as far as the vacuum reading they are between 13-14psi (low right?)

I do have to say that the car did start twice after it was hot, that hasnt happened yet

 

35 PSI????

vacuum should be 16 or higher isn't it?

what da heck?

 

no, thats the compression test results......vacuum was was 14

 

Dude... did you ever see the guy who dose a mold of his face with his own frozen blood every five years....

 

13-14 vacuum is pretty low bro.

 

 

13-14 vacuum is pretty low. What is the vacuum at 2K rpms without a load on it?
I bet its higher.
all rotor faces with about equal compression is good---- I would drive the hell of out it for a little while. Then look at your sparkplugs and get an oil analysis? See if you have a lot of wear metal or a lot of fuel in the oil? Just an idea. I wouldnt tear it down--yet.
isnt compression using a "regular" compression gauge around 80-100psi?

 

it was over 20 if I remember correctly, I will check it again when I get home.

looked at plugs last night while I did compression test, look as I would expect them to look, not wet or white or anything like that

thats what I though but I followed the proceedure 9k posted (RR I beleive) and everything matches but I couldnt get the tester to read in the 3-digit range

I do have to say the car started right up this morning...best it has so far.

 

Well that is a good sign

 

the concensus seems to be to keep driving it....

wonder if after driving home today it will "Hot" start????

 

I refuse to buy anything from anyone named Goopy.

 

I drove it today

and it hot started today when I got here.

 

+1.

 

I also don't use claims like this as validation for a product:

"NO we do not have data or photos showing results after 20,000 miles.
However, we have had very high HP racers running our refurbished housings with our Goopy Performance Apex Seals for a full race season (40-50+ passes) while maintaining very high compression and no housing damage
of any kind"

What that says is that they know for a fact that their product can live between 10-12.5 miles at full throttle with 40-50 breaks mixed in. Being proven on a 1/4 mile drag strip is meaningless to a street car. Being proven at the 24 hours of Lemans however is a bit different!

 

Well there ya go...

 

if the vacuum between idle and 2K prms changes from 13-14 to 20 and above--then that is weak sealing at idle---unless its a ported engine?
what that would mean to me --continue to drive the heck out of it for a while. I bet it is going to get better. the bad ju-ju will go away

 

I am ported and it is official...I am going to drive the **** out of it

 

phew i was about to say mmmmmm wwaaaat 35?¿?¿?¿?¿

OK. well it seems that its working fine now. that's a good sign.

give it more break in time.

 

I think alot of this is caused by my super premix gas from that first tank

 

that's also the reason why i bought new housing instead of doing that resurfacing thinnnngggg

i rather have my housing rechrome.

 

DO IT.......

 

well on my drive home today I pretty much confirmed that my oil temp guage is jacked....or the cable routing is....and probably the latter

I got home and the RB guage said 240 so I put a high power fan in front of my other cooler until the driveside oil cooler fan kicked off (190 I beleive) and the OT on my RB pod was still 230 even after a few minutes....after thumping the cable with a flash light I was able to get the guage down 20deg......when it doubt blame opperator error

 

240 ...

Is RB gauges mechanical or it's thru sensor ?

I love my Defi set never gave me any issues/errors. but sadly I killed the control unit by mistake. ****.

 

its mechanical. I thought that is what I wanted but I have learned now. just not worth replacing.

 

my coolant temps never saw above 195 which kind of confirms that messed up OT as well