Seafoam with a newbee!
 

Hey guys just want to recount my experience using Seafoam instead of Mazdas Zoom Cleaner (with pics).

First off, this is what I used:

• 16oz. can of Seafoam.
• 8oz. of 2 cycle oil.
• Mazdas TSB about loss of power. (In here you will find Mazdas instructions on how to do an engine cleaning with Mazdas Zoom Cleaner just substitute.

Illustrated below.
Attachment 268764
Attachment 268765
Attachment 268766

seafoam
 

check the DIY of the carbon cleaning.......i used seafoam and had hella-smoke out of my car...

These are the steps I went through:

• Took car for a spin. About a 10 to 15 min. drive.Gets the engine warmed up.
• Remove the engine cover.
• Remove stock air box. This helps to remove the Eccentric Shaft Position Sensor making it a lot easier.
• Now remove the actual ESPS plug. (Eccentric Shaft Position Sensor)Attachment 268761
• Next remove the air pump connector. Not sure on the reason for this but some forum members have reported removal. Attachment 268762

Now on 04 - 05 models you would remove the vacuum plugs from the auxiliary ports. Servicing ONE at a time!

06 and later models have vacuum hoses attached to the PCV system. As well remove one at a time.

Since my car is an 04 I removed the front vacuum plug first and attached a hose that went from the port to the SeaFoam can. Like so-> Attachment 268759

Also removed the windshield washer fluid reservoir to make room to move about.

Crank engine for 10 sec (letting vacuum suck in the seafoam) and let it sit for 30 sec and repeat on that same port.

Now do the same for the second port. (remembering to plug the first port)
Attachment 268758

Now let the SeaFoam sit for an hour or more.

After that grab your 2 cycle oil and do the the same as with the SeaFoam for each port. Cranking the engine for only 5 sec. Both ports only took about 4 oz.

Next:

• Reconnect the ESPS connector
• Reconnect the Air pump connector
• Assemble back your air intake box.
• If you choose to, replace the engine cover.

As you can notice I edit a lot! First time doing this.
Just wanted to show other newbees and forum members alike it can be done. It's actually very easy.

I also cleaned my MAF Sensor with Electric Contact Cleaner.

Now my car is a lot smoother!

I used to come up to a stop and my car would stumble like crazy. One time actually stalling. I thought about replacing my plugs and coils just wanted to get this done first(cheaper). Then going with the more expensive.

Overall I would recommend this procedure to everyone!

wait an hour before starting it to let the cleaner soak in well.

What is the purpose of adding all that 2-cycle oil at the end, to mix with the seafoam? I don't recall that being part of the shop procedure. I don't think it will help with carbon removal, and shouldn't be necessary for startup.

I think it's just adding a lot of hydrocarbons to a situation where the exhaust will already be getting a big load of hydrocarbon from the seafoam, and adding unnecessary burden to the catalytic converter and increasing the amount of smoke.

omp is cranked up to max when following the shop procedure i believe.

If more people followed this procedure their motors would retain compression for a lot, lot, lot longer. We've successfully disconnected the oil metering pump internals to trick engine management to think its still working. Naturally we all know that the need for this product to remove carbon comes from the oil metering pump. Adding 2 cycle to your fuel accomplishes the same thing but 2 cycle is designed to burn in a combustion event.

The process we've followed on older motors that come with our race donor cars is to pour the SeaFoam directly into all the spark plug holes after turning the motor over a few times here and there to insure the seafoam gets to all the seal grooves. We wait a few hours and add a little more to let it soak into all the sealing grooves. Then we wait overnight.

Tonedef is right on the money---you fire this dude up (and it stumbles and stumbles) and you wouldn't believe the amount of what looks bright white smoke. It will do this for 5 or 10 minutes (it did for us).

Take compression readings before and after and you'll see a difference.

Right, but are you agreeing with adding a big slug of 2-cycle at the end of the decarboning soak?

I guess you could. It will burn off so it won't hurt anything. I really can't think of any advantages other then a nice big lubricated housing when you first fire her up.

what did you do exactly ?

Mazda tech's pump OMP output to 60% or more because using seafoam Or Mazda Zoom Cleaner will Clean chambers dry of what ever is in there including stock OMP injected oil. Causing FRICTION (this is not good!). That is why we use 2 cycle oil after the soak in process. To lubricate the chambers and reduce friction. Since we mortals can't tap into the ECM and adjust the OMP output.

Ah, I took a look at the TSB and I see what you're talking about. But I'm not sure whether friction reduction was the goal there. Prior to bumping up the MOP, the procedure has you:

- start the engine and run at 1500-2000 rpm until stablized and all smoke has dissipated. This alone takes at least 10 minutes.

- rev to 6000 rpm, with quick cutoff (repeat 20 times!)

It's only at this point that the TSB calls for the "MOP simulation test". Avoidance of cleaner-induced friction doesn't seem to be the point, since it probably takes a good half hour after start-up to get to this point, including the 6000 rpm bursts -- all done after the stripping effect of the cleaner. But I imagine "normal" MOP lubrication is restored within a short time of engine startup.

I'm not sure I understand the purpose of 15 minutes of idle with high oil injection at this point of the procedure. Maybe a final attempt at dislodging loosened carbon by allowing oil to penetrate spaces opened up by the previous steps? Providing a means of conveyance for those carbon bits? Unblocking the MOP ports of sludge?

I think you probably have a good idea about trying to emulate their MOP actions, but it would need to be after the 6000-rpm runup sequence is complete, otherwise the manually-injected oil is long gone by then. It would be tough to emulate a 15 minute stretch of sustained high lubrication. Maybe some heavy premix?

I am interested in doing this but I was wondering If I should swap in my old plugs first? or does that matter?

Yes. The 2-Cycle like all other oils is to coat the inside with a protection coat that you remove when you decarb the engine.
So by adding the 2-cycle you are adding that protection layer back but this time its clean.

I probably would although I checked the condition of my plugs after and they weren't that filled with crud. Actually It seem to me that carbon was actually falling of. A small wire brush and they should be clean. But if you have old used ones I'd say used them instead.

Yep you may be right. But I definitely would have the oil in there in the initial process were the SeaFoam is still fresh and in larger quantity. Now remember that this is the reason behind using 2 cycle oil. This is oil that burns with out leaving carbon deposits (or so I'm told) like conventional motor oil does. But I see your point and I agree it is hard to emulate the process Mazda uses were they can freely manipulate the OMP.

Did any of you guys change your oil after performing this procedure? I have a few people telling me I should....

does seafoam come with the tube?

What 2 stroke oil can be bought from Autozone? I don't premix but I don't like the idea of cranking dry so I have no idea what to use.

seafoam doesn't come with the tube. You have to find somewhere. I did the seafoam 2 days ago and the car fells a lot better. btw You can use any universal 2 stroke oil from walmart etc.

Tube is 1/4in and about 3 feet in length. You'll find in at places like NAPA. And yes any 2 cycle or 2 stroke oil should be fine.