I'm rebuilding my engine. I was wondering about the oil metering pump. do you have to prime it or does it prime its self when the engine starts for the first time? but that also bring another question if it does self prime is that the reason why you have to put oil in the rotor housing when your assembling the engine. this is my first build and I'm just trying to figure out why im only getting 50 Psi in the front housing and 45 Psi rear rotor housing from my compression test. I don't think I used oil in the assembly just petroleum jelly.

 

from the omp to the injector nozzles is self priming provided the check valves are good and the is oil to the omp. the omp is like a stepper motor. i wondered the same thing when i drained the oil and put the sohn on. just keep a eye on the clear lines.

 

Dude?
What exactly do u mean keep an eye on the clear lines?

How can I check to make sure I have put them back on in the right order?
I looked in the shop manually but didn't really see anything

 

to make sure the omp is pushing oil to the nozzles. Wcs you have the AP so you can up the omp. As for the lines you should have sent me a text i could have looked at the spare motor and figured it out for you quick. I think im going to figure out how to get rid of the plactic lines and go to stainless.

 

It is self priming pump and if you run 4 new lines they will be transparent and its easy to see the oil flow through them. RotaryAviation.com makes a trick block off plate that allows you to run your own lubricant (like 2 stroke oil). This allows you to bypass using the nasty crank case oil and something with better combustion properties. I am very confident this solution is preferred over the stocker and is nothing but more beneficial to the engines. If you've seen as many stock high mileage motors as I have you'll discover big time carbon cake in and around all parts of the rotor.

Something to think about.

 

Except for the fact that the factory PCM will go into limp mode without it ...