FuzzeH

I can reach the plug just fine I just have a hard time trying to unplug it. Do I have to depress some part of the plug in order to remove it?


EDIT: Nevermind. I was able to get it off. There was just a lot of dirt trapped where the plug release was. I've let the seafoam sit for about 80 min. Can I use some 5w20 motor oil in place of the 2 cycle oil? I had some laying around the garage.

tonedef

That will defeat the purpose, 5w20 motor oil won't burn like the 2 cycle oil will.

amccart33

I'm also having the same problem with the ESPS harness. I can reach it perfectly i just can't get it to come off..

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Are you trying from above or underneath?
I've always found it easier underneath.

I've also done it with two people... one underneath to push on the release tab, and the other stands above and pulls the connector out.
Sounds strange, but that tab can be tough to press down all the way, then the connector can be difficult to separate.
So why not divide the work between two people.

tonedef

I did it from the top(to lazy to jack the car up)

Do it like so. With your right hand squeeze the tab, on your left hand your going to put a flat head screwdriver between the plug and twist it to lift it.

TheWulf

iTrader: (4)

It's really, very easy:

Jack up the car and crawl under. You need TWO screwdrivers.

Use 1 screwdriver to press on the ridged area to undo the clip.
Use the other screwdriver to slide the plug off.

After you do this once the plug is loose enough to do it by hand the next time.

FuzzeH

thx for the replies guys. was able to get it off finally. I did the seafoam procedure and now car is running really smooth Is it normal though for some smoke to come out of the engine bay? The car also had a hard idle when I first started it.

TheWulf

iTrader: (4)

Uhhh... did you replace the caps/vacuum lines on the LIM nipples?

FuzzeH

Is that where the engine sucks the seafoam thru? I didnt have any connected lines on there just the caps. And no I did not replace them. Was I supposed to?

Ross_Dawg

iTrader: (2)

YES! Before you start the motor you must replace the caps.

FuzzeH

wait I mean I DID put the caps back on the stems before I started the motor but I reused the old caps. I was asking if I should replace the old caps with new ones.

shadycrew31

iTrader: (6)

You don't need to replace them just put them back on. where was the smoke coming from? did you spill anything on your exhaust manifold? how much smoke was there?

FuzzeH

My hood was up and I couldnt tell where it was coming from it only lasted 3 seconds. The smoke was thick enough to blind the source and I didnt spill any fluid. Tube I used was pretty snug and I held it at the point of connection. No leaks.

shadycrew31

iTrader: (6)

hmmm. try seafoaming again without using seafoam. aka turn over the engine with the e-shaft sensor unplugged. wait an hour or so and inspect the engine for leaks. Also you may have a leak from your exhaust manifold gasket air pump gasket.

FuzzeH

what kind of leaks am I looking for? And where can I locate the air pump gasket you mentioned?

shadycrew31

iTrader: (6)

its on the exhaust manifold. Any leaks at all really. smoke can be coming form one of two things... Something spilled on the manifold or the manifold is leaking.

Ross_Dawg

iTrader: (2)

Ahh no, the old ones are fine. I though you left the caps off

Vlaze

iTrader: (14)

I wonder how many people removed their CAT before doing this since you're throwing all that carbon crap after letting it sit in seafoam for an hour right down into that thing and harming it. Can easily just lead to another issue later on with the CAT getting clogged or just plain out failing.

shadycrew31

iTrader: (6)

you'd be surprised how much of that white smoke is just the sea foam burning and not the actual carbon.

shadycrew31

iTrader: (6)

LOL I kid I kid...

ShinkaEvo

iTrader: (3)

Just did seafoam last night, I had my driver door open while starting up, at some point I couldn't even see the meter....hell, much more smoke than I expected. (And yes, the neighbor came over...I think his bedroom window were open which is next to the garage....lol)

The idle is a bit smoother, but somehow it sounds louder whenever I accelerate. I guess the engine it's not totally clean yet, will give her some day to get the stuffs out....Will give it couple days and see if the noise reduce back to before or not.

Cheers~

Figs

Quick question, how much damage could be done if one of the rubber nipples wasn't replaced. I'm not talking long term or anything. Just a drive around the block. Hypothetically speaking of course

moeswrx

iTrader: (2)

Would these steps apply to the s2 series?

twistedwankel

iTrader: (6)

http://www.finishlineperformance.com...5-08-1883f.pdf

This TSB was written for the "Cranks No Start" condition. (2004-08 models)

So here is my story. The Dealer convinced me to let him clean the carbon out this way. The Engine has 5k but the intake had 55k as did everything else on the car. Car ran fine. A week later I noticed a clinking noise when I'd start out in first gear with the window down from under the car. I thought it might be a heat shield? Took car in today for oil change and asked them to check into the noise.

Turns out the Cat had melted into rocks and was bouncing around in there. I left the car as was told if the Cat plugs it could blow out the intake gasket or cause other damage.

The Cat is being replaced under warrantee for free!! As only have 60k on car and original cat.

Good thing as they cost a grand or so!!

I don't think I'll be using this procedure unless my car actually quits which is UNLIKELY as I only drive it fast and hot to autocrosses and flog the hell out of it

That said I am a real fan of Sea Foam and have used for cleaning it in my 81 Suzuki Air Cooled engine/trans oil (cleaning flush) and gas with success for years.

Maybe because I'm accustomed to letting my aluminum bike heat up before riding it my Rotary will last longer than most?!

DocBeech

iTrader: (1)

I will give it a shot and let you know how it works for me.