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Renesis OIL PRESSURE Discussion with Dealer Tech

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Old 11-22-2009 | 09:47 PM
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what readings are you getting?
OD
Old 11-23-2009 | 02:17 AM
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Originally Posted by madcows
I can't seem to make sense of your results, ayrton. It doesn't make sense that your OP would double when the cooler bypass is closing. Since you're measuring at the sandwich plate (after the cooler, right?) I would have to imagine that the pressure would go down a bit, since it would lose some through the cooler. Not only that, but your oil should be thinner as well. Do you potentially have a faulty gauge?
Hey,hey hey!!!

I was talking about the eccentric shaft's oil bypass thermo pellet!!!

Otherwise the oil cooler's thermo bypasses opening and closing does not affect much on oil pressure.
Old 11-23-2009 | 11:15 PM
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PhillipM, you were right. Now I believe.

Old 11-24-2009 | 02:29 AM
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
PhillipM, you were right. Now I believe.

90PSI. Strange.

How did you do it?
Old 11-24-2009 | 08:10 AM
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I knew the gauges weren't wrong, quite a big pressure drop across the original coolers then?
If there is, they must be quite a flow restriction...
Old 11-24-2009 | 09:04 AM
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Yep, I have seen an increase of 15PSI from 7500k up. Plus, my oil heats up to 175-180 in about half the time. I am getting intermittent error codes with my temp gauge but I will get that sorted out this week.
Old 11-24-2009 | 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by PhillipM
I knew the gauges weren't wrong, quite a big pressure drop across the original coolers then?
If there is, they must be quite a flow restriction...
Very, very big restriction.

Strange, that the pressure is so big, that the rear regulator can't keep the factory max. 74 PSI. Is it possible?
Old 11-24-2009 | 09:23 AM
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I am using 5/8" hose with JIC fittings and teh thermostat has 1/2" ports. The factory lines seems sufficient for flow but they are much too complicated. The two factory coolers with one after market thermostat and custom feed and return lines would be a good option. I'm not sure why Mazda chose the route they took with the flow control thermostats.
Old 11-24-2009 | 11:56 AM
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I've found the accuracy on a couple of different oil pressure gauges to be horrible. Calibrating using air pressure before installation, I found one to be off by about a factor of two. The better one is ok up to about 50 psi, then gets optimistic fast, reading 80 lbs at a real 70 psi. (The sensor is mounted on an adapter under the oil filter.)

Even correcting for this, my OP behaves strangely. Upon cold startup, I get the reference 50 psi at 3,000 rpm which becomes around 60 when water temp is 180 deg F and oil temp at 170 deg F. (This is with ~5w/30 oil). The REmedy thermostat and water pump hasn't let me reach the reference 100 C yet, but this is Michigan

Looking forward to the REmedy oil pressure solution.
Old 11-24-2009 | 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
PhillipM, you were right. Now I believe.

So I gather 9K you have NO original OC working?...YES.

So you have returned your car to an FC RX-7 type system, same Oil Pump and By Pass Valves BTW.

Does anyone have an Auto Trans RX-8 with only ONE ( left) original Oil Cooler?, I wonder what the Oil Pressure is with these??
Or any Australian S1's with only one Oil Cooler??

Perhaps, less 'Oil Lines' does make a difference ??
Old 11-24-2009 | 01:01 PM
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I don't know but my OP gauge is very consistent.


ASH8, yes I removed the original coolers and lines completely.

Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 11-24-2009 at 01:05 PM.
Old 11-25-2009 | 03:38 AM
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Originally Posted by ASH8
So I gather 9K you have NO original OC working?...YES.

So you have returned your car to an FC RX-7 type system, same Oil Pump and By Pass Valves BTW.

Does anyone have an Auto Trans RX-8 with only ONE ( left) original Oil Cooler?, I wonder what the Oil Pressure is with these??
Or any Australian S1's with only one Oil Cooler??

Perhaps, less 'Oil Lines' does make a difference ??
I think 9K changed "only" the lines, the coolers, and the bypass of the coolers, not the pump and the regulator.

Yes, that would be useful information if there is difference between the single (AT) and double coolers Renesis max oil pressure.

Otherwise the coolers's bypasses has not affect on the max oil pressure. Only the narrowest diameter pipe-hose-drilling would has affect on it. Maybe there is a too narrow drilling somewhere in the long factory system.

