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an RX8er's rebuild thread

Old May 17, 2012 | 03:44 PM
  #501  
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so thats 2 for "drive the **** out of it"........

do you feel the redline is necessary or is it more about load and the pressure it creates behind the seals?
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Old May 17, 2012 | 04:07 PM
  #502  
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gotcha.....now that this all has had time to settle it all kind of makes sense....and to your point about the timeline between startup and carbon build up is an excellent point
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Old May 17, 2012 | 04:54 PM
  #503  
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Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill
I should probably add some details to what I look for when starting a newly rebuilt engine (assuming an N/A engine);

I start the engine and note how smooth it runs and idles. After running it until the fans cycle one complete time, I blip the throttle a few times to check the throttle response. It should be pretty quick and not laggy. A few more minutes of running and then I rev it a few more times, to slightly higher RPMs, and listen for odd sounds. If it's all good, I do what RG suggested. Once under load, if all is smooth, the idea of "redline" or not is not such a big deal as the highest housing pressures will be at the torque peak anyway. If it all sounds and feels smooth, have at it.
Originally Posted by houstonrx8er
gotcha.....now that this all has had time to settle it all kind of makes sense....and to your point about the timeline between startup and carbon build up is an excellent point
That's exactly what I did... I had to put a brick under the gas pedal for a few minutes so it would hold idle. After 3 minutes it held idle fine, I let it run through 3 fan cycles then took it for a drive keeping it under 5kish. Minus the redline thing... I was not comfortable doing that for a while.

Last edited by shadycrew31; May 17, 2012 at 04:56 PM.
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Old May 17, 2012 | 05:03 PM
  #504  
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I'll never understand why people aren't willing to run a fresh new engine hard when it's at it's strongest but they have no problem beating on an engine that has lots of miles on it. Something just seems weird about that.
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Old May 17, 2012 | 05:31 PM
  #505  
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Originally Posted by rotarygod
I'll never understand why people aren't willing to run a fresh new engine hard when it's at it's strongest but they have no problem beating on an engine that has lots of miles on it. Something just seems weird about that.
Because i didn't trust my own work.
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Old May 17, 2012 | 05:47 PM
  #506  
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well I think I am sold on the delicate initital startup...check things out...ease into it...then maybe and oil change......then drive the **** out of it for 10-20min.....then oil change........and after 1000-1500 miles I will be all over it
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Old May 17, 2012 | 05:47 PM
  #507  
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Originally Posted by shadycrew31
Because i didn't trust my own work.
but you are the only one with a straight up answer
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Old May 17, 2012 | 05:56 PM
  #508  
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Why drive the **** out of it 20 minutes in and then wait 1000 miles to do so again?
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Old May 17, 2012 | 06:15 PM
  #509  
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because that initial time is to condition the seals and there are other components that would benefit from more time....but are sacrificed in the bengining.
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Old May 17, 2012 | 07:13 PM
  #510  
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Originally Posted by rotarygod
I'll never understand why people aren't willing to run a fresh new engine hard when it's at it's strongest but they have no problem beating on an engine that has lots of miles on it. Something just seems weird about that.
Well my thoughts are the same, I help build a rotary engine with my cousin back in Chicago a bit ago , I asked him when and how long you going to break in the engine ,.? He laugh and said rotary engines don't break they malfunction .
. Lol anyways he let it idle warm up, turn off, took oil filter off after it cooled down replaced , turned on again took for a good drive not hard just a good drive , changed oil and filter and we went back on the streets and he ran it hard not hard but hard enought that he said if this engine is going to malfunction it would of done it by now. Well he ran it for 500 changed oil then at 1000 then he was on the streets to test and man did test it .

Glad Charles got in this thread and glag you mention this too, Now I'm more confident with my cousins ways. He says if is done right it will last the abuse .. He is a good builder I just wish he can be a forum member but he says they got questions call me in my house phone or stop by the garage lol ..



And the Engine is looking hot bro,,
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Old May 17, 2012 | 08:20 PM
  #511  
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Originally Posted by houstonrx8er
sorry had to quote that pic to see it again

NICE...
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Old May 17, 2012 | 09:18 PM
  #512  
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well gonna call it a night. after spending the last hour looking for 4 bolts I am throwing in the towel. fyi to those that try.......do not lose bolts. fortunatly they are not all that crucial and I will pick some up tomorrow

also word to the wise, the 09 housings oil pan bolts do not line up (hence the clamps) so I guess I will need to drill and tap new holes...wtf mazda

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alittle porting I did on the LIM. Probably serves absolutely no purpose but there were some horribly ugly cast marks in there.

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Old May 17, 2012 | 11:25 PM
  #513  
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Looks good!
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Old May 18, 2012 | 12:17 AM
  #514  
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Originally Posted by houstonrx8er
also word to the wise, the 09 housings oil pan bolts do not line up (hence the clamps) so I guess I will need to drill and tap new holes...wtf mazda
Huh? 09 Housings? Is that rear housing an 09+ housing with a plug in the additional oil injector? If that's the case you may be having problems because the 09+ uses a different oil pan all together, the bolt holes may be different.

Last edited by kma5783; May 18, 2012 at 01:02 AM.
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Old May 18, 2012 | 05:11 AM
  #515  
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Looking good Bro .
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Old May 18, 2012 | 06:35 AM
  #516  
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09 housings? please tell more
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Old May 18, 2012 | 07:05 AM
  #517  
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When I ordered housing Atkins had the option of "excellent shape" used housing (used for 1 race season). Since they were half price and they assured me they were in good shape I jumped on it. Turned out they only had 1-04 housing and 1-09 which they told me were the same except for the extra oil port (that you just plug). Turns out this is not the case.

I would assume it is pretty important to not skip these 2 bolts (as you can see from the photo I clamped the 2 locations so the RTV would dry under pressure. the spot with the clamp does have a threaded hole in the housing that lines up it is just a different size. the passenger side is off by quite a bit
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Old May 18, 2012 | 07:06 AM
  #518  
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damn, I think I go oil on my cell phone camera lens.... all my photos are blurry
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Old May 18, 2012 | 07:36 AM
  #519  
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S2 models have bigger oil pans. Hope that doesnt cause problems.

Glad it was your camera--i had already broke out the stuff to clean my bifocals!
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Old May 18, 2012 | 07:41 AM
  #520  
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now that sounds like my dad....he is the man that trys to use photoshop to blurr photos so they are clear for him....jk

from atkins said they are interchangable and I questioned them 3 or 4 times.....I think everything else is good to go...or atleast it looked that way upon intital assembly
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Old May 18, 2012 | 11:44 AM
  #521  
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nice build!!
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Old May 18, 2012 | 11:47 AM
  #522  
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Originally Posted by houstonrx8er
now that sounds like my dad....he is the man that trys to use photoshop to blurr photos so they are clear for him....jk
Your dad knows what photoshop is? bravo good sir
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Old May 18, 2012 | 12:41 PM
  #523  
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Originally Posted by ELI063
nice build!!
thanks!
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Old May 18, 2012 | 12:42 PM
  #524  
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Originally Posted by J8635621
Your dad knows what photoshop is? bravo good sir
good point
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Old May 18, 2012 | 01:09 PM
  #525  
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I would hope so
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