconnect it once again.
It's in a real awkward location where my full hand cannot go in to squeeze the tab and pull out the connector. I really do not want to jack up the car.
Mine is 07 model and I wonder if they glue the damn thing together so any joeblow cannot disconnect it at their own will.
I want to know if I can at least remove the belt so that my both hands can go in so that one hand can squeeze the release tab and one hand can help pulling the connector.
you want to remove a belt before jacking up the car..? Really
Just jack up the front end and slide under, reach up and press... or have someone from up top with a long rod push the tab while you pull the plug out.
Old 01-20-2011, 09:13 AM
  #106  
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Originally Posted by Lord ET
you want to remove a belt before jacking up the car..? Really
Just jack up the front end and slide under, reach up and press... or have someone from up top with a long rod push the tab while you pull the plug out.
I am not sure if I understood your sarcasm ( i was referring to removing the belt so that both of hands can squeeze through the hole without having to jack up the car).
In any case, it sounds like jacking it up is inevitable at the moment..
Old 01-24-2011, 06:03 PM
  #107  
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Question

Does doing this seafoam deep clean have a negative effect on the Cat? I am considering doing this on my 04 when I hit 50k along with new plugs and coils.
Old 01-24-2011, 06:16 PM
  #108  
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Originally Posted by Emzloh
Does doing this seafoam deep clean have a negative effect on the Cat? I am considering doing this on my 04 when I hit 50k along with new plugs and coils.
Possibly but no ones done the research on that. and most of us are running cat less.
Old 02-06-2011, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by tonedef
These are the steps I went through:

  • Took car for a spin. About a 10 to 15 min. drive.Gets the engine warmed up.
  • Remove the engine cover.
  • Remove stock air box. This helps to remove the Eccentric Shaft Position Sensor making it a lot easier.
  • Now remove the actual ESPS plug. (Eccentric Shaft Position Sensor)
  • Next remove the air pump connector. Not sure on the reason for this but some forum members have reported removal.
Ok- exactly what part of the E-shaft Pos Sensor plug do you need to press which way to get that stupid thing off?
I can get my hand on it... but not while looking at it.
Old 02-06-2011, 03:10 PM
  #110  
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Originally Posted by BReal-10EC
Ok- exactly what part of the E-shaft Pos Sensor plug do you need to press which way to get that stupid thing off?
The push-in tab is located at the end of the connector, opposite side of the e-shaft sensor.
From above you'll need to press up on the tab and pull the connector away from the sensor.

If you still can't get it off, you can also get to it from underneath (jack-up the car).
I've done it a few times and its pretty simple.
The connector is practically in your face when looking up from underneath.
Old 02-06-2011, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Jon316G
The push-in tab is located at the end of the connector, opposite side of the e-shaft sensor.
From above you'll need to press up on the tab and pull the connector away from the sensor.
Are you talking about the side of the plug closest to the ground, or top side?

This supposedly easy stuff is always a pain for my large hands.
Just getting the aux port plugs off took twenty minutes. lol.

If you still can't get it off, you can also get to it from underneath (jack-up the car).
I've done it a few times and its pretty simple.
The connector is practically in your face when looking up from underneath.
Unfortunately I have a gravel driveway which makes jacking this low car up a royal pain. In the past, I have had better luck using gravel/metal ramp hybrids (with jack stands once up)... but those take a while to "set up".

http://www.flickr.com/photos/39402938@N02/5028504716/http://www.flickr.com/photos/39402938@N02/5028504716/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/39402938@N02/, on Flickr


I already put the car back together (frustrated) as I am burning daylight quick.
I should have stated much earlier today.
Oh well- maybe we will have decent weather one day next weekend.

^

And the comments about this hurting the cat had me concerned... need to do more research.
Do I need to unbolt the cat before doing this?
Is it easy to unbolt?
f***... nothing is ever simple.
Old 02-06-2011, 03:27 PM
  #112  
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Originally Posted by BReal-10EC
Are you talking about the side of the plug closest to the ground, or top side?
The tab is facing the ground... so its a "reach-around"
Old 02-06-2011, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Jon316G
The tab is facing the ground
Does the part you press in come off with the plug, or remain on the sensor part of the plug?
Old 02-06-2011, 05:39 PM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by BReal-10EC
Does the part you press in come off with the plug, or remain on the sensor part of the plug?
The tab is a part of the connector.
Here is a good pic of the connector still attached to the sensor:
Seafoam with a newbee!-eshaft-sensor.jpg
Old 02-13-2011, 03:37 PM
  #115  
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Well, I finally got the e-sensor plug off.
I loosened the air box tray which allowed my to get some slip joint pliers on the plug.

