After seafoaming will i have to drive slow?

 

Only if you wanna.

 

Only n00bs use cat

You asked for it

 

Only nOObs use Seafoam.

 

I actually have 3 different mid pipes butttt... that's not the point....

 

^I know. Remember your pics, seafoaming didn't do you any good.

 

has anyone else had their checking engine light turn on once the car was first turned on after adding all the seafoam and oil? cause my check engine light went on right when i first turned it on

 

Better question has anyone added seafoam to their oil?

 

did this today !!! FIRE DEPARTMENT CAME !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I had to explain what i was doing so... ( I wonder which one of my neighboors called them ) .... I also hope I dont get a bill....

 

had mine come on after seafoam, still didnt go off though after 50km. did the 20 brake stomp and the odo reset thing then drove another 30km and still have the light on.

im gonna remove/clean my new-ish plugs and see if it does anything then drive to partsource and have them read a code if it doesnt clear on the way there.

p.s. while i was seafoaming i had a couple of cars pull in the lot to see what was going on. i drove off and on my way back to the lot i saw police driving through
butt dyno says the car is smoother and slightly more responsive

 

I hear that seafoam can or the zoom zoom stuff can have adverse affects on the cat. Im not sure if I want to inject or just put some into the gas tank.

 

Just go to autozone and have them clear the codes. The code(s) will not return unless you really have a fault. I have my doubts about the seafoam treatment anyway. I have done this in the past, but used the Mazda product, and I removed the CAT during the procedure. God awful stench, and very little smoke. The smoke show is pretty impressive with seafoam, but other than I have my doubts?

 

So, a couple things. First I hope I didn't screw things up too much. I unplugged the wrong plug initially (it was below the air box and looked like the one in the pics, but the initial time I started cranking the car just barely turned over, and I shut it down immediately).

Anyway, found the REAL ESPS and continued. 10 sec on, 30 sec break, 10 sec on. When I went to switch to the other nipple, the first had gulped about 90% of the seafoam!!! WTF? So I did the procedure with the second chamber, but it didn't get much in there.

Anyone know why it gulped so much? Apparently one bottle is enough to do both chambers twice! Right now I'm in the hour waiting period and and going to add the oil and put it all back together in a bit.

 

You're far better off running a full bottle through each chamber than 90% in one and 10% in the other.

 

Yeah I was afraid of that. Problem is I only bought one bottle and my car is kinda out of commission waiting for the seafoam to do its thing. Even if I got a ride to the auto parts store my engine would be cooled down by the time I got back. Ugh

 

When you go back buy two cans and redo the procedure. don't sweat it too much... one rotor is just going to have less carbon build up than the other for a bit.

 

I recently did a Seafoam clean. I know it definitely made a lot of smoke, but it's hard to tell if it made any difference. This isn't, however, because my car isn't performing better. It's because I was having major engine misfires so at the same time I also replaced the spark plugs/ignition coils, did a throttle body bypass, removed the VFAD and intake baffles, and flushed the coolant system. On the whole everything is working leaps and bounds better. The main reason I did the Seafoam clean though was because I had major ash and carbon buildup on the spark plugs and I know I got some dust and rust in the combustion chamber when I was removing them, because they were rusted in there.

 

i have a quick question can you do it without unplugging the ess sensor rather unplugging the 20 amp fuse for fuel pump like when you do the deflooding. tried to disconnect the ess and took it to a shop they still couldnt get it out either so was wondering if you could do it any help would be appreciated thank you

 

I don't mean to bring up a dead thread, is there an easier way to unplug the ESS plug also? I'm not having any luck so far.

 

If you are unplugging the ESS when seafoaming, you are using a method of seafoaming that has been proven to be completely ineffective. The engine should be running when the seafoam is ingested, which requires that the ESS be plugged in and working. Of course, distilled water is 80 times cheaper than seafoam, and just as effective in decarbing, so the question of using seafoam at all a good one.

 

I did a water decarb on my car the other day.Now the engine will not rev out cleanly,it hesitates in 1st gear at 7500rpm and 2nd gear about 5500rpm.I did put in new plugs after decarb but still have the problem.i am not getting any engine light or codes.
the car has recently had new coils,leads and fuel pump.
Any ideas on what to check next?

 

Check your cat

 

Yes,checked the cat it looks fine.I was thinking the SSV is sticking shut or MAF is dirty.

 

I'm probably reviving a dead thread here but I'm a bit desperate for help here, I followed this thread word for word and now the car won't start up.

It's not my vehicle either I left a friend's car not running here. Its a 2004 RX-8 With the Renesis motor.

What I did -
Removed washer reservoir.
Removed air box and removed the top part from the goose neck.
Unplugged the the ESPS from the plug. (it was layered with grease and dirt bad).
Unplugged the air pump.
Removed one of the vaccum port caps.
Attached the tubing.
Measured out the seafoam in a Pyrex cup. I read elsewhere that it should be 4oz per port.
Cranked the motor until the vaccum sucked up the seafoam, then repeated with the other port.
Replaced everything, plugged everything back in and let the car sit for about an hour and a half.

Upon going to start the car it turned over fine everything sounded as it should but it just wouldn't start. On about the 3rd crank you could smell the seafoam in the air I'm guessing coming from the exhaust.

Looking closer to make sure everything was good under the hood, when the ignition would be turned on there was a distinct crackling noise coming from what sounded like the fuse box and it sounds like this noise would then run up the harness next to the fuse box towards the top. We killed all the lights and it was dark out by this point but there was no visible spark or arching anywhere that could be seen. Tested fuses resistance and the voltage from the fuse box and everything seemed ok.
I thought maybe the plugs were majorly flooded out and had my buddy let the car sit over night but still no start this morning.

I'm losing it here with guilt, I know it wasn't a purposeful thing but I still want to make this right. I have been working on cars since I could hold a wrench but I don't have much experience with rotary motors. Anything here sound like a known issue with a fix to you guys?

 

Perhaps the ESPS has been damaged during its removal and cleaning? Does it sound like it is attempting to fire at all?

How long are you attempting to start each time? Badly fouled plugs could be possible as well, I guess.