Last edited by ayrton012; 11-25-2009 at 05:16 AM. Reason: drill=drilling
Old 11-25-2009 | 05:45 AM
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I don't think that this regulating matter happens in the factory coolers, rather in the long pipes system between the pump-coolers-engine.
I say this because the opening and closing of the integrated cooler's bypasses means only about 1,5-2 PSI change in the oil pressure (idle), according to my gauge. So if the oil avoids the factory coolers (closed OC bypasses) the pressure does not change.

???
Old 11-25-2009 | 08:30 AM
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one major change is he has converted from a plate type of oil cooler to a pipe type. plate type are notorious for having high restriction to flow.
OD
Old 11-25-2009 | 10:22 AM
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My oil coolers have been too effective recently. It seems that they only get very warm when standing still (touching them, I have no idea what the actual temps are). After driving around for several miles (not driving hard) with outside temps being around 50F, they are very cool to the touch, which makes me even more weary of driving it hard. I wonder if this mainly due to the missing inner wheel well behind both coolers?!

I would like to have a bypass-able oil cooler which runs through the radiator to help warm up the oil quicker.
Old 11-25-2009 | 10:33 AM
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Yes with out the wheel wells they will get constant air flow through them and they may cool too much. The thermostat I have will close if the oil temperature drops too low.
Old 11-25-2009 | 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
Yes with out the wheel wells they will get constant air flow through them and they may cool too much. The thermostat I have will close if the oil temperature drops too low.

How does the thermostat circuit work? I assume it just by-passes the cooler, correct?
Old 11-25-2009 | 11:12 AM
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The oil thermostat is designed to regulate oil flow through cooling devices until optimal (minimum) temperatures are reached. Cold oil enters the thermostat and is bypassed through the center of the unit returning to engine. During warm-up the thermostat never closes off oil flow to the cooler, rather, it offers a less restrictive path for the oil to flow allowing the cooler to acclimate to system temperature. As oil warms to 180 degrees the operating "waxstat" closes the bypass permitting full flow to cooler.
Old 11-25-2009 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by madcows
My oil coolers have been too effective recently. It seems that they only get very warm when standing still (touching them, I have no idea what the actual temps are). After driving around for several miles (not driving hard) with outside temps being around 50F, they are very cool to the touch, which makes me even more weary of driving it hard. I wonder if this mainly due to the missing inner wheel well behind both coolers?!

I would like to have a bypass-able oil cooler which runs through the radiator to help warm up the oil quicker.
buy a factory radiator for an AT and use the small circuit for the ATF to do just that.

I had to drive the car very hard to get them temps above 140-150 in the winter here.
Old 11-25-2009 | 12:34 PM
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Wish I had that problem!
Old 11-25-2009 | 02:37 PM
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I have been searching but does anyone know what the optimal oil temps are? I have read between 180-200F but what in the minimum temp the oil should be?
Old 11-25-2009 | 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
I don't know but my OP gauge is very consistent.


ASH8, yes I removed the original coolers and lines completely.
Good...OK so now you do have an FC Oil System (Circuit, Pump, Valves) albeit with a better front Middle oil cooler.

In your case I really do not believe you need the REAR by pass mod done now.

I repeat what I said Months ago, the Extra Oil Cooler and LONG Oil lines ARE Robbing the RENESIS 1 engines OIL Pressure..

Thank-you 9K, you have proved my theory correct.
Old 11-25-2009 | 02:57 PM
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Yes, my lines are much shorter and there is only one 90 degree bend in the setup. I will be taking a long raid trip tomorrow so I will have some good data tomorrow evening.
Old 11-25-2009 | 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by madcows
It I wonder if this mainly due to the missing inner wheel well behind both coolers?!
Yes, definitely, like 9K said, no rear splash shields are letting TOO much cold/cool air through cooling your oil too well.

Now you are in Winter (soon) I would be returning to OEM...ASAP

Being in Summer here (almost) and with 113F degrees here last week, my rear mesh shield Mod helped to keep my Coolers and Oil cooler..
Old 11-25-2009 | 03:47 PM
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i think he needs the rear bypass done to increase the amount of oil going through the filter. Without it he is sending more oil than normal back to the engine? Not filtered.
Correct me if I am wrong?
OD


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