After following the directions- I ended up with the whole can of seafoam in the first port! I did use a larger hose than the OP with an adapter to get it on the port plug.
I think it siphoned the seafoam out even while the engine was stopped (between the ten second runs).

So... with a whole can of seafoam in a single port do damage?
I'm thinking hydro-locked type damage.

I had another can of seafoam, so I did the other one already.. and even though I did it for less than ten seconds each time.... it still used the entire can. It must have siphoned it out.

Oh well... I guess I'll find out in an hour or so....

Last edited by BReal-10EC; 02-13-2011 at 03:43 PM.
Old 02-13-2011, 06:03 PM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by Vlaze
I wonder how many people removed their CAT before doing this since you're throwing all that carbon crap after letting it sit in seafoam for an hour right down into that thing and harming it. Can easily just lead to another issue later on with the CAT getting clogged or just plain out failing.
I actually got some first-hand experience with this, but not on a Rx-8...

For what its worth, I've owned a 04 Grand Am 3.4L v6 since new, I seafoamed the engine probably every other oil change if not more. After 115k I replaced the catalytic coverter with a High-Flow one, the old cat looked fine still. I sold the car with 125k on it, probably only 2 seafoam treatments on that cat, but it worked fine, no cel/ect. I know a Rotary is "different", and I learned seafoaming from owning Rx-7's, although none of them had cats...

Just my 2cents.

-Shawn
Old 02-13-2011, 07:07 PM
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Damn.... it smoked for over an hour idling...

..then I drove it (got pulled over by cop for accelerating too quickly from an intersection.. I was revving it up to clean it out).. and I still notice some smoke.

How long is it supposed to smoke?
Old 02-13-2011, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by BReal-10EC
Well, I finally got the e-sensor plug off.
I loosened the air box tray which allowed my to get some slip joint pliers on the plug.

After following the directions- I ended up with the whole can of seafoam in the first port! I did use a larger hose than the OP with an adapter to get it on the port plug.
I think it siphoned the seafoam out even while the engine was stopped (between the ten second runs).

So... with a whole can of seafoam in a single port do damage?
I'm thinking hydro-locked type damage.

I had another can of seafoam, so I did the other one already.. and even though I did it for less than ten seconds each time.... it still used the entire can. It must have siphoned it out.

Oh well... I guess I'll find out in an hour or so....
i would love to hear some peoples input on this whole siphon issue that seems like it could be a problem.... is it? and what is the preventative to keep it from getting siphoned how much do u really want in 1 port after the two ten second turns?
Old 02-13-2011, 07:47 PM
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I'm pretty sure its about 4oz per rotor. you could measure it out before hand.
Old 02-13-2011, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 1.3_LittersOfFurry
I'm pretty sure its about 4oz per rotor. you could measure it out before hand.
so maybe measuring it out and instead of having it suck the fluid straight out of the can put it in maybe a different bottle would be a good solution
Old 02-13-2011, 08:21 PM
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That's how I did it.
Old 02-16-2011, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by tonyG
so maybe measuring it out and instead of having it suck the fluid straight out of the can put it in maybe a different bottle would be a good solution

Yeah... I didn't think of that until I already had one whole bottle in the one port. After that- I thought I might as well do both the same....

I did have trouble getting it to such in the 2 stroke oil.
It is thicker.
Maybe a verticle funnel with the proper amount so it wil suck in easily?

Didn't wankel owners used to use Marvel Mystery Oil for this type of thing- since it is both a solvent and a lubricant?
Old 02-16-2011, 05:42 PM
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I've used MMO in my fuel and oil but never tried it like seafoam on the 7's
Old 02-17-2011, 08:33 AM
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And FWIW-

Anybody having the hard to start when engine is hot issue- do the seafoam thing. It fixed mine. There are few things more irritiating than an RX8 refusing to start when it is blocking the gas pumps....
Old 02-17-2011, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by BReal-10EC
And FWIW-

Anybody having the hard to start when engine is hot issue- do the seafoam thing. It fixed mine. There are few things more irritiating than an RX8 refusing to start when it is blocking the gas pumps....
EDIT.

Well ****.
It did it again tonight.

I changed the plugs and coils within the last 10k miles.
Would the old plug wires cause that hot hard starting issue?
(Car has 40k miles)


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