Good job. Since i'm retarded i bought a netbook for the very same purpose

Anyway to avoid running in circles: check all the tolerances, replace the parts you have to replace... build the engine and keep your fingers crossed. You now have the manual and that pic by pic little guide so just hope for the best.

If you fail again please print a tshirt that reads "rotary engines are so simple that i couldn't build mine on my own"

 

but the shirt would be a lie...I did build and install a rotary....it just didnt work

 

The shirt is a lie!

Again though, plan your next steps and act accordingly. Measure, replace, rebuild, install... don't overthink the build too much as it's almost stock but keep in mind that the evil is in the details. Don't waste time thinking about single piece this or ultra-awesome unobtanium rotor coatings. Just take the parts you need and put them back together... the farther you move from this modus operandi the easier it gets to screw things up.

Now go back to the work bench!

 

I am not sure if you remember but when we removed the LIM it had alot of oil in it.....but there was no oil in the intake....would the compression issue cause pressure back through the intake?

please say yes

 

thats the plan...ordering OEM seals this weekend I think.

 

I don't know about your oil issue, i never witnessed that kind of problem in person so i can't help you with that.

I would focus on the seal springs anyway, spend some time practicing. Make sure that the seals fall in place and that the spring does its job using your scrap parts these days.

 

excellent, my dad taught me the same process and that is how I did it when I worked in the machine shop 12yrs ago....but it has been 12 years.....damn how I miss the smell of CNC coolant in the morning...and the way the varsal would make your skin burn....hmmmm the good ole days (I say that as a 33 yr old...)

 

I just order atkins rebuild kit and goppy apex selas, so what you guys says is it good or bad decision??

 

its great, you commited.....but obviously you dont feel confident...maybe should have gone mazda? ...theres no wrong answer

 

I can use Goopy apex sela in N/A or it's specially made for turbo engine

 

Your ordered them already without figuring this out first? I told you in the other thread to call Goopy, they make the seal after all.

 

yea buddy, I would maybe pick up the phone

 

i think that the blowby can work both ways. I have blown oil all the way through the intake before.
The oil pan area has to be vented very well.

 

Well Goopy my understanding last only 50k or so no matter what set up you do. 50k on a rebuild well most say yea I want a lot more that's just me.

 

There is no possible way they can fail everytime at 50k.

That said I would just stick with OEM unless you want to run some crazy boost.

 

I dont think any of us will be running crazy *** boost....well shady will when his engine is about to blow

 

My goal is 11psi

 

20 psi all day! get it right get it tight.

 

I went to 7psi this AM, solid mid 11 AFR's the whole way A huge fireball between the 1st to 2nd shift is a nice way to start the day for sure.

 

be careful young boostkateer,

 

I am, I was datalogging

 

yummmy!

I think I want to stay under 8 psi... That said I fully plan on engine failure around April of next year, then we get to do a south austin rx rebuild.

 

I think 8-10 psi will be the sweet spot. Right now 6-7psi feels awesome.

Houstonrx8er,

Have you measured anything yet?

 

no, having techincal issues with work......I hate stupid people.

my plan tonight is to do just that...I did get my old irons out so I could measure them also....might as well while I am set up.

 

I feel you, I have been interviewing all week, I have little hope for the future of the U.S.A.