dannobre

iTrader: (3)

The only way you can do it with the Haltech RE is to run it off the factory PCM. You must still have it in the car if you are using the factory dash...so just leave it alone If you have an AP...you could bump up the MOP rate to get more use out of it......but that kinda defeats the purpose for the RE in the first place

VICEdOUT

iTrader: (1)

Well the Dash is still in place, lights up but most gauges wont work right now. The Fuel Gauge and blinkers work and the stock ECU is disconnected.. The dash might even work without the stock ecu ? So many wires have gotten cut in the engine bay especially, wiring the stock ecu back might be a major PITA.. Gravity Fed reservoirs anyone ? I would like to try that.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Yeah that with the Sohn and the additional manual set **** they sell for the Renesis, but the issue there is that it pumps the same amount regardless of rpm or load

EricMeyer

^ 100% my experience also. Our experience w and w/out has been interesting to say the least.

W/out the pump function or supply at all the side seal wear on the iron face is crazy nuts. This seal to iron face relationship is the largest weak spot of the motor by far if you ask me. I've recently met and spoken with the guy who has overhauled hundreds of StarMazda (formerly called Pro Formula Mazda) and he would see these failures all the time. You need lubrication.

The ECU has a map to the OMP which I know NOTHING about and will not comment on. I can offer exactly what homeboy TeamRX8 offers above and that is you'll be fouling plugs like crazy from too much lubrication at low rpm. Ask me how I know this?

Last but not least Rotary Aviation makes a nice gravity fed cutoff system that allows the pump to run but not use the stock oiling system for supply. We have successfully used a 1 qt reservoir using a quality 2 stroke motorcycle or snowmobile oil and reduced the side seal wear issue significantly. You can add a little manual adjuster to increase or decrease the amount but like Team offers----it is not as variable as it needs to be.

Other words of advice:

If your stock wiring harness has been cut/damaged/lightened/butchered/etc., you are in for some biiiiiig problems my friend. These cars really suck to operate some of the components via non-stock ECU. Here is a brief list of things that you'll need to address:

-Electronic Steering Rack
-Fly by wire throttle body
-High and Low pressure fuel pump signal

I can't think of any other items that are affected (effected?) removing the stock ECU.

A quick story. A few years ago when we built our first race car I did the normal procedure of carefully lightening the wiring harness. I think it took me a week and I followed a Mazda Wiring Harness factory manual to be sure not to screw things up. I earned a 30 lb weight reduction but the damn thing would never run right. So I did it again but even more carefully on the next car----same issue. We have since gone to very high end wiring harnesses (About $4K just for the data and interior harnesses). The engine harness was about the same. This is Grand-Am Rolex grade quality and you get what you pay for. Racing exposes cars to things that street and street/track don't normall see. Add slicks and drive the snot out of her and the suspension starts revealing failure modes too.

Be very very careful and understand what you r getting into. Lots of time and effort and frustration can occur. These cars really suck to be converted into race cars. When SpeedSource first built them back in Sept of 2004 for Grand-Am Koni Challenge they used the STOCK wiring harness and everything and ran the car with a Motec ECU (any where from 3K to 8K per car). All of these old SpeedSource cars have since been sold, crashed, resold, etc. and there is very, very little data out there or people with good memories on this subject.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

I presume from this statement that when you tried this without the OMP you premixed heavily to compensate and found that was not sufficient ? At what ratios did you premix ?

PhillipM

You'd need to be in about the 32:1 range with premix without for race use, you can get away with perhaps double that with a top-quality race premix imo.
It'd be interesting to see what you did use though Eric?

VICEdOUT

iTrader: (1)

Interesting subject we got going on herre, keep it moving! Well guys, I'm not building a race car nor am I looking to race my car, merely drive it fast in occasion to daily driving. As I stated before and some of you know, I don't have an RX8 but a Hybrid vehicle leaning towards the name STARX8. Big troubles you mentioned Eric do not apply to my case herre, I have no power Steering, I have converted to a Throttle Cable TB and I've wired the 255 lph aftermarket fuel pump to constant 12v via switch so no low load and high load relays are being used so I can get away with a half chopped n screwed up wiring harness. My main issue right now is to try and FIND a different/new way to lubricate the upper seals via squirters... Even if we have to go against the grain and so far I can say I/we have successfully modified/alternated a few things in this setup.. My 2 cents.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

He wasn't aware of your other thread and you didn't define it in the first post of this one, but regardless. RX-8 owners have engine durability issues with working MOPs. You won't buy a replacement with only 2 cents.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

I though you were talking about a stock RX-8 project...makes a bit more sense now

You still need something that can drive the pump...you likely can get it to work on one step level with 2 outputs if you have them...but not properly

would be better than nothing for sure...

VICEdOUT

iTrader: (1)

I put the link to my build on my sig, yes I am talking about my project and my setup specifically but an alternative to this would work on all RX8 applications.

The Mad Doc has an idea...
...this mounted on the firewall..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/220864585235...84.m1423.l2649
...with this beneath it..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/260817043905...84.m1423.l2649
...controlled via DPO at say past 2500 rpm on a constant (somehow regulated) flow..
...dripping down into all 4 squirter lines...
...It can work!

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

You need a pump dude not a solenoid

VICEdOUT

iTrader: (1)

...The apple from the tree effect....

VICEdOUT

iTrader: (1)

How about a DPO line from the Haltech giving 12v power to the OMP, at a fixed rate should work as somehow of a lube as well, keeping the "Pump" action to push thru the lil tight squirter lines lol..

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Not everyone has signature viewing (BS mode) enabled

Jose Zuma

Hi guys,

I'm reviving this topic as I'm between removing my OMP or remove its electronics and fixed the position of it so, that it still lubricates a bit (don't how what would be the ideal flow)

I'm running a top mounted turbo, and I got the wiring toasted, I'm able to fix it and even to improve the isolation, yet, I'm afraid it could get damaged again and its location is not easy to reach.

What's your opinion guys?

Note: is a weekend car.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Depends on if you are still running stock ECU or not . You need the OMP plugged in if you are . I have stock ecu, run mine off to one side and premix at 120:1 .

Jose Zuma

what do you think about keep it mechanically connected with a fixed flow?

It should lubricate a bit more than just premixing, yet without the weak wires.... Of course the fact that the omp still mounted is another point of failure.


These guys modified the omp, removed all its electronics and fixed the flow rate to the max (i would prefer to run min or middle as at max I guess it might help to build more carbon if car is not always at high rpm?)


BTW those guys are doing an amazing job, if you do not speak Spanish, in their videos they explained how upgrade the actuators of vdi and ssv to steppers (servo) allowing them to save a lot of space .
Also cut half of the front engine cover to run an external water pump, etc.

Regarding my ecu I'm running Adaptronic piggyback, so, i still need the omp to be connected But I'm considering to upgrade to Adaptronic modular

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Convert to modular and you can throw it away ......meanwhile , it must be connected electrically. I'd just run it normally and improve the heat shielding ..............

Jose Zuma

Thanks Brettus

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Just my luck to have studied Japanese rather than Spanish

However, regarding the valve actuation mod, Mazda used vacuum for a reason; reliability. If anything, I’d just add an additional/larger vacuum tank and tie it in rather than go to electrical servo switches and an additional controller like that.

It just adds complication and additional failure points, which isn’t in the best interest of a track car and likely costs more too. The vacuum system works as long as there’s vacuum no different than an electrical system works as long as there’s electricity. In that sense, they’re no different. The vacuum system is simpler and less prone to failure is how I see it.